Have been monitoring the tomatoes since early spring when they sprung. Not
alot to talk about. Heat seems to have restricted any reasonable
reproduction. Except for first flowering, with small results and small
maters.

Now since that low cell almost a month ago produced some reasonable rain,
and lengthy cloud cover; have at least 3 dozen fruit and more flowers
continually coming. Intermittent rain since. And lower temps.

The first fruit, same small size seems to be ripening on the vine. Later
fruit is green and continues to grow. Green growth, meaning branching and
consequential leaves are doing well.

Been thinking about transconductance. Meaning, the heat conduction of the
soil from external sources such as sunlight and air temperature. My
observations lead me to think that possibly that the soil type around my
raised garden area is subject to soil temps of the entire soil area. And,
as a consequence, affecting the growth of anything planted there. As a
result, whether the garden is raised, and provided suitable soil is of no
consequence if the surrounding soil temp is too hot.

Comments?
--
Jonny

On Mon, 23 Oct 2006 02:58:57 +0000, Jonny wrote:

Have been monitoring the tomatoes since early spring when they sprung. Not
alot to talk about. Heat seems to have restricted any reasonable
reproduction. Except for first flowering, with small results and small
maters.

To my mind, we have two "mater" seasons in Austin, and it's almost
pointless to try to keep the plants from the first alive until the second.

Now since that low cell almost a month ago produced some reasonable
rain, and lengthy cloud cover; have at least 3 dozen fruit and more
flowers continually coming. Intermittent rain since. And lower temps.

That's the second season.

The first fruit, same small size seems to be ripening on the vine. Later
fruit is green and continues to grow. Green growth, meaning branching
and consequential leaves are doing well.

Been thinking about transconductance. Meaning, the heat conduction of
the soil from external sources such as sunlight and air temperature. My
observations lead me to think that possibly that the soil type around my
raised garden area is subject to soil temps of the entire soil area.
And, as a consequence, affecting the growth of anything planted there.
As a result, whether the garden is raised, and provided suitable soil is
of no consequence if the surrounding soil temp is too hot.

Um, not sure I understand this - are you saying that you think the soil in
your raised beds is affected by the ground temperature?


Comments?

Yes - before the first freeze, pick *all* of the fruit, no matter what
color. You can keep the green ones on a window ledge until they ripen -
they won't rot - and you can get that sunny flavor into January if it
takes that long.

"God Bless Texas" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 23 Oct 2006 02:58:57 +0000, Jonny wrote:

Have been monitoring the tomatoes since early spring when they sprung.
Not
alot to talk about. Heat seems to have restricted any reasonable
reproduction. Except for first flowering, with small results and small
maters.

To my mind, we have two "mater" seasons in Austin, and it's almost
pointless to try to keep the plants from the first alive until the second.

Now since that low cell almost a month ago produced some reasonable
rain, and lengthy cloud cover; have at least 3 dozen fruit and more
flowers continually coming. Intermittent rain since. And lower temps.

That's the second season.

The first fruit, same small size seems to be ripening on the vine. Later
fruit is green and continues to grow. Green growth, meaning branching
and consequential leaves are doing well.

Been thinking about transconductance. Meaning, the heat conduction of
the soil from external sources such as sunlight and air temperature. My
observations lead me to think that possibly that the soil type around my
raised garden area is subject to soil temps of the entire soil area.
And, as a consequence, affecting the growth of anything planted there.
As a result, whether the garden is raised, and provided suitable soil is
of no consequence if the surrounding soil temp is too hot.

Um, not sure I understand this - are you saying that you think the soil in
your raised beds is affected by the ground temperature?


Comments?

Yes - before the first freeze, pick *all* of the fruit, no matter what
color. You can keep the green ones on a window ledge until they ripen -
they won't rot - and you can get that sunny flavor into January if it
takes that long.

Thanks for input. Was unaware of 2 growing seasons. If so, must start new
plants in late January next year to have any chance of decent amount of
fruit prior to May. After that, its too hot. Prior to September is too hot
for new plants.

Tomato plants doing okay since spring, early March. They were troubled in
August. Now okay. Why would I replant?

My thinking is regarding the dry NATIVE SOIL absorbing so much heat and is
affecting the raised bed garden soil temperature. Kinda like an egg in a
hot frying pan. Eventually the egg will get hot as the pan. Even the
jalapenos were close to dying for awhile, same garden. They are also
bearing new fruit and flowers. I don't remember this dual growing season
when I was young living with parents, from S.A. The same stuff kept
producing until it was too cold. All came to a screeching halt in November.
Am living west of Wimberley now.
--
Jonny

On Wed, 25 Oct 2006 02:23:44 +0000, Jonny wrote:

Thanks for input. Was unaware of 2 growing seasons. If so, must start new
plants in late January next year to have any chance of decent amount of
fruit prior to May. After that, its too hot. Prior to September is too hot
for new plants.

February if indoors, mid-March if outdoors. Sometimes it gets hot early,
sometimes late.

Tomato plants doing okay since spring, early March. They were troubled
in August. Now okay. Why would I replant?

Mine rarely make it through August. We replant in late August/early
September, protect from sun for first few weeks.

My thinking is regarding the dry NATIVE SOIL absorbing so much heat and
is affecting the raised bed garden soil temperature. Kinda like an egg
in a hot frying pan. Eventually the egg will get hot as the pan. Even
the jalapenos were close to dying for awhile, same garden. They are
also bearing new fruit and flowers. I don't remember this dual growing
season when I was young living with parents, from S.A. The same stuff
kept producing until it was too cold. All came to a screeching halt in
November. Am living west of Wimberley now.

I don't think SA gets the scorching heat that Austin can, I may be wrong
but I've always thought the humidity was a little higher and thus the high
blue days a little cooler there.

Cut a *bunch* of compost into your soil, and top-dress heavily in late
June - keeps the soil from drying and cracking.

But lately we've gone to lettuces and other cool-weather plants for our
second season, and started later in the year.

"God Bless Texas" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 25 Oct 2006 02:23:44 +0000, Jonny wrote:

Thanks for input. Was unaware of 2 growing seasons. If so, must start
new
plants in late January next year to have any chance of decent amount of
fruit prior to May. After that, its too hot. Prior to September is too
hot
for new plants.

February if indoors, mid-March if outdoors. Sometimes it gets hot early,
sometimes late.

Tomato plants doing okay since spring, early March. They were troubled
in August. Now okay. Why would I replant?

Mine rarely make it through August. We replant in late August/early
September, protect from sun for first few weeks.

Not only do they take up valuable garden space, in my yard at least they
tend to act as a pool for stink bugs, coreids and other hemiptera unless I
pull them.
--
Mike Harris
Austin TX

"God Bless Texas" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 25 Oct 2006 02:23:44 +0000, Jonny wrote:

Thanks for input. Was unaware of 2 growing seasons. If so, must start
new
plants in late January next year to have any chance of decent amount of
fruit prior to May. After that, its too hot. Prior to September is too
hot
for new plants.

February if indoors, mid-March if outdoors. Sometimes it gets hot early,
sometimes late.

Tomato plants doing okay since spring, early March. They were troubled
in August. Now okay. Why would I replant?

Mine rarely make it through August. We replant in late August/early
September, protect from sun for first few weeks.

My thinking is regarding the dry NATIVE SOIL absorbing so much heat and
is affecting the raised bed garden soil temperature. Kinda like an egg
in a hot frying pan. Eventually the egg will get hot as the pan. Even
the jalapenos were close to dying for awhile, same garden. They are
also bearing new fruit and flowers. I don't remember this dual growing
season when I was young living with parents, from S.A. The same stuff
kept producing until it was too cold. All came to a screeching halt in
November. Am living west of Wimberley now.

I don't think SA gets the scorching heat that Austin can, I may be wrong
but I've always thought the humidity was a little higher and thus the high
blue days a little cooler there.

Cut a *bunch* of compost into your soil, and top-dress heavily in late
June - keeps the soil from drying and cracking.

But lately we've gone to lettuces and other cool-weather plants for our
second season, and started later in the year.

Green leaf lettuce and spinach didn't make it beyond May here. Planted in
late Feb. Spinach lasted for about 2 months, small. Leaf lettuce stopped
producing any good leaves around the same time and went into strictly
flowering.

I never tried replanting tomatoes in early autumn. The tomato plants
planted earlier are doing fine at this time. And not causing bug/insect
infestation or otherwise like others may be suffering.

I know Juniper Ashe ("cedar") is a no-no for compost. Buttload of that
around. What about oak from chainsaw cuttings?
--
Jonny

"Jonny" wrote in message
nk.net...

I never tried replanting tomatoes in early autumn. The tomato plants
planted earlier are doing fine at this time. And not causing bug/insect
infestation or otherwise like others may be suffering.

Lucky you!

I was free for about six years then the hermiptera moved in three years ago.
I'm hoping that good sanitation, varying seasonal planting times where I
can, and a few hard freezes will solve the problem in the long run.
--
Mike Harris
Austin TX

"Jonny" wrote in message
nk.net...

Green leaf lettuce and spinach didn't make it beyond May here. Planted in
late Feb. Spinach lasted for about 2 months, small. Leaf lettuce stopped
producing any good leaves around the same time and went into strictly
flowering.

You should already have spinich and lettuce planted. They will produce
throughout the winter. Seed multiple times so you have plants of different
ages -- you are correct that sometine in May it gets too hot. These are cold
weather crops!

"Robbin" wrote in message
...

"Jonny" wrote in message
nk.net...

Green leaf lettuce and spinach didn't make it beyond May here. Planted
in
late Feb. Spinach lasted for about 2 months, small. Leaf lettuce
stopped
producing any good leaves around the same time and went into strictly
flowering.

You should already have spinich and lettuce planted. They will produce
throughout the winter. Seed multiple times so you have plants of different
ages -- you are correct that sometine in May it gets too hot. These are
cold
weather crops!



Glad to hear my observations are correct about May being too hot for lettuce
and spinach. I am also wise to surprise frost in November. Sh^& happens.
I worked as a framing carpenter for 8 years a few decades ago. Lessons
learned.
--
Jonny