I have this Phal that is loosing its leaves at an alarming rate. The leaves
turn yellow practically overnight, and this has happened to three of its
leaves over the course of about a month. It is growing one new leaf right
now as well, so at least one of those leaves will be replaced, and it's
still got a total of 4 other healthy leaves in addition to the new one.

This is the history of this Phal: I bought it on April 24th of this year.
Two weeks later the plant was experiencing some bud-blast, and I discovered
one mealybug on it. I treated the leaves with a mixture of rubbing alcohol +
dish soap + water. The plant was then repotted. During the repotting, I saw
one more critter, that looked like a little worm or caterpiller of some sort
in the root system. I killed that. The plant was treated with horticultural
oil. I have not seen any pests since then. The Phal is still in bloom, but
loosing some flowers, and it's loosing leaves. The leaves it is loosing are
toward the bottom, so that seems right, but 3 leaves seems like a lot to
loose.

Should I cut off the spike? Should I take another look at the root system --
to make sure that there are no bugs in the roots? It was repotted about a
month ago, but it's really not doing well now. Please advise.

Thanks,
Joanna

Joanna,

Assuming it's a plant worth keeping, I'd sacrifice the spike, stop watering it, and keep it in a
very shady, warm, humid environment until it recovers.

The leaf-loss scenario sounds a lot like it is having trouble keeping up the balance of energy input
versus output, but can also be related to a weak root system, so my direction would be to go after
correcting both.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

.. . . . . . . . . . .
"J Fortuna" wrote in message
...
I have this Phal that is loosing its leaves at an alarming rate. The leaves
turn yellow practically overnight, and this has happened to three of its
leaves over the course of about a month. It is growing one new leaf right
now as well, so at least one of those leaves will be replaced, and it's
still got a total of 4 other healthy leaves in addition to the new one.

This is the history of this Phal: I bought it on April 24th of this year.
Two weeks later the plant was experiencing some bud-blast, and I discovered
one mealybug on it. I treated the leaves with a mixture of rubbing alcohol +
dish soap + water. The plant was then repotted. During the repotting, I saw
one more critter, that looked like a little worm or caterpiller of some sort
in the root system. I killed that. The plant was treated with horticultural
oil. I have not seen any pests since then. The Phal is still in bloom, but
loosing some flowers, and it's loosing leaves. The leaves it is loosing are
toward the bottom, so that seems right, but 3 leaves seems like a lot to
loose.

Should I cut off the spike? Should I take another look at the root system --
to make sure that there are no bugs in the roots? It was repotted about a
month ago, but it's really not doing well now. Please advise.

Thanks,
Joanna

Ray,

Thank you for your advice. I have cut the spike and put it in a vase. I
happen to think that the plant is worth saving, or at least trying to.

When you say shady, how shady do you mean? My orchids already grow in low
light conditions, should I move this plant to a place away from any grow
lamp, but next to a northern window? Or should I put it in the bathroom that
has no windows (although I guess that would be very dark and not just very
shady)?

Humidity at this point is the least of my problems in the DC area. It's been
humid, and rainy and wet.

A month ago when this plant was repotted it had a good root system, but I
don't know how much difference a month could make in that.

How long should I keep this plant in a "very shady, warm, humid
environment"? How long should I not water it? You said "until it recovers".
How will I know that it has recovered sufficiently?

Thanks,
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
Joanna,

Assuming it's a plant worth keeping, I'd sacrifice the spike, stop
watering it, and keep it in a
very shady, warm, humid environment until it recovers.

The leaf-loss scenario sounds a lot like it is having trouble keeping up
the balance of energy input
versus output, but can also be related to a weak root system, so my
direction would be to go after
correcting both.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

. . . . . . . . . . .
"J Fortuna" wrote in message
...
I have this Phal that is loosing its leaves at an alarming rate. The
leaves
turn yellow practically overnight, and this has happened to three of its
leaves over the course of about a month. It is growing one new leaf
right
now as well, so at least one of those leaves will be replaced, and it's
still got a total of 4 other healthy leaves in addition to the new one.

This is the history of this Phal: I bought it on April 24th of this
year.
Two weeks later the plant was experiencing some bud-blast, and I
discovered
one mealybug on it. I treated the leaves with a mixture of rubbing
alcohol +
dish soap + water. The plant was then repotted. During the repotting, I
saw
one more critter, that looked like a little worm or caterpiller of some
sort
in the root system. I killed that. The plant was treated with
horticultural
oil. I have not seen any pests since then. The Phal is still in bloom,
but
loosing some flowers, and it's loosing leaves. The leaves it is loosing
are
toward the bottom, so that seems right, but 3 leaves seems like a lot to
loose.

Should I cut off the spike? Should I take another look at the root
system --
to make sure that there are no bugs in the roots? It was repotted about
a
month ago, but it's really not doing well now. Please advise.

Thanks,
Joanna

Hi, Joanna: I would vote for away from the grow lamp, but not in the
bathroom with no light at all. I also would not stop watering altogether,
just cut back -- let the plant get a little drier than you usually do before
watering [guesstimate, an extra 2-3 days between waterings]. Keeping the
plant a little on the dry side will encourage it to make new roots/growing
tips, but you don't want to totally dehydrate it in the process. Cutting
the spike was a good move, from the point of view of the long-term survival
of the plant -- flowers take energy to maintain.

I suspect that the plant is just going through a bit of "transplant shock"
[first being moved from whatever environment is was growing in before you
bought it, and then being repotted]. Generally, when we have to repot
during the major summer heat [which is May -September most years, for us],
we put the plants back out into one zone shadier than the one they normally
grow in, for anywhere from 2-4 weeks, to give them a little break while they
re-establish.

The plant should show you when it is ready to go back to a "normal
routine" -- leaf loss stops, good new root and leaf growth, generally
good-looking plant.

Good growing,
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com

"J Fortuna" wrote in message
...
Ray,

Thank you for your advice. I have cut the spike and put it in a vase. I
happen to think that the plant is worth saving, or at least trying to.

When you say shady, how shady do you mean? My orchids already grow in low
light conditions, should I move this plant to a place away from any grow
lamp, but next to a northern window? Or should I put it in the bathroom
that
has no windows (although I guess that would be very dark and not just very
shady)?

Humidity at this point is the least of my problems in the DC area. It's
been
humid, and rainy and wet.

A month ago when this plant was repotted it had a good root system, but I
don't know how much difference a month could make in that.

How long should I keep this plant in a "very shady, warm, humid
environment"? How long should I not water it? You said "until it
recovers".
How will I know that it has recovered sufficiently?

Thanks,
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
Joanna,

Assuming it's a plant worth keeping, I'd sacrifice the spike, stop
watering it, and keep it in a
very shady, warm, humid environment until it recovers.

The leaf-loss scenario sounds a lot like it is having trouble keeping up
the balance of energy input
versus output, but can also be related to a weak root system, so my
direction would be to go after
correcting both.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

Thanks Kenni, I shall do that.
Joanna

"Kenni Judd" wrote in message
...
Hi, Joanna: I would vote for away from the grow lamp, but not in the
bathroom with no light at all. I also would not stop watering altogether,
just cut back -- let the plant get a little drier than you usually do
before
watering [guesstimate, an extra 2-3 days between waterings]. Keeping the
plant a little on the dry side will encourage it to make new roots/growing
tips, but you don't want to totally dehydrate it in the process. Cutting
the spike was a good move, from the point of view of the long-term
survival
of the plant -- flowers take energy to maintain.

I suspect that the plant is just going through a bit of "transplant shock"
[first being moved from whatever environment is was growing in before you
bought it, and then being repotted]. Generally, when we have to repot
during the major summer heat [which is May -September most years, for us],
we put the plants back out into one zone shadier than the one they
normally
grow in, for anywhere from 2-4 weeks, to give them a little break while
they
re-establish.

The plant should show you when it is ready to go back to a "normal
routine" -- leaf loss stops, good new root and leaf growth, generally
good-looking plant.

Good growing,
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com

"J Fortuna" wrote in message
...
Ray,

Thank you for your advice. I have cut the spike and put it in a vase. I
happen to think that the plant is worth saving, or at least trying to.

When you say shady, how shady do you mean? My orchids already grow in
low
light conditions, should I move this plant to a place away from any grow
lamp, but next to a northern window? Or should I put it in the bathroom
that
has no windows (although I guess that would be very dark and not just
very
shady)?

Humidity at this point is the least of my problems in the DC area. It's
been
humid, and rainy and wet.

A month ago when this plant was repotted it had a good root system, but
I
don't know how much difference a month could make in that.

How long should I keep this plant in a "very shady, warm, humid
environment"? How long should I not water it? You said "until it
recovers".
How will I know that it has recovered sufficiently?

Thanks,
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
Joanna,

Assuming it's a plant worth keeping, I'd sacrifice the spike, stop
watering it, and keep it in a
very shady, warm, humid environment until it recovers.

The leaf-loss scenario sounds a lot like it is having trouble keeping
up
the balance of energy input
versus output, but can also be related to a weak root system, so my
direction would be to go after
correcting both.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

I vote with Kenni. I was interpreting high humidity as being even greater than that indigenous to
DC, as that prevents plant desiccation while it gets new roots. Basically, you try to shift the
gradient to prevent moisture loss by the plant.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!

.. . . . . . . . . . .
"Kenni Judd" wrote in message ...
Hi, Joanna: I would vote for away from the grow lamp, but not in the
bathroom with no light at all. I also would not stop watering altogether,
just cut back -- let the plant get a little drier than you usually do before
watering [guesstimate, an extra 2-3 days between waterings]. Keeping the
plant a little on the dry side will encourage it to make new roots/growing
tips, but you don't want to totally dehydrate it in the process. Cutting
the spike was a good move, from the point of view of the long-term survival
of the plant -- flowers take energy to maintain.

I suspect that the plant is just going through a bit of "transplant shock"
[first being moved from whatever environment is was growing in before you
bought it, and then being repotted]. Generally, when we have to repot
during the major summer heat [which is May -September most years, for us],
we put the plants back out into one zone shadier than the one they normally
grow in, for anywhere from 2-4 weeks, to give them a little break while they
re-establish.

The plant should show you when it is ready to go back to a "normal
routine" -- leaf loss stops, good new root and leaf growth, generally
good-looking plant.

Good growing,
--
Kenni Judd
Juno Beach Orchids
http://www.jborchids.com

"J Fortuna" wrote in message
...
Ray,

Thank you for your advice. I have cut the spike and put it in a vase. I
happen to think that the plant is worth saving, or at least trying to.

When you say shady, how shady do you mean? My orchids already grow in low
light conditions, should I move this plant to a place away from any grow
lamp, but next to a northern window? Or should I put it in the bathroom
that
has no windows (although I guess that would be very dark and not just very
shady)?

Humidity at this point is the least of my problems in the DC area. It's
been
humid, and rainy and wet.

A month ago when this plant was repotted it had a good root system, but I
don't know how much difference a month could make in that.

How long should I keep this plant in a "very shady, warm, humid
environment"? How long should I not water it? You said "until it
recovers".
How will I know that it has recovered sufficiently?

Thanks,
Joanna

"Ray" wrote in message
...
Joanna,

Assuming it's a plant worth keeping, I'd sacrifice the spike, stop
watering it, and keep it in a
very shady, warm, humid environment until it recovers.

The leaf-loss scenario sounds a lot like it is having trouble keeping up
the balance of energy input
versus output, but can also be related to a weak root system, so my
direction would be to go after
correcting both.

--

Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies, Books, Artwork, and Lots of Free Info!