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!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"
html Is there a filter for that pond? Which type is it? pA HREF="http://la.znet.com/~seannydinh/"http://la.znet.com/~seannydinh//A pMy lovely green water went away a week after installing a bigger TT filter. pebruvold wrote: blockquote TYPE=CITEOK.... pLive in San Diego. Had a pond installed last September. About a 3 brfoot rise waterfall into a pond of about 800-1000 gallons. Installed brby local contractor. Gave us Koi (6) and some water lillies plus br"Aquascape Designs String Algea Buster (SAB)" and "Aquascape Design brAquaclear" pFollowed all directions rigorously in respect to bacteria, cleaning, bretc. But as you may have heard, southern california had more rain than brwe have had in the last 100 years. So a fair amount of run off into brthe pond and outright rain. Had to pump out water on numerous broccasions and other times simply let it overflow in to landscape. pWith warmer weather planted some more lilles and some marginals. brLillies going well. I have about 10-15% surface area covered and more brpads every day. I do not have any "bottom plants" but strongly brconsidering adding them. pHOWEVER, I have a serious string and single cell (green water) algae brproblem that is driving me to frustration. pBeen spiking (triple the dose every day) my pond with both "clear" brbacteria and SAB. Hand cleaning out every day the string algae that is breasy to get out and actually pulling some off from individual rocks. pBut not sure it is helping! Or at least I can not noticeably see a brdifference. Is my only hope to drain the pond and start over? Should brI have patience with the product I am using? Should I try something brdifferent (there seem to be a huge number of different concoctions out brthere - any objective reviews?)/blockquote /html |
#2
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More information seems in order.
The filter is an Aquascape "BIOFALLS" filter. The contractor who put it in suggested not to clean that often as it would kill off the benefial bacteria. I believe the recommendation was to change out the filter once a year. It looks generally clean (or at least not clogged and too soiled). The pond gets a LOT of morning shade and then afternoon and evening sun. I am using supposedly beneficial bacteria - the Aquascape Clear bacteria plus SAB enyme. I haven't tried (but thinking) Barley (which as I understand it I can place either in the pond or in the water course. I am tyring to get the lillies to cover at least 60% of pond. What I am trying to figure out is how to make sense of ALL the products out on the market. There seem to be scores of different "bacteria" products. Are there any reviews???? Woudl just like to see the bottom of my pond at some point ;-) |
#3
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"ebruvold" wrote in message oups.com... More information seems in order. The filter is an Aquascape "BIOFALLS" filter. The contractor who put it in suggested not to clean that often as it would kill off the benefial bacteria. I believe the recommendation was to change out the filter once a year. It looks generally clean (or at least not clogged and too soiled). The pond gets a LOT of morning shade and then afternoon and evening sun. I am using supposedly beneficial bacteria - the Aquascape Clear bacteria plus SAB enyme. I haven't tried (but thinking) Barley (which as I understand it I can place either in the pond or in the water course. I am tyring to get the lillies to cover at least 60% of pond. What I am trying to figure out is how to make sense of ALL the products out on the market. There seem to be scores of different "bacteria" products. Are there any reviews???? Woudl just like to see the bottom of my pond at some point ;-) As advertized, your filter will not eliminate string algae. You should read these articles about filtration: http://www.practical-water-gardens.com/bioch0101.htm http://www.worldofwater.com/filtration.htm http://www.bestfish.com/sprngpnd.html http://www.hoerrnursery.com/GardenIn...tionBasics.cfm http://www.ponddoc.com/Topics/Filtration.htm And about the beneficial bacteria, if you are using it, have some patience. These guys take a while (usually about a month) to get firmly established in your pond. |
#4
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It is possible to have a clear pond without using any chemicals
at all. (which is a relief for those of us whose brains freeze at '1 teaspoon per gallon') Our ponds are nutrient heavy. We have WAY too many fish in our ponds than Mother Nature recommends. Like the other posters recommended higher order plants are the way to use up the extra nutrients. Ways to cut down on nutrients is to cull the fish population, stop feeding the fish as much and use a filter to screen and convert fish waste. Fresh water is a nutrient for algae and you've had more than your share of fresh water this year. There isn't much you can do about that. Algae and string algae are very efficent at growing when the higher order plants are still waking up. Spring is usually a time when ponds will suffer an algae bloom. I use watercress in the spring to get ahead of the algae. I place stems of it (from the grocery store) under a rock (one stem to a rock) in my waterfall. The stuff loves fast running, cool water. It spreads but the roots are shallow and brittle and it is very easy to rip up. I have watercress that wintered over, frozen in the ice, that is growing like crazy right now and the only other plant growth out there is two inch high iris. The problem with algaecides is that they make lots of suddenly dead algae which feeds the next algae bloom. Your pond isn't old enough to need cleaning yet, but dead plant matter, fish waste, mulm, muck and crud are also good food for algae. And finally sun. Floating plants will shade the water, like lily pads. Water hyacinth are good floaters in that they reproduce like crazy. In zone 7, where we are, they don't survive the winter so have to be taken out as with their demise they will turn into decaying plants (more algae food). Patience is always helpful. Frustrating, but helpful. It takes a while to get to know your system and how to manage it. good luck! kathy :-) |
#5
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ebruvold wrote:
The filter is an Aquascape "BIOFALLS" filter. The contractor who put it in suggested not to clean that often as it would kill off the benefial bacteria. I believe the recommendation was to change out the filter once a year. It looks generally clean (or at least not clogged and too soiled). Note how "Biofalls" and "Contractor" appear so close together... I'm not much of a fan of contractor-based solutions. Biofalls just seem to me to be another way to separate recreational ponders from large amounts of money. I am using supposedly beneficial bacteria - the Aquascape Clear bacteria plus SAB enyme. I haven't tried (but thinking) Barley (which as I understand it I can place either in the pond or in the water course. I am tyring to get the lillies to cover at least 60% of pond. .... Woudl just like to see the bottom of my pond at some point ;-) Frankly, short of a UV treatment system, I doubt you'll ever see the bottom - and it's not something I'd aim for. It's unnatural, and it limits the hiding places for fish. Being able to see a couple of feet into the pond is good enough for me. -- derek |
#6
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"Derek Broughton" wrote in message ... ebruvold wrote: The filter is an Aquascape "BIOFALLS" filter. The contractor who put it in suggested not to clean that often as it would kill off the benefial bacteria. I believe the recommendation was to change out the filter once a year. It looks generally clean (or at least not clogged and too soiled). Note how "Biofalls" and "Contractor" appear so close together... I'm not much of a fan of contractor-based solutions. Biofalls just seem to me to be another way to separate recreational ponders from large amounts of money. I am using supposedly beneficial bacteria - the Aquascape Clear bacteria plus SAB enyme. I haven't tried (but thinking) Barley (which as I understand it I can place either in the pond or in the water course. I am tyring to get the lillies to cover at least 60% of pond. ... Woudl just like to see the bottom of my pond at some point ;-) Frankly, short of a UV treatment system, I doubt you'll ever see the bottom - and it's not something I'd aim for. It's unnatural, and it limits the hiding places for fish. Being able to see a couple of feet into the pond is good enough for me. -- derek Hmmm. I've never used UV and I've always been able to see the bottom of my pond (45" deep). If I use a UV filter, will I be able to see 'past' the bottom? lol |
#7
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I use a veggie filter and can always see the bottom of mine also. My
pond is 3 foot deep. Oh by the way this is rebeljoe on someone elses box. |
#8
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George wrote:
Hmmm. I've never used UV and I've always been able to see the bottom of my pond (45" deep). If I use a UV filter, will I be able to see 'past' the bottom? lol Perhaps :-) I don't believe in UV either, but I have never expected to see the bottom of my pond (about the same depth, perhaps a little more). I can see it just fine in the early spring, and occasionally in the summer, but algae's a normal part of a pond. It doesn't bother me. -- derek |
#9
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!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en"
html I've been to Aquascape site, yet couldn't find any information regarding what went inside the biofall. If you worry about killing the beneficial bacteria, try cleaning half of the filter. Then clean the other half 2 weeks later. The other option is to stop feeding the fish, and clean the filter now. Resume feeding 2 weeks later. pMy pond had a lot of plants, yet it had pea soup water. It cleared once my better filter started to function. I had those same green water in an outdoor aquarium. It remained green until I put in some Water Hyacinth. Plants alone did not clear the water, the same could be said about filter. pDon't feel too bad. People with superior filters still have problem with pea soup. They still need to resort to using UV filter to remove it. If you want a quick solution, get one installed. pAs for bacteria products, I have no idea. I've never used them. pebruvold wrote: blockquote TYPE=CITEMore information seems in order. pThe filter is an Aquascape "BIOFALLS" filter. The contractor who put brit in suggested not to clean that often as it would kill off the brbenefial bacteria. I believe the recommendation was to change out the brfilter once a year. It looks generally clean (or at least not clogged brand too soiled). pThe pond gets a LOT of morning shade and then afternoon and evening brsun. pI am using supposedly beneficial bacteria - the Aquascape Clear brbacteria plus SAB enyme. I haven't tried (but thinking) Barley (which bras I understand it I can place either in the pond or in the water brcourse. I am tyring to get the lillies to cover at least 60% of pond. brWhat I am trying to figure out is how to make sense of ALL the products brout on the market. There seem to be scores of different "bacteria" brproducts. Are there any reviews???? pWoudl just like to see the bottom of my pond at some point ;-)/blockquote /html |
#10
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ebruvold wrote:
The filter is an Aquascape "BIOFALLS" filter. The contractor who put it in suggested not to clean that often as it would kill off the benefial bacteria. I believe the recommendation was to change out the filter once a year. It looks generally clean (or at least not clogged and too soiled). Note how "Biofalls" and "Contractor" appear so close together... I'm not much of a fan of contractor-based solutions. Biofalls just seem to me to be another way to separate recreational ponders from large amounts of money. I am using supposedly beneficial bacteria - the Aquascape Clear bacteria plus SAB enyme. I haven't tried (but thinking) Barley (which as I understand it I can place either in the pond or in the water course. I am tyring to get the lillies to cover at least 60% of pond. .... Woudl just like to see the bottom of my pond at some point ;-) Frankly, short of a UV treatment system, I doubt you'll ever see the bottom - and it's not something I'd aim for. It's unnatural, and it limits the hiding places for fish. Being able to see a couple of feet into the pond is good enough for me. -- derek |
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