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  #1   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 01:14 AM
Mickey
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or keep it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can sometimes be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond, this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO



  #2   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 04:36 AM
Kodiak
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

Would it be unreasonable to have a pond in Zone 4a or 4b
and expect fish to survive in winter? I live in Montreal Canada,
my feeling is I need a pond at least 4ft deep. Is there info or a table that
suggests what depth your pond should be depending on the zone your in?
....Kodiak


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for

reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or keep it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can sometimes be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond, this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO





  #3   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 02:02 PM
Mickey
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

You can contact people such a local builder and find out what you frost line
is. I live in Minnesota 45 minutes west of Minneapolis/St.Paul my depth just
to get under the frost line is 48". I would assume you would want to go
deeper for warmer bottom water.
"Kodiak" wrote in message
...
Would it be unreasonable to have a pond in Zone 4a or 4b
and expect fish to survive in winter? I live in Montreal Canada,
my feeling is I need a pond at least 4ft deep. Is there info or a table

that
suggests what depth your pond should be depending on the zone your in?
...Kodiak


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for

reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or keep

it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can sometimes

be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is

making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump

running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no

problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of

Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from

the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond, this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local

wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO







  #4   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 03:03 PM
dhponder
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

I am in S.E. Idaho/zone4 and have overwintered Koi and Goldfish
successfully for three winters, in a 1600 gallon, 2 1/2 ft. deep pond,
using two airstones 3 or 4" below the surface. I have a large, clay
chimney tile on the bottom for a winter home, but have no idea if they
use it.

deanna

Kodiak wrote:
Would it be unreasonable to have a pond in Zone 4a or 4b
and expect fish to survive in winter? I live in Montreal Canada,
my feeling is I need a pond at least 4ft deep. Is there info or a table that
suggests what depth your pond should be depending on the zone your in?
...Kodiak


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for

reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or keep it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can sometimes be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond, this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO






  #5   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 03:42 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

It isnt JUST keeping the water liquid and aeration to put in oxygen, and a hole to
let toxic gases out... it is how long those fish are going to go without food because
the water is less than 55oF. that is why some way of covering the pond so it stays
warm later in fall and warms up earlier in spring is important. not to mention more
energy efficient than running 1500 watt heaters. Ingrid


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.


  #6   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 05:12 PM
Janet & Hugh
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

Nope.... he is indeed in zone 5 in Mississauga, ON which is in the Greater
Toronto area.
Janet in Niagara Falls, ON Z6b


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for

reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or keep it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can sometimes be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond, this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO





---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (
http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 9/1/03


  #7   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 05:12 PM
Janet & Hugh
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

Kodiak you can indded overwinter fish. We have been doing it in zone 6b in
2.5 feet of water by keeping a hole in the ice. I would think you can do it
in less than 4 feet of water as long as you keep a hole in the ice for
gasses to escape. )
Janet in Niagara Falls, ON


"Kodiak" wrote in message
...
Would it be unreasonable to have a pond in Zone 4a or 4b
and expect fish to survive in winter? I live in Montreal Canada,
my feeling is I need a pond at least 4ft deep. Is there info or a table

that
suggests what depth your pond should be depending on the zone your in?
...Kodiak


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for

reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or keep

it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can sometimes

be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is

making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump

running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no

problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of

Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from

the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond, this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local

wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO







---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (
http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 9/1/03


  #8   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 06:12 PM
Axolotl
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

"Janet & Hugh" wrote in
:

Nope.... he is indeed in zone 5 in Mississauga, ON which is in the
Greater Toronto area.
Janet in Niagara Falls, ON Z6b


Thank you, I thought I was. However, I could not find a reference that was
not graphic. My wife took a look but she hates working with a computer and
was not certain that she had it right. As I am do not see colour as others
do my monitor is probably way off and she thought we might be in zone 1 or
8.

I will have to get somebody with good CV to come in and adjust my monitor.

Again thanks
AXO
  #9   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 06:42 PM
Kodiak
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

Hi Ingrid,
If I cover the pond, say with a sheet of plywood, leave a small opening on
the end,
as long as there's good aeration is that OK?

Assume I'm in zone 4b, that is -20 to -25 minimum average, the pond is
10ftx4ftx4ft or approx. 1200gal.
What kind of aeration is optimal. how many cc's for air pump, and how many
airstones or other
system?

Some people suggest shutting down their water pump/filtration, others say
leave it on
as long as it dosen't freeze or water dosen't get diverted. Which is right?
Many thanks for info...
....Kodiak

wrote in message
...
It isnt JUST keeping the water liquid and aeration to put in oxygen, and a

hole to
let toxic gases out... it is how long those fish are going to go without

food because
the water is less than 55oF. that is why some way of covering the pond so

it stays
warm later in fall and warms up earlier in spring is important. not to

mention more
energy efficient than running 1500 watt heaters. Ingrid


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.



  #10   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 06:42 PM
Kodiak
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

Do you suffer any losses, and is your filtration running?
How big CC's is the airpump?
....Kodiak

"dhponder" wrote in message
...
I am in S.E. Idaho/zone4 and have overwintered Koi and Goldfish
successfully for three winters, in a 1600 gallon, 2 1/2 ft. deep pond,
using two airstones 3 or 4" below the surface. I have a large, clay
chimney tile on the bottom for a winter home, but have no idea if they
use it.

deanna

Kodiak wrote:
Would it be unreasonable to have a pond in Zone 4a or 4b
and expect fish to survive in winter? I live in Montreal Canada,
my feeling is I need a pond at least 4ft deep. Is there info or a table

that
suggests what depth your pond should be depending on the zone your in?
...Kodiak


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for

reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or keep

it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a

winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can sometimes

be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is

making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight

on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump

running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no

problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use

to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of

Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from

the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond, this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local

wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO










  #11   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 06:42 PM
Kodiak
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

Quite a bit warmer in Niagara than Montreal though...
But someone in SE Idaho Zone 4 says yes with only 2.5ft deep.
Hard to believe... I'm still not convinced...
....Kodiak.

"Janet & Hugh" wrote in message
news
Kodiak you can indded overwinter fish. We have been doing it in zone 6b in
2.5 feet of water by keeping a hole in the ice. I would think you can do
it
in less than 4 feet of water as long as you keep a hole in the ice for
gasses to escape. )
Janet in Niagara Falls, ON


"Kodiak" wrote in message
...
Would it be unreasonable to have a pond in Zone 4a or 4b
and expect fish to survive in winter? I live in Montreal Canada,
my feeling is I need a pond at least 4ft deep. Is there info or a table

that
suggests what depth your pond should be depending on the zone your in?
...Kodiak


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for

reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or

keep
it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't

be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a

winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can

sometimes
be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement

from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is

making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight

on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump

running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no

problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use

to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of

Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from

the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond,

this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local

wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump

died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO







---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (
http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 9/1/03




  #12   Report Post  
Old 06-09-2003, 09:02 PM
dhponder
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

No losses at all. Waterfall and filters are both turned off and the
airpump is just a standard acquarium, 2-outlet airpump. I put it into a
plastic container with holes drilled for the 2 air hoses and a notch for
the electric cord. Placed close to and about 1 foot above the pond.

deanna

Kodiak wrote:
Do you suffer any losses, and is your filtration running?
How big CC's is the airpump?
...Kodiak

"dhponder" wrote in message
...
I am in S.E. Idaho/zone4 and have overwintered Koi and Goldfish
successfully for three winters, in a 1600 gallon, 2 1/2 ft. deep pond,
using two airstones 3 or 4" below the surface. I have a large, clay
chimney tile on the bottom for a winter home, but have no idea if they
use it.

deanna

Kodiak wrote:
Would it be unreasonable to have a pond in Zone 4a or 4b
and expect fish to survive in winter? I live in Montreal Canada,
my feeling is I need a pond at least 4ft deep. Is there info or a table

that
suggests what depth your pond should be depending on the zone your in?
...Kodiak


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for
reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or keep

it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a

winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can sometimes

be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is

making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight

on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump

running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no

problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use

to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of

Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from

the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond, this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local

wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO









  #13   Report Post  
Old 07-09-2003, 02:22 PM
Ian
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

Absolutely can do it.

I live in Brampton, part of Toronto, and over-wintered my goldfish in my
pond, which is about 7x6, probably 24" deep, and all I used was a 100 watt
circular de-icer.

Last winter was brutal, but surprising to me, and most of my friends, was
that the ice on the pond never got thicker than 6"(I am guessing!) It
doesn't make sense considering we had a cold winter, but I swear it was so.
My 100 watt de-icer always kept a hole in the pond(a couple of times ice
built up in the hole in the de-icer, after snow falls or freezing rain, but
I cleaned it out.)

I had 11 2" goldfish, and 1 died in the spring, so I think I came out pretty
well.

I initially had picked up one of those 1500 watt de-icers, but on my way to
the cashier, someone stopped me and said that this would kill my hydro bill,
and that they had used the 100 watt de-icer without problem in Toronto.

This year, I am thinking of adding an air stone too. I have 2 4-5" koi,
figured a little more support might not hurt.


"Janet & Hugh" wrote in message
news
Kodiak you can indded overwinter fish. We have been doing it in zone 6b in
2.5 feet of water by keeping a hole in the ice. I would think you can do
it
in less than 4 feet of water as long as you keep a hole in the ice for
gasses to escape. )
Janet in Niagara Falls, ON


"Kodiak" wrote in message
...
Would it be unreasonable to have a pond in Zone 4a or 4b
and expect fish to survive in winter? I live in Montreal Canada,
my feeling is I need a pond at least 4ft deep. Is there info or a table

that
suggests what depth your pond should be depending on the zone your in?
...Kodiak


"Mickey" wrote in message
...
If you are talking Canada you are closer to a zone 2. Zone 5 is going
through the center of the USA. Here is a link with a few names for

reference

http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hrdzon3.html

"Axolotl" wrote in message
. 130...
ESPMER (K30a) wrote in
:

Scott wrote Should I disconnect my filter for the winter, or

keep
it
running?
I was
planning to keep it, until I read the statement above.

You'll find a lot of people do different things ;-)

The bio bugs won't be 'working' in cold water and the fish won't

be
producing much, if any, waste so there is no need to filter a

winter
pond. Everybody kind of goes into a stupor for the winter.

Keeping water running, as in a waterfall or fountain, can

sometimes
be
dicey. If things start to freeze sometimes the water can freeze in
such a way as to direct water away from the pond. More so in a
waterfall than a fountain.

Another theory to keep the pump off is that the water movement

from
the pump to the fountain or waterfall, there and back again, is

making
a current for the fish to swim against when they'd rather just lay
there, slowly finning their fins. Water movement makes them work
harder and use up energy they'd rather put to keeping some weight

on
them over the winter.

But, all that said, there are rec.ponders who keep their pump

running
and their waterfall going all winter. And all goes well, no

problems.

Hi there, nice to see you back K30a.

I am not sure what zone I am in, Colour coded maps are not much use

to
somebody whose colour blind. I am in Mississauga, just west of

Toronto,
so I think I am in zone 5 (5a). In the past I have disconnected from

the
waterfalls and redirected the flow to a standpipe over the pond,

this
keeps an opening in the ice, adds oxygen and provides the local

wildlife
a source of water in the winter.
However, I wonder if this is the best approach, I keep seeing people
recommending a bubbler, I tried this one winter but the air pump

died
within 2 weeks. What depth should the air-stone be set to?

TIA
AXO







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  #14   Report Post  
Old 07-09-2003, 04:42 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default wintering link to zones with names

yes. that should work as long as the opening is large enough for you to SEE what is
going on. I would suggest a small pump placed no more than 1 foot down, blowing
water gently at the surface (gotta experiment with cutting the tubing to get this
effect-- the tubing should NOT be at the surface!!).. cause from my own experience,
when electricity goes out, the water freezes in the air pump hoses almost instantly I
had to use a cordless drill and 1.5 inch spade bit to drill a new hole, pull off the
frozen hose, put on new hose and airstone and drop it in. the entire tubing of the
water pump should be below the surface so water will not freeze in it. that way it
will open an air hole if the electricity is off for more than a little while.
any kind of cheap double outlet air pump with big airstones will do it. the air
stones are not dropped very deep, no more than 6 inches.
if the filtration sits in the pond, it is fine, if outside it will lead to over
cooling of the water in the pond and will eventually freeze up. the biobugs are shut
down anyway, I drop my regular pump into a 5 gallon bucket stuffed with that green
mosquito netting to filter and suck up the algae and other detritus keep the water
clear. even tho the pond is 1.5 feet above the ground, there is no ice at all on my
pond in winter. a small greenhouse does help solar gain. Ingrid

"Kodiak" wrote:

Hi Ingrid,
If I cover the pond, say with a sheet of plywood, leave a small opening on
the end,
as long as there's good aeration is that OK?

Assume I'm in zone 4b, that is -20 to -25 minimum average, the pond is
10ftx4ftx4ft or approx. 1200gal.
What kind of aeration is optimal. how many cc's for air pump, and how many
airstones or other
system?

Some people suggest shutting down their water pump/filtration, others say
leave it on
as long as it dosen't freeze or water dosen't get diverted. Which is right?
Many thanks for info...
...Kodiak

wrote in message
...
It isnt JUST keeping the water liquid and aeration to put in oxygen, and a

hole to
let toxic gases out... it is how long those fish are going to go without

food because
the water is less than 55oF. that is why some way of covering the pond so

it stays
warm later in fall and warms up earlier in spring is important. not to

mention more
energy efficient than running 1500 watt heaters. Ingrid


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.





~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List
http://puregold.aquaria.net/
www.drsolo.com
Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other
compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the
endorsements or recommendations I make.
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