I am in the unfortunate situation of havng to relocate a well established
Blaze. We are putting in a retaining wall of brick, wrapping around the
front porch and extending down the sides. Several years ago, I had planted
what I thought was Don Juan (but my local rose society members kindly
pointed out that I'd been misled).

Now that it's happy and healthy, planted about eight feet from the west side
of the house, growing up a trellis mounted to a freestanding pole, the
bottom bricks of the retaining wall will cut right through it.

I have dug down, by hand, to spare the roots as much as possible, and have
discovered the main root below the bud union is almost four inches across,
and has several large roots burrowing throughout the soil. I had planted it
with the intention that it would be there to stay, so the roots had been
carefully spread out in a large hole when I first planted it.

I was hoping to be able to hand scoop enough soil out from around it, that I
could possibly bend down the main root, to remain underneath the paver that
will underlay the wall. But it seems to be firmly entrenched.

How can I move it without killing it? I know its "just" a lowly Blaze, but I
would like to move it to the other side of the rose arch, so it'll join the
other one (already in progress).

Here's four pictures of the project, and the roots in the way.


http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289964701

Scopata Fuori


"Bad cat!"

Scopata Fuori wrote:


How can I move it without killing it? I know its "just" a lowly Blaze, but I
would like to move it to the other side of the rose arch, so it'll join the
other one (already in progress).

Here's four pictures of the project, and the roots in the way.


http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289964701

Bareroot it. What choice do you have? Make sure the new home is ready
or keep it soaking in a garbage can until it's ready. I've barerooted
roses in summer, and they survive. In the dormant season, they do
really well. You have to remove all the foliage and cut the canes back
to the length of the root or shorter.

It is better to get as much of the 'root ball' as possible to preserve the
feeder roots than to 'bare root' it. The larger roots are anchors and are
not nearly as important as the feeders. Preperation is the key to success,
prepare the new location and work a LARGE area around the new location to
help the root system get established.

Cut the canes back, there won't be enough root system remaining to support
all of the top growth. Since it is a climber it will take at least a year
to establish new canes to produce blooms the next year. (Climbers bloom on
last years 'wood')

Use a 'root stimulator' and feed it easily, liquids like
Miracle Grow or Peters at half strength.

You are probably better off with a replacement, however if it is worth the
extra effort go ahead and move it.

TT

"Cass" wrote in message
.. .
Scopata Fuori wrote:


How can I move it without killing it? I know its "just" a lowly Blaze,
but I
would like to move it to the other side of the rose arch, so it'll join
the
other one (already in progress).

Here's four pictures of the project, and the roots in the way.


http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289964701

Bareroot it. What choice do you have? Make sure the new home is ready
or keep it soaking in a garbage can until it's ready. I've barerooted
roses in summer, and they survive. In the dormant season, they do
really well. You have to remove all the foliage and cut the canes back
to the length of the root or shorter.

feeder roots than to 'bare root' it. The larger roots are anchors and are
not nearly as important as the feeders. Preperation is the key to
success,

If you live in the wind tunnel
the larger roots are more important
than the smaller ones.

After yesterdays 30-40 mph gusts
so many of my roses stand at weird angles.

Sigh!

--
Theo in Zone 5
Kansas City

On Tue, 10 Jun 2003 14:46:06 GMT, "Theo Asir"
wrote:

feeder roots than to 'bare root' it. The larger roots are anchors and are
not nearly as important as the feeders. Preperation is the key to
success,

If you live in the wind tunnel
the larger roots are more important
than the smaller ones.

After yesterdays 30-40 mph gusts
so many of my roses stand at weird angles.

Sigh!

Poor Theo! I had a little taste of this the second winter, when the
hybrid teas I planted on an exposed hill got blasted during a storm. I
planted up high, so could actuall see the thick roots pulling out of
the ground as the roses lay on their sides! This is when I learned how
resiliant they can be. I just picked them up, staked them, and tamped
the ground down around them and they did fine. The following winter I
made sure they were shorter at dormancy, less wind resistance.





--
Theo in Zone 5
Kansas City

On Tue, 10 Jun 2003 08:41:04 -0600, "Tim Tompkins"
wrote:

It is better to get as much of the 'root ball' as possible to preserve the
feeder roots than to 'bare root' it.

No, Tim. It is much better to bare root an older, established rose
because it is then POSSIBLE to move the thing without a backhoe.

" No, Tim. It is much better to bare root an older, established rose
because it is then POSSIBLE to move the thing without a backhoe.

Part of my dilemma in this situation, if you look at the pictures, the roots
are close to the sidewalk. So it makes it tough to dig it out and leave much
dirt on it.

I know, it's "just" Blaze. But that thing suffered one blackspot season
after another, didn't bloom at all until I discovered our phosphorus
deficiency, and is just now looking like a rosebush, once I discovered
Banner Maxx and Messenger. Roses sure don't come cheap, do they?

I will try to leave as much dirt as possible around it, and pull it on the
yard wagon to its new home, about twenty five feet away. If it doesn't make
it, I will be sad, but it's not an irreplaceable variety. I was hoping to be
able to dig far enough down by hand, to bend the main root backwards, then
strip off all the lower leaves, fill the raised bed, and let the lower part
of the plant (where it used to have lower leaves) turn into roots.

We shall see.


Scopata Fuori

On Tue, 10 Jun 2003 21:35:22 -0400, in rec.gardens.roses you wrote:


" No, Tim. It is much better to bare root an older, established rose
because it is then POSSIBLE to move the thing without a backhoe.

Part of my dilemma in this situation, if you look at the pictures, the roots
are close to the sidewalk. So it makes it tough to dig it out and leave much
dirt on it.

I know, it's "just" Blaze. But that thing suffered one blackspot season
after another, didn't bloom at all until I discovered our phosphorus
deficiency, and is just now looking like a rosebush, once I discovered
Banner Maxx and Messenger. Roses sure don't come cheap, do they?

I will try to leave as much dirt as possible around it, and pull it on the
yard wagon to its new home, about twenty five feet away. If it doesn't make
it, I will be sad, but it's not an irreplaceable variety. I was hoping to be
able to dig far enough down by hand, to bend the main root backwards, then
strip off all the lower leaves, fill the raised bed, and let the lower part
of the plant (where it used to have lower leaves) turn into roots.

We shall see.


Scopata Fuori

Can you wait until the end of the season?

I tried to move a two year old Cherokee Rose in June and it never made
it, even though it had a pretty robust root system.

Everything else that I've moved out of season (either early spring or
late fall/winter), has survived pretty nicely I've moved four roses,
losing only the Cherokee, and would never consider moving anything
from March to October here in zone 6B.

I'd think that the best thing would be to wait until right about the
time it goes dormant, prune the heck out of it, and then dig it up,
pretty much treating it like a bare root rose.

Or even better now that I think about it, is to do the above right
before it's time to break dormancy but after the ground is thawed
enough to work with (say Feb. or March) and then do the mulch mound
thang.

"Scopata Fuori" wrote in message
...

" No, Tim. It is much better to bare root an older, established rose
because it is then POSSIBLE to move the thing without a backhoe.

Part of my dilemma in this situation, if you look at the pictures, the
roots
are close to the sidewalk. So it makes it tough to dig it out and leave
much
dirt on it.

I know, it's "just" Blaze. But that thing suffered one blackspot season
after another, didn't bloom at all until I discovered our phosphorus
deficiency, and is just now looking like a rosebush, once I discovered
Banner Maxx and Messenger. Roses sure don't come cheap, do they?

I will try to leave as much dirt as possible around it, and pull it on the
yard wagon to its new home, about twenty five feet away. If it doesn't
make
it, I will be sad, but it's not an irreplaceable variety. I was hoping to
be
able to dig far enough down by hand, to bend the main root backwards, then
strip off all the lower leaves, fill the raised bed, and let the lower
part
of the plant (where it used to have lower leaves) turn into roots.

We shall see.


Scopata Fuori




Good luck, Scopata... I think you'll be happy to find that it survives. Most
climbing roses seem to be pretty tough. I suggest that you give it partial
shade with shade cloth or cardboard for several days after you move it to
its new home, especially if you're planting it in full sun.

I successfully moved a 20-yr old Tempo climber two years ago, first digging
it out from between the house and driveway then putting it into a 15 gal.
pot where it lived for a year, then putting it into the ground 4 months ago.
Couldn't get much dirt with the rootball, and lost most of the roots since I
had to use a pry bar to get the darn thing out of the ground. (And the
sucker was HEAVY!!) But I kept it damp and shaded for a while and cut back
the canes to about 2'. It seemed to adapt well; it's now on an arch in full
sun, and is growing and blooming beautifully - better than it ever did by
the house.

Sue in SoCal

If this rose was being moved in the fall or winter AND was not actively
growing, the anchor roots are more important. However, at this time, the
rose is active, the
feeder roots are very important to help it survive the move.

If wind is a problem, use 1/4" steel rebar as a stake, as near the center of
the plant as possible and tie it with discarded women's nylon hose. The
nylon hose has enouth elasticity to hold the bush and not strangle it.

Once the root system is established you can remove the stake if you desire.

TT

"Susan Solomon" wrote in message
...
Good luck, Scopata... I think you'll be happy to find that it survives.
Most
climbing roses seem to be pretty tough. I suggest that you give it partial
shade with shade cloth or cardboard for several days after you move it to
its new home, especially if you're planting it in full sun.

Thanks for the encouragement! I love all my roses, and hate to sacrifice any
of them. It's going to be placed at the foot of an arch trellis (see
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289964701 ) to join another Blaze.


Scopata Fuori



"Bad Cat!"