On May 8, 1:05*am, James Hunt wrote:
On May 8, 12:46*am, Janet wrote:

"James Hunt" wrote in message
....
A mature horse chestnut about 20m high lies between my neighbours and
my garden, splitting our boundary fence.

He wants it cut down so he gets more sun in his garden, we want it
left as is - we've compromised on pruning the top 30% and removing as
much as possible from their side of the tree, sharing the costs.

*Insist on seeing the contractor's certificate of insurance for chainsaw
work... before agreeing the contract. If he is a trained and qualified
professional he will expect to be asked and be pleased to show it. If he
hasn't got one don't employ him.

* Janet

This is a reply to all comments thus far. Firstly thank you for yuor
feedback.

Secondly, as to my situation, we'll be pressing for a proper tree
surgeon (that we have used before). I think this feedback is enough to
halt my neighbour's plans.

I ought to say though, please do reply if you feel you have any
relevant info - I still would like everyone's opinion as to pruning
horse chestnuts at this time of year..

Thanks.

The bird nesting point is important - it is an offence under the wildlife legislation to disturb a birds nest, and that includes "recklessly", ie accidentally because you were heedless of the time of year that you were doing it. And if you come across a nest, either occupied or being built, you have to stop work.

My neighbour has two old horse chestnuts which have been cut back, so that they're about twice the height of the adjacent cottages. It's a few years since they were last done, and they're looking very attractive - normal shape, just not as tall as they'd otherwise be. I'm not so sure about the idea of trimming back the sides drastically - but I suppose if it's on the neighbour's side and you can't see it, it's up to them.

But definitely work for qualified arboriculturalist if you want it to look good on your side

Since you're happy for the tree to remain, if the neighbours are being difficult, you could ask advice from the council tree officer. It's hardly your fault if you inadvertently trigger a TPO. (though that's probably not likely if the tree is visible only to you and your neighbours)

On 05/08/2012 01:03 PM, Sacha wrote:
Times to avoid: early spring to mid-summer; late summer to mid-winter.
Times it would be best: mid-winter to very early spring; mid-June to
mid-July

Just before that he says "Pruning after mid-summer would be ok but it
may be better to wait until the end of the winter."

What would be wrong with pruning after leaf fall, I wonder? The wood
has ripened, and there's no growth going on obviously.

The trouble with waiting until "mid-winter" is knowing when the sap has
started to run. During a very mild winter, the sap can be going pretty
strong even just after Christmas. For this reason I make sure all maple
pruning is done before Christmas. If you get it wrong they will bleed
for many days. I imagine horse chestnut is the same.

I certainly agree with pruning after the first growth period but before
the second.

Just wondering...

On 05/08/2012 06:22 PM, Sacha wrote:
On 2012-05-08 15:56:54 +0100, Emery Davis said:

On 05/08/2012 01:03 PM, Sacha wrote:
Times to avoid: early spring to mid-summer; late summer to mid-winter.
Times it would be best: mid-winter to very early spring; mid-June to
mid-July

Just before that he says "Pruning after mid-summer would be ok but it
may be better to wait until the end of the winter."

What would be wrong with pruning after leaf fall, I wonder? The wood
has ripened, and there's no growth going on obviously.

The trouble with waiting until "mid-winter" is knowing when the sap has
started to run. During a very mild winter, the sap can be going pretty
strong even just after Christmas. For this reason I make sure all maple
pruning is done before Christmas. If you get it wrong they will bleed
for many days. I imagine horse chestnut is the same.

I certainly agree with pruning after the first growth period but before
the second.

Just wondering...

The man the neighbours want to get in says he can start next week, which
is just the wrong time. That was the problem the OP was referring to in
his first post. If he knew what he was doing, he wouldn't even suggest it!

Yes, we certainly agree about that Sacha! I was just wondering about
why not to prune in late fall, after leaf drop.

What a pity :-((

What a pity that at long last you have come round to what I said right at
the beginning.

Such a shame

Head in sand

Kindest POSSIBLE regards

Mike

--

....................................

I'm an Angel, honest ! The horns are there just to keep the halo straight.

....................................





"Sacha" wrote in message
...
On 2012-05-08 17:27:07 +0100, Emery Davis said:

On 05/08/2012 06:22 PM, Sacha wrote:
On 2012-05-08 15:56:54 +0100, Emery Davis said:

On 05/08/2012 01:03 PM, Sacha wrote:
Times to avoid: early spring to mid-summer; late summer to mid-winter.
Times it would be best: mid-winter to very early spring; mid-June to
mid-July

Just before that he says "Pruning after mid-summer would be ok but it
may be better to wait until the end of the winter."

What would be wrong with pruning after leaf fall, I wonder? The wood
has ripened, and there's no growth going on obviously.

The trouble with waiting until "mid-winter" is knowing when the sap has
started to run. During a very mild winter, the sap can be going pretty
strong even just after Christmas. For this reason I make sure all
maple
pruning is done before Christmas. If you get it wrong they will bleed
for many days. I imagine horse chestnut is the same.

I certainly agree with pruning after the first growth period but before
the second.

Just wondering...

The man the neighbours want to get in says he can start next week, which
is just the wrong time. That was the problem the OP was referring to in
his first post. If he knew what he was doing, he wouldn't even suggest
it!

Yes, we certainly agree about that Sacha! I was just wondering about
why not to prune in late fall, after leaf drop.

Ah, sorry, I didn't follow that properly. I think the OP needs to look at
this extremely carefully. If a TPO isn't on the tree... I'm thinking
it may look simply awful, pruned right back on one side and topped out, as
well. I suspect the OP's pleasure in having that tree may well be ruined
altogether. I'd almost rather get a TPO on it, go out for the day and let
it be felled completely, or have it turned into a large stump up which
they grow climbers. I can't see how this is going to improve the look of
the tree, whatever time of year the work is done. Oh dear!
--
Sacha
www.hillhousenursery.com
www.hillhousenurserytearoom.com
South Devon

In article , says...

I suspect the OP's pleasure in having that tree
may well be ruined altogether. I'd almost rather get a TPO on it, go
out for the day and let it be felled completely, or have it turned into
a large stump up which they grow climbers.

For those who don't know what a TPO is :

A Tree Preservation Order will BAN a live healthy tree from being
felled, and owners who disobey a TPO on their tree would face a gigantic
fine for felling or damaging it.

Janet

"Janet" wrote in message
...
In article , says...

I suspect the OP's pleasure in having that tree
may well be ruined altogether. I'd almost rather get a TPO on it, go
out for the day and let it be felled completely, or have it turned into
a large stump up which they grow climbers.

For those who don't know what a TPO is :

A Tree Preservation Order will BAN a live healthy tree from being
felled, and owners who disobey a TPO on their tree would face a gigantic
fine for felling or damaging it.

Janet



From a VERY experienced Chappy whose business if felling/pruning trees .....

............... ""ABOUT"" £3000.00 .................

in HIS EXPERIENCE..

others will of course have other stories won't they?

Mike


--

....................................

I'm an Angel, honest ! The horns are there just to keep the halo straight.

....................................