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Koi Meds
I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize
the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#2
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Koi Meds
1. creating a pond for fish
2. water quality 3. watching behavior 4. signs of disease 1. a pond for fish is deep with no shelves so predators are discouraged. the pond is netting to keep leaves, predators and birds out. there is excellent filtration and aeration. and the design is simple so no dead spots where water doesnt move. 2. pristine water conditions are essential. keep rotting plants out of the pond, the kind that sink to the bottom. keep snails and other denizens out of the fish pond, they carry diseases. keep birds and bird shit out of the pond. net the pond. dont let birds bath in areas that drain into the pond. bird shit is loaded with disease. salt to 0.1% stimulates the slime coat and prevents disease. quarantine all new fish and plants for 1-2 months. in fact, dont add new fish at all to existing ponds. a closed system is healthier. change water routinely ... I think Steve (Jo Ann's husband) replaces 500 gallons out of the 6000 gallon pond once a week. clean the filters once a week. feed high quality foods. feed sparingly. dont stir up much in the pond. always check water parameters after rain storms. pH can drop in soft water ponds. 3. behavior. often fish show behavioral changes even before signs of disease. see behavior http://users.megapathdsl.net/~solo/p...se/disease.htm if ANY of the fish arent acting right start by checking water quality. all of them, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH and hardness. then do a water change and bring the salt up to 0.1%. check for rotting organics in the pond. 4. disease starts with a poor slime coat either caused by stress, toxic water, spawning or other mechanical damage, or parasites getting in and under. strengthening the slime coat, getting it to turn over prevents most diseases. however, if the slime coat is thick, AND there doesnt seem to be any water quality problems, then using a STOCK solution of PP every other day for 3 treatments. change some water every day. use a bit of peroxide to clear the pond after treatment. PP should not be used at very high temps or in very high pH/alkaline water. treat for parasites first, bacteria second. if there are definite problems like ulcers, feed romet B for 10 days to prevent spread of the infection. Use formalin/malachite green if there are symptoms of ich. dont use in cold water. dont use in water over 75o if there is more than 0.1% salt either. last summer I had 2 fish die. there wasnt a mark on them anywhere. slime coat was great. on necropsy I found infected eggs with the kind of bacteria carried by birds. that was when I netted my veggie filter in addition to the pond itself. It is very important to do a necropsy on dead fish to try to determine what the problem was. after this I fed romet B and didnt lose any more fish, not that I would have necessarily anyway. Ingrid ospam (GACinMass) wrote: Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. |
#3
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Koi Meds
How many koi do you have in 220 gal.????????
I have a small pond also and reading your post IMO with the fish load you have the changes in your water quality are so fast that any treatment is too little too late. With that many fish even a short power failure will kill all your fish. It happened to me with only 2 koi and some GF last year.(Of course the GF which started as feeders lived) IMO and I hope for your sake I'm wrong, all your problems are stress related and will continue until the load is reduced. Think of the bright side ......... It's time for a bigger pond. I wish I had the room. "GACinMass" wrote in message ... I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#4
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Koi Meds
How many koi do you have in 220 gal.????????
I have a small pond also and reading your post IMO with the fish load you have the changes in your water quality are so fast that any treatment is too little too late. With that many fish even a short power failure will kill all your fish. It happened to me with only 2 koi and some GF last year.(Of course the GF which started as feeders lived) IMO and I hope for your sake I'm wrong, all your problems are stress related and will continue until the load is reduced. Think of the bright side ......... It's time for a bigger pond. I wish I had the room. "GACinMass" wrote in message ... I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#5
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Koi Meds
Two parts to your question, I think. First your fish have just spawned.
This will cause them to knock off scales, and get all kinds of nicks and bruises. For this I would start with KoiZyme to prevent infection. Also, spawning creates a lot of ammonia and nitrites. Run the tests to see if you need to add AmQuel for the ammonia, or salt for the nitrites. The better the water the healthier the fish. Second, shotgun medicine. 1) unless you take the fish to the lab, the scrapings are worthless, since the parasites will die fairly quickly, and the easiest way to see them is if they are moving. 2) unless you can do above or have a microscope, you are left with the shotgun. That is where I was until this year. I use KoiZyme year round to try to prevent infection. I have had to give injections to too many fish. If I suspect parasites, I prefer to start treatments with salt, to 0.3%. It is effective against most of the parasites, not dangerous to you or the fish. Second to salt, I like PP, because it takes care of everything else. It is more dangerous, and dosage sensitive than the salt. Personally, I don't like the formalin treatments because like PP it is consumed by organic debris, and unlike PP, you can't see the color change to know that it is spent, so you don't know if you have used enough, and it doesn't take much too much to kill fish. -- RichToyBox http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html "GACinMass" wrote in message ... I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#6
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Koi Meds
Two parts to your question, I think. First your fish have just spawned.
This will cause them to knock off scales, and get all kinds of nicks and bruises. For this I would start with KoiZyme to prevent infection. Also, spawning creates a lot of ammonia and nitrites. Run the tests to see if you need to add AmQuel for the ammonia, or salt for the nitrites. The better the water the healthier the fish. Second, shotgun medicine. 1) unless you take the fish to the lab, the scrapings are worthless, since the parasites will die fairly quickly, and the easiest way to see them is if they are moving. 2) unless you can do above or have a microscope, you are left with the shotgun. That is where I was until this year. I use KoiZyme year round to try to prevent infection. I have had to give injections to too many fish. If I suspect parasites, I prefer to start treatments with salt, to 0.3%. It is effective against most of the parasites, not dangerous to you or the fish. Second to salt, I like PP, because it takes care of everything else. It is more dangerous, and dosage sensitive than the salt. Personally, I don't like the formalin treatments because like PP it is consumed by organic debris, and unlike PP, you can't see the color change to know that it is spent, so you don't know if you have used enough, and it doesn't take much too much to kill fish. -- RichToyBox http://www.geocities.com/richtoybox/pondintro.html "GACinMass" wrote in message ... I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#7
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Koi Meds
Good for You Hank! You are the only one so far who has caught
the fact that Gary's pond is only *220* gallons. I'm surprised Ingrid and Rich missed this. Way too small for Koi. Unless he typed it wrong? Nedra http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 http://community.webshots.com/user/nedra118 "Hank Pagel" wrote in message .. . How many koi do you have in 220 gal.???????? I have a small pond also and reading your post IMO with the fish load you have the changes in your water quality are so fast that any treatment is too little too late. With that many fish even a short power failure will kill all your fish. It happened to me with only 2 koi and some GF last year.(Of course the GF which started as feeders lived) IMO and I hope for your sake I'm wrong, all your problems are stress related and will continue until the load is reduced. Think of the bright side ......... It's time for a bigger pond. I wish I had the room. "GACinMass" wrote in message ... I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#8
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Koi Meds
Good for You Hank! You are the only one so far who has caught
the fact that Gary's pond is only *220* gallons. I'm surprised Ingrid and Rich missed this. Way too small for Koi. Unless he typed it wrong? Nedra http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 http://community.webshots.com/user/nedra118 "Hank Pagel" wrote in message .. . How many koi do you have in 220 gal.???????? I have a small pond also and reading your post IMO with the fish load you have the changes in your water quality are so fast that any treatment is too little too late. With that many fish even a short power failure will kill all your fish. It happened to me with only 2 koi and some GF last year.(Of course the GF which started as feeders lived) IMO and I hope for your sake I'm wrong, all your problems are stress related and will continue until the load is reduced. Think of the bright side ......... It's time for a bigger pond. I wish I had the room. "GACinMass" wrote in message ... I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#9
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Koi Meds
But Nedra, he didn't ask if his pond was too small in his questions. ;o)
Gary, You've gotten some good advice, but I'll give my 2 cents. Many Koi Clubs around the country now have trained KHAs (Koi Health Advisors) they will come to your home, microscope in hand and help, free! So you might want to check your area on the AKCA.org website and find your closest club and if they have trained KHAs. I don't follow the *I can't catch them* story. I get IN my 6'X13' pond full of plants and herd my fish into a big black 24" diameter plastic planter pot. Then I bag them from there. So get a big tub and herd them, don't try to net them. My drugs of choice for shot-gunning are those that won't destroy the filter. Lymnozyme, or Koizyme (I guess they're calling it now). Romet B feed or other medicated feeds. Salt. For flukes, malathion. Dimalin for anchor worm or lice, neither it or malathion ruin the bio-filter. I just went thru a malathion treatment in both ponds and sick tank, last one today. Sick tank is salted over 0.3% and I'm treating the fish in there with a product called Tricide-Neo. Fish was scraped before treatment and only one fluke showed up. I don't think flukes though caused the initial damage, I think it was injury and not getting my filter, salt & lymnozyme either up to snuff or in the pond early enough because I was adjusting to going back to work this spring when one should be keeping a close eye on pond things. The jury is out on whether I'll save this fish or not. My main goal is the experience of doing in (I took the KHA class), but there's no experience like doing it! So I am. Would be nice if the fish survives me, and my treatment, but I've seen better looking dead carp on the beach.s ~ jan See my ponds and filter design: http://users.owt.com/jjspond/ ~Keep 'em Wet!~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a To e-mail see website 1st and foremost check your water quality. I've reposted the sick fish/sick pond form, fill it out. ~ jan On 15 Jul 2003 13:50:20 GMT, ospam (GACinMass) wrote: I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#10
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Koi Meds
Since when do we ask if 220 gallons is too small for Koi?
That would appear to be a given. Any problems would stem from that fact. Nedra http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Pines/4836 http://community.webshots.com/user/nedra118 "~ jan JJsPond.us" wrote in message ... But Nedra, he didn't ask if his pond was too small in his questions. ;o) Gary, You've gotten some good advice, but I'll give my 2 cents. Many Koi Clubs around the country now have trained KHAs (Koi Health Advisors) they will come to your home, microscope in hand and help, free! So you might want to check your area on the AKCA.org website and find your closest club and if they have trained KHAs. I don't follow the *I can't catch them* story. I get IN my 6'X13' pond full of plants and herd my fish into a big black 24" diameter plastic planter pot. Then I bag them from there. So get a big tub and herd them, don't try to net them. My drugs of choice for shot-gunning are those that won't destroy the filter. Lymnozyme, or Koizyme (I guess they're calling it now). Romet B feed or other medicated feeds. Salt. For flukes, malathion. Dimalin for anchor worm or lice, neither it or malathion ruin the bio-filter. I just went thru a malathion treatment in both ponds and sick tank, last one today. Sick tank is salted over 0.3% and I'm treating the fish in there with a product called Tricide-Neo. Fish was scraped before treatment and only one fluke showed up. I don't think flukes though caused the initial damage, I think it was injury and not getting my filter, salt & lymnozyme either up to snuff or in the pond early enough because I was adjusting to going back to work this spring when one should be keeping a close eye on pond things. The jury is out on whether I'll save this fish or not. My main goal is the experience of doing in (I took the KHA class), but there's no experience like doing it! So I am. Would be nice if the fish survives me, and my treatment, but I've seen better looking dead carp on the beach.s ~ jan See my ponds and filter design: http://users.owt.com/jjspond/ ~Keep 'em Wet!~ Tri-Cities WA Zone 7a To e-mail see website 1st and foremost check your water quality. I've reposted the sick fish/sick pond form, fill it out. ~ jan On 15 Jul 2003 13:50:20 GMT, ospam (GACinMass) wrote: I've read several books on koi diseases, parasites, etc. All of them emphasize the importance of sending scrapings/samples to a lab or having a microscope in order to properly identify the culprit and determine the appropriate course of treatment. OK, time for a reality check: First, the only way I have ever been able to net a koi in my pond is to nearly drain it. This stresses the fish so much that I will not do it again. In fact, the last time I did this, for a full year afterward they would run & hide when they saw anyone at the pond's edge. So I will not be able to get a scraping or sample of any kind. Second, I do not have a microscope or a lab nearby so I'm forced to guess what the affliction is and what treatment to start. I tend to start with Potassium Permanganate, treating the entire 220 gal pond. If I don't see improvement, I try Formalin. If that doesn't work I try Limnozyme. I know this is a wasteful "shotgun" approach but it has worked somewhat. Last year I lost 2 koi to some kind of ulcer/fungus thing before I was able to get it under control. Here's my question: If you can only guess at what the ailment is, how would you treat it? What meds in what order? Is PP the best place to start? My fish have just been through a spawning episode and several are now showing whitish bumps on their fins. One has skinned his nose pretty seriously. I started the PP yesterday and have my fingers crossed. Any advice would be much appreciated. ~ Gary Zone 6b |
#11
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Koi Meds
"Nedra" wrote in message
link.net... Since when do we ask if 220 gallons is too small for Koi? That would appear to be a given. Any problems would stem from that fact. snip Nedra...I agree that a small body of water is typically bad for an overstock of fish, but in theory with proper filtration, 220 could support his fish, right? BV. |
#12
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Koi Meds
"Nedra" wrote in message
link.net... LOL! Oh My my my .... okay I guess if his filtration is top notch, etc etc .... But, BV ... this just shoots in the bu** our (rec.ponds) most recent theory that we need 1,000 gallons of water for the first Koi and 100 gallons for every Koi after that. I don't remember seeing any conditions tagged onto that theory .... snip True, true, an don't get me wrong. I am not about to toss 3 or 4 Koi in my bathtub. I just wanted to make the point that the "rules" we all talk about here, are based on laws of averages. Sorry, I am kind of anal about stuff like this. I don't like rules that say, "Do this..." just because. Reminds me of a story... One Easter my Dad was cooking a ham and he cut it in half before placing it in the oven. I inquired as to why he did this. He responded, "I dunno, that's the way my mother did it." So I asked my grandmother about cutting the ham in half, and she said, "That's how my mother taught me to do it. I've always done it that way." I then asked my great-grandmother about the recipe and she told me, "Cut it in half? Oh, that's because I don't have a pan big enough for the whole ham." So you see why I question salt too? *laugh* BV. |
#13
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Koi Meds
Thanks to all of you for sharing your valuable insight. I feel more confident
than ever. BTW, my pond is 2200 gallons, not 220 as I mistyped. In fact, it is 2200 gal plus a 50' long stream which includes 5 smaller pools. When I build the system I over designed the filtration in anticipation of my koi growing (I have 9 that range from 4" to 12"). I also have UV, a skimmer, bottom drain, and lots of plants. I test my water every other week and it is always near perfect except for salt levels that change with my bi-weekly partial water changes. The water is always crystal clear. I'm on day 2 of my PP treatment. Fingers still crossed! Thanks again, group, Gary |
#14
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Koi Meds
How many koi do you have in 220 gal.????????
Sorry, I meant 2200 gallons. I've got to start proofreading my posts! ~ Gary |
#15
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Koi Meds
"Nedra" wrote in message
link.net... LOL! Oh My my my .... okay I guess if his filtration is top notch, etc etc .... But, BV ... this just shoots in the bu** our (rec.ponds) most recent theory that we need 1,000 gallons of water for the first Koi and 100 gallons for every Koi after that. I don't remember seeing any conditions tagged onto that theory .... snip True, true, an don't get me wrong. I am not about to toss 3 or 4 Koi in my bathtub. I just wanted to make the point that the "rules" we all talk about here, are based on laws of averages. Sorry, I am kind of anal about stuff like this. I don't like rules that say, "Do this..." just because. Reminds me of a story... One Easter my Dad was cooking a ham and he cut it in half before placing it in the oven. I inquired as to why he did this. He responded, "I dunno, that's the way my mother did it." So I asked my grandmother about cutting the ham in half, and she said, "That's how my mother taught me to do it. I've always done it that way." I then asked my great-grandmother about the recipe and she told me, "Cut it in half? Oh, that's because I don't have a pan big enough for the whole ham." So you see why I question salt too? *laugh* BV. |
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