Been using Bayer Rose and Flower bug killer for my roses. I've got worms,
aphids and white flys. The aphids don't seem to want to go away... should I
just continue weekly administrations or more frequent? Also some of the
leaves have black areas on them? what could this be?
One more question, what is the consensus regarding watering roses? I live in
Southern Ca.
Thanks

--
"Cheap work isn't good and good work isn't cheap"

John wrote:

Been using Bayer Rose and Flower bug killer for my roses. I've got worms,
aphids and white flys. The aphids don't seem to want to go away... should I
just continue weekly administrations or more frequent?

Aphids can be controlled by blasts of water in a fine spray.
You should do this every day from when you first see them
until they are gone. (I know this sounds like a long
shot, but it works. Once you blast them off they can't
get back up on the plant.)

I've never used Bayer, so I can't help you there. I
do find that a combination "systemic" (safe for the
environment once dry and then kills anything that
is actually EATING the rose, as opposed to a
"Contact" which kills whatever it is sprayed on and
pretty much stops there)insecticide and fungicide,
along with frequent washdowns, controls all insects
and fungal diseases for me here in NC. (I think your
black spots may be "black spot," a fungal disease.)

The combo insecticide/fungicide I use is called
Orthenex, and you use it every ten days. However:
if you weally, weally care about the eviwonment,
you should first go to great lengths to decide
EXACTLY what insect you have, then just apply
leetle tiny doses of whatever kills that
particular kind of insect. This will take most
of your free time. Me, I just apply the Orthonex
every 10 days to 2 weeks. It works.

On the bad side--you have to wear a respirator
to apply the stuff, because it IS bad news to
lungs etc. when wet. This is the double-edged
sword of effective insect control.

Good luck.

"John" wrote in message
news:HuH8c.93454$_w.1252532@attbi_s53...
Been using Bayer Rose and Flower bug killer for my roses. I've got worms,
aphids and white flys. The aphids don't seem to want to go away... should
I
just continue weekly administrations or more frequent? Also some of the
leaves have black areas on them? what could this be?
One more question, what is the consensus regarding watering roses? I live
in
Southern Ca.
Thanks

--
"Cheap work isn't good and good work isn't cheap"



If you are talking about the combination fertilizer and insecticide
containing disyston, then that is some very dangerous stuff. It's a lot
more dangerous to you the person than it ever will be to any insects. It
translocates poorly into the new plant tissue, which is where the bugs tend
to eat--like the aphids you are experiencing. Get a pair of 99c nylon
footies from the grocery and fill one up with a bit of flour. Shake it over
the apids and leave it for about an hour. Go back and rinse it off. The
apids will be dead dead dead. You can also just rinse them off with a
strong blast from the hose, but I find it much more satisfying to actually
kill the buggers. The black edges on your leaves is probably due to the
apids sucking out the juices and dehydrating them. Or, if these are new
bare roots that haven't quite established themselves, then they are probably
experiencing a bit of dehydration because the roots haven't kept pace with
the foliage. If you are talking black spots, then it could be from a number
of fungal disease from anthracnose, which is prevalent in cool moist
weather, to black spot, which is prevalent in warm moist weather.
Identifying which disease you are experiencing will let you know which
control to use to prevent it. Disease in roses can't be cured. You have to
prevent it before it starts. It can be *stopped*, but that leaf will never
be healthy again.

I'm afraid I don't exactly understand your watering question. It's very
very hard to overwater a rose unless you have 100% clay soil and it's just
rained. More water is usually better.

"John" writes:

One more question, what is the consensus regarding watering roses? I live in
Southern Ca.
Thanks

Watering them every 2-3 days should be good, maybe every day if
it gets over 100 degrees.

-- Patrick (grew up in California but now in Seattle)

Hi John,

I'm new to this group and rose growing in general. But..... I spray for
aphids with a concoction of soapy water that has cigarette buts soaking in
it. Works great for me but (no pun intended) I'm about to run out of the
dreaded nicotine as I gave up smoking about 7 weeks ago.....

Cheers

Stephen

Warrnambool, Australia

"John" wrote in message
news:HuH8c.93454$_w.1252532@attbi_s53...
Been using Bayer Rose and Flower bug killer for my roses. I've got worms,
aphids and white flys. The aphids don't seem to want to go away... should
I
just continue weekly administrations or more frequent? Also some of the
leaves have black areas on them? what could this be?
One more question, what is the consensus regarding watering roses? I live
in
Southern Ca.
Thanks

--
"Cheap work isn't good and good work isn't cheap"

"Stephen" wrote in message
...
I spray for
aphids with a concoction of soapy water that has cigarette buts soaking in
it.

Hello Stephen,

Ah! ...So that's what a Warrnambool "Milk-shake" is...

Ducking and running...

Regards,
Guy
(stockton, ca ,usa)

"Stephen" wrote in message
...
I spray for
aphids with a concoction of soapy water that has cigarette buts soaking in
it.

Hello Stephen,

Ah! ...So that's what a Warrnambool "Milk-shake" is...

Ducking and running...

Regards,
Guy
(stockton, ca ,usa)

"Stephen" wrote in message
...
I spray for
aphids with a concoction of soapy water that has cigarette buts soaking in
it.

Hello Stephen,

Ah! ...So that's what a Warrnambool "Milk-shake" is...

Ducking and running...

Regards,
Guy
(stockton, ca ,usa)

"Stephen" wrote in message
...
I spray for
aphids with a concoction of soapy water that has cigarette buts soaking in
it.

Hello Stephen,

Ah! ...So that's what a Warrnambool "Milk-shake" is...

Ducking and running...

Regards,
Guy
(stockton, ca ,usa)