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#1
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Question about an unusual pond set up
I have constructed a pond that does not recirculate water, but
intercepts well water from a campus cooling system and runs it through the pond prior to flowing into the storm sewer. The water is cool and clear, but tends to warm up while it moves through the pond. Temp can be regulated by the rate of well water flow through the pond. Alas it grows algae. I have experience with a a similar sculpture pool with the same water set up that we periodically shock the pool with swimming pool chemicals and periodic scrubbing to keep clean. The intent of the new pond is more 'naturalistic' and I would like to keep water plants etc. which wouldn't like being chemically shocked!!! I thought perhaps some fish could keep the algae in some sort of equillibrium. The water does not turn green because of the constant water turnover, but algae grows from the bottom. Does anyone see hope for fish??? to be seasonally kept in such a set up to control algae, or other suggestions? Thanks Paul m. |
#2
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Question about an unusual pond set up
I would try plants, first and foremost, to compete for the nutrients that that algae is using to grow. Fish will only add more nutrients and would probably escape to the sewer system, or their infants would. Weeeee, freedom! ;-) I'd keep the plants in pots so they don't overgrow the system and start plugging it up. Cattails, pickerel, arrowhead, lizard's tail, water iris are a few that come to mind. Nice, tough marginal plants, can grow with two to about six inches of water over their crowns. If you have any pictures you could post on a web page we could probably even refine our advice further. It sounds like an interesting and unique problem! k :-) http://tinyurl.com/6bguh ~ new pond keeper info http://tinyurl.com/yp64db ~ slide show of pond |
#3
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Question about an unusual pond set up
On Wed, 30 May 2007 15:36:23 CST, "Paul M."
wrote: The intent of the new pond is more 'naturalistic' and I would like to keep water plants etc. which wouldn't like being chemically shocked!!! I thought perhaps some fish could keep the algae in some sort of equillibrium. The water does not turn green because of the constant water turnover, but algae grows from the bottom. Does anyone see hope for fish??? to be seasonally kept in such a set up to control algae, or other suggestions? We see the constant water overturn differently. Others with flow through ponds have the same problem. I have one suggestion for clear water and it isn't a guaranteed cure, but I would bet on it. Determine the size of the pond in gallons. Restrict the flow of new water going into the pond to about 10% of the pond volume per week and expect normal overflow, diverting the excess water around or away from the pond. Add plants to act as filter and add fish gradually. BTW the algae that grows on the bottom and sides is an asset. Most of us prefer to leave that in place. Regards, Hal |
#4
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Question about an unusual pond set up
"Paul M." wrote:
I have constructed a pond that does not recirculate water, but intercepts well water from a campus cooling system and runs it through the pond prior to flowing into the storm sewer. The water is cool and clear, but tends to warm up while it moves through the pond. Temp can be regulated by the rate of well water flow through the pond. Alas it grows algae. I have experience with a a similar sculpture pool with the same water set up that we periodically shock the pool with swimming pool chemicals and periodic scrubbing to keep clean. The intent of the new pond is more 'naturalistic' and I would like to keep water plants etc. which wouldn't like being chemically shocked!!! I thought perhaps some fish could keep the algae in some sort of equillibrium. The water does not turn green because of the constant water turnover, but algae grows from the bottom. Does anyone see hope for fish??? to be seasonally kept in such a set up to control algae, or other suggestions? I have virtually the same thing. Mine is an old mortar and stone 18,000 gallon (17'x 47'x 2-4') swimming pool that is spring fed. We filled in the deep end so that it is 4' at the deepest. The pond fills in about 24 hours from the springs. The overflow goes into the storm drain which goes into a creek. The spring water's temperature is 50 F. The pond's temperature gets up to 70 F by the middle of summer. When first filled with water, it quickly covered over with string algae. I put 12 trap-door snails in the pond and they multiplied at a fantastic rate. Soon they were eating the string algae. Frogs came into the pool at an alarming rate. Marginal plants are doing very well. The water is reasonably clear. Algae is caused by nutrients in the water and sunlight. Here is what I do: € Planted 10 water lilies and one lotus, which have large leaves that shade the pond surface. Shade is important in preventing algae. I let Azolla caroliniana ("Fairy Moss") cover the surface during the winter and early spring to provide shade before the lilies and lotus form their leaves. Then I scoop most of the Azolla out with a swimming pool skimmer net in mid-spring so I can see the fish. It doesn't come back until the next winter. € Planted about 64 marginal filter plants in baskets with clay soil (Walmart's cheapest Kitty Litter) and no fertilizer around the edge on 8 - 2 foot x 8 foot black plastic greenhouse benches about 5 inches below the water surface. Marginal plants remove nutrients from the water and prevent algae. Fish like lurking under the benches and frogs like sitting on the plants. € Introduced trap-door snails into the pond which eat dead material in the pond and hence break down plant nutrients. The snails multiply nicely each spring and take care of dead plant material. € Sunk oxygenator plants on the bottom, Anacharis and Hornwort. I also have a 1.7 CFM, 40-Watt air pump and two aerator heads to keep the oxygen levels up in the winter when the plants become dormant. The higher oxygen level helps support fish and aerobic bacteria. Adding the aeration changed the water from a tea color to a more clear color. € Floated a bale of barley straw under the spring pipe and over an aerator head. This helps prevent algae when it tries to bloom in the spring before the marginal plants get going. € Introduced 100 native golden shiner minnows. They eat mosquito larva and help keep the plants in check and don't seem to add to the nutrient load too much. They are doing very well and have multiplied. You can see the different sizes of minnows from broods from different years. € Applied one dose of algaecide (AlgaeFix) in early April if necessary to get a start in clearing the spring algae growth. € Added bacteria (Microbe-Lift Spring/Summer) in early April to help eliminate the dead algae and other organic matter. € Fertilized water lilies in early May with Once-A-Year Aquatic-Spikes from AgSafe (a div. of AgriTab Corp., Clearfield UT). They contain: Ureaform, Amoniam Phosphate, Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, Calcium Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Iron Sucrate, Magnesium Sucrate, Magnesium Sulfate, Manganese Sucrate, Manganese Sulfate, Zinc Sucrate, and Zinc Sulfate in a time release format. The are safe for fish and other aquatic life. The nitrogen in their formulation is 70% ammonium based and 30% nitrate based. No filter, no UV, no water pump, no Koi, no problem. I am in zone 6 and get a lot of hot weather in the summer and cold weather in the winter. For a view of our lily pond visit: http://home.dejazzd.com/shenning/pool8-18.jpg -- Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://rhodyman.net |
#5
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Question about an unusual pond set up
On Thu, 31 May 2007 09:27:57 CST, Stephen Henning wrote:
I have virtually the same thing. Mine is an old mortar and stone 18,000 gallon (17'x 47'x 2-4') swimming pool that is spring fed. We filled in the deep end so that it is 4' at the deepest. The pond fills in about 24 hours from the springs. The overflow goes into the storm drain which goes into a creek. For a view of our lily pond visit: http://home.dejazzd.com/shenning/pool8-18.jpg Neat. Is that the level you always keep it at, or is it low? Did you ever use it as a swimming pool at one time? ~ jan ------------ Zone 7a, SE Washington State Ponds: www.jjspond.us |
#6
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Question about an unusual pond set up
On May 31, 9:27 am, Stephen Henning wrote:
"Paul M." wrote: I have constructed a pond that does not recirculate water, but intercepts well water from a campus cooling system and runs it through the pond prior to flowing into the storm sewer. The water is cool and clear, but tends to warm up while it moves through the pond. Temp can be regulated by the rate of well water flow through the pond. I have virtually the same thing. Mine is an old mortar and stone 18,000 gallon (17'x 47'x 2-4') swimming pool that is spring fed. We filled in the deep end so that it is 4' at the deepest. The pond fills in about 24 hours from the springs. The overflow goes into the storm drain which goes into a creek. The spring water's temperature is 50 F. The pond's temperature gets up to 70 F by the middle of summer. When first filled with water, it quickly covered over with string algae. € Fertilized water lilies in early May with Once-A-Year Aquatic-Spikes from AgSafe (a div. of AgriTab Corp., Clearfield UT). They contain: Ureaform, Amoniam Phosphate, Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, Calcium Sulfate, Ferrous Sulfate, Iron Sucrate, Magnesium Sucrate, Magnesium Sulfate, Manganese Sucrate, Manganese Sulfate, Zinc Sucrate, and Zinc Sulfate in a time release format. The are safe for fish and other aquatic life. The nitrogen in their formulation is 70% ammonium based and 30% nitrate based. No filter, no UV, no water pump, no Koi, no problem. I am in zone 6 and get a lot of hot weather in the summer and cold weather in the winter. Nice! I suppose the constant flow of fresh water into the pond and the flow out of the pond helps to maintain it's eco balance. That we all could have a spring fed pond! Yeah!!!! :-))) Look forward to seeing more pictures... Dale |
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