Hello Mike!

For the alcohol spray, I use pure isopropylic alcohol and dish detergent.
For each ounce of alcohol, I put about 10 drops of dish detergent.
You should spray the entire plant, roots, leaves and medium.
You can repeat the treatment 5 or 7 days later.

Claude

"Mike" wrote in message
...
| Joanna,
|
| Thank you for your reply. It was most helpful.
|
| I bought the orchid on December 24, 2003. It continued to flower
| throughout December, January, and February. I completely removed the
| spike in March (thought it was still green and healthy when I cut it,
| but it had finished flowering).
|
| During March, April, spring, summer, and fall it grew 3 new leaves. It
| has 8 or 9 large, beautiful leaves. I repotted the orchid in orchid
| mix in July.
|
| The orchid came in a 6" clay pot. However, the orchid was actually
| inside a much smaller, clear plastic pot embedded inside the clay pot
| with bark.
|
| I have a question about roots. I often read that orchid roots should
| be green. Well, a few of my roots were actually green, but most were a
| light brown color. When I took the orchid out of its plastic, clear
| pot, it was pretty much full of roots and the roots were coming out of
| the drainage holes in the bottom, too. I clipped away the dead, mushy
| roots. When I removed the plant from the plastic pot, I noticed that
| some of the roots seemed "broken". By that, I mean that there would be
| breaks in the roots but the two segments would be held together by the
| inner wire-like membrane. I left these roots intact and did not clip
| them away. The orchid was repotted in the 6" clay pot with the roots
| taking up most of the room.
|
| Regarding the bugs... I don't know where they came from. I sometimes
| see them walking around on the bark when I move the bark around. I was
| suggested to use an alcohol spray, but I don't know how to do this. Do
| I mix the alcohol with anything like water, or do I just spray it
| undiluted? How much do I spray on the bark? I don't want to kill the
| plant. Is there any other general insecticide that I could treat the
| plant with to get rid of any bugs that are living in it?
|
| The plant is getting all the sunlight that I can provide it. I don't
| know what else to do. It is my one and only orchid and is beginning to
| f rustrateme.
|
| Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.
|
| Mike
|
|
| On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 23:48:47 GMT, "J Fortuna"
| wrote:
|
| Mike,
| not between two leaves. So, if I see something emerging from between
| two leaves I should celebrate? :-)
|
| No, roots could emerge from pretty much the same place as spikes. Also, a
| spike can grow down and roots could grow up, so the direction does not
mean
| much. The main ways to differentiate a root from a spike in a Phal a
|
| -- the tips of the roots will be more rounded, whereas the tips of the
spike
| will be more pointed
| -- the roots are more likely to be shiny and more likely to be covered by
a
| white layer, whereas the spike is less likely to have a shiny white
layer,
| but will instead be green, brown, or purplish and non-shiny
| -- spikes have nodes, sort of like knuckles in fingers, which subdivide a
| spike into parts (these nodes are places where the spike might branch or
| grow a bud from or grow a keiki from), whereas roots don't have such
nodes
|
| It takes some experience to tell a root from a spike in a Phal, but with
| time after you have had many of them you will be able to tell fairly
early
| on which one it is. I am usually correct in guessing whether it is a
spike
| or root almost right away, but I have 28 Phals and have been observing
roots
| and spikes for 3.5 years now.
|
| How long have you had this Phal? When is the last time your Phal bloomed?
| Some Phals bloom only in the spring, for example, so this Phal might be a
| spring bloomer. Some of my Phals bloom both in the fall and in the
spring,
| but I think that's more of an exception than a rule, especially at the
| beginning you are less likely to be disappointed if you expect your Phal
to
| bloom only once a year. I have one Phal that has now started a new spike
| after 1.5 years of not spiking, so that can happen, too.
|
| I would be a bit worried about your night time temperatures, they seem a
bit
| too low to me. Also the fact that you have some insects wandering on it,
| depending on what kind of insects they are (whether they are an orchid
| pest), this may cause stress to the plant and cause it not to bloom.
|
| Also how much light are you providing this orchid? Where is it located?
Have
| you tried changing the location to a better one? Sometimes a plant will
not
| rebloom, and then one moves it to a different spot, and that does it.
|
| I once read that the two things that are most likely to cause a plant not
to
| respike are insufficient light or no difference between day and night
| temperature (you have that covered, though maybe your difference is too
| much?). The other thing that I read is that sometimes orchids will not
bloom
| if they are too happy, so if they are being given too much fertilizer,
too
| much light, and being watered too regularly, they may be too lazy to
| rebloom -- orchids often thrive on a certain level of benign neglect, and
| some speculate that some degree of deprivation may be beneficial and
induce
| flowering (though don't overdo this).
|
| That said, I have 2 Phals that have not reflowered for me either, and I
| don't have a clue why they have not, while the others have been
reflowering
| as expected or even more frequently. I think that having only one orchid
| plant increases the chance that you will fret over it more, and have high
| expectations for it, and it may not do what you expect. So get more
orchids!
|
| Hope that some of this is helpful to you.
|
| Best,
| Joanna
|
| "Mike" wrote in message
| .. .
| Claude,
|
| The orchid was repotted in July. I would think that it would be well
| established by now.
|
| The roots are emerging from the outside part of the base of the plant,
| not between two leaves. So, if I see something emerging from between
| two leaves I should celebrate? :-)
|
| Mike
|
| On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:36:14 -0400, "Claude"
| wrote:
|
| Hello again!
|
| Blooming takes lot`s of energy for a plant.
| If you just repotted the plant and cut some roots, the plant is busy
| adapting to the new environment. The plants needs to establish it`s
roots
| before blooming.
| Phals grow aerial roots to capture moisture and nutrients from the
air.
| They
| can grow roots and spike together if the plant is really happy.
|
| A spike looks almost like the tip of the root except it`s flat instead
or
| round. Usually, spike emerge between 2 leaves.
|
| My advice, if I may, would be to leave the plant for now since it`s
| getting
| establish. For the bugs, I would try an alcohol spray and keep the
plant
| away from the others.
|
|
| Claude
|
| "Mike" wrote in message
| .. .
| | Claude,
| |
| | Why would the plant be in an active growing period? Shouldn't this
be
| | the time when the plant stops growing new leaves and roots and
| | produces a spike?
| |
| | The white bugs (which I've only seem a few) are teeny tiny bugs that
| | only crawl. I saw them on and around the new roots and on the
medium.
| |
| | The orchid came in a small clear plastic pot which was embedded in
| | bark inside a clay pot. I repotted the orchid into the clay pot
which
| | is 6" I think. The plant had a lot of roots. I clipped away the
dead,
| | mushy roots. The remaining roots almost completely filled the pot.
| |
| | Can a phalaenopsis grow roots and spike at the same time?
| |
| | What does a flower spike emerging from the base of the plant look
| | like? The roots emerged from nodes (bumps) on the base of the plant
at
| | the same level where the old spike was cut.
| |
| | Any help would be much appreciated!
| |
| | Mike
| |
| | On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 14:49:17 -0400, "Claude"
| | wrote:
| |
| | Hello!
| |
| | Here are my guess...
| |
| | Your day time temperature seems little bit too low! Most phal like
to
| grow
| | between 21C and 28C, although some like it hotter and some colder.
But
| the
| | temperature drop at night seems too big. A difference of 10C
between
| daytime
| | and nighttime would be better.
| |
| | The fact that the tip of your roots is getting reddish mean that
your
| plant
| | is in active growing period. That part is called apical meristem.
| |
| | About your bugs, can you describe them a bit better! Do they fly?
are
| they
| | on the medium?
| | Did you check the leaves? roots?
| |
| | Claude
| |
| | "Mike" wrote in message
| | .. .
| | | Orchid friends,
| | |
| | | My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The
| plant
| | | is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the
| moment.
| | | I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it
| into
| | | spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
| | | hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about
8C/46F.
| | | But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern
Ontario,
| | | so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.
| | |
| | | The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are
| reddish.
| | | I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.
| | |
| | | I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
| | | insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?
| | |
| | | What am I doing wrong?
| | |
| | | Mike
| | |
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I will try increasing the amount of light the plant is getting.

Can you explain what an MH light is? Can I just put the plant under a
room lamp and have the lamp's light shine down on it all day?

What watt bulb would I use? 40W, 60W? How long should I leave the
plant under this light every day? How far away should the lamp be from
the plant? Or is using a room lamp a bad idea?

Mike

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 00:02:55 GMT, dd
wrote:

Mike,

I'm no expert at phals, but I have failed a lot--A LOT-- with getting
them to live and to flower, so please learn from my mistakes. First,
your fertilizer is dead wrong. Ditch the 10-60-10. The "60" is a big No
No. In nature, these guys only get a squirt of nutrients when a bird
flies overhead and has a bladder probem, or some rain forest stuff is
mildly decomposing... Go for a more balanced fertilzer, and use it at a
diluted strength--1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon.

Second, rapid root growth might be a "trying to survive" signal. Mist
the aerial roots daily. Many of my phals that were growing aerial roots
in response to semi-hydroponic media are now spiking--rampant root
growth and spikes. So, humor the aerial roots, mist them with mildly
fertilized water, and if you have sufficient light, spikes will not be
far behind.

Your night temperatures are too cool. You are courting messophyl cell
collapse, I'd guess. Boost your night temps to 60 degrees F, and have
your day temps be at about 75-80 degrees F.

A wise old orchid dude once told me that if you can't get the sucker to
flower, move it to a different location in your growing area. In your
case, this might mean an area with more light or under light, such as
MH lights.

Regarding bugs: Use the small cannons first: a weekly water spray and
wipes with cotton balls drenched in rubbing alchohol can go a long
way.. If that doesn't work, blast them with chemicals, being careful
not to poison yourself, your family, or your beloved pets.

Good luck.


In article , Mike
wrote:

Orchid friends,

My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The plant
is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the moment.
I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it into
spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about 8C/46F.
But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern Ontario,
so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.

The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are reddish.
I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.

I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?

What am I doing wrong?

Mike

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Hi Mike:

Welcome to the group; there are some pretty smart people in here -
you've come to the right place for advice. A phal. is a perfect start
for you. Read up on them and the rest is just lots of patience, don't
hurry them.
Things to remember, don't treat them like a regular house plant,
you know keeping them moist and in dirt. Orchids like sphagnum moss and
to be almost completely dry when you water them (for phals. anyway).
Don't let the water stand in the drip tray, dump it out. Remember let
it go almost dry. Some people say, "Well I water it once a week and
tend to forget about it sometimes." AWWWK! If a person waters a plant
when it's dry that could be any number of days not once a week. If it's
hot weather your plant might dry out in two days. As for light for a
beginner you can do like I have and get a grow light for plants. The
bulb specifically says that. Mines in a hood and I can find new bulbs
at hardware stores. Now I'm gonna go check on a 'mealie' posting in
here cause I hate mealie bugs!!!!! Had a hoya once and they took over
and killed it in just a matter of days.
Good luck and and remember read up on phals. and don't loose your tag if
it has one..........Burr
Only one orchid? You poor man little do you know - they're
so addictive - I have 6.

Mike,

I bought the orchid on December 24, 2003. It continued to flower
throughout December, January, and February.

Ok, so then it's not late in reflowering yet. Most of my Phals are in spike
for about 2-3 months before flowering, so if your Phal started a spike now,
it could well be in flower by late Decembor or January. Phals don't
generally follow a strict calender, though it has sometimes happened that
one of my orchids would reflower _exactly_ a year after the last time,
that's a rare exception. Flowering time depends on many factors, some of
which I don't even begin to understand yet, but here are a few: if it was an
unusually sunny or an unusually cloudy summer; unusually hot or unseasonal
cold spells; if the environment that you are growing it in is very different
or very similar to where it grew before it came to your home; etc. Also you
don't know whether December was this Phal's usual blooming time, or if it
was induced by something the previous grower did, that caused this Phal to
flower at not it's usual time. Different Phals have different blooming
seasons depending on their heritage and other factors. But growers sometimes
induce orchids to flower out of their season. Or sometimes a Phal will just
bloom at a different time than usual for it. The nice thing about Phals is
that they do have different seasons, and so one can fairly easily acquire a
collection of Phals, that allows one to have at least one Phal in bloom at
all times of year.

I completely removed the
spike in March (thought it was still green and healthy when I cut it,
but it had finished flowering).

If a Phal is healthy, and it's spike is still green, it may well reuse the
same spike again, so if it does reflower for you, you might consider not
removing the spike if it is still green. I think it is easier to get a Phal
to rebloom from an existing green spike then to get it to put out a new
one -- at least that's my subjective impression, but I may be wrong on this.
Anyway it takes less time for a Phal to reflower from an existing spike,
since it does not have to grow the entire spike from the beginning, so once
it starts continuing the spike or branch of the spike, you have a shorter
wait-time till flowering. However, if there is any doubt about the plants
health then definitely remove the spike.

During March, April, spring, summer, and fall it grew 3 new leaves. It
has 8 or 9 large, beautiful leaves. I repotted the orchid in orchid
mix in July.

Three new leaves is good. It does indead sound like a healthy plant.
Personally I prefer my orchids with a lot of leaves, though I know that it's
the flower count and not the leaf count that really matters, and an orchid
can be healthy with only 3 or 4 leaves. But I really like Phal leaves, the
more the merrier, and it is important for Phal health to grow new leaves
regularly.

The orchid came in a 6" clay pot. However, the orchid was actually
inside a much smaller, clear plastic pot embedded inside the clay pot
with bark.

Very important point: did the clay pot have enough drainage holes? If not,
this is a big problem. Sometimes vendors sell a plant with an outer
decorative pot that does not have sufficient drainage holes, and then one
should take the orchid out of that outer pot when watering. If that's the
kind of pot it was, then the orchid won't be happy being potted directly in
that pot.

I have a question about roots. I often read that orchid roots should
be green. Well, a few of my roots were actually green, but most were a
light brown color. When I took the orchid out of its plastic, clear
pot, it was pretty much full of roots and the roots were coming out of
the drainage holes in the bottom, too. I clipped away the dead, mushy
roots. When I removed the plant from the plastic pot, I noticed that
some of the roots seemed "broken". By that, I mean that there would be
breaks in the roots but the two segments would be held together by the
inner wire-like membrane. I left these roots intact and did not clip
them away. The orchid was repotted in the 6" clay pot with the roots
taking up most of the room.

Phal roots seem to come in different colors, and some of them are broken,
and some of them have only the wiry core that is still alive. I think it
takes experience to tell which roots should be left and which cut. I don't
really know this yet. As long as you had some green or green-white roots
though, that's good.

Regarding the bugs... I don't know where they came from. I sometimes
see them walking around on the bark when I move the bark around. I was
suggested to use an alcohol spray, but I don't know how to do this. Do
I mix the alcohol with anything like water, or do I just spray it
undiluted? How much do I spray on the bark? I don't want to kill the
plant. Is there any other general insecticide that I could treat the
plant with to get rid of any bugs that are living in it?

Did you use all fresh bark mix when repotting? Insects in bark are more
often seen in bark that's not fresh.
I think the alcohol is usually heavily diluted with water, and some dish
soap added, but I don't have much experience with that. The only bug that I
had thus far (in 3.5 years) was a single mealy bug that was promptly killed,
and no more have been sighted since, knock on wood. I've been lucky, but as
a result have nearly no experience on this front.

The plant is getting all the sunlight that I can provide it. I don't
know what else to do.

Hmm, Phals don't like that much light, so it depends on how much light is
"all the sunlight that [you] can provide it". If it is a Southern window,
then that would be too much. But if you have Northern windows only, like I
do, then all the sunlight that you can provide it may not be enough. I grow
in Northern windows with grow lights supplementing the fact that there
really isn't enough sunlight here. I am really envious of people with
Eastern windows. Sigh.

It is my one and only orchid and is beginning to
frustrate me.

I think that you may be a bit too impatient, and I have the same tendency,
and have often been too impatient with my orchids, when it turned out
unnecessary after all. With only one orchid it's really easy to fret too
much over it. You really should get more, then you will worry less over
them, and I suspect that you will be less frustrated. It's still too early
to really be frustrated, since this orchid last bloomed starting in
December, it's not been a year yet, and even when a year passes, it could
just be bit later this year.

Best,
Joanna

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 23:48:47 GMT, "J Fortuna"
wrote:

Mike,
not between two leaves. So, if I see something emerging from between
two leaves I should celebrate? :-)

No, roots could emerge from pretty much the same place as spikes. Also, a
spike can grow down and roots could grow up, so the direction does not
mean
much. The main ways to differentiate a root from a spike in a Phal a

-- the tips of the roots will be more rounded, whereas the tips of the
spike
will be more pointed
-- the roots are more likely to be shiny and more likely to be covered by
a
white layer, whereas the spike is less likely to have a shiny white
layer,
but will instead be green, brown, or purplish and non-shiny
-- spikes have nodes, sort of like knuckles in fingers, which subdivide a
spike into parts (these nodes are places where the spike might branch or
grow a bud from or grow a keiki from), whereas roots don't have such
nodes

It takes some experience to tell a root from a spike in a Phal, but with
time after you have had many of them you will be able to tell fairly
early
on which one it is. I am usually correct in guessing whether it is a
spike
or root almost right away, but I have 28 Phals and have been observing
roots
and spikes for 3.5 years now.

How long have you had this Phal? When is the last time your Phal bloomed?
Some Phals bloom only in the spring, for example, so this Phal might be a
spring bloomer. Some of my Phals bloom both in the fall and in the
spring,
but I think that's more of an exception than a rule, especially at the
beginning you are less likely to be disappointed if you expect your Phal
to
bloom only once a year. I have one Phal that has now started a new spike
after 1.5 years of not spiking, so that can happen, too.

I would be a bit worried about your night time temperatures, they seem a
bit
too low to me. Also the fact that you have some insects wandering on it,
depending on what kind of insects they are (whether they are an orchid
pest), this may cause stress to the plant and cause it not to bloom.

Also how much light are you providing this orchid? Where is it located?
Have
you tried changing the location to a better one? Sometimes a plant will
not
rebloom, and then one moves it to a different spot, and that does it.

I once read that the two things that are most likely to cause a plant not
to
respike are insufficient light or no difference between day and night
temperature (you have that covered, though maybe your difference is too
much?). The other thing that I read is that sometimes orchids will not
bloom
if they are too happy, so if they are being given too much fertilizer,
too
much light, and being watered too regularly, they may be too lazy to
rebloom -- orchids often thrive on a certain level of benign neglect, and
some speculate that some degree of deprivation may be beneficial and
induce
flowering (though don't overdo this).

That said, I have 2 Phals that have not reflowered for me either, and I
don't have a clue why they have not, while the others have been
reflowering
as expected or even more frequently. I think that having only one orchid
plant increases the chance that you will fret over it more, and have high
expectations for it, and it may not do what you expect. So get more
orchids!

Hope that some of this is helpful to you.

Best,
Joanna

"Mike" wrote in message
.. .
Claude,

The orchid was repotted in July. I would think that it would be well
established by now.

The roots are emerging from the outside part of the base of the plant,
not between two leaves. So, if I see something emerging from between
two leaves I should celebrate? :-)

Mike

On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 15:36:14 -0400, "Claude"
wrote:

Hello again!

Blooming takes lot`s of energy for a plant.
If you just repotted the plant and cut some roots, the plant is busy
adapting to the new environment. The plants needs to establish it`s
roots
before blooming.
Phals grow aerial roots to capture moisture and nutrients from the
air.
They
can grow roots and spike together if the plant is really happy.

A spike looks almost like the tip of the root except it`s flat instead
or
round. Usually, spike emerge between 2 leaves.

My advice, if I may, would be to leave the plant for now since it`s
getting
establish. For the bugs, I would try an alcohol spray and keep the
plant
away from the others.


Claude

"Mike" wrote in message
.. .
| Claude,
|
| Why would the plant be in an active growing period? Shouldn't this
be
| the time when the plant stops growing new leaves and roots and
| produces a spike?
|
| The white bugs (which I've only seem a few) are teeny tiny bugs that
| only crawl. I saw them on and around the new roots and on the
medium.
|
| The orchid came in a small clear plastic pot which was embedded in
| bark inside a clay pot. I repotted the orchid into the clay pot
which
| is 6" I think. The plant had a lot of roots. I clipped away the
dead,
| mushy roots. The remaining roots almost completely filled the pot.
|
| Can a phalaenopsis grow roots and spike at the same time?
|
| What does a flower spike emerging from the base of the plant look
| like? The roots emerged from nodes (bumps) on the base of the plant
at
| the same level where the old spike was cut.
|
| Any help would be much appreciated!
|
| Mike
|
| On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 14:49:17 -0400, "Claude"
| wrote:
|
| Hello!
|
| Here are my guess...
|
| Your day time temperature seems little bit too low! Most phal like
to
grow
| between 21C and 28C, although some like it hotter and some colder.
But
the
| temperature drop at night seems too big. A difference of 10C
between
daytime
| and nighttime would be better.
|
| The fact that the tip of your roots is getting reddish mean that
your
plant
| is in active growing period. That part is called apical meristem.
|
| About your bugs, can you describe them a bit better! Do they fly?
are
they
| on the medium?
| Did you check the leaves? roots?
|
| Claude
|
| "Mike" wrote in message
| .. .
| | Orchid friends,
| |
| | My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The
plant
| | is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the
moment.
| | I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it
into
| | spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
| | hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about
8C/46F.
| | But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern
Ontario,
| | so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.
| |
| | The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are
reddish.
| | I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.
| |
| | I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
| | insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?
| |
| | What am I doing wrong?
| |
| | Mike
| |
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MH light is a metal halide bulb. I have a 400-watt bulb in a housing.
These cost several hundred dollars, so you might want to wait to get
one of these until you have more plants. (You will.) Flourescent grow
lights are cheaper and will work for phals. A regular light bulb is NOT
the same thing and won't give your plant the intensity of light or the
spectrum that it needs. All plants need a period of darkness, so limit
any artificial light to no more than 14 hours a day. Your best bet at
this time of year is probably to put the plant in front of a
south-facing window and supplement that light with a spot grow light.
Make sure that your plant is not too getting too warm during the day
when the sun shines through the glass (you don't want to cook the
leaves) nor too close to the window at night, when the leaves could get
too cold.




In article , Mike
wrote:

I will try increasing the amount of light the plant is getting.

Can you explain what an MH light is? Can I just put the plant under a
room lamp and have the lamp's light shine down on it all day?

What watt bulb would I use? 40W, 60W? How long should I leave the
plant under this light every day? How far away should the lamp be from
the plant? Or is using a room lamp a bad idea?

Mike

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 00:02:55 GMT, dd
wrote:

Mike,

I'm no expert at phals, but I have failed a lot--A LOT-- with getting
them to live and to flower, so please learn from my mistakes. First,
your fertilizer is dead wrong. Ditch the 10-60-10. The "60" is a big No
No. In nature, these guys only get a squirt of nutrients when a bird
flies overhead and has a bladder probem, or some rain forest stuff is
mildly decomposing... Go for a more balanced fertilzer, and use it at a
diluted strength--1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon.

Second, rapid root growth might be a "trying to survive" signal. Mist
the aerial roots daily. Many of my phals that were growing aerial roots
in response to semi-hydroponic media are now spiking--rampant root
growth and spikes. So, humor the aerial roots, mist them with mildly
fertilized water, and if you have sufficient light, spikes will not be
far behind.

Your night temperatures are too cool. You are courting messophyl cell
collapse, I'd guess. Boost your night temps to 60 degrees F, and have
your day temps be at about 75-80 degrees F.

A wise old orchid dude once told me that if you can't get the sucker to
flower, move it to a different location in your growing area. In your
case, this might mean an area with more light or under light, such as
MH lights.

Regarding bugs: Use the small cannons first: a weekly water spray and
wipes with cotton balls drenched in rubbing alchohol can go a long
way.. If that doesn't work, blast them with chemicals, being careful
not to poison yourself, your family, or your beloved pets.

Good luck.


In article , Mike
wrote:

Orchid friends,

My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The plant
is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the moment.
I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it into
spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about 8C/46F.
But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern Ontario,
so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.

The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are reddish.
I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.

I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?

What am I doing wrong?

Mike

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"dd" wrote in message
...
snip
Your best bet at
this time of year is probably to put the plant in front of a
south-facing window and supplement that light with a spot grow light.
Make sure that your plant is not too getting too warm during the day
when the sun shines through the glass (you don't want to cook the
leaves) nor too close to the window at night, when the leaves could get
too cold.

dd,
Is Mike (or are you?) in the Southern Hemisphere? If not, then putting a
Phalaenopsis in a Southern window will be too much (unless there is a sheer
curtain there or the plant is far enough away from the window), and adding a
spot grow light beyond that would be overkill. It's a Phal not a cattleya,
and so if it's in a window it won't need artificial light unless it's a
Northern window ... unless of course you are in the Southern hemisphere, and
your Southern window is like my Northern window, and in that case your
advice is exactly what I am doing in the other hemisphere. But before Mike
invests in grow spotlights, I would like to make sure that he does not have
an Eastern or a Western window, in which case sunlight should be enough
without grow lights ... until he has so many orchids that he can't crowd
them all in front of the windows.
Joanna

In article , Mike
wrote:

I will try increasing the amount of light the plant is getting.

Can you explain what an MH light is? Can I just put the plant under a
room lamp and have the lamp's light shine down on it all day?

What watt bulb would I use? 40W, 60W? How long should I leave the
plant under this light every day? How far away should the lamp be from
the plant? Or is using a room lamp a bad idea?

Mike

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 00:02:55 GMT, dd
wrote:

Mike,

I'm no expert at phals, but I have failed a lot--A LOT-- with getting
them to live and to flower, so please learn from my mistakes. First,
your fertilizer is dead wrong. Ditch the 10-60-10. The "60" is a big No
No. In nature, these guys only get a squirt of nutrients when a bird
flies overhead and has a bladder probem, or some rain forest stuff is
mildly decomposing... Go for a more balanced fertilzer, and use it at a
diluted strength--1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon.

Second, rapid root growth might be a "trying to survive" signal. Mist
the aerial roots daily. Many of my phals that were growing aerial roots
in response to semi-hydroponic media are now spiking--rampant root
growth and spikes. So, humor the aerial roots, mist them with mildly
fertilized water, and if you have sufficient light, spikes will not be
far behind.

Your night temperatures are too cool. You are courting messophyl cell
collapse, I'd guess. Boost your night temps to 60 degrees F, and have
your day temps be at about 75-80 degrees F.

A wise old orchid dude once told me that if you can't get the sucker to
flower, move it to a different location in your growing area. In your
case, this might mean an area with more light or under light, such as
MH lights.

Regarding bugs: Use the small cannons first: a weekly water spray and
wipes with cotton balls drenched in rubbing alchohol can go a long
way.. If that doesn't work, blast them with chemicals, being careful
not to poison yourself, your family, or your beloved pets.

Good luck.


In article , Mike
wrote:

Orchid friends,

My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The plant
is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the
moment.
I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it
into
spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about 8C/46F.
But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern Ontario,
so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.

The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are
reddish.
I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.

I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?

What am I doing wrong?

Mike

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I live in Southwestern Ontario near Detroit, MI. From what I can tell
(without a compass to be sure) my house gets East and West sunlight.
In the mornings one side of the house gets all the sun, and in the
afternoons the other side gets all the sun. The orchid is on the West
side (the afternoon sun side).

I've checked the day temps and they are around 22C to 26C (depending
on how much sunlight there is that day). In the evenings, I'm placing
the orchid next to an open window for a few hours to cool it down to
12C to 15C to hopefully make it spike. I don't know if the plants are
supposed to get the cold treatment all night or if a few hours is
enough.

Would direct sunlight still be dangerous to the orchid at this time of
the year? The sun is lower and lower in the sky as winter approaches.
So would the sunlight shining directly on the orchid still harm it at
this time, in the winter, and early spring?

Mike

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 14:36:45 GMT, "J Fortuna"
wrote:


"dd" wrote in message
t...
snip
Your best bet at
this time of year is probably to put the plant in front of a
south-facing window and supplement that light with a spot grow light.
Make sure that your plant is not too getting too warm during the day
when the sun shines through the glass (you don't want to cook the
leaves) nor too close to the window at night, when the leaves could get
too cold.

dd,
Is Mike (or are you?) in the Southern Hemisphere? If not, then putting a
Phalaenopsis in a Southern window will be too much (unless there is a sheer
curtain there or the plant is far enough away from the window), and adding a
spot grow light beyond that would be overkill. It's a Phal not a cattleya,
and so if it's in a window it won't need artificial light unless it's a
Northern window ... unless of course you are in the Southern hemisphere, and
your Southern window is like my Northern window, and in that case your
advice is exactly what I am doing in the other hemisphere. But before Mike
invests in grow spotlights, I would like to make sure that he does not have
an Eastern or a Western window, in which case sunlight should be enough
without grow lights ... until he has so many orchids that he can't crowd
them all in front of the windows.
Joanna

In article , Mike
wrote:

I will try increasing the amount of light the plant is getting.

Can you explain what an MH light is? Can I just put the plant under a
room lamp and have the lamp's light shine down on it all day?

What watt bulb would I use? 40W, 60W? How long should I leave the
plant under this light every day? How far away should the lamp be from
the plant? Or is using a room lamp a bad idea?

Mike

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 00:02:55 GMT, dd
wrote:

Mike,

I'm no expert at phals, but I have failed a lot--A LOT-- with getting
them to live and to flower, so please learn from my mistakes. First,
your fertilizer is dead wrong. Ditch the 10-60-10. The "60" is a big No
No. In nature, these guys only get a squirt of nutrients when a bird
flies overhead and has a bladder probem, or some rain forest stuff is
mildly decomposing... Go for a more balanced fertilzer, and use it at a
diluted strength--1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon.

Second, rapid root growth might be a "trying to survive" signal. Mist
the aerial roots daily. Many of my phals that were growing aerial roots
in response to semi-hydroponic media are now spiking--rampant root
growth and spikes. So, humor the aerial roots, mist them with mildly
fertilized water, and if you have sufficient light, spikes will not be
far behind.

Your night temperatures are too cool. You are courting messophyl cell
collapse, I'd guess. Boost your night temps to 60 degrees F, and have
your day temps be at about 75-80 degrees F.

A wise old orchid dude once told me that if you can't get the sucker to
flower, move it to a different location in your growing area. In your
case, this might mean an area with more light or under light, such as
MH lights.

Regarding bugs: Use the small cannons first: a weekly water spray and
wipes with cotton balls drenched in rubbing alchohol can go a long
way.. If that doesn't work, blast them with chemicals, being careful
not to poison yourself, your family, or your beloved pets.

Good luck.


In article , Mike
wrote:

Orchid friends,

My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The plant
is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the
moment.
I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it
into
spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about 8C/46F.
But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern Ontario,
so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.

The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are
reddish.
I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.

I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?

What am I doing wrong?

Mike

Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
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Mike wrote:

Would direct sunlight still be dangerous to the orchid at this time of
the year? The sun is lower and lower in the sky as winter approaches.
So would the sunlight shining directly on the orchid still harm it at
this time, in the winter, and early spring?


Yes, it could be. Practically, it probably wouldn't be unless there
were a drastic change in light levels over a short time. Orchids (most
plants, in fact) adapt to changes in light intensity by changing the
pigment levels in the leaves, like getting a tan. So, the leaves may
turn lighter green, perhaps even red or slightly yellowed, in high
light, and back to deeper green in lower light. Watch the plant, and be
prepared to move it back from the window a few inches if it starts to
get too yellow.

So, if you have a big deciduous tree outside your south window, and
the leaves fall off on a windy day in early november, your plant might
get burnt. While the sun may have been lower in the sky over a period
of time, the leaves were blocking the full intensity of the sun, and
when they are gone so is your plant. Without the tree and the leaves,
the orchid may have adapted to the gradually increasing light levels,
even (perhaps) to tolerating a few hours of direct sunlight.

Anyway, it is the drastic changes that get you. Like when my wife
put several flats of seedlings outside for a few minutes to clean
underneath them. Each and every one burned to a crisp in less than 15
minutes. But I had plants of the same genus living outside at the same
time.

Me, I get sun burned if I look at a picture of the sun, much less
spend any time outdoors...

Rob

--
Rob's Rules: http://www.msu.edu/~halgren
1) There is always room for one more orchid
2) There is always room for two more orchids
2a. See rule 1
3) When one has insufficient credit to purchase
more orchids, obtain more credit
LittlefrogFarm is open - e-mail me for a list )

In article 1GNgd.1327$pY6.431@trnddc04, J Fortuna
wrote:

"dd" wrote in message
...
snip
Your best bet at
this time of year is probably to put the plant in front of a
south-facing window and supplement that light with a spot grow light.
Make sure that your plant is not too getting too warm during the day
when the sun shines through the glass (you don't want to cook the
leaves) nor too close to the window at night, when the leaves could get
too cold.

dd,
Is Mike (or are you?) in the Southern Hemisphere? If not, then putting a
Phalaenopsis in a Southern window will be too much (unless there is a sheer
curtain there or the plant is far enough away from the window), and adding a
spot grow light beyond that would be overkill. It's a Phal not a cattleya,
and so if it's in a window it won't need artificial light unless it's a
Northern window ... unless of course you are in the Southern hemisphere, and
your Southern window is like my Northern window, and in that case your
advice is exactly what I am doing in the other hemisphere. But before Mike
invests in grow spotlights, I would like to make sure that he does not have
an Eastern or a Western window, in which case sunlight should be enough
without grow lights ... until he has so many orchids that he can't crowd
them all in front of the windows.
Joanna


He's in Canada, and I'm in New England. The sun is very weak this time
of year in this latitude, and the temperatures are not hot. On the very
brightest days, I check for leaves that might be too warm, but there
are not many of those days, and usually even on bright days, with my
windows, I don't need any protection via a curtain. (BTW, the catts and
dendrobiums are are closest to the windows--and they do not mind full
sun at all--very cool air coming off of the windows are another
matter.) Overall, the days are very short and most are overcast. Simply
put, it's a dark and dismal time of year for New Englanders, probably
more so for Mike, and using a sheer curtain would cut down on the
available light, such as it is. My concern would be that his plants are
right next to or touching the glass, which could be a bad thing.
Anyway, my plants do not need a curtain at this time of year, and I
doubt that Mike's do either--If I lived in Florida, it would be a very
different matter. From now until the vernal equinox, natural light is
in short supply. After that, it's a different ballgame.

dd and Mike,
Oh oh, yes I guess I was not factoring in the possibility of latitude
difference as I should have. In our latitude (Washington DC area) we still
can get very bright and hot days even at this time of year. I haven't been
that far North in the winter, only time I visited Canada was in the summer.
Feeling sorry for you both now, dreary days aren't fun. Hope your orchids
will provide you some flowers to brighten up your dreary days. One of mine
right now has reflowered with these beautiful orange flowers that look like
sunshine and make me smile. I wish you similar.
Joanna

"dd" wrote in message
...
He's in Canada, and I'm in New England. The sun is very weak this time
of year in this latitude, and the temperatures are not hot. On the very
brightest days, I check for leaves that might be too warm, but there
are not many of those days, and usually even on bright days, with my
windows, I don't need any protection via a curtain. (BTW, the catts and
dendrobiums are are closest to the windows--and they do not mind full
sun at all--very cool air coming off of the windows are another
matter.) Overall, the days are very short and most are overcast. Simply
put, it's a dark and dismal time of year for New Englanders, probably
more so for Mike, and using a sheer curtain would cut down on the
available light, such as it is. My concern would be that his plants are
right next to or touching the glass, which could be a bad thing.
Anyway, my plants do not need a curtain at this time of year, and I
doubt that Mike's do either--If I lived in Florida, it would be a very
different matter. From now until the vernal equinox, natural light is
in short supply. After that, it's a different ballgame.

dd and Mike,
Oh oh, yes I guess I was not factoring in the possibility of latitude
difference as I should have. In our latitude (Washington DC area) we still
can get very bright and hot days even at this time of year. I haven't been
that far North in the winter, only time I visited Canada was in the summer.
Feeling sorry for you both now, dreary days aren't fun. Hope your orchids
will provide you some flowers to brighten up your dreary days. One of mine
right now has reflowered with these beautiful orange flowers that look like
sunshine and make me smile. I wish you similar.
Joanna

"dd" wrote in message
...
He's in Canada, and I'm in New England. The sun is very weak this time
of year in this latitude, and the temperatures are not hot. On the very
brightest days, I check for leaves that might be too warm, but there
are not many of those days, and usually even on bright days, with my
windows, I don't need any protection via a curtain. (BTW, the catts and
dendrobiums are are closest to the windows--and they do not mind full
sun at all--very cool air coming off of the windows are another
matter.) Overall, the days are very short and most are overcast. Simply
put, it's a dark and dismal time of year for New Englanders, probably
more so for Mike, and using a sheer curtain would cut down on the
available light, such as it is. My concern would be that his plants are
right next to or touching the glass, which could be a bad thing.
Anyway, my plants do not need a curtain at this time of year, and I
doubt that Mike's do either--If I lived in Florida, it would be a very
different matter. From now until the vernal equinox, natural light is
in short supply. After that, it's a different ballgame.

Hi Mike,
I am a few hours east of you. I have had good luck with Phals in an east
window, set them back a bit from the window so that they do not get a chill
during the cool weather. Mike is in the "banana belt" of Canada, that's why
I said "cool weather" as it never gets cold (wish that was true). I also
have Phals in west windows but moved further back from the window. Our
house temperature drops back at night to about 16c (64f). automatically.
These plants have bloomed year after year. Our house Phals under these
conditions do as well as the ones that we keep in the greenhouse. My Phals
tend to sulk if they get to cool (heating problem in the greenhouse once).
I feed with a balanced fertilizer while the plant is in growth then switch
to one with a high second number (10-60-10 has worked for me in the past) as
the plant begins to spike and through out the blooming period. Once a month
I flush with clear water to remove any salts build up.
This method has worked well for me for years, hopefully some of this will
be of use for you.
All the best
Don

"Mike" wrote in message
...
I live in Southwestern Ontario near Detroit, MI. From what I can tell
(without a compass to be sure) my house gets East and West sunlight.
In the mornings one side of the house gets all the sun, and in the
afternoons the other side gets all the sun. The orchid is on the West
side (the afternoon sun side).

I've checked the day temps and they are around 22C to 26C (depending
on how much sunlight there is that day). In the evenings, I'm placing
the orchid next to an open window for a few hours to cool it down to
12C to 15C to hopefully make it spike. I don't know if the plants are
supposed to get the cold treatment all night or if a few hours is
enough.

Would direct sunlight still be dangerous to the orchid at this time of
the year? The sun is lower and lower in the sky as winter approaches.
So would the sunlight shining directly on the orchid still harm it at
this time, in the winter, and early spring?

Mike

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 14:36:45 GMT, "J Fortuna"
wrote:


"dd" wrote in message
t...
snip
Your best bet at
this time of year is probably to put the plant in front of a
south-facing window and supplement that light with a spot grow light.
Make sure that your plant is not too getting too warm during the day
when the sun shines through the glass (you don't want to cook the
leaves) nor too close to the window at night, when the leaves could get
too cold.

dd,
Is Mike (or are you?) in the Southern Hemisphere? If not, then putting a
Phalaenopsis in a Southern window will be too much (unless there is a
sheer
curtain there or the plant is far enough away from the window), and
adding a
spot grow light beyond that would be overkill. It's a Phal not a
cattleya,
and so if it's in a window it won't need artificial light unless it's a
Northern window ... unless of course you are in the Southern hemisphere,
and
your Southern window is like my Northern window, and in that case your
advice is exactly what I am doing in the other hemisphere. But before
Mike
invests in grow spotlights, I would like to make sure that he does not
have
an Eastern or a Western window, in which case sunlight should be enough
without grow lights ... until he has so many orchids that he can't crowd
them all in front of the windows.
Joanna

In article , Mike
wrote:

I will try increasing the amount of light the plant is getting.

Can you explain what an MH light is? Can I just put the plant under a
room lamp and have the lamp's light shine down on it all day?

What watt bulb would I use? 40W, 60W? How long should I leave the
plant under this light every day? How far away should the lamp be
from
the plant? Or is using a room lamp a bad idea?

Mike

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 00:02:55 GMT, dd
wrote:

Mike,

I'm no expert at phals, but I have failed a lot--A LOT-- with
getting
them to live and to flower, so please learn from my mistakes. First,
your fertilizer is dead wrong. Ditch the 10-60-10. The "60" is a big
No
No. In nature, these guys only get a squirt of nutrients when a bird
flies overhead and has a bladder probem, or some rain forest stuff
is
mildly decomposing... Go for a more balanced fertilzer, and use it
at a
diluted strength--1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon.

Second, rapid root growth might be a "trying to survive" signal.
Mist
the aerial roots daily. Many of my phals that were growing aerial
roots
in response to semi-hydroponic media are now spiking--rampant root
growth and spikes. So, humor the aerial roots, mist them with mildly
fertilized water, and if you have sufficient light, spikes will not
be
far behind.

Your night temperatures are too cool. You are courting messophyl
cell
collapse, I'd guess. Boost your night temps to 60 degrees F, and
have
your day temps be at about 75-80 degrees F.

A wise old orchid dude once told me that if you can't get the sucker
to
flower, move it to a different location in your growing area. In
your
case, this might mean an area with more light or under light, such
as
MH lights.

Regarding bugs: Use the small cannons first: a weekly water spray
and
wipes with cotton balls drenched in rubbing alchohol can go a long
way.. If that doesn't work, blast them with chemicals, being careful
not to poison yourself, your family, or your beloved pets.

Good luck.


In article , Mike
wrote:

Orchid friends,

My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The
plant
is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the
moment.
I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it
into
spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about
8C/46F.
But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern
Ontario,
so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.

The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are
reddish.
I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.

I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?

What am I doing wrong?

Mike

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Hi Mike,
I am a few hours east of you. I have had good luck with Phals in an east
window, set them back a bit from the window so that they do not get a chill
during the cool weather. Mike is in the "banana belt" of Canada, that's why
I said "cool weather" as it never gets cold (wish that was true). I also
have Phals in west windows but moved further back from the window. Our
house temperature drops back at night to about 16c (64f). automatically.
These plants have bloomed year after year. Our house Phals under these
conditions do as well as the ones that we keep in the greenhouse. My Phals
tend to sulk if they get to cool (heating problem in the greenhouse once).
I feed with a balanced fertilizer while the plant is in growth then switch
to one with a high second number (10-60-10 has worked for me in the past) as
the plant begins to spike and through out the blooming period. Once a month
I flush with clear water to remove any salts build up.
This method has worked well for me for years, hopefully some of this will
be of use for you.
All the best
Don

"Mike" wrote in message
...
I live in Southwestern Ontario near Detroit, MI. From what I can tell
(without a compass to be sure) my house gets East and West sunlight.
In the mornings one side of the house gets all the sun, and in the
afternoons the other side gets all the sun. The orchid is on the West
side (the afternoon sun side).

I've checked the day temps and they are around 22C to 26C (depending
on how much sunlight there is that day). In the evenings, I'm placing
the orchid next to an open window for a few hours to cool it down to
12C to 15C to hopefully make it spike. I don't know if the plants are
supposed to get the cold treatment all night or if a few hours is
enough.

Would direct sunlight still be dangerous to the orchid at this time of
the year? The sun is lower and lower in the sky as winter approaches.
So would the sunlight shining directly on the orchid still harm it at
this time, in the winter, and early spring?

Mike

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 14:36:45 GMT, "J Fortuna"
wrote:


"dd" wrote in message
t...
snip
Your best bet at
this time of year is probably to put the plant in front of a
south-facing window and supplement that light with a spot grow light.
Make sure that your plant is not too getting too warm during the day
when the sun shines through the glass (you don't want to cook the
leaves) nor too close to the window at night, when the leaves could get
too cold.

dd,
Is Mike (or are you?) in the Southern Hemisphere? If not, then putting a
Phalaenopsis in a Southern window will be too much (unless there is a
sheer
curtain there or the plant is far enough away from the window), and
adding a
spot grow light beyond that would be overkill. It's a Phal not a
cattleya,
and so if it's in a window it won't need artificial light unless it's a
Northern window ... unless of course you are in the Southern hemisphere,
and
your Southern window is like my Northern window, and in that case your
advice is exactly what I am doing in the other hemisphere. But before
Mike
invests in grow spotlights, I would like to make sure that he does not
have
an Eastern or a Western window, in which case sunlight should be enough
without grow lights ... until he has so many orchids that he can't crowd
them all in front of the windows.
Joanna

In article , Mike
wrote:

I will try increasing the amount of light the plant is getting.

Can you explain what an MH light is? Can I just put the plant under a
room lamp and have the lamp's light shine down on it all day?

What watt bulb would I use? 40W, 60W? How long should I leave the
plant under this light every day? How far away should the lamp be
from
the plant? Or is using a room lamp a bad idea?

Mike

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 00:02:55 GMT, dd
wrote:

Mike,

I'm no expert at phals, but I have failed a lot--A LOT-- with
getting
them to live and to flower, so please learn from my mistakes. First,
your fertilizer is dead wrong. Ditch the 10-60-10. The "60" is a big
No
No. In nature, these guys only get a squirt of nutrients when a bird
flies overhead and has a bladder probem, or some rain forest stuff
is
mildly decomposing... Go for a more balanced fertilzer, and use it
at a
diluted strength--1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon.

Second, rapid root growth might be a "trying to survive" signal.
Mist
the aerial roots daily. Many of my phals that were growing aerial
roots
in response to semi-hydroponic media are now spiking--rampant root
growth and spikes. So, humor the aerial roots, mist them with mildly
fertilized water, and if you have sufficient light, spikes will not
be
far behind.

Your night temperatures are too cool. You are courting messophyl
cell
collapse, I'd guess. Boost your night temps to 60 degrees F, and
have
your day temps be at about 75-80 degrees F.

A wise old orchid dude once told me that if you can't get the sucker
to
flower, move it to a different location in your growing area. In
your
case, this might mean an area with more light or under light, such
as
MH lights.

Regarding bugs: Use the small cannons first: a weekly water spray
and
wipes with cotton balls drenched in rubbing alchohol can go a long
way.. If that doesn't work, blast them with chemicals, being careful
not to poison yourself, your family, or your beloved pets.

Good luck.


In article , Mike
wrote:

Orchid friends,

My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The
plant
is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the
moment.
I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it
into
spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about
8C/46F.
But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern
Ontario,
so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.

The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are
reddish.
I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.

I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?

What am I doing wrong?

Mike

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Hi Mike,
I am a few hours east of you. I have had good luck with Phals in an east
window, set them back a bit from the window so that they do not get a chill
during the cool weather. Mike is in the "banana belt" of Canada, that's why
I said "cool weather" as it never gets cold (wish that was true). I also
have Phals in west windows but moved further back from the window. Our
house temperature drops back at night to about 16c (64f). automatically.
These plants have bloomed year after year. Our house Phals under these
conditions do as well as the ones that we keep in the greenhouse. My Phals
tend to sulk if they get to cool (heating problem in the greenhouse once).
I feed with a balanced fertilizer while the plant is in growth then switch
to one with a high second number (10-60-10 has worked for me in the past) as
the plant begins to spike and through out the blooming period. Once a month
I flush with clear water to remove any salts build up.
This method has worked well for me for years, hopefully some of this will
be of use for you.
All the best
Don

"Mike" wrote in message
...
I live in Southwestern Ontario near Detroit, MI. From what I can tell
(without a compass to be sure) my house gets East and West sunlight.
In the mornings one side of the house gets all the sun, and in the
afternoons the other side gets all the sun. The orchid is on the West
side (the afternoon sun side).

I've checked the day temps and they are around 22C to 26C (depending
on how much sunlight there is that day). In the evenings, I'm placing
the orchid next to an open window for a few hours to cool it down to
12C to 15C to hopefully make it spike. I don't know if the plants are
supposed to get the cold treatment all night or if a few hours is
enough.

Would direct sunlight still be dangerous to the orchid at this time of
the year? The sun is lower and lower in the sky as winter approaches.
So would the sunlight shining directly on the orchid still harm it at
this time, in the winter, and early spring?

Mike

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 14:36:45 GMT, "J Fortuna"
wrote:


"dd" wrote in message
t...
snip
Your best bet at
this time of year is probably to put the plant in front of a
south-facing window and supplement that light with a spot grow light.
Make sure that your plant is not too getting too warm during the day
when the sun shines through the glass (you don't want to cook the
leaves) nor too close to the window at night, when the leaves could get
too cold.

dd,
Is Mike (or are you?) in the Southern Hemisphere? If not, then putting a
Phalaenopsis in a Southern window will be too much (unless there is a
sheer
curtain there or the plant is far enough away from the window), and
adding a
spot grow light beyond that would be overkill. It's a Phal not a
cattleya,
and so if it's in a window it won't need artificial light unless it's a
Northern window ... unless of course you are in the Southern hemisphere,
and
your Southern window is like my Northern window, and in that case your
advice is exactly what I am doing in the other hemisphere. But before
Mike
invests in grow spotlights, I would like to make sure that he does not
have
an Eastern or a Western window, in which case sunlight should be enough
without grow lights ... until he has so many orchids that he can't crowd
them all in front of the windows.
Joanna

In article , Mike
wrote:

I will try increasing the amount of light the plant is getting.

Can you explain what an MH light is? Can I just put the plant under a
room lamp and have the lamp's light shine down on it all day?

What watt bulb would I use? 40W, 60W? How long should I leave the
plant under this light every day? How far away should the lamp be
from
the plant? Or is using a room lamp a bad idea?

Mike

On Thu, 28 Oct 2004 00:02:55 GMT, dd
wrote:

Mike,

I'm no expert at phals, but I have failed a lot--A LOT-- with
getting
them to live and to flower, so please learn from my mistakes. First,
your fertilizer is dead wrong. Ditch the 10-60-10. The "60" is a big
No
No. In nature, these guys only get a squirt of nutrients when a bird
flies overhead and has a bladder probem, or some rain forest stuff
is
mildly decomposing... Go for a more balanced fertilzer, and use it
at a
diluted strength--1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon.

Second, rapid root growth might be a "trying to survive" signal.
Mist
the aerial roots daily. Many of my phals that were growing aerial
roots
in response to semi-hydroponic media are now spiking--rampant root
growth and spikes. So, humor the aerial roots, mist them with mildly
fertilized water, and if you have sufficient light, spikes will not
be
far behind.

Your night temperatures are too cool. You are courting messophyl
cell
collapse, I'd guess. Boost your night temps to 60 degrees F, and
have
your day temps be at about 75-80 degrees F.

A wise old orchid dude once told me that if you can't get the sucker
to
flower, move it to a different location in your growing area. In
your
case, this might mean an area with more light or under light, such
as
MH lights.

Regarding bugs: Use the small cannons first: a weekly water spray
and
wipes with cotton balls drenched in rubbing alchohol can go a long
way.. If that doesn't work, blast them with chemicals, being careful
not to poison yourself, your family, or your beloved pets.

Good luck.


In article , Mike
wrote:

Orchid friends,

My Phalaenopsis is growing two new roots and no spike yet! The
plant
is extremely healthy and happy. It has 8 healthy leaves at the
moment.
I am fertilizing it with 10-60-10 (Schultz Bloom Plus) to push it
into
spike. I am even giving it the cold treatment at night for a few
hours. Day temps are about 22C/71F and night temps are about
8C/46F.
But there is no sign of a spike yet! I live in Southwestern
Ontario,
so the plant should be producing a spike right about this time.

The roots are pointy and about 0.5 cm in length. The tips are
reddish.
I'm assuming they are roots since they are growing down.

I also see tiny white and black bugs walking around. Which
insecticides are safe to use with an orchid?

What am I doing wrong?

Mike

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----------------------------------------------------------
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----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
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http://www.usenet.com



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
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