My vegetable plot gets no direct sun from November-February inclusive.
Part of the plot has a further 2 months of gloom.

Questions:

1. Will my Mussleborough leeks actually grow any bigger by January?
2. Should I pull the rest of my small Golden Ball turnips now?
3. Are there vegetables I should choose/avoid with this site?

Thanks!

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com

Steve Harris wrote:

My vegetable plot gets no direct sun from November-February inclusive.
Part of the plot has a further 2 months of gloom.

Questions:

1. Will my Mussleborough leeks actually grow any bigger by January?
2. Should I pull the rest of my small Golden Ball turnips now?
3. Are there vegetables I should choose/avoid with this site?

Thanks!

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com

Most of our walled kitchen garden is like that. Don't let it bother you. I'd leave
the turnips and leeks in. Your leeks might have a bit more growing in them, the
limiting factor might be various rots if the soil is very wet - white rot is the
real killer, if that's not present there shouldn't be a real problem. Perhaps
don't expect Musselburgh leeks to go much past the end of January.
Overwintering crops that just stand over winter will be OK, overwintering crops
like spring cabbages that are trying to grow won't be quite so easy. Autumn son
Broad beans are fine - they don't do much growing 'til after Christmas anyway.
You need to pick your spots for early spring crops and things that need lots of
sun.
Only slightly on topic my daughter & son in law have just bought a good old Howard
350 rotavator for their allotment from a guy in Leckhampton. He has sheds *full*
of old rotavators he's gradually sorting out and selling on ebay.

--
Rod
http://website.lineone.net/~rodcraddock/

In article ,
(Rod) wrote:

limiting factor might be various rots if the soil is very wet

No problem here - sandy free-draining soil

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com

In article , (Steve Harris) writes:
| My vegetable plot gets no direct sun from November-February inclusive.
| Part of the plot has a further 2 months of gloom.
|
| Questions:
|
| 1. Will my Mussleborough leeks actually grow any bigger by January?

No, but they won't grow significantly even in full sun. The sun is
too anaemic to be of much use in the UK over that period.

| 2. Should I pull the rest of my small Golden Ball turnips now?

It depends on whether you are likely to get a serious frost.

| 3. Are there vegetables I should choose/avoid with this site?

It depends on what the light is like from March to October.
Direct versus indirect winter sun isn't a major issue in the UK,
as it is effectively useless anyway. The matter is VERY important
in spring, summer and autumn.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

In article ,
(Nick Maclaren) wrote:

Will my Mussleborough leeks actually grow any bigger by January?

No, but they won't grow significantly even in full sun. The sun is
too anaemic to be of much use in the UK over that period.

Thanks, so to complete my understanding, the reason Mussleborough
harvest is recommended for January is:

1. They may not be bigger but they'll have matured to a finer taste?
2. They will be *available* in January while an Autumn variety would rot
or freeze?

If #2 is the reason, why not simply plant a late variety and harvest any
time between September and April that takes your fancy?

Thanks again!

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com

In article , (Steve Harris) writes:
| In article ,
| (Nick Maclaren) wrote:
|
| Will my Mussleborough leeks actually grow any bigger by January?
|
| No, but they won't grow significantly even in full sun. The sun is
| too anaemic to be of much use in the UK over that period.
|
| Thanks, so to complete my understanding, the reason Mussleborough
| harvest is recommended for January is:
|
| 1. They may not be bigger but they'll have matured to a finer taste?
| 2. They will be *available* in January while an Autumn variety would rot
| or freeze?
|
| If #2 is the reason, why not simply plant a late variety and harvest any
| time between September and April that takes your fancy?

You can, though leeks will start to form seed heads as soon as they
start to grow in the spring. They remain fine for eating until
the shoot starts to turn woody.

There is likely to be some difference in hardiness, but most leeks
will overwinter. I doubt that there is much difference in flavour,
so much as they ARE available in late winter and early spring, when
previous little else is.

No, I don't know the details of which is best and what the problems
are, but I don't think that the differences are large.


Regards,
Nick Maclaren.

Thanks!

Steve Harris - Cheltenham - Real address steve AT netservs DOT com