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drainage in side of huge pot
My small front garden is mainly populated by pots.
Novice also wants to grow some pine trees and bamboo in these small cold water storage tanks. See pictu http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2192hyt&s=5 These tanks are 45cm (18") x 33cm (13") x [30cm (12") high]. Since i will only water the garden about once a week, it would be ideal not to put any drainage holes in the tank, so any rain would *all* be collected in the pot. But since i'm afraid of causing rot in the roots, i think i must have some drainage holes. I have found in the past that the roots find the holes after a while and go down into the soil, causing problems when i want to move things around at a later date. So what I thought I would do is put some drainage holes in the *side * of the tank. Then I can easily see if the roots are pushing through. The question is; how high up the side of the tank to put the holes? If i put them up say 3 or 4 inches from the bottom, it would trap a bit of water (like these 'so called' self watering pots). Would that be about right? Any higher would be better in that it would retain more water, but would it cause root rot? Grateful for any suggestions on the best height of the holes. |
#2
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drainage in side of huge pot
On Fri, 5 Jun 2009 12:11:41 +0100, "john royce"
wrote: My small front garden is mainly populated by pots. Novice also wants to grow some pine trees and bamboo in these small cold water storage tanks. See pictu http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2192hyt&s=5 These tanks are 45cm (18") x 33cm (13") x [30cm (12") high]. Since i will only water the garden about once a week, it would be ideal not to put any drainage holes in the tank, so any rain would *all* be collected in the pot. But since i'm afraid of causing rot in the roots, i think i must have some drainage holes. I have found in the past that the roots find the holes after a while and go down into the soil, causing problems when i want to move things around at a later date. So what I thought I would do is put some drainage holes in the *side * of the tank. Then I can easily see if the roots are pushing through. The question is; how high up the side of the tank to put the holes? If i put them up say 3 or 4 inches from the bottom, it would trap a bit of water (like these 'so called' self watering pots). Would that be about right? Any higher would be better in that it would retain more water, but would it cause root rot? Grateful for any suggestions on the best height of the holes. Why not put the holes in the bottom and raise the pot onto a couple of bricks or similar? -- ®óñ© © ²°¹°-°¹ Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass.... It's about learning to dance in the rain. |
#3
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drainage in side of huge pot
®óñ© © ²°¹°-°¹ writes
On Fri, 5 Jun 2009 12:11:41 +0100, "john royce" wrote: These tanks are 45cm (18") x 33cm (13") x [30cm (12") high]. Since i will only water the garden about once a week, it would be ideal not to put any drainage holes in the tank, so any rain would *all* be collected in the pot. But since i'm afraid of causing rot in the roots, i think i must have some drainage holes. I have found in the past that the roots find the holes after a while and go down into the soil, causing problems when i want to move things around at a later date. So what I thought I would do is put some drainage holes in the *side * of the tank. Then I can easily see if the roots are pushing through. The question is; how high up the side of the tank to put the holes? If i put them up say 3 or 4 inches from the bottom, it would trap a bit of water (like these 'so called' self watering pots). Would that be about right? Any higher would be better in that it would retain more water, but would it cause root rot? Grateful for any suggestions on the best height of the holes. Why not put the holes in the bottom and raise the pot onto a couple of bricks or similar? I often put holes in the sides of pots to get a slight reservoir effect - mainly so that if the soil does get dry, water that I apply doesn't pour straight through, but instead pools in the bottom of the pot to be absorbed slowly. I put mine anything from an inch to 3 inches depending on the size of the pot. You need to make sure you have adequate soil above the holes, so that the plants have adequate root masses in soil that is not waterlogged. If you're worried about drainage, you can always fill the pot as far as the holes with stones or crocks, and that is the best possible mimicking of a 'self watering' pot. -- Kay |
#4
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drainage in side of huge pot
"john royce" wrote in message ... My small front garden is mainly populated by pots. Novice also wants to grow some pine trees and bamboo in these small cold water storage tanks. See pictu http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2192hyt&s=5 These tanks are 45cm (18") x 33cm (13") x [30cm (12") high]. Since i will only water the garden about once a week, it would be ideal not to put any drainage holes in the tank, so any rain would *all* be collected in the pot. But since i'm afraid of causing rot in the roots, i think i must have some drainage holes. I have found in the past that the roots find the holes after a while and go down into the soil, causing problems when i want to move things around at a later date. So what I thought I would do is put some drainage holes in the *side * of the tank. Then I can easily see if the roots are pushing through. The question is; how high up the side of the tank to put the holes? If i put them up say 3 or 4 inches from the bottom, it would trap a bit of water (like these 'so called' self watering pots). Would that be about right? Any higher would be better in that it would retain more water, but would it cause root rot? Grateful for any suggestions on the best height of the holes. You really need to learn more about your plants first. The pine and bamboo may have different watering (and soil!) requirements. If they do, you may not be able to plant them together, if that was your intention. Also, you can build in drainage by putting stones or polystrene in the base, which will also save you money on compost. You will need a soil-based compost, btw, to give the tanks stability in windy conditions. As Ron says, you could still drill holes in the bottom and place the tanks on brick stacks. This is actually a very good idea because, in winter, the rootball will be protected from the icy ground. It won't protect the sides of the tank, though, so you'll need to plan for some winter protection. If I were you, I would err on the side of dryness. More plants are killed from over-watering than from dryness. You can always add water, but you won't find it easy to wring the rootball out when it gets too soggy. You've obviously thought about this, hence the question, but the only time I use side drainage is when I'm growing bog plants or marginals. By all means experiment, but not on valued specimens. If you still want to try, look at the 'self-watering' pots you mention. The water reserve isn't that deep, is it? Hope this helps. Spider |
#5
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drainage in side of huge pot
Spider wrote:
As Ron says, you could still drill holes in the bottom and place the tanks on brick stacks. This is actually a very good idea because, in winter, the rootball will be protected from the icy ground. I'm just trying to ponder the physics of how, when it gets really cold, the small mass of the tank will stay warmer than the large mass of the ground? Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh. |
#6
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drainage in side of huge pot
"Chris J Dixon" wrote in message ... Spider wrote: As Ron says, you could still drill holes in the bottom and place the tanks on brick stacks. This is actually a very good idea because, in winter, the rootball will be protected from the icy ground. I'm just trying to ponder the physics of how, when it gets really cold, the small mass of the tank will stay warmer than the large mass of the ground? Chris -- Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh. It may only stay *slightly* warmer, but that may make all the difference. I did suggest that further rootball protection would be necessary. In practice, if the tank (and therefore the rootball) are protected, the smaller mass of the tank will necessarily warm up before the greater mass of the frozen ground. This gives the plant a reasonable chance in cold weather. Spider |
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