In message om, Des
Higgins writes
On Oct 30, 3:41 pm, Des Higgins wrote:
On Oct 30, 1:41 pm, "Kate Morgan" wrote:

I have just come in from my greenhouse muttering about the fact that
greenhouses like workshops, are never big enough :-) As we are
planning to
move to Scotland my husband suggests that I go for a polytunnel. I am
beginning to warm to the idea but would appreciate some opinions from the
group :-)

kate

We have a suburban backgarden and so space is limited and we have a
12x8 foot greenhouse which I think is better for confined spaces but
is more expensive. If I had a big country patch, I would prefer a
polytunnel and would prefer to have a whopping big one as I think it
would be much cheaper that way (big poly tunnel much cheaper than huge
greenhouse).

ok, looks like I am outvoted; alright then, if I had a choice, I would
choose a nice wooden greenhouse with a brick base, as long as it came
with a small bloke to paint it every 2 years.


If I was offered a choice between a polytunnel and a greenhouse of the
same footprint, at the same price, I'd go for the greenhouse, but I
don't expect to be offered that choice.
--
Stewart Robert Hinsley

On Oct 31, 10:28 am, Stewart Robert Hinsley
wrote:
In message om, Des
Higgins writes

On Oct 30, 3:41 pm, Des Higgins wrote:
On Oct 30, 1:41 pm, "Kate Morgan" wrote:

I have just come in from my greenhouse muttering about the fact that
greenhouses like workshops, are never big enough :-) As we are
planning to
move to Scotland my husband suggests that I go for a polytunnel. I am
beginning to warm to the idea but would appreciate some opinions from the
group :-)

kate

We have a suburban backgarden and so space is limited and we have a
12x8 foot greenhouse which I think is better for confined spaces but
is more expensive. If I had a big country patch, I would prefer a
polytunnel and would prefer to have a whopping big one as I think it
would be much cheaper that way (big poly tunnel much cheaper than huge
greenhouse).

ok, looks like I am outvoted; alright then, if I had a choice, I would
choose a nice wooden greenhouse with a brick base, as long as it came
with a small bloke to paint it every 2 years.

If I was offered a choice between a polytunnel and a greenhouse of the
same footprint, at the same price, I'd go for the greenhouse, but I
don't expect to be offered that choice.
--
Stewart Robert Hinsley

I agree with that now; Having read the other posts; I did not realise
how much maintenance was needed for tunnels. For domestic gardening,
greenhouse is the way to go alright. If I ever went into serious veg
growing, a tunnel might me an option but that is not looking
imminent.

On 1/11/07 10:17, in article
, "Des Higgins"
wrote:

On Oct 31, 10:28 am, Stewart Robert Hinsley
wrote:
In message om, Des
Higgins writes

On Oct 30, 3:41 pm, Des Higgins wrote:
On Oct 30, 1:41 pm, "Kate Morgan" wrote:

I have just come in from my greenhouse muttering about the fact that
greenhouses like workshops, are never big enough :-) As we are
planning to
move to Scotland my husband suggests that I go for a polytunnel. I am
beginning to warm to the idea but would appreciate some opinions from the
group :-)

kate

We have a suburban backgarden and so space is limited and we have a
12x8 foot greenhouse which I think is better for confined spaces but
is more expensive. If I had a big country patch, I would prefer a
polytunnel and would prefer to have a whopping big one as I think it
would be much cheaper that way (big poly tunnel much cheaper than huge
greenhouse).

ok, looks like I am outvoted; alright then, if I had a choice, I would
choose a nice wooden greenhouse with a brick base, as long as it came
with a small bloke to paint it every 2 years.

If I was offered a choice between a polytunnel and a greenhouse of the
same footprint, at the same price, I'd go for the greenhouse, but I
don't expect to be offered that choice.
--
Stewart Robert Hinsley

I agree with that now; Having read the other posts; I did not realise
how much maintenance was needed for tunnels. For domestic gardening,
greenhouse is the way to go alright. If I ever went into serious veg
growing, a tunnel might me an option but that is not looking
imminent.


Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?
--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

On Nov 1, 10:27 am, Sacha wrote:
On 1/11/07 10:17, in article
. com, "Des Higgins"



wrote:
On Oct 31, 10:28 am, Stewart Robert Hinsley
wrote:
In message om, Des
Higgins writes

On Oct 30, 3:41 pm, Des Higgins wrote:
On Oct 30, 1:41 pm, "Kate Morgan" wrote:

I have just come in from my greenhouse muttering about the fact that
greenhouses like workshops, are never big enough :-) As we are
planning to
move to Scotland my husband suggests that I go for a polytunnel. I am
beginning to warm to the idea but would appreciate some opinions from the
group :-)

kate

We have a suburban backgarden and so space is limited and we have a
12x8 foot greenhouse which I think is better for confined spaces but
is more expensive. If I had a big country patch, I would prefer a
polytunnel and would prefer to have a whopping big one as I think it
would be much cheaper that way (big poly tunnel much cheaper than huge
greenhouse).

ok, looks like I am outvoted; alright then, if I had a choice, I would
choose a nice wooden greenhouse with a brick base, as long as it came
with a small bloke to paint it every 2 years.

If I was offered a choice between a polytunnel and a greenhouse of the
same footprint, at the same price, I'd go for the greenhouse, but I
don't expect to be offered that choice.
--
Stewart Robert Hinsley

I agree with that now; Having read the other posts; I did not realise
how much maintenance was needed for tunnels. For domestic gardening,
greenhouse is the way to go alright. If I ever went into serious veg
growing, a tunnel might me an option but that is not looking
imminent.

Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?
--

Same difference in long run I think. Sloshing oil still requires time
and effort. Usually you do it for a bit and then forget. To paint
oil on takes almost as much effort as a coat of paint. The wooden
ones look gorgeous but short of getting a small bloke in, the
aluminium is dead handy.



Sachahttp://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

On 1/11/07 11:53, in article
, "Des Higgins"
wrote:

On Nov 1, 10:27 am, Sacha wrote:
snip

Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?
--

Same difference in long run I think. Sloshing oil still requires time
and effort. Usually you do it for a bit and then forget. To paint
oil on takes almost as much effort as a coat of paint. The wooden
ones look gorgeous but short of getting a small bloke in, the
aluminium is dead handy.


Nobody would describe me as a handyman but I thought there was an oil
(Danish teak oil?) that can just be brushed on and doesn't require all the
sanding down and preparation that painting does? I'm sure I remember some
yotties using that on weathered teak decks.
I certainly agree the aluminium is the best practical solution but it
depends on whether it's going to be considered an eyesore if totally visible
from the house or the rest of the garden.
--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

"Sacha" wrote in message
. uk...
On 1/11/07 11:53, in article
, "Des Higgins"
wrote:

On Nov 1, 10:27 am, Sacha wrote:
snip

Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years,
isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they
must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's
needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?
--

Same difference in long run I think. Sloshing oil still requires time
and effort. Usually you do it for a bit and then forget. To paint
oil on takes almost as much effort as a coat of paint. The wooden
ones look gorgeous but short of getting a small bloke in, the
aluminium is dead handy.


Nobody would describe me as a handyman but I thought there was an oil
(Danish teak oil?) that can just be brushed on and doesn't require all the
sanding down and preparation that painting does? I'm sure I remember some
yotties using that on weathered teak decks.
I certainly agree the aluminium is the best practical solution but it
depends on whether it's going to be considered an eyesore if totally
visible
from the house or the rest of the garden.

Depends on the style whether its an eyesore.Plain auluminium is functional
but you can get powder coated auluminium glasshouses in any colour you want
and turn the duck into a swan.

K

--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

On 1/11/07 12:28, in article , "Sage"
wrote:


"Sacha" wrote in message
. uk...
On 1/11/07 11:53, in article
, "Des Higgins"
wrote:

On Nov 1, 10:27 am, Sacha wrote:
snip

Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years,
isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they
must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's
needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?
--

Same difference in long run I think. Sloshing oil still requires time
and effort. Usually you do it for a bit and then forget. To paint
oil on takes almost as much effort as a coat of paint. The wooden
ones look gorgeous but short of getting a small bloke in, the
aluminium is dead handy.


Nobody would describe me as a handyman but I thought there was an oil
(Danish teak oil?) that can just be brushed on and doesn't require all the
sanding down and preparation that painting does? I'm sure I remember some
yotties using that on weathered teak decks.
I certainly agree the aluminium is the best practical solution but it
depends on whether it's going to be considered an eyesore if totally
visible
from the house or the rest of the garden.

Depends on the style whether its an eyesore.Plain auluminium is functional
but you can get powder coated auluminium glasshouses in any colour you want
and turn the duck into a swan.

K

Sounds good!

--
Sacha
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

On Nov 1, 11:59 am, Sacha wrote:
On 1/11/07 11:53, in article
om, "Des Higgins"





wrote:
On Nov 1, 10:27 am, Sacha wrote:
snip

Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?
--

Same difference in long run I think. Sloshing oil still requires time
and effort. Usually you do it for a bit and then forget. To paint
oil on takes almost as much effort as a coat of paint. The wooden
ones look gorgeous but short of getting a small bloke in, the
aluminium is dead handy.

Nobody would describe me as a handyman but I thought there was an oil
(Danish teak oil?) that can just be brushed on and doesn't require all the
sanding down and preparation that painting does? I'm sure I remember some
yotties using that on weathered teak decks.
I certainly agree the aluminium is the best practical solution but it
depends on whether it's going to be considered an eyesore if totally visible
from the house or the rest of the garden.

I have used that on wooden worktops and it is easy but after a few
years you just forget to do it.
It is hard to maintain the enthuasiasm once the initial novelty wears
off.

--
Sachahttp://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Des Higgins wrote:
On Nov 1, 11:59 am, Sacha wrote:
On 1/11/07 11:53, in article
om, "Des Higgins"





wrote:
On Nov 1, 10:27 am, Sacha wrote:
snip
Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?
--
Same difference in long run I think. Sloshing oil still requires time
and effort. Usually you do it for a bit and then forget. To paint
oil on takes almost as much effort as a coat of paint. The wooden
ones look gorgeous but short of getting a small bloke in, the
aluminium is dead handy.
Nobody would describe me as a handyman but I thought there was an oil
(Danish teak oil?) that can just be brushed on and doesn't require all the
sanding down and preparation that painting does? I'm sure I remember some
yotties using that on weathered teak decks.
I certainly agree the aluminium is the best practical solution but it
depends on whether it's going to be considered an eyesore if totally visible
from the house or the rest of the garden.

I have used that on wooden worktops and it is easy but after a few
years you just forget to do it.
It is hard to maintain the enthuasiasm once the initial novelty wears
off.

Wax might be a better bet outdoors. Paraffin wax is about as waterproof
as it gets. Make your own from a box of candles, or get something like this.

http://www.bellbrush.com/selden-selw...tre-p-460.html

The downsides are that it gets tacky in hot weather and dirt sticks to
it, and the appearance is a bit cloudy compared to oils and varnishes.
Still, it only needs doing once and IME it will almost certainly extend
the life of the wood by a factor of 3-4.

In article , Sacha
writes


Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?


Ha! Sloshing oil over the wood of an Alton greenhouse takes as much time
and energy s painting the thing Sacha . I did mine very year since 1979
but it now has a sagging roof and all the base pieces are rotten, the
glass slides off if you don't put your own screws on the end to hold
them in and I think the roof panes are now dangerous as they could slide
off if the screw come out of the rotting wood up on top.
For some reason Alton rest the panes on a, (well for non technical
people such as me) plank of wood running along the length of the
greenhouse, with about 2 inches exposed, so.............. the rain comes
off the roof straight on to the wood.


Janet
--
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

On 4/11/07 13:09, in article , "Janet Tweedy"
wrote:

In article , Sacha
writes


Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?


Ha! Sloshing oil over the wood of an Alton greenhouse takes as much time
and energy s painting the thing Sacha . I did mine very year since 1979
but it now has a sagging roof and all the base pieces are rotten, the
glass slides off if you don't put your own screws on the end to hold
them in and I think the roof panes are now dangerous as they could slide
off if the screw come out of the rotting wood up on top.
For some reason Alton rest the panes on a, (well for non technical
people such as me) plank of wood running along the length of the
greenhouse, with about 2 inches exposed, so.............. the rain comes
off the roof straight on to the wood.


Janet

I'll take that as a 'no', then? ;-))
--
Sacha
http://www.hillhousenursery.co.uk
South Devon
(remove weeds from address)
'We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our
children.'

Martin wrote:
On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 13:09:31 +0000, Janet Tweedy
wrote:

In article , Sacha
writes

Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?

Ha! Sloshing oil over the wood of an Alton greenhouse takes as much time
and energy s painting the thing Sacha . I did mine very year since 1979
but it now has a sagging roof and all the base pieces are rotten, the
glass slides off if you don't put your own screws on the end to hold
them in and I think the roof panes are now dangerous as they could slide
off if the screw come out of the rotting wood up on top.
For some reason Alton rest the panes on a, (well for non technical
people such as me) plank of wood running along the length of the
greenhouse, with about 2 inches exposed, so.............. the rain comes
off the roof straight on to the wood.

For some years now we've been treating the teak on our boat with Burgess Wood
Sealer. Other than that it turns a dark brown after about a year, it has worked
very well.

Real teak is resinous and water resistant to start with. It would be a
mighty expensive way to build a greenhouse

On Nov 4, 4:59 pm, Martin wrote:
On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 16:10:41 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:





Martin wrote:
On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 13:09:31 +0000, Janet Tweedy
wrote:

In article , Sacha
writes

Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
it possible to buy teak ones that won't need painting? I'm sure they must
cost more but perhaps there's a saving in the long run if all that's needed
is a slosh of oil over the wood?

Ha! Sloshing oil over the wood of an Alton greenhouse takes as much time
and energy s painting the thing Sacha . I did mine very year since 1979
but it now has a sagging roof and all the base pieces are rotten, the
glass slides off if you don't put your own screws on the end to hold
them in and I think the roof panes are now dangerous as they could slide
off if the screw come out of the rotting wood up on top.
For some reason Alton rest the panes on a, (well for non technical
people such as me) plank of wood running along the length of the
greenhouse, with about 2 inches exposed, so.............. the rain comes
off the roof straight on to the wood.

For some years now we've been treating the teak on our boat with Burgess Wood
Sealer. Other than that it turns a dark brown after about a year, it has worked
very well.

Real teak is resinous and water resistant to start with. It would be a
mighty expensive way to build a greenhouse

The surface of real teak needs looking after. My real teak is 34 years old
--

Martin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I used to have real teak and I oiled it every year - alas I don't have
it any longer.

Judith

On 4 Nov, 10:16, "judith.lea" wrote:
On Nov 4, 4:59 pm, Martin wrote:
On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 16:10:41 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

Martin wrote:
On Sun, 4 Nov 2007 13:09:31 +0000, Janet Tweedy
wrote:

In article , Sacha
writes

Apropos the remark above about painting the greenhouse every 2 years, isn't
[....]

Ha! Sloshing oil over the wood of an Alton greenhouse takes as much time
and energy s painting the thing Sacha . I did mine very year since 1979
but it now has a sagging roof and all the base pieces are rotten, the
[....]

For some years now we've been treating the teak on our boat with Burgess Wood
Sealer. Other than that it turns a dark brown after about a year, it has worked
very well.

Real teak is resinous and water resistant to start with. It would be a
mighty expensive way to build a greenhouse

The surface of real teak needs looking after. My real teak is 34 years old
--

Martin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I used to have real teak and I oiled it every year - alas I don't have
it any longer.

Judith

About 20 years ago I "finished" a gazillion
board-feet of ordinary pine and some plywood
with "Watco Dark Walnut Oil Stain" which was
advertised to "oxidize" the outer layers of
the wood as it sealed the surface.
I can't find it now on 3W, but perhaps it
has been renamed Watco Danish Oil, which I do
find...
Anyhow I can't recommend it highly enough:
After 20 years even the pieces that have been
constantly exposed to the sun/wind/rain,
although now dulled, still display a beautiful
depth and emphasis to the underlying grain
Last week I had occasion to cut-up one of the
boards with a skil-saw to provide extra inside
shelves for a cabinet. It went well until I
reached the final 3/8 inch of the cut (every cut!)
where the edge literally exploded: the wood was so
*hardened* by the oxidizing stain that the saw
*could*not*cut* that outgoing-edge without it
splintering explosively. I always had trouble
driving nails into it, usually needing pilot
holes, but I'm flabbergasted that it is so
hardened that a circular saw couldn't cut it.

I give Watco my highest possible recommendation.

P.S. It remains completely weatherproof and
rot-free. Even the pieces I have sealing the
gaps around my window air-conditioner, which
is fully exposed to South and West sunlight,
and our frequent (Seattle) rainstorms. (I'm
sure by choosing the darker color I also get
extra protection from ultraviolet rays.)

In article .com, Des
Higgins says...
I agree with that now; Having read the other posts; I did not realise
how much maintenance was needed for tunnels. For domestic gardening,
greenhouse is the way to go alright. If I ever went into serious veg
growing, a tunnel might me an option but that is not looking
imminent.



Throwing in my penny's worth. I'm planning to make my own greenhouse
again next year (time permitting) and will use clear corrugated pvc
sheets (again). The structure will be made with pressure treated 3 x 2"
timbers set into a concrete foundation. I made one like this before at a
previous property and it worked very well. Not as pretty as a glass
greenhouse but very functional. The timber construction meant I could
attach anything anywhere - great for hooks for hanging baskets or fixing
shelving. Also good for stapling some bubble wrap to over Winter.

I took quite a fancy to sitting there in the evenings with a book and a
pint of home-brew surrounded by all my favourite plants and watching the
sun go down. Bliss!
--
David in Normandy