[Wizzie Brown is the Travis County Entomologist. - jjhnsn]

----- Original Message -----
From: wizziebrown
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: summer pests

I've been receiving many calls on various pests lately, so I thought
I would provide some information for those of you that volunteer for
phone duty. I know calls are sometimes transferred to you instead
of me in regards to lawn & garden pests.

Chiggers: Chiggers are the larval stage of a particular type of
mite. Only the larval stage of the mite is parasitic. Chiggers can
often be found in moist, low lying areas, but also may occur in
brushy or weedy areas. People obtain chigger bites by moving
through an infested area. Chiggers will grab onto a host and crawl
around looking for a suitable feeding spot, typically they settle to
feed in areas where skin is thinnest or clothing is tight (commonly
armpits, waist, ankles and groin). They inject an enzyme into the
skin which breaks down cell tissue on which they feed. Two common
thoughts that are untrue are that chiggers feed on blood or burrow
into the skin. The digestive enzyme they inject is what causes the
skin to itch, swell and turn red. Itching usually begins about 3-6
hours after the chigger begins to feed and peaks about 24 hours
later. Itching usually lasts about a week, but may last longer. To
combat itchy chigger bites, try an anti-itch cream or an oral
antihistamine. To manage chiggers, try the following:
Keeping grass trimmed to a suitable level
Clearing brushy & weedy areas
Sulfur dust may help reduce populations (this will also change the
pH of the soil)
Pyrethroid sprays will also be effective (permethrin, bifenthrin,
cyfluthrin, etc.)

Fleas: Fleas are ectoparasites on various animals, but people
usually begin to have problems when their pets are attacked. Some
people get flea problems when they have no pets. If this is the
case, look for wildlife in the attic or under the home. Fleas can
also be dormant for several months and will "wake" when they feel
vibrations of a new host entering a home. To treat fleas, many
tactics need to be used for a successful management program. Pets,
inside & outside the home should all be treated at the same time
(unless the animals are inside only or outside only, then that
particular area should be treated). For pet treatments, flea combs
are great for removing fleas, but they can be time consuming and not
all pets enjoy this activity. Another pet treatment would be
bathing them on a regular basis; a regular shampoo or one
specifically formulated for flea control may be used (remember, soap
is a mild insecticide). The other option for pets would be giving
them a pill or topical treatment for flea control- there a numerous
products available through veterinarians. Inside the home, people
need to vacuum every couple of days and especially before a chemical
is used. Vacuuming should be thorough, getting along baseboards,
under furniture (also under furniture cushions) and any rugs.
Vacuum bags should be disposed of at least once a week in an outside
garbage can so that fleas do not hatch out in the bag. Pet bedding
should be laundered in hot water; if the pets sleeps with the person
then that bedding should be laundered. There are various chemicals
that can be used to treat indoors, just make sure it's labeled for
fleas and can be used on whatever surface they plan to treat. There
are various insect growth regulators available for flea control
(active ingredients such as s-methoprene, pyriproxifen, nylar, etc.)
that disrupt the flea life cycle.** Outside areas where the animals
like to hang out also should be targeted. Usually these areas
include under shrubbery, under decks/ porches, along fences, etc.
Areas in the yard that get full sun all day will probably not have
many fleas, so they may be able to be skipped in treatment. With
any flea treatment, at least two treatments will be needed. The
first treatment will knock out most of the population while the
follow up treatment will knock out those fleas that hatched out of
the egg since the first treatment. The second treatment should
occur about 2 weeks after the first treatment.

**insect growth regulators do not kill adult fleas

Chinch bugs: Chinch bugs are small, black and white insects that can
cause damage to turf. The nymphs lack fully developed wings and are
pinkish in color. Chinch bugs have piercing-sucking mouthparts
which they use to puncture grass and suck the juices from it.
Damage usually appears as irregular brown, dead patches in the
lawn. There are other things that can cause similar looking damage,
so make sure that it's chinch bugs by actually looking for the
insects. Get down on hands and knees in the border area where the
grass is dead and alive, part the grass with your hands and look for
the small insects. If you see the chinch bugs, you can spot treat
the infested area with a product labeled for chinch bugs. These are
usually liquid or granular products. If you choose to use a
granular, make sure to water the chemical into the turf. If you do
not see chinch bugs, you may have a problem with white grubs or some
type of fungal disease. Chinch bugs usually show up when weather is
hot and dry.

For more information, contact Wizzie Brown at 512.854.9600.

"James Lee Johnson" wrote in message
...
[Wizzie Brown is the Travis County Entomologist. - jjhnsn]

----- Original Message -----
From: wizziebrown
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: summer pests

I've been receiving many calls on various pests lately, so I thought
I would provide some information for those of you that volunteer for
phone duty. I know calls are sometimes transferred to you instead
of me in regards to lawn & garden pests.

Chiggers: Chiggers are the larval stage of a particular type of
mite. Only the larval stage of the mite is parasitic. Chiggers can
often be found in moist, low lying areas, but also may occur in
brushy or weedy areas. People obtain chigger bites by moving
through an infested area. Chiggers will grab onto a host and crawl
around looking for a suitable feeding spot, typically they settle to
feed in areas where skin is thinnest or clothing is tight (commonly
armpits, waist, ankles and groin). They inject an enzyme into the
skin which breaks down cell tissue on which they feed. Two common
thoughts that are untrue are that chiggers feed on blood or burrow
into the skin. The digestive enzyme they inject is what causes the
skin to itch, swell and turn red. Itching usually begins about 3-6
hours after the chigger begins to feed and peaks about 24 hours
later. Itching usually lasts about a week, but may last longer. To
combat itchy chigger bites, try an anti-itch cream or an oral
antihistamine. To manage chiggers, try the following:
Keeping grass trimmed to a suitable level
Clearing brushy & weedy areas
Sulfur dust may help reduce populations (this will also change the
pH of the soil)
Pyrethroid sprays will also be effective (permethrin, bifenthrin,
cyfluthrin, etc.)

Fleas: Fleas are ectoparasites on various animals, but people
usually begin to have problems when their pets are attacked. Some
people get flea problems when they have no pets. If this is the
case, look for wildlife in the attic or under the home. Fleas can
also be dormant for several months and will "wake" when they feel
vibrations of a new host entering a home. To treat fleas, many
tactics need to be used for a successful management program. Pets,
inside & outside the home should all be treated at the same time
(unless the animals are inside only or outside only, then that
particular area should be treated). For pet treatments, flea combs
are great for removing fleas, but they can be time consuming and not
all pets enjoy this activity. Another pet treatment would be
bathing them on a regular basis; a regular shampoo or one
specifically formulated for flea control may be used (remember, soap
is a mild insecticide). The other option for pets would be giving
them a pill or topical treatment for flea control- there a numerous
products available through veterinarians. Inside the home, people
need to vacuum every couple of days and especially before a chemical
is used. Vacuuming should be thorough, getting along baseboards,
under furniture (also under furniture cushions) and any rugs.
Vacuum bags should be disposed of at least once a week in an outside
garbage can so that fleas do not hatch out in the bag. Pet bedding
should be laundered in hot water; if the pets sleeps with the person
then that bedding should be laundered. There are various chemicals
that can be used to treat indoors, just make sure it's labeled for
fleas and can be used on whatever surface they plan to treat. There
are various insect growth regulators available for flea control
(active ingredients such as s-methoprene, pyriproxifen, nylar, etc.)
that disrupt the flea life cycle.** Outside areas where the animals
like to hang out also should be targeted. Usually these areas
include under shrubbery, under decks/ porches, along fences, etc.
Areas in the yard that get full sun all day will probably not have
many fleas, so they may be able to be skipped in treatment. With
any flea treatment, at least two treatments will be needed. The
first treatment will knock out most of the population while the
follow up treatment will knock out those fleas that hatched out of
the egg since the first treatment. The second treatment should
occur about 2 weeks after the first treatment.

**insect growth regulators do not kill adult fleas

Chinch bugs: Chinch bugs are small, black and white insects that can
cause damage to turf. The nymphs lack fully developed wings and are
pinkish in color. Chinch bugs have piercing-sucking mouthparts
which they use to puncture grass and suck the juices from it.
Damage usually appears as irregular brown, dead patches in the
lawn. There are other things that can cause similar looking damage,
so make sure that it's chinch bugs by actually looking for the
insects. Get down on hands and knees in the border area where the
grass is dead and alive, part the grass with your hands and look for
the small insects. If you see the chinch bugs, you can spot treat
the infested area with a product labeled for chinch bugs. These are
usually liquid or granular products. If you choose to use a
granular, make sure to water the chemical into the turf. If you do
not see chinch bugs, you may have a problem with white grubs or some
type of fungal disease. Chinch bugs usually show up when weather is
hot and dry.

For more information, contact Wizzie Brown at 512.854.9600.



Speaking of pests that are usually associated with domestic dogs. My dogs
go under the house for cooler temps. So do ants if I don't water the yard
very well. I've found 5 different species, not including subspecies and
imports in the yard and under the house. Two species decide that the furr
matt of the dog is appropriate for habitation or travel. When I return to
the house and let the dogs in, so the ants do as well. The ants decide to
disassociate themselves from the dogs when in the house. Yes, dogs have up
to date flea collars.

Sideline note: one species of ant, small and orange color traveled up the
front porch column, across the porch overhead, across a small hook and
stringline, over the outside of a hummingbird feeder, to the inside of the
hummingbird feeder to get at the sugar and water left as haven't filled it
for a month. The feeder is essentially empty to begin with. Most of the
entrants are dying of heat as its in direct sun.

As far as gardening, the local white-tailed deer ate my okra and green bean
plants as were not protected by fencing. My experiment in time of drought,
my fault. Tomatoes and jalopenos are the only survivors in my fenced in
garden. Tomatoes are starting to look sad.
--
Jonny