How quickly does sunburn show up? I seem to have scorched one CATT but
it's neighbors look fine. Just trying to push the light to far for
"Mother's Favorite" I guess.
Joe T
Burned in Baytown

in cattleya bumpy, raised, rough, discolored patches in the upper surface
epidermal tissue of a leaf show up in about 24 to 48 hours after a "burn",
even longer in some cases. The mesophyll layer and underside of the leaf
may not be destroyed may continue to function. It usually but not always
shows up on tissue that is perpendicular to the angle of the light/heat
source. You may notice that sharp lines delineating burned and non burned
tissue that seem to parallel the shadow cast by nearby leaves of other
things.

In contrast it is possible to burn the whole plant of a phal completely
"white" in just a few hours of direct sun at the right time of year here in
Virginia.

It is harder to burn the same tissue if the light level/heat level is
increased slowly over several weeks, months and once the tissue has paled
because chlorophyll reduction. I often see sudden burning in the spring
since the increasing intensity of the sun gets ahead of my shade cloth
application.

There are other symptoms of 'burn' on different orchid's leaf tissue. Under
the right conditions thin leaved oncidiums will burn flat and dead all the
way through as even the mesophyll layer and lower epidermal tissue gets
destroyed by the heat/light.

There are many other ways to interpret your question depending on how I
think about the type of burn, and the light intensity and duration you have
in mind. It can happen slowly or faster depending on all kinds of
variables. Got pictures for abpo?


"jtill" wrote in message
oups.com...
How quickly does sunburn show up? I seem to have scorched one CATT but
it's neighbors look fine. Just trying to push the light to far for
"Mother's Favorite" I guess.
Joe T
Burned in Baytown

Al wrote:
in cattleya bumpy, raised, rough, discolored patches in the upper surface
epidermal tissue of a leaf show up in about 24 to 48 hours after a "burn",
even longer in some cases. The mesophyll layer and underside of the leaf
may not be destroyed may continue to function. It usually but not always
shows up on tissue that is perpendicular to the angle of the light/heat
source. You may notice that sharp lines delineating burned and non burned
tissue that seem to parallel the shadow cast by nearby leaves of other
things.

In contrast it is possible to burn the whole plant of a phal completely
"white" in just a few hours of direct sun at the right time of year here in
Virginia.

It is harder to burn the same tissue if the light level/heat level is
increased slowly over several weeks, months and once the tissue has paled
because chlorophyll reduction. I often see sudden burning in the spring
since the increasing intensity of the sun gets ahead of my shade cloth
application.

There are other symptoms of 'burn' on different orchid's leaf tissue. Under
the right conditions thin leaved oncidiums will burn flat and dead all the
way through as even the mesophyll layer and lower epidermal tissue gets
destroyed by the heat/light.

There are many other ways to interpret your question depending on how I
think about the type of burn, and the light intensity and duration you have
in mind. It can happen slowly or faster depending on all kinds of
variables. Got pictures for abpo?


"jtill" wrote in message
oups.com...
How quickly does sunburn show up? I seem to have scorched one CATT but
it's neighbors look fine. Just trying to push the light to far for
"Mother's Favorite" I guess.
Joe T
Burned in Baytown


Not at the moment, as soon as my Batt. charges I will post several.
Have to use my blog as abpo refuses to come to Houston.
Joe T

Al wrote:
in cattleya bumpy, raised, rough, discolored patches in the upper surface
epidermal tissue of a leaf show up in about 24 to 48 hours after a "burn",
even longer in some cases. The mesophyll layer and underside of the leaf
may not be destroyed may continue to function. It usually but not always
shows up on tissue that is perpendicular to the angle of the light/heat
source. You may notice that sharp lines delineating burned and non burned
tissue that seem to parallel the shadow cast by nearby leaves of other
things.

In contrast it is possible to burn the whole plant of a phal completely
"white" in just a few hours of direct sun at the right time of year here in
Virginia.

It is harder to burn the same tissue if the light level/heat level is
increased slowly over several weeks, months and once the tissue has paled
because chlorophyll reduction. I often see sudden burning in the spring
since the increasing intensity of the sun gets ahead of my shade cloth
application.

There are other symptoms of 'burn' on different orchid's leaf tissue. Under
the right conditions thin leaved oncidiums will burn flat and dead all the
way through as even the mesophyll layer and lower epidermal tissue gets
destroyed by the heat/light.

There are many other ways to interpret your question depending on how I
think about the type of burn, and the light intensity and duration you have
in mind. It can happen slowly or faster depending on all kinds of
variables. Got pictures for abpo?


"jtill" wrote in message
oups.com...
How quickly does sunburn show up? I seem to have scorched one CATT but
it's neighbors look fine. Just trying to push the light to far for
"Mother's Favorite" I guess.
Joe T
Burned in Baytown

This should show the scorched CATT although I am having startup
problems with this Blog.

http://joerex99z.blogspot.com/2006_0...z_archive.html

Joe T
Baytown

Yes that's sun/heat burn for sure. You can even see the line where shade
from the upper leaf protected some of the tissue from burning. You can see
a less severe burn on adjacent leaves which are on the same plane in
relationship to the light source.

Temperature on a hot day can contribute to the burn; where on a cooler day
the same
amount of light would not burn them. Considering the temps outdoors in
Houston, I would guess a shading close to 60 to 75 % from normal noon day
light would be advisable.

for me "scorched" is the buzzword that brought to my mind the exact type of
damage your cattleya leaf shows.

"jtill" wrote in message
oups.com...


This should show the scorched CATT although I am having startup
problems with this Blog.

http://joerex99z.blogspot.com/2006_0...z_archive.html

Joe T
Baytown

Yes that's sun/heat burn for sure. You can even see the line where shade
from the upper leaf protected some of the tissue from burning. You can see
a less severe burn on adjacent leaves which are on the same plane in
relationship to the light source.

Temperature on a hot day can contribute to the burn; where on a cooler day
the same
amount of light would not burn them. Considering the temps outdoors in
Houston, I would guess a shading close to 60 to 75 % from normal noon day
light would be advisable.

for me "scorched" is the buzzword that brought to my mind the exact type of
damage your cattleya leaf shows.

"jtill" wrote in message
oups.com...

Al wrote:
in cattleya bumpy, raised, rough, discolored patches in the upper surface
epidermal tissue of a leaf show up in about 24 to 48 hours after a
"burn",
even longer in some cases. The mesophyll layer and underside of the leaf
may not be destroyed may continue to function. It usually but not always
shows up on tissue that is perpendicular to the angle of the light/heat
source. You may notice that sharp lines delineating burned and non
burned
tissue that seem to parallel the shadow cast by nearby leaves of other
things.

In contrast it is possible to burn the whole plant of a phal completely
"white" in just a few hours of direct sun at the right time of year here
in
Virginia.

It is harder to burn the same tissue if the light level/heat level is
increased slowly over several weeks, months and once the tissue has paled
because chlorophyll reduction. I often see sudden burning in the spring
since the increasing intensity of the sun gets ahead of my shade cloth
application.

There are other symptoms of 'burn' on different orchid's leaf tissue.
Under
the right conditions thin leaved oncidiums will burn flat and dead all
the
way through as even the mesophyll layer and lower epidermal tissue gets
destroyed by the heat/light.

There are many other ways to interpret your question depending on how I
think about the type of burn, and the light intensity and duration you
have
in mind. It can happen slowly or faster depending on all kinds of
variables. Got pictures for abpo?


"jtill" wrote in message
oups.com...
How quickly does sunburn show up? I seem to have scorched one CATT but
it's neighbors look fine. Just trying to push the light to far for
"Mother's Favorite" I guess.
Joe T
Burned in Baytown

This should show the scorched CATT although I am having startup
problems with this Blog.

http://joerex99z.blogspot.com/2006_0...z_archive.html

Joe T
Baytown

Your NoID of 10 years in the attractive white glazed pot appears to be
either a Maxillaria or a Coelogyne.

A closer photo of the pseudobulbs, showing multiple angles, might help with
a better ID.

-Eric in SF
www.orchidphotos.org

Thanks Eric, that should help me in tailoring care to improve plant
growth. I have been calling it an Oncidium for years. It is a wonder it
is still alive, last year I started reading books about orchids and
reading orchid forums, so, hopefully, I am doing better on that score.
Have you noticed that there are few photos of orchid plants?
I will post more photos. It has very small, spider web like roots.
Supposedly from Southern Brazil near Novo Hamburgo, elevation 1000
meters.
Joe T
Baytown Tx

Eric Hunt wrote:
Your NoID of 10 years in the attractive white glazed pot appears to be
either a Maxillaria or a Coelogyne.

A closer photo of the pseudobulbs, showing multiple angles, might help with
a better ID.

-Eric in SF
www.orchidphotos.org

Joe,

Then it's not a Coelogyne. =)

My very first thought was a Brazilian maxillaria, along the lines of
Maxillaria picta.

1000 meters is warm to intermediate.

Your plant *looks* reasonably healthy, with normal-sized pseudobulbs, not
much crenation (wrinkling) of the pseudobulbs and a good light green color
to the leaves. If it's been struggling but is now happy, it might take a
season or two before you see blooms, while it rebuilds strength.

Let us know when you've posted additional photos to your blog!

-Eric in SF
www.orchidphotos.org

"jtill" wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks Eric, that should help me in tailoring care to improve plant
growth. I have been calling it an Oncidium for years. It is a wonder it

Ok Eric, I have posted new photos. Let me know how they look, focus is
a problem on thin, small things. Have to work on that later.

http://joerex99z.blogspot.com/

Joe T
Blurry Baytown, TX

Joe,

Thanks for the extra photos!

Absolutely, positively a Brazilian Maxillaria.

Won't know exactly what it is until it blooms, but it wouldn't surprise me
if it did turn out to be M. picta.

(and the Hill Country Fare soda jogged the memory - I lived in Austin for 4
years back in the 90s!)

-Eric in SF
www.orchidphotos.org

"jtill" wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok Eric, I have posted new photos. Let me know how they look, focus is
a problem on thin, small things. Have to work on that later.

http://joerex99z.blogspot.com/

Joe T
Blurry Baytown, TX

Thanks Eric! Once you gave me the name I found it on the web with site
map no less. Also in Orchidwiz and Andy's Orchids. Since there are 629
Max. I have no idea how you recognized it! Amazing!
I almost ordered one from Andy's but it would not be the same as this
orphan.
Joe T
Your new fan in Baytown

Joe,

This one's an easy one to recognize - the pseudobulbs are very distinctive.

Glad you found out what it was and please post photos when it blooms! =)

-Eric in SF
www.orchidphotos.org

I didn't see anyone mention Cymbidiums. Sunburn shows as white
starburst spots amongst the green green leaves. Although sunburn harms
the cymbidium leaves and dried-up bulbs will not produce the following
year, a little sunburn does not wipe-out the plant. Constant sunburn,
however, will sooner or later destroy the plant.

Sunburn in other species seems to redden the color of the plant.
Pseudoepidendrum will turn red and if too red will eventually die.
Cattleyas that have been effected will turn red and may eventually die
if not placed into shade and given ample water.

Dispute all you wish; however, these are my personal observations.

. . . Pam
Everything Orchid Management System
http://home.earthlink.net/~profpam/page3.html

-----------------------------------------------------
jtill wrote:
Thanks Eric! Once you gave me the name I found it on the web with site
map no less. Also in Orchidwiz and Andy's Orchids. Since there are 629
Max. I have no idea how you recognized it! Amazing!
I almost ordered one from Andy's but it would not be the same as this
orphan.
Joe T
Your new fan in Baytown

I only have Cattleyas at risk in my yard and have burned three of
them. Not badly but a bit. I thought I was moving them slowly to more
light! Don't worry about dispute, few here find that useful. Your WEB
site, very nice.
Joe T
Tops and Trim in Baytown

year, a little sunburn does not wipe-out the plant. Constant sunburn,
however, will sooner or later destroy the plant.


Cattleyas that have been effected will turn red and may eventually die
if not placed into shade and given ample water.

Dispute all you wish; however, these are my personal observations.