On 28/08/2014 10:10, Ophelia wrote:


"JD" wrote in message
...
Spider wrote in
:


When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is,
any inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

It helps massively. Thank you, Spider! Apologies for the delayed reply.
Your advice told be a lot that I hadn't managed to find elswhere.

Thank you again!

Spider should write a book! I would buy it



Bless you for saying that, Ophelia, but I don't think it would fly off
the shelves. Anyway, whichever gremlin is behind GB and stealing URG's
knowledge is already writing it :~(.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 27/08/2014 22:11, JD wrote:
Spider wrote in
:


When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is,
any inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

It helps massively. Thank you, Spider! Apologies for the delayed reply.
Your advice told be a lot that I hadn't managed to find elswhere.

Thank you again!

JD


You're most welcome.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

On 28/08/2014 15:18, JD wrote:
"Ophelia" wrote in news:ltms4k$8ju$1@dont-
email.me:

Spider should write a book!

If you press her... Spider mite... boom-boom! ;-)


Groan! For your information, spider mites aren't true spiders (which of
course I am), but arachnids. All spiders are arachnids, but not all
arachnids are spiders. "spider mite", indeed! ;~)


If you're reading this, Spider, do you think I could switch my Tree No3
with Treem No.2? They have been in the ground less than six months. The
shapes that I can see forming would be ideal for their locations if I
switched their positions. Are apple trees of this age tolerant to being
replanted? I'm guessing their root system will still be 'dig-uppable'.

JD



I am reading this, Jake. After less than six months, you could
certainly move your trees *again* ... one last time. As I said in my
earlier reply to your other post, the mystery garden tour for your poor
trees is not helping them establish. If you really want to do it, wait
until November and do the deed then, but please make it the last time,
then keep on top of watering and nutrition for a couple of years so they
can settle down. You may even want to replant with one of these
micorrhyzal root growth products. Have a google and see what you think.
It's a very personal decision, not least because they're expensive.
--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 28/08/2014 10:10, Ophelia wrote:


"JD" wrote in message
...
Spider wrote in
:


When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is,
any inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

It helps massively. Thank you, Spider! Apologies for the delayed reply.
Your advice told be a lot that I hadn't managed to find elswhere.

Thank you again!

Spider should write a book! I would buy it



Bless you for saying that, Ophelia, but I don't think it would fly off the
shelves. Anyway, whichever gremlin is behind GB and stealing URG's
knowledge is already writing it :~(.

Oh I noticed that my book has been despatched but ...

Your estimated delivery date is:
Saturday, August 30, 2014 -
Thursday, September 11, 2014

Fingers crossed it comes faster than September

What is 'GB'? Are you saying someone is writing a book with knowledge
gained from the posters here??



--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

Ophelia that is quite possible. I am in communication with people who read
this forum and because of the attitude/troublemakers/snobbery applied, won't
ever post. They just laugh at the antics of those who should know better.
However, considering that I know of only a 'few', and considering that these
postings are copied to Garden Banter, MUCH to the disgust, but JOY for
advertising purposes by one habitual poster, you must consider the fact that
the wealth of information spread to these two forums in particular and
............... where else? then there must be sufficient information to put
into paper format to line someone's pocket .......... and that COULD be
someone, in the words of Semprini 'We all know and love so well', in other
words, someone who posts HERE.

Mike

..................................................
For those ex Royal Navy.
http://angelradioisleofwight.moonfru...ive/4574468641
7.30 – 8.00 pm Wednesday 3rd September 2014
‘From the Crowe’s Nest’
"Ophelia" wrote in message ...



"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 28/08/2014 10:10, Ophelia wrote:


"JD" wrote in message
...
Spider wrote in
:


When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is,
any inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

It helps massively. Thank you, Spider! Apologies for the delayed reply.
Your advice told be a lot that I hadn't managed to find elswhere.

Thank you again!

Spider should write a book! I would buy it



Bless you for saying that, Ophelia, but I don't think it would fly off the
shelves. Anyway, whichever gremlin is behind GB and stealing URG's
knowledge is already writing it :~(.

Oh I noticed that my book has been despatched but ...

Your estimated delivery date is:
Saturday, August 30, 2014 -
Thursday, September 11, 2014

Fingers crossed it comes faster than September

What is 'GB'? Are you saying someone is writing a book with knowledge
gained from the posters here??



--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

On 29/08/2014 16:20, Ophelia wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 28/08/2014 10:10, Ophelia wrote:


"JD" wrote in message
...
Spider wrote in
:


When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is,
any inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

It helps massively. Thank you, Spider! Apologies for the delayed reply.
Your advice told be a lot that I hadn't managed to find elswhere.

Thank you again!

Spider should write a book! I would buy it



Bless you for saying that, Ophelia, but I don't think it would fly off
the shelves. Anyway, whichever gremlin is behind GB and stealing
URG's knowledge is already writing it :~(.

Oh I noticed that my book has been despatched but ...

Your estimated delivery date is:
Saturday, August 30, 2014 -
Thursday, September 11, 2014

Fingers crossed it comes faster than September

What is 'GB'? Are you saying someone is writing a book with knowledge
gained from the posters here??



Sorry .. GB is Garden Banter .. and I'm sure someone's making very good
use of Urglers' work. I meant to say 'probably' writing, but the
fingers couldn't find the keys ;~).

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay

"'Mike'" wrote in message
...
Ophelia that is quite possible. I am in communication with people who read
this forum and because of the attitude/troublemakers/snobbery applied,
won't ever post. They just laugh at the antics of those who should know
better. However, considering that I know of only a 'few', and considering
that these postings are copied to Garden Banter, MUCH to the disgust, but
JOY for advertising purposes by one habitual poster, you must consider the
fact that the wealth of information spread to these two forums in
particular and .............. where else? then there must be sufficient
information to put into paper format to line someone's pocket ..........
and that COULD be someone, in the words of Semprini 'We all know and love
so well', in other words, someone who posts HERE.

Mike, What is 'quite possible'? Was it about the book?

I didn't post for a long time, but I have always been reading. Someone
brought here a post by me from another group and I felt the need to respond.
I am pleased now that I did, because I have been lucky enough to find Spider
who is guiding me through a lot of unknowns

I have always learned a lot from just reading here ... most recently the bit
about not removing leaves from the tomato plants! Unfortunately I had just
taken most of my leaves off, but I will never do it again! I have never
seen the in depth advice about my trees discussed though so I am indebted to
Spider for her kindness


.................................................
For those ex Royal Navy.
http://angelradioisleofwight.moonfru...ive/4574468641
7.30 – 8.00 pm Wednesday 3rd September 2014
‘From the Crowe’s Nest’
"Ophelia" wrote in message ...



"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 28/08/2014 10:10, Ophelia wrote:


"JD" wrote in message
...
Spider wrote in
:


When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is,
any inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

It helps massively. Thank you, Spider! Apologies for the delayed reply.
Your advice told be a lot that I hadn't managed to find elswhere.

Thank you again!

Spider should write a book! I would buy it



Bless you for saying that, Ophelia, but I don't think it would fly off
the shelves. Anyway, whichever gremlin is behind GB and stealing URG's
knowledge is already writing it :~(.

Oh I noticed that my book has been despatched but ...

Your estimated delivery date is:
Saturday, August 30, 2014 -
Thursday, September 11, 2014

Fingers crossed it comes faster than September

What is 'GB'? Are you saying someone is writing a book with knowledge
gained from the posters here??



--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 29/08/2014 16:20, Ophelia wrote:


"Spider" wrote in message
...
On 28/08/2014 10:10, Ophelia wrote:


"JD" wrote in message
...
Spider wrote in
:


When you do start pruning, you first need to cut out the three 'Ds':
dead, dying and diseased growth. Then any crossing growth, that is,
any inward-growing branches which spoil the shape of the tree and
also
increase the possibilty of fungal disease due to restricting air
movement. Also cut out any branch which rubs on another and may
cause
wounding, which will subsequently let in disease.

The other useful thing you could do is drop heavy hints for a good
pruning guide for Christmas. I recommend the RHS Pruning & Training
guide by Christopher Brickell & David Joyce. It's a Dorling
Kindersley
publication, ISBN 1-4053-0073-6.

Hope that helps a bit.

It helps massively. Thank you, Spider! Apologies for the delayed
reply.
Your advice told be a lot that I hadn't managed to find elswhere.

Thank you again!

Spider should write a book! I would buy it



Bless you for saying that, Ophelia, but I don't think it would fly off
the shelves. Anyway, whichever gremlin is behind GB and stealing
URG's knowledge is already writing it :~(.

Oh I noticed that my book has been despatched but ...

Your estimated delivery date is:
Saturday, August 30, 2014 -
Thursday, September 11, 2014

Fingers crossed it comes faster than September

What is 'GB'? Are you saying someone is writing a book with knowledge
gained from the posters here??



Sorry .. GB is Garden Banter .. and I'm sure someone's making very good
use of Urglers' work. I meant to say 'probably' writing, but the fingers
couldn't find the keys ;~).

Yes I have heard a lot about Garden Banter in other groups But you
have huge knowledge and for a novice like me, you are a gift)

I still say you should write your book I bet I am not the only one who
would buy it.

--
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/shop/

Spider wrote in
:

Don't worry about the summer pruning too much. In fact, it is
probably the guided tour of your garden that held it back most but, as
you say, what's done is done. You really need to make sure that it
doesn't want for water. If anything, water especially well outside
the planting hole. This will oblige the roots to move out into the
soil in search of water and nutrients. I'm sure you can see how this
will encourage growth and help the tree anchor itself in the ground.

Another great tip - thank you!

I notice that only two of your trees have stakes. It would be wise
with the winter coming to put in a short stake for the third tree.
Shorter stakes are advised these days, as it allows the tree to move
in the wind and strengthen itself. The stake should be inserted (away
from the rootball) at approx 45 degrees and so that the prevailing
wind pushes the stake into the ground, rather than pulling it out.
Use a buffer between the tree and the stake so that there is no
chafing when the tree moves in the wind. Chafing means damage: damage
means disease.

Will do - thanks!

When I bough these saplings (from Asda) there was no indication what
the rootstock was or what the final height would be. I suppose only
time will tell.



Yes, this is a problem. I even Googled Asda fruit trees in the vain
hope that I would learn something, but nothing showing. Do you
remember what the apple types were? Knowing this should help us learn
whether they're spur or tip bearing.

I just found the card that came with them (which aso states some height
inf)
Cox's Orange Pippin (Tree-2 that got snapped off half way up)
Jonagold (Tree1 or Tree-3 - I can't remember which)
Elstart (Tree1 or Tree-3 - I can't remember which)

All of them are suppost to grow to aboout 10 feet, according to the
cards.


Not wishing to be negative, but suspend your surprise for a while.
Trees often *seem* to cope with immediate disruption or starving or
flooding, but a year or three down the line start to show signs of
stress .. or worse. This is why I emphasized watering and staking and
general good care above. The chances are that, with due care and
watering (even after a light shower), your tree will grow away well,
but its not out of the woods yet.

Thanks... yes, one thing I havee been doing is watering them well,
including with liquid manure from my large drum of water into which I put
greenery clippings to decompose into a nutritious soup. Yiou have to be
carefuk with it though; it nearly killed my potted catnip bush!

JD

On 01/09/2014 16:00, JD wrote:
Spider wrote in
:

Don't worry about the summer pruning too much. In fact, it is
probably the guided tour of your garden that held it back most but, as
you say, what's done is done. You really need to make sure that it
doesn't want for water. If anything, water especially well outside
the planting hole. This will oblige the roots to move out into the
soil in search of water and nutrients. I'm sure you can see how this
will encourage growth and help the tree anchor itself in the ground.

Another great tip - thank you!

I notice that only two of your trees have stakes. It would be wise
with the winter coming to put in a short stake for the third tree.
Shorter stakes are advised these days, as it allows the tree to move
in the wind and strengthen itself. The stake should be inserted (away
from the rootball) at approx 45 degrees and so that the prevailing
wind pushes the stake into the ground, rather than pulling it out.
Use a buffer between the tree and the stake so that there is no
chafing when the tree moves in the wind. Chafing means damage: damage
means disease.

Will do - thanks!

When I bough these saplings (from Asda) there was no indication what
the rootstock was or what the final height would be. I suppose only
time will tell.



Yes, this is a problem. I even Googled Asda fruit trees in the vain
hope that I would learn something, but nothing showing. Do you
remember what the apple types were? Knowing this should help us learn
whether they're spur or tip bearing.

I just found the card that came with them (which aso states some height
inf)
Cox's Orange Pippin (Tree-2 that got snapped off half way up)
Jonagold (Tree1 or Tree-3 - I can't remember which)
Elstart (Tree1 or Tree-3 - I can't remember which)

All of them are suppost to grow to aboout 10 feet, according to the
cards.



Good news. They're all spur bearing. Makes life much easier when you
come to pruning. I'm not sure which rootstock would create a 10ft tree,
but I hope it's manageable and I hope it's tall enough for you to walk
under and sit under. Time will tell.

Not wishing to be negative, but suspend your surprise for a while.
Trees often *seem* to cope with immediate disruption or starving or
flooding, but a year or three down the line start to show signs of
stress .. or worse. This is why I emphasized watering and staking and
general good care above. The chances are that, with due care and
watering (even after a light shower), your tree will grow away well,
but its not out of the woods yet.

Thanks... yes, one thing I havee been doing is watering them well,
including with liquid manure from my large drum of water into which I put
greenery clippings to decompose into a nutritious soup. Yiou have to be
carefuk with it though; it nearly killed my potted catnip bush!

JD


Now I've never used one of these 'compost teas' as they're called.
They're supposed to be very good, but usually they need some dilution
before application. If you're not sure of your dilution rate, I suggest
you start another thread so all the compost tea users on urg can offer
advice. You may be using a much too strong solution or, indeed, you may
know what you're doing :~).

--
Spider.
On high ground in SE London
gardening on heavy clay