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#1
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Grafted Vs Own-Root Toughness. Now the Fight is on!
It's been very cold here in Michigan for the passed couple of weeks, Often
25 below Fahrenheit with wind chill. I've provided my roses with the typical protection for this area (a covering of compost around the base) and put up a bit of a wind screen. Most years this is all we need, and my loss rate has been low (2% to 5% of my population, or 2 to 10 roses). Of those, I usually lose a few more grafted plants than own-root, but it's not consistent. (I currently have about 60/40 split of own-root to graft.) This year should be the test. The lows this year have been more like zone 4a rather than 5b. (Actually, in the Detroit area, we are often more like 6a or 6b). I'm going to keep a close eye on who takes a bigger hit. Of course, the big argument is, who's tougher, own-root or graft? J and P and other mass-production suppliers will clam they graft to improve hardiness, although I wonder if it's really just to bring them to market faster. (Own-root takes about three years to a grade 1, grafted are about 2 years). Own-rooter's say this type tolerates die-back better as there is no change of "getting Huey'd". (Dr. Huey is a very common graft stock for roses, and when they go wild, that's what we get!) Of course, own-root is much easier to do, especially in small product operations. So now the fight is on. Who will prove to be the hardier? Stay tuned, this should be good. Best regards, Jeff Southeast Michigan, Zone 5 (or at least we used to be) |
#2
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Grafted Vs Own-Root Toughness. Now the Fight is on!
"Jeffrey L. Kline" wrote in message
... It's been very cold here in Michigan for the passed couple of weeks, Often 25 below Fahrenheit with wind chill. I've provided my roses with the typical protection for this area (a covering of compost around the base) and put up a bit of a wind screen. Most years this is all we need, and my loss rate has been low (2% to 5% of my population, or 2 to 10 roses). Of those, I usually lose a few more grafted plants than own-root, but it's not consistent. (I currently have about 60/40 split of own-root to graft.) This year should be the test. The lows this year have been more like zone 4a rather than 5b. (Actually, in the Detroit area, we are often more like 6a or 6b). I'm going to keep a close eye on who takes a bigger hit. Of course, the big argument is, who's tougher, own-root or graft? J and P and other mass-production suppliers will clam they graft to improve hardiness, although I wonder if it's really just to bring them to market faster. (Own-root takes about three years to a grade 1, grafted are about 2 years). Own-rooter's say this type tolerates die-back better as there is no change of "getting Huey'd". (Dr. Huey is a very common graft stock for roses, and when they go wild, that's what we get!) Of course, own-root is much easier to do, especially in small product operations. So now the fight is on. Who will prove to be the hardier? Stay tuned, this should be good. Best regards, Jeff Southeast Michigan, Zone 5 (or at least we used to be) I look forward to your report. I have both kinds but haven't noticed any trend for hardiness. Usually when I bought own roots it was because that was how the particular variety was made available. Early in my rose gardening experience I lost a number of grafted roses, one batch to a late winter freeze, another batch to excessive summer heat & drought (when I didn't know to water every other day!). But at that time I was only buying grafted roses, minis and old garden roses excluded, of course. Gail near San Antonio TX Zone 8 USA |
#3
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Grafted Vs Own-Root Toughness. Now the Fight is on!
We have a group who proclaims the hardiness of the own-root. There is a
nursery, Great Lake Roses, who sell all "Michigan Hardy" roses. They are very fine plants, and I would recommend them to anyone (although they don't ship, so you would need to be local). One of the owners, Nancy Lindley, co-authored a book called "Roses Of Michigan". Also very good. Anyway, about all they sell are own-root. Good plants, tolerant to die-back, but pricey. I bet this is due in part to the time it takes to get them to a marketable size. They are about twice the cost of a grafted bare root from Canada, the least expensive source of winter hardy roses in these parts. The Canada plants are good as well, although I have lost several of them due to die-back or poor tolerance to shipping. We expect to loss roses here. Particularly hybrid teas. To tell the truth, this type seems to be bashed the most. I'm sure you've heard it (bloom on a stick, no winter tolerance, blah blah blah). I've never quite understood why. For me, I love them all. I have representatives of all types of roses that will grow in our area, from species on up. I have learned to accept the winter kill and just try to have some "little ones" growing under lights over the winter to replace my loses. These are mostly own-root cuttings, although I have some multi-flora in the back I have used as root stock a few times. And if I don't have many loses, it time for a new rose bed. It's a win/win situation! Best Regards Jeff Southeast Michigan, Zone 5 "Gail Futoran" wrote in message ... "Jeffrey L. Kline" wrote in message ... It's been very cold here in Michigan for the passed couple of weeks, Often 25 below Fahrenheit with wind chill. I've provided my roses with the typical protection for this area (a covering of compost around the base) and put up a bit of a wind screen. Most years this is all we need, and my loss rate has been low (2% to 5% of my population, or 2 to 10 roses). Of those, I usually lose a few more grafted plants than own-root, but it's not consistent. (I currently have about 60/40 split of own-root to graft.) This year should be the test. The lows this year have been more like zone 4a rather than 5b. (Actually, in the Detroit area, we are often more like 6a or 6b). I'm going to keep a close eye on who takes a bigger hit. Of course, the big argument is, who's tougher, own-root or graft? J and P and other mass-production suppliers will clam they graft to improve hardiness, although I wonder if it's really just to bring them to market faster. (Own-root takes about three years to a grade 1, grafted are about 2 years). Own-rooter's say this type tolerates die-back better as there is no change of "getting Huey'd". (Dr. Huey is a very common graft stock for roses, and when they go wild, that's what we get!) Of course, own-root is much easier to do, especially in small product operations. So now the fight is on. Who will prove to be the hardier? Stay tuned, this should be good. Best regards, Jeff Southeast Michigan, Zone 5 (or at least we used to be) I look forward to your report. I have both kinds but haven't noticed any trend for hardiness. Usually when I bought own roots it was because that was how the particular variety was made available. Early in my rose gardening experience I lost a number of grafted roses, one batch to a late winter freeze, another batch to excessive summer heat & drought (when I didn't know to water every other day!). But at that time I was only buying grafted roses, minis and old garden roses excluded, of course. Gail near San Antonio TX Zone 8 USA |
#4
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Grafted Vs Own-Root Toughness. Now the Fight is on!
"Jeffrey L. Kline" wrote in message
. net... We have a group who proclaims the hardiness of the own-root. There is a nursery, Great Lake Roses, who sell all "Michigan Hardy" roses. They are very fine plants, and I would recommend them to anyone (although they don't ship, so you would need to be local). One of the owners, Nancy Lindley, co-authored a book called "Roses Of Michigan". Also very good. Southcentral Texas conditions are rough enough at the other end that there are roses recommended that do well in TX. I've found that, within certain limits, what works, is what works! I've had roses thrive that shouldn't do well in my climate, and other "no fail" roses fail repeatedly. Of course, a lot of that could be due to my own steep learning curve re roses... Anyway, about all they sell are own-root. Good plants, tolerant to die-back, but pricey. I bet this is due in part to the time it takes to get them to a marketable size. I've bought very young own roots that have done marvelously well. One Shrub called Moody Dream came as a 1' tall slip (or whatever the term is) and over the first summer grew to about 4'. After that it just kept going. I've occasionally paid a lot for a special rose that was hard to find, so I can understand doing that, but mostly I go for average prices. They are about twice the cost of a grafted bare root from Canada, the least expensive source of winter hardy roses in these parts. The Canada plants are good as well, although I have lost several of them due to die-back or poor tolerance to shipping. We expect to loss roses here. Particularly hybrid teas. To tell the truth, this type seems to be bashed the most. I'm sure you've heard it (bloom on a stick, no winter tolerance, blah blah blah). I've never quite understood why. I'm with you. I've had a nursery person tell me she's never had a failure with a David Austin English rose and would recommend them to anyone. When I told her about two DAE varieties that flat died or lived but poorly, in the same bed as HTs and Fls that thrived, she looked incredulous. Note: Most of my DAEs have done wonderfully well and I'd not hesitate to buy more - just not the two varieties that failed for me! For me, I love them all. I have representatives of all types of roses that will grow in our area, from species on up. That's my approach, too. I started out with moderns (HTs & Fls) but found an old garden rose I really like ("Village Maid", a Centifolia) and that got me started on the possibilities. I don't have any species roses, but just about everything else. I have learned to accept the winter kill and just try to have some "little ones" growing under lights over the winter to replace my loses. These are mostly own-root cuttings, although I have some multi-flora in the back I have used as root stock a few times. And if I don't have many loses, it time for a new rose bed. It's a win/win situation! I've done some cuttings on old garden roses with mixed success. I've had better luck with what I believe is a polyantha, and is called "Red Cascade". You can use it as a groundcover or as a pillar rose. Very drought tolerant, which I appreciate down here. Best Regards Jeff Southeast Michigan, Zone 5 Gail Near San Antonio TX Zone 8 |
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