Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed. Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,

Kroma

"Kroma" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt
is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,


Kroma

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.

In article , Emrys Davies
wrote:

"Kroma" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt
is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

It will work if the butt is high enough. Failing that, it will
definitely work with a water butt pump, eg
http://www.garden4less.co.uk/water-butt-pump.asp

On Aug 3, 2:02 am, Stan The Man wrote:
In article , Emrys Davies

wrote:
"Kroma" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt
is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

It will work if the butt is high enough. Failing that, it will
definitely work with a water butt pump, eghttp://www.garden4less.co.uk/water-butt-pump.asp- Hide quoted text -

That pump is a bit pricey and 2000 L/hour is a lot of water (2 cubic
metres). My pump is about 8L/min and needs about 15 minutes a day
total to do everything on drip irrigation. It is a cheap solar pump ~
£15 from Bull Electrical - 12v battery also needed & timer to run it.
You also need to watch out for syphon problems.

http://www.bullybeef.co.uk/pumps-air-water-electric.htm

One thing to remember is that mosquito larvae will clog up any jets or
fine holes unless you put an old piece of stocking or tights over the
inlet end.

I doubt if you can get it to balance without having an active pumped
system. The plants nearest the water but will get all the water and
the most distant ones will get nothing.

Regards,
Martin Brown

Regards,
Martin Brown

On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 00:57:20 +0100, "Emrys Davies"
wrote:

"Kroma" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt
is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,


Kroma

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.

You are right that the hydrostatic pressure will reduce along the pipe
the further from the butt, ( the loss will be determined by the size
of the holes I think, without going back to my books
however, there is a solution
( sorry for the pun!) :

The pipe from the butt should be taken to a 'Y' (to the bottom, tail,
of the Y junction)
The perforated irrigation pipe is then used as a loop between the two
other ends of the Y
( the top ends as she is written in english (!) )

That way equipotential is maintained along its length.

(WaltA) wrote:

On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 00:57:20 +0100, "Emrys Davies"
wrote:

"Kroma" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt
is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,


Kroma

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.

You are right that the hydrostatic pressure will reduce along the pipe
the further from the butt, ( the loss will be determined by the size
of the holes I think, without going back to my books
however, there is a solution
( sorry for the pun!) :

The pipe from the butt should be taken to a 'Y' (to the bottom, tail,
of the Y junction)
The perforated irrigation pipe is then used as a loop between the two
other ends of the Y
( the top ends as she is written in english (!) )

That way equipotential is maintained along its length.

I see great Heath Robinson potential here.

The loop idea might ensure that the bed is equally irrigated but doesn't
deal with the bigger problem of the lack of pressure. Because the butt
is open and unpressurised, this would obtain even in the case of
torrential downpour, when the water that couldn't flow quickly enough
along the hose would just spill over the sides.

The system needs to be automatic and self-sufficient (no pumps), so I'm
seeing a header butt, mounted on the wall just beneath the eaves, fed by
the gutter. The irrigation hose, with its Y loop, would come from the
bottom of that, giving a few(?) feet of head, and the overflow from the
header would feed the main butt. Where the overflow from that goes I
couldn't say.

Do I get the contract?

"brian mitchell" wrote in message
...
(WaltA) wrote:

On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 00:57:20 +0100, "Emrys Davies"
wrote:

"Kroma" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt
is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,


Kroma

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.

You are right that the hydrostatic pressure will reduce along the pipe
the further from the butt, ( the loss will be determined by the size
of the holes I think, without going back to my books
however, there is a solution
( sorry for the pun!) :

The pipe from the butt should be taken to a 'Y' (to the bottom, tail,
of the Y junction)
The perforated irrigation pipe is then used as a loop between the two
other ends of the Y
( the top ends as she is written in english (!) )

That way equipotential is maintained along its length.

I see great Heath Robinson potential here.

The loop idea might ensure that the bed is equally irrigated but doesn't
deal with the bigger problem of the lack of pressure. Because the butt
is open and unpressurised, this would obtain even in the case of
torrential downpour, when the water that couldn't flow quickly enough
along the hose would just spill over the sides.

The system needs to be automatic and self-sufficient (no pumps), so I'm
seeing a header butt, mounted on the wall just beneath the eaves, fed by
the gutter. The irrigation hose, with its Y loop, would come from the
bottom of that, giving a few(?) feet of head, and the overflow from the
header would feed the main butt. Where the overflow from that goes I
couldn't say.

Do I get the contract?

any a decent gunk screen between the down pipe & your water tank to screen
out crap n leaves and maybe one at the siphon off tap to keep crap in the
tank getting into the hose. Screen should be easily removed for rinsing out.
Maybe even fit a tap so you close off the flow if you ever want to.

rob

On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 03:59:30 +0100, brian mitchell
wrote:

(WaltA) wrote:

On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 00:57:20 +0100, "Emrys Davies"
wrote:

"Kroma" wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt
is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,


Kroma

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.

You are right that the hydrostatic pressure will reduce along the pipe
the further from the butt, ( the loss will be determined by the size
of the holes I think, without going back to my books
however, there is a solution
( sorry for the pun!) :

The pipe from the butt should be taken to a 'Y' (to the bottom, tail,
of the Y junction)
The perforated irrigation pipe is then used as a loop between the two
other ends of the Y
( the top ends as she is written in english (!) )

That way equipotential is maintained along its length.

I see great Heath Robinson potential here.

The loop idea might ensure that the bed is equally irrigated but doesn't
deal with the bigger problem of the lack of pressure.

Not a problem I think,
There is a little pressure, a few (decreasing) feet of head, enough to
cause the water to leak out gradually. You dont want it all to be gone
in a day do you ?
If it were just a case of diverting ALL the roof runoff to the dry
bed, as it arrived, then an aqueduct of guttering and downpipes etc
would do.

Because the butt
is open and unpressurised, this would obtain even in the case of
torrential downpour, when the water that couldn't flow quickly enough
along the hose would just spill over the sides.

yes, that would happen if one's butt was not big enough

The system needs to be automatic and self-sufficient (no pumps), so I'm
seeing a header butt, mounted on the wall just beneath the eaves,

Mounted how ? Water is awful heavy !

Do I get the contract?

for deputy junior heath robinson, not sure yet. I'll put it to the
committee

"WaltA" wrote in message
...


Not a problem I think,
There is a little pressure, a few (decreasing) feet of head, enough to
cause the water to leak out gradually. You dont want it all to be gone
in a day do you ?

Not a problem - the overflow is from the TOP of the waterbutt so only excess
water once the butt is filled (and during rainfall) will journey towards the
flower bed).

When it's not raining, the butt will happily sit full. When it rains, the
butt will fill or the overflow will spring into action (if butt is already
full).

Kroma

"brian mitchell" wrote in message
...
(WaltA) wrote:

On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 00:57:20 +0100, "Emrys Davies"
wrote:

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.

You are right that the hydrostatic pressure will reduce along the pipe
the further from the butt, ( the loss will be determined by the size
of the holes I think, without going back to my books

It won't be a particularly long run of irrigation hose - maybe 3 to 4 metres
in a straight line.

From all the replies, I think I may give it a go. Now, should I leave the
end open or will the water simply rush out of there and reduce the flow from
the holes (possibly leaving me with a flood)? How big should I make the
holes?

Thanks,

Kroma

"Kroma" wrote in message
...

"brian mitchell" wrote in message
...
(WaltA) wrote:

On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 00:57:20 +0100, "Emrys Davies"
wrote:

I do not think that it will work simply because the force of water will
not be sufficient for it to percolate effectively along the length of
hosepipe. Hopefully I am wrong.

Regards,
Emrys Davies.

You are right that the hydrostatic pressure will reduce along the pipe
the further from the butt, ( the loss will be determined by the size
of the holes I think, without going back to my books

It won't be a particularly long run of irrigation hose - maybe 3 to 4
metres in a straight line.

From all the replies, I think I may give it a go. Now, should I leave the
end open or will the water simply rush out of there and reduce the flow
from the holes (possibly leaving me with a flood)? How big should I make
the holes?

Thanks,

Kroma


Don't make any holes. Use the irrigation hoses as mentioned in my two
postings.

Have you followed the threads and visited the two sites quoted?

Job done for you.

Where is the problem?

Why mess about with Heath Robinson ideas when there is stuff on the market?

Mike


--
The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association if you served in the Electrical Branch of the Royal Navy
Reunion Bournemouth August/September 2007
www.rneba.org.uk
"Navy Days" Portsmouth 25th - 27th July 2008. RN Shipmates will have a Stand

"Kroma" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water
butt is full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,

Kroma


http://www.hedging.co.uk/acatalog/In...sories_25.html

Soaker Hose at the bottom of their page.

Hope that helps

Mike


--
The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association if you served in the Electrical Branch of the Royal Navy
Reunion Bournemouth August/September 2007
www.rneba.org.uk
"Navy Days" Portsmouth 25th - 27th July 2008. RN Shipmates will have a Stand

"'Mike'" wrote in message
...


"Kroma" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed.
Would this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water
butt is full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,

Kroma


http://www.hedging.co.uk/acatalog/In...sories_25.html

Soaker Hose at the bottom of their page.

Hope that helps


Sorry for following my own post, but I remembered that I had seen this hose
in the Plastics by Post shop the other day. This company have now moved to
about half a mile away from me and I had reason to visit.

http://www.plasticsbypost.net/mainpa...gationpage.htm


You may be interested in an installation I did last Summer which is very
much in line with what you wish to do. I built a veranda right across the
back of our house to cover the patio. We are on the South of the Isle of
Wight and have a South facing garden. Lovely to have the patio doors open,
BUT, when we have short sharp showers the doors have to be closed. Not now.

I fitted guttering to this and installed a water butt at one end under the
veranda. This is high enough to get a watering can under the tap at the
front BUT, I have a tap at the back as well, ready for an irrigation hose to
snake out over the flower beds.

Not done it yet!!!! I wonder why!!

The overflow also snakes out under some trees so even when its raining and
the trees are covering the ground and preventing the rain reaching the soil,
the overflow will supply water :-)

Hope that helps as well!

Mike
--
The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association if you served in the Electrical Branch of the Royal Navy
Reunion Bournemouth August/September 2007
www.rneba.org.uk
"Navy Days" Portsmouth 25th - 27th July 2008. RN Shipmates will have a Stand
and to those contacting me, yes I am the chap organising the massive Royal
Navy Reunion in February on Hayling Island.

"Kroma" wrote:

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed. Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Assuming you actually want to do this, here's my serious reply:
because there really wouldn't be enough pressure to drive water any
distance through a small-bore hose, you might do better to think in
terms of a perforated trough or aqueduct to distribute the overflow from
the water butt. I'd suggest using plastic roof guttering, with end-stops
at both ends and holes drilled in it at regular intervals. It would need
to slope away from the butt, so that gravity sent water to the farthest
end. The precise degree of slope and the size and number of holes would
have to be determined by experiment. The trough should be set on/in a
few inches of gravel --rather than sitting directly on the earth-- to
keep the holes free, and it should have a removable cover to keep leaves
and other debris out. Not a tight cover; you want air in the system.

All that would be visible, of course, and may be thought unsightly, so
it could be placed behind a line of ornamental bricks or natural stone,
or maybe plastic edging if that wasn't set too far down into the earth.

HTH

"brian mitchell" wrote in message
...
"Kroma" wrote:

I have a very dry flower bed along the front of my house as it is
shielded
by part of my roof.
I'm planning to put a water butt at the corner of the house and run a
hose
from it as an overflow. I am hoping to 'drill' some holes along the
length
of the hose and lay this along the aforementioned dry flower bed. Would
this then irrigate my flower bed as I hope (as long as the water butt is
full).

Any tips or ideas gratefully received.

Assuming you actually want to do this, here's my serious reply:
because there really wouldn't be enough pressure to drive water any
distance through a small-bore hose, you might do better to think in
terms of a perforated trough or aqueduct to distribute the overflow from
the water butt. I'd suggest using plastic roof guttering, with end-stops
at both ends and holes drilled in it at regular intervals. It would need
to slope away from the butt, so that gravity sent water to the farthest
end. The precise degree of slope and the size and number of holes would
have to be determined by experiment. The trough should be set on/in a
few inches of gravel --rather than sitting directly on the earth-- to
keep the holes free, and it should have a removable cover to keep leaves
and other debris out. Not a tight cover; you want air in the system.

All that would be visible, of course, and may be thought unsightly, so
it could be placed behind a line of ornamental bricks or natural stone,
or maybe plastic edging if that wasn't set too far down into the earth.

HTH

I feel that the irrigation hoses as at :

http://www.hedging.co.uk/acatalog/In...sories_25.html

and/or

http://www.plasticsbypost.net/mainpa...gationpage.htm

would be more effective, less obtrusive and would serve a better purpose
:-))


Mike
--
The Royal Naval Electrical Branch Association.
'THE' Association if you served in the Electrical Branch of the Royal Navy
Reunion Bournemouth August/September 2007
www.rneba.org.uk
"Navy Days" Portsmouth 25th - 27th July 2008. RN Shipmates will have a
Stand.
and to those contacting me, yes I am the chap organising the massive Royal
Navy Reunion in February on Hayling Island.





attached to a second tap