In article , Mike Lyle
writes
Alan Gould wrote in message news:VBFHI+CLGDU$EwWl@a
golincs.demon.co.uk...
In article , Steve
Harris writes

Yes, going for the crowns helps but the remaining roots WILL send up
shoots
That is true, but if new shoots are tackled early they are quite soft
and easy to snip off with secateurs. [...]

Gosh! All along I thought the small regrowths must be seedlings. Live
and learn: thanks to both.

Bramble seedlings have smaller leaves and are easy to pull up as their
roots are only about 3inches long by the time you recognise them as
brambles. You do get seedlings, but the main regeneration is from the
roots.
--
Kay Easton

Edward's earthworm page:
http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/edward/index.htm

Kay Easton wrote in message ...
In article , Mike Lyle
writes
Alan Gould wrote in message news:VBFHI+CLGDU$EwWl@a
golincs.demon.co.uk...
In article , Steve
Harris writes

Yes, going for the crowns helps but the remaining roots WILL send up
shoots
That is true, but if new shoots are tackled early they are quite soft
and easy to snip off with secateurs. [...]

Gosh! All along I thought the small regrowths must be seedlings. Live
and learn: thanks to both.

Bramble seedlings have smaller leaves and are easy to pull up as their
roots are only about 3inches long by the time you recognise them as
brambles. You do get seedlings, but the main regeneration is from the
roots.

In that case I must be much more efficient at getting the things out
than I thought, as I've never been troubled by shoots from crownless
roots: this is better news than I usually expect! The regrowths I've
had on various sites are definitely seedlings, apart from a few where
it seems clear on forking them out that I've inadvertently left a
small crown in the ground.

I wish now I'd looked at the ones I had to get out of a load of weedy
soil I got from a neighbour: as they hadn't been hand-weeded but just
broken up by the digger, they could have proved your point
conclusively.

Mike.

On Fri, 29 Aug 2003 21:46 +0100 (BST), Steve Harris wrote:
In article ,
(Alan Gould) wrote:

Cut them off close to the ground. Some new shoots will appear, but
they are easily removed and the root systems will rot away by next
spring.

Perhaps Lincolnshire brambles give up much easier than our
Gloucestershire ones! Even adding glyphosate treatment to that regime
doesn't get rid of them in a season.

I'm hoping that the brambles I've just taken down aren't that weak and
mild, with any luck they'll be coming back for next year just in time
for me to get the wires up to train the buggers. I think I deserve a
few blackberries as payback for my arms which apparently look like
I've been fighting a bobcat. Nice bonfire lastnight though

While I'm pondering does anyone have any recommendations for dwarf
fruit trees, we're thinking of putting in 3-4 down the bottom edge of
the hill as a bit of screening and to add to the fruit we're hoping to
get off the plot.

Mark

--
The Flying Hamster http://www.korenwolf.net/
IRISH DIPLOMACY: The ability to tell a man to go to Hell in such a way that
he looks forward to the trip.

On 29 Aug 2003 11:11:28 -0700, Mike Lyle wrote:
says, be left to rot, as they won't send out shoots. I'd invest in
some stout leather gloves before starting!

and be prepared to still get thorns and other nasties coming through
the leather when you're not expecting it.

There will be some seedlings and probably nettles for the next couple
of years, but they're easy enough to deal with. One lawn I made of an
old bramble-patch still, three years later, sends up surprises in the
form of bindweed seedlings: no top growth was visible at the time I

What's the current best thinking on how to kill off bindweed and
nettles? We've got a nice little growth of both of them on one side
of the plot and I'm up for anything which will make the job of keeping
them down easier (mowing isn't an option as the ground is 'uneven')

--
The Flying Hamster http://www.korenwolf.net/
I am Homer of Borg! Prepare to be...OOooooo! Donuts!!!

The message et
from The Flying Hamster contains
these words:

What's the current best thinking on how to kill off bindweed and
nettles? We've got a nice little growth of both of them on one side
of the plot and I'm up for anything which will make the job of keeping
them down easier (mowing isn't an option as the ground is 'uneven')

Glyphosate on the bidweed, and you can strim the nettles or zap them
with glyphosate.

I've been experimenting with bindweed: every time a new bit appeared, I
pulled it. I started early in the spring and I've just pulled some
today.

Poison the gits.

--
Rusty Hinge
horrid·squeak&zetnet·co·uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/tqt.htm

The message et
from The Flying Hamster contains
these words:

While I'm pondering does anyone have any recommendations for dwarf
fruit trees, we're thinking of putting in 3-4 down the bottom edge of
the hill as a bit of screening and to add to the fruit we're hoping to
get off the plot.

Charles Ross. Lovely apple and can be used as a cooker too. The apples
are the size of young melons......

Bramley. Everyone needs a Bramley. But not a dwarf one.

Beauty of Bath?

--
Rusty Hinge
horrid·squeak&zetnet·co·uk
http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/hi-fi/tqt.htm

In article et,
(The Flying Hamster) wrote:

I'm hoping that the brambles I've just taken down aren't that weak and
mild, with any luck they'll be coming back for next year just in time
for me to get the wires up to train the buggers. I think I deserve a
few blackberries as payback

I wondered about sparing a few of the buggers. Then I considered that
they'd been these about 15 years and were not very productive. Probably
full of pests and diseases and emptied the soil. So I decided on total
war.

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com