Hi,

I have this ongoing problem with hazel shrubs being attacked by some
kind of fungal or viral infection which affects the leaves and
eventually kills the plant. The only measure I've found at all helpful
so far is to spray them with Dithane before the infection hits, but this
is horrendously expensive. A sachet costing £1 makes approx 2 litres,
which just about does one bush and I've got over 30 of them I'm trying
to keep alive. The spraying needs to be repeated and this disease seems
to spread to other trees as well.

Does anyone know of any other systemic or preventative fungicides I
could try and which I could get in bulk at non-GC prices? Or have ideas
about a homemade fungicide? I don't want to lose all these hazels.

Desperate in SW Wales.

On Mon, 11 Aug 2008 03:38:45 +0100, Brian Mitchell
wrote:

Hi,

I have this ongoing problem with hazel shrubs being attacked by some
kind of fungal or viral infection which affects the leaves and
eventually kills the plant. The only measure I've found at all helpful
so far is to spray them with Dithane before the infection hits, but this
is horrendously expensive. A sachet costing £1 makes approx 2 litres,
which just about does one bush and I've got over 30 of them I'm trying
to keep alive. The spraying needs to be repeated and this disease seems
to spread to other trees as well.

Does anyone know of any other systemic or preventative fungicides I
could try and which I could get in bulk at non-GC prices? Or have ideas
about a homemade fungicide? I don't want to lose all these hazels.

Desperate in SW Wales.


Dithane costs £2.49 for six 2.25 litre sachets at Wilkinsons. They are
always cheaper than most for garden stuff.

In poorer parts of the world they have had some success with milk.
http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s948323.htm for example
My guess is that the milk is unpasturised as that will ensure the
antibodies etc are still working.

Came across this too. It would help to know which fungus it is,
though it must be one and not a virus if Dithane works.

http://www.ghorganics.com/page15.html

Hope you find something that works. With 30 bushes you could try
trials.

N

"Brian Mitchell" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have this ongoing problem with hazel shrubs being attacked by some
kind of fungal or viral infection which affects the leaves and
eventually kills the plant. The only measure I've found at all helpful
so far is to spray them with Dithane before the infection hits, but this
is horrendously expensive. A sachet costing £1 makes approx 2 litres,
which just about does one bush and I've got over 30 of them I'm trying
to keep alive. The spraying needs to be repeated and this disease seems
to spread to other trees as well.

Does anyone know of any other systemic or preventative fungicides I
could try and which I could get in bulk at non-GC prices? Or have ideas
about a homemade fungicide? I don't want to lose all these hazels.

Desperate in SW Wales.


Hi Brian,

You really need to find out if this is a fungal or viral infection. There's
little point trying to spray plants affected with a virus. The usual advice
for virused plants is to uproot and destroy by binning or burning; never to
add to a compost bin. Neither can you take cuttings from a virused plant.
Not what you want to hear about your 30 hazels, I know, but it may have to
be faced.

I am very far from being a hazel expert, but I do know they're fairly
vigorous plants. I would have thought that such a strong plant would have
shrugged off most fungal problems, unless it's something really nasty - or
new. This would seem to suggest a viral infection. Another possibility, of
course, could be root troubles - another case where leaves suffer first,
followed by failure of the entire plant. (Plants often forfeit their leaves
in an attempt to save the rest of the plant when roots are too dry, too wet,
(add your own nightmare/suspicions)). It might even be one of the
Phytophthera pathogens, which (as far as I remember) are soil-borne, but
show symptoms at leaf level.

It may be worth while going back to your supplier (with a sample, if poss)
and asking if they recognise the problem. They may even have sold you
diseased stock - unknowingly, one hopes. With luck, they may be able to
diagnose a fungal problem and offer advice. Or, indeed, they may even offer
replacement stock. I do think this is the best way to proceed. If you
just keep paying for fungicides, you may be throwing good money after bad if
the problem is viral. If you do contact them, it is worth mentioning
whether the stricken leaves fall, or stay on the plant; it is often a useful
diagnostic.

If I wasn't typing, I'd cross my fingers for you! {:~)
Spider

"Spider" wrote:

Hi Brian,

You really need to find out if this is a fungal or viral infection.
There's
little point trying to spray plants affected with a virus. The usual
advice
for virused plants is to uproot and destroy by binning or burning; never to
add to a compost bin. Neither can you take cuttings from a virused plant.
Not what you want to hear about your 30 hazels, I know, but it may have to
be faced.

I agree that a large part of the problem is lack of information. I have
searched the web for it without success. Grubbing up and burning seems
to be the single professional answer to any kind of tree disease. I
suppose the scale of most forestry operations makes this the cost
effective option. I wouldn't want to do that unless I was sure leaving
them was a danger to other trees.

Root problems have been suggested before and I was advised to implant
mycorrhizal fungus "spikes" around the trees. I did some as a test,
because again these are far from cheap, but saw no result. That doesn't
rule out a root problem, of course. However, the leaves don't simply
fall prematurely. They have distinct symptoms, brown spots and browned
edges which go dry and crisp, the rest of the leaf yellowing. Later, all
the leaves, including any unaffected ones, go limp and dull, which
*does* sound like roots, so it's all very inconclusive.

I'm fairly sure IT, whatever it is, is airborne, as these bushes are
scattered round a 3-acre site, plus the fact that the prophylactic
Dithane does at least retard it. I suppose, if it forms a barrier by
coating the leaves, it could retard a viral infection too. I've also
found, where the plants are small enough for this to be feasible, that
prompt removal of all affected leaves gives the best protection

Not sure about going back to the supplier. They're a mail-order
wholesaler in Scotland, as these were part of a much larger woodland
plantation, and they were bought 8 years ago. Doubtful, too, about
diseased stock as they grew vigorously for the first 6 years.

You might be on to something when you mention phytophthera pathogens
because alder trees seem to be particularly susceptible to these and
there are alders in the mix. Some of these have a fairly similar leaf
problem to that described for the hazels, though it doesn't seem fatal
for them. But I wonder if they're the source of the problem --or the
carriers, because this problem persists from year to year. The fact that
I seem to be the only person in the area with this problem, and also the
only person growing alder trees, might signify something. I wonder how
closely related alder and hazel are?

Bearing in mind your point about not throwing good money after bad, I
think I will try treating a sample with a systemic fungicide (Systhane,
sister to Dithane?) that will penetrate the whole plant. If that does
nothing, it probably is viral and I'll have to decide against which
species to lay the axe.

Thanks for your interest and input. I'm sure you didn't want to know all
this but I've appreciated the opportunity to unburden my soul :-)

Brian Mitchell

tony newton wrote:

On Mon, 11 Aug 2008 03:38:45 +0100, Brian Mitchell
wrote:

Hi,

I have this ongoing problem with hazel shrubs...

Dithane costs £2.49 for six 2.25 litre sachets at Wilkinsons. They are
always cheaper than most for garden stuff.

In poorer parts of the world they have had some success with milk.
http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s948323.htm for example
My guess is that the milk is unpasturised as that will ensure the
antibodies etc are still working.

Came across this too. It would help to know which fungus it is,
though it must be one and not a virus if Dithane works.

http://www.ghorganics.com/page15.html

Hope you find something that works. With 30 bushes you could try
trials.

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions on this, and on the peppers
question too. Appreciated.

Brian Mitchell

In article ,
says...
"Spider" wrote:

Hi Brian,

You really need to find out if this is a fungal or viral infection.
There's
little point trying to spray plants affected with a virus. The usual
advice
for virused plants is to uproot and destroy by binning or burning; never to
add to a compost bin. Neither can you take cuttings from a virused plant.
Not what you want to hear about your 30 hazels, I know, but it may have to
be faced.

I agree that a large part of the problem is lack of information. I have
searched the web for it without success. Grubbing up and burning seems
to be the single professional answer to any kind of tree disease. I
suppose the scale of most forestry operations makes this the cost
effective option. I wouldn't want to do that unless I was sure leaving
them was a danger to other trees.

Root problems have been suggested before and I was advised to implant
mycorrhizal fungus "spikes" around the trees. I did some as a test,
because again these are far from cheap, but saw no result. That doesn't
rule out a root problem, of course. However, the leaves don't simply
fall prematurely. They have distinct symptoms, brown spots and browned
edges which go dry and crisp, the rest of the leaf yellowing. Later, all
the leaves, including any unaffected ones, go limp and dull, which
*does* sound like roots, so it's all very inconclusive.

I'm fairly sure IT, whatever it is, is airborne, as these bushes are
scattered round a 3-acre site, plus the fact that the prophylactic
Dithane does at least retard it. I suppose, if it forms a barrier by
coating the leaves, it could retard a viral infection too. I've also
found, where the plants are small enough for this to be feasible, that
prompt removal of all affected leaves gives the best protection

Not sure about going back to the supplier. They're a mail-order
wholesaler in Scotland, as these were part of a much larger woodland
plantation, and they were bought 8 years ago. Doubtful, too, about
diseased stock as they grew vigorously for the first 6 years.

You might be on to something when you mention phytophthera pathogens
because alder trees seem to be particularly susceptible to these and
there are alders in the mix. Some of these have a fairly similar leaf
problem to that described for the hazels, though it doesn't seem fatal
for them. But I wonder if they're the source of the problem --or the
carriers, because this problem persists from year to year. The fact that
I seem to be the only person in the area with this problem, and also the
only person growing alder trees, might signify something. I wonder how
closely related alder and hazel are?
Check on Hazels susceptibility to fireblight, as the damage you described
sounds like that.
--
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and
Lapageria rosea

"brian mitchell" wrote in message
...
"Spider" wrote:

Hi Brian,

You really need to find out if this is a fungal or viral infection.
There's
little point trying to spray plants affected with a virus. The usual
advice
for virused plants is to uproot and destroy by binning or burning; never
to
add to a compost bin. Neither can you take cuttings from a virused
plant.
Not what you want to hear about your 30 hazels, I know, but it may have
to
be faced.

I agree that a large part of the problem is lack of information. I have
searched the web for it without success. Grubbing up and burning seems
to be the single professional answer to any kind of tree disease. I
suppose the scale of most forestry operations makes this the cost
effective option. I wouldn't want to do that unless I was sure leaving
them was a danger to other trees.

Root problems have been suggested before and I was advised to implant
mycorrhizal fungus "spikes" around the trees. I did some as a test,
because again these are far from cheap, but saw no result. That doesn't
rule out a root problem, of course. However, the leaves don't simply
fall prematurely. They have distinct symptoms, brown spots and browned
edges which go dry and crisp, the rest of the leaf yellowing. Later, all
the leaves, including any unaffected ones, go limp and dull, which
*does* sound like roots, so it's all very inconclusive.

I'm fairly sure IT, whatever it is, is airborne, as these bushes are
scattered round a 3-acre site, plus the fact that the prophylactic
Dithane does at least retard it. I suppose, if it forms a barrier by
coating the leaves, it could retard a viral infection too. I've also
found, where the plants are small enough for this to be feasible, that
prompt removal of all affected leaves gives the best protection

Not sure about going back to the supplier. They're a mail-order
wholesaler in Scotland, as these were part of a much larger woodland
plantation, and they were bought 8 years ago. Doubtful, too, about
diseased stock as they grew vigorously for the first 6 years.

You might be on to something when you mention phytophthera pathogens
because alder trees seem to be particularly susceptible to these and
there are alders in the mix. Some of these have a fairly similar leaf
problem to that described for the hazels, though it doesn't seem fatal
for them. But I wonder if they're the source of the problem --or the
carriers, because this problem persists from year to year. The fact that
I seem to be the only person in the area with this problem, and also the
only person growing alder trees, might signify something. I wonder how
closely related alder and hazel are?

Bearing in mind your point about not throwing good money after bad, I
think I will try treating a sample with a systemic fungicide (Systhane,
sister to Dithane?) that will penetrate the whole plant. If that does
nothing, it probably is viral and I'll have to decide against which
species to lay the axe.

Thanks for your interest and input. I'm sure you didn't want to know all
this but I've appreciated the opportunity to unburden my soul :-)

Brian Mitchell


Hi again Brian,

Sorry to have taken so long getting back to you - I was busy having a
migraine.

I've done a bit of research and, sadly, it's beginning to look increasingly
like Phytophthora. Alders are certainly susceptible to this pathogen, as
are witch-hazels, a close relative of hazel. Hazel itself is mentioned as a
host only rarely. Have a look at the links below and see what you think:

http://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/pdf/fcin6.pdf/$FILE/fcin6.pdf

and
http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/infd-5ubesn ... then click on the FAQ
link.

It doesn't make appetising reading. You may feel it would be helpful to get
the advice of a tree surgeon. Other options are contacting the Forestry
Commission and/or DEFRA.

I truly hope this isn't the problem. It begins to make Honey Fungus sound
almost friendly. I'd hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I have this
horrible feeling .......

I'll be busy for the next 3 days, but I'll check in again on Friday.
All the best,
Spider

In message , Spider
writes

I've done a bit of research and, sadly, it's beginning to look
increasingly like Phytophthora. Alders are certainly susceptible to
this pathogen, as are witch-hazels, a close relative of hazel. Hazel
itself is mentioned as a host only rarely. Have a look at the links
below and see what you think:


Point of order.

Witch-hazels aren't close relatives of hazels. Alders however are, being
placed in the same family as, or in the sister family to, hazels,
depending on how fine the taxonomist slices families.

Witch-hazels are more closely related to saxifrages than hazels, and
hazels more closely related to roses than to witch-hazels. Somewhat
surprisingly witch-alders (Fothergilla) are about as closely related to
witch-hazels as alders are to hazels.
--
Stewart Robert Hinsley