Grateful for any advice.

I'm planning over the next couple of months to plant a reasonable
number of fruit trees along the wall of my garden.

The main wall is about 5-6ft high,almost 100ft long and faces west.

There is a second section - approx same height and around 30ft long
facing north.

Not exactly a Victorian walled garden - if only! - but I think could
work well nonetheless.

I live in central London so extreme low temperatures in winter are
fairly unusual (although clearly nothing is guaranteed).

I would like to grow a good variety of fruit trees - apples, pears,
peaches, apricots, plums, figs, grapes + possibly some soft fruit -
raspberries, blackberries, etc.

Some questions:
* is now-ish a good time to get digging & planting?
* how easy is it to train a fig tree along a wall? I've had a free
standing one before but it was quite in an exposed spot 400ft ASL and
although it survived it didn't really prosper
* what sort of rootstock to go for? Will I be best with the really
dwarfing types & am I also right in thinking that they'll give me a
crop sooner?
* how to choose the right "shape" of tree - fans, espaliers, etc.?
(this is a real mystery to me)
* how will the more delicate trees (peaches, figs, grapes) fare on a
west facing wall in a wet & windy winter??
* I've not grown olives before but I've heard rumours that it can be
done and that with a great deal of TLC & a bit of luck with the weather
they can even be persuaded to crop - is this true or just wishful
thinking?
* what's the best way to support the trees? Hoops & wires along the
wall?
* Will the north facing wall be a dead loss for fruit trees? Or is
there something that will thrive there?
* How close to plant the trees together?

Lots of questions I know...

Alternatively, if I wanted to enlist the help of a professional in
laying the thing out & generally holding my hand, how would I go about
it & what might it cost (design work only - I can do the digging &
planting myself)? Any recommendations (of individuals)? Ironically,
Tommy Walsh only lives a couple of streets away from me, but
unfortunately I don't have room for decking & a pergola!

Thanks v much,

KF

In article , Alan
writes

I would like to grow a good variety of fruit trees - apples, pears,
peaches, apricots, plums, figs, grapes + possibly some soft fruit -
raspberries, blackberries, etc.

Some questions:
* is now-ish a good time to get digging & planting?

Yes. You need to plant by the end of the dormant season, ie about March,
so start digging and preparing the soil now.

* what sort of rootstock to go for? Will I be best with the really
dwarfing types & am I also right in thinking that they'll give me a
crop sooner?

It depends on how high you want the final tree - do you want to keep
them down below wall height? I'd have thought with apples you'd be fine
to let them get taller, and that gives you more tree to bear a crop.

* how will the more delicate trees (peaches, figs, grapes) fare on a
west facing wall in a wet & windy winter??

With grapes, it's the hot summer that is more important. They can cope
with cold. Wind shouldn't be a problem as they'll have no leaves. Don't
know about wet - do you mean your soil gets waterlogged in winter or are
you talking about lots of rain that drains away well?

Fig should be fine. I have one at 400 ft on a S facing terrace in
Yorkshire. It's cropping well.


Lots of questions I know...

You know about the need for a pollination partner for apples and pears?
- if not, ask!
--
Kay
"Do not insult the crocodile until you have crossed the river"

Alan wrote:

Grateful for any advice.

I'm planning over the next couple of months to plant a reasonable
number of fruit trees along the wall of my garden.

The main wall is about 5-6ft high,almost 100ft long and faces west.

There is a second section - approx same height and around 30ft long
facing north.

Not exactly a Victorian walled garden - if only! - but I think could
work well nonetheless.

I live in central London so extreme low temperatures in winter are
fairly unusual (although clearly nothing is guaranteed).

I would like to grow a good variety of fruit trees - apples, pears,
peaches, apricots, plums, figs, grapes + possibly some soft fruit -
raspberries, blackberries, etc.

Some questions:
* is now-ish a good time to get digging & planting?
* how easy is it to train a fig tree along a wall? I've had a free
standing one before but it was quite in an exposed spot 400ft ASL and
although it survived it didn't really prosper
* what sort of rootstock to go for? Will I be best with the really
dwarfing types & am I also right in thinking that they'll give me a
crop sooner?
* how to choose the right "shape" of tree - fans, espaliers, etc.?
(this is a real mystery to me)
* how will the more delicate trees (peaches, figs, grapes) fare on a
west facing wall in a wet & windy winter??
* I've not grown olives before but I've heard rumours that it can be
done and that with a great deal of TLC & a bit of luck with the weather
they can even be persuaded to crop - is this true or just wishful
thinking?
* what's the best way to support the trees? Hoops & wires along the
wall?
* Will the north facing wall be a dead loss for fruit trees? Or is
there something that will thrive there?
* How close to plant the trees together?

Lots of questions I know...

Alternatively, if I wanted to enlist the help of a professional in
laying the thing out & generally holding my hand, how would I go about
it & what might it cost (design work only - I can do the digging &
planting myself)? Any recommendations (of individuals)? Ironically,
Tommy Walsh only lives a couple of streets away from me, but
unfortunately I don't have room for decking & a pergola!

Thanks v much,

KF
Three years ago I planted pears, plum, sweet cherry and peach along a
SSE facing wall, being trained as espalier in the case of the pears and
the rest fan. I have a very good book The Royal Hort. Soc. Pruning and
Training. However the trees don't always grow the way they should! :-(
I bought mine from Ken Muir, pre-trained, he throws quite a good book in
with the order, or did. However if I did it again I would by 1 year
maidens, if there is somewhere near it would be ideal to go and choose.
They just started fruiting this year in earnest, if the wasps had not
eaten 60% of the peaches and 100% of the plums I would have done well.
The peaches were the biggest success, though peach leaf curl is a
problem. This is in the low area of North Staffordshire.
Best train them along horizontal wires stood off a few inches from the
walls. The espalier wires need tightening with strainers, but the fans
are fine with hand tightened wires.

"Alan" wrote in message
. ..
Grateful for any advice.

I'm planning over the next couple of months to plant a reasonable
number of fruit trees along the wall of my garden.

Good for you !

The main wall is about 5-6ft high,almost 100ft long and faces west.

There is a second section - approx same height and around 30ft long
facing north.

Not exactly a Victorian walled garden - if only! - but I think could
work well nonetheless.

I live in central London so extreme low temperatures in winter are
fairly unusual (although clearly nothing is guaranteed).

I would like to grow a good variety of fruit trees - apples, pears,
peaches, apricots, plums, figs, grapes + possibly some soft fruit -
raspberries, blackberries, etc.

Some questions:
* is now-ish a good time to get digging & planting?

You can order bare-root treesfrom various suppliers- they are cheaper &
you'll have a vastly wider range of varieties from which to pick. They'll
come in the next month or so, depending on the supplier's workload.

* how easy is it to train a fig tree along a wall? I've had a free
standing one before but it was quite in an exposed spot 400ft ASL and
although it survived it didn't really prosper

Fairly easy, but it will try and get out of bounds & you must constrain the
roots otherwise you'll get a monster.

* what sort of rootstock to go for? Will I be best with the really
dwarfing types & am I also right in thinking that they'll give me a
crop sooner?

Really dwarfing types can be a pain in the neck as the small root system
requires better feeding and watering than a more widespread one. On apple
I'd suggest a minimum of M26.

* how to choose the right "shape" of tree - fans, espaliers, etc.?

Growing along a wall demands an artificial shape for all the top fruit.
Apples & pears are generally best as espaliers, stone fruit as fans. Apples
& pears can also be grown as cordons (just one stem leaning over at say
45deg), which would give you a lot of varieties in a short wall space.

(this is a real mystery to me)
* how will the more delicate trees (peaches, figs, grapes) fare on a
west facing wall in a wet & windy winter??

Should be fine. Peach leaf curl can be a pain for peaches, and will
probably require spraying witha fungicide. The alternative is to cover them
in winter so that rain doesn't get on to them- some people use polythene on
a wooden framework, which isn't very scenic but works.

Using wires set off from the wall a little bit (as I think another poster
mentioned) will help air circulation & reduce fungus probs.

* I've not grown olives before but I've heard rumours that it can be
done and that with a great deal of TLC & a bit of luck with the weather
they can even be persuaded to crop - is this true or just wishful
thinking?

Dunno- I suspect that luck with the weather is more important than any
amount of tlc, as olives are very tough in the Med., and seem to grow on 3
stones and a bucket of sand.

* what's the best way to support the trees? Hoops & wires along the
wall?
* Will the north facing wall be a dead loss for fruit trees? Or is
there something that will thrive there?

Morello cherries, early plums, blackcurrants...

* How close to plant the trees together?

Depends on the rootstocks. You might consider medium size rootstocks (MM106
for apple, say) with soft fruit or even some herbs in between. MM106 about
12ft apart. Pears haven't got a real dwarfing rootstock commercially
available- about 12ft for them too on Quince A or C.

Lots of questions I know...

I'd encourage the plums and gages- eat them off the tree and you'll get a
sensation that you can't buy in any shop.

Alternatively, if I wanted to enlist the help of a professional in
laying the thing out & generally holding my hand, how would I go about
it & what might it cost (design work only - I can do the digging &
planting myself)? Any recommendations (of individuals)? Ironically,
Tommy Walsh only lives a couple of streets away from me, but
unfortunately I don't have room for decking & a pergola!




--
Anton
www.btinternet.com/~treesandfruit/

I'm jealous. We have had no wall, and I've had a small one built, but the
thought of having a go at over 100ft!!!!

Others have provided useful advice....

Alan wrote:
: * how easy is it to train a fig tree along a wall? I've had a free
: standing one before but it was quite in an exposed spot 400ft ASL and
: although it survived it didn't really prosper

Just add that the books recommend digging a hole aprox 75cm cube, lining
with flag stones round sides and at bottom, but leaving suitable holes for
drainage, then filling with builders rubble at bottom and good soil and
compost etc. Plant in this and it should constrain the roots sufficiently.
The builders rubble ensures calcium.

: * how to choose the right "shape" of tree - fans, espaliers, etc.?
: (this is a real mystery to me)

Best not to be perfectionist about it. On a wall its just to ensure even
spread on the wall. More Horizontal stems tend to encourage the growth of
fruiting bud/spurs

: * I've not grown olives before but I've heard rumours that it can be
: done and that with a great deal of TLC & a bit of luck with the weather
: they can even be persuaded to crop - is this true or just wishful
: thinking?

Errr why grow olives. Have you read up on the process that makes them
edible? see

http://www.oliveoilsource.com/olive_recipes_.htm


: * Will the north facing wall be a dead loss for fruit trees? Or is
: there something that will thrive there?

Grow white/redcurrants, and Morello Cherry. Raspberries can cope with some
shade, but fully north facing might be too much.

: * How close to plant the trees together?

depends on the root stock. Send off to various fruit tree nurseries for
catalogues and lists, some have advice on spacing etc.

cheers
Jim