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Taking cutting of alder
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"Charlie Pridham" wrote: "Michael Bell" wrote in message . uk... In message Michael Bell wrote: In message David Hill wrote: On 26/05/2013 08:47, Emery Davis wrote: On Sun, 26 May 2013 07:26:28 +0100, Michael Bell wrote: I know what you are saying, but setting that aside, there really ought to be a way of taking cutttings from trees of any kind and that is the question I asked. Not all trees can be grown from cuttings. For many Japanese maple cultivars, and several maple species, it is virtually impossible. Some work at a low percentage rate, then are liable to fail suddenly. Others are viable at a commercial scale, and there are now a few nurseries propagating them in this manner, even though some are leery of their long term health. Assuming you are attempting to propagate A. glutinosa, here is what Dirr and Heuser have to say in "The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation." "CUTTINGS: Cuttings (no time given), wound, 8000 ppm IBA-talc, rooted 64%. Without treatment there was no rooting. In general, this species is produced from seed, however, two notable cutleaf selections, 'Imperialis' and 'Laciniata', can be rooted successfully. Mid-July cuttings of 'Imperialis' rooted 34% in 7 weeks when treated with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP and 58% with 5000 ppm 2,4,5-TP plus Rootone. Late June 'Laciniata' cuttings rooted 34% in 7 weeks with a wound and 8000 ppm IBA-talc plus thiram, mist. Another report noted 'Imperialis' rooted easily from softwoods when treated with 3000 ppm IBA-talc." Other information is offered on grafting and tissue culture, several Alnus species are covered. Dirr and Heuser is a standard horticultural reference that should be available at any decent university library, and many public libraries. May I suggest that use of the literature would be a good idea given how long your experiments are likely to run. Good luck, -E I've now got this book and a mist propagator and "Strike" (Bayer), which I suppose is the European standard rooting powder, and a mist propagator, and I am ready to go, but what exactly does "wound" mean? Might it mean a single scratch down one side of the stem, or simply the stem cut at a shallow angle, so it has a lot of exposed surface? Michael Bell It means removing a narrow sliver down just one side of the cutting, remove the outer layer of bark but not going right through, its not an exact science and some experimentation is usually required to find what works best, same for mist units the settings that work best vary and also change during the year. One thing you will find of huge benefit is to shade the mist unit with thin white polythene to prevent sun scorch Try doing some other easy subjects as well as your Alders, that way you will know if the mist unit settings are ok but the timing for the Alder cuttings needs adjusting, or if the easy stuff fails the settings are wrong! My mist propagotion unit is in shade on the north side of my house (because of lack of space on any other side) so scorch is not a problem. I have the settings on maximum wetness, and the first cuttings went in on Friday, and they are still alive. Lacking advice on what "wounded" meant I simply dipped the ends into rooting powder. I wait to see what happens! Michael Bell -- |
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