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#16
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#17
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On 12/1/04 3:13 PM, in article ,
"nambucca" wrote: "hugh" ] wrote in message ... In message , Nick Gray writes "Laurie Moseley" wrote in message ... Last year my lawn started to get a lot of moss in it. So... 1. I dug a series of holes about a foot deep at roughly 9-inch intervals across my law and filled them with sand (NOT builders's sand), with the intention of improving the drainage (the soil is rather clayey round here, even though it has had a lot of sand on it in the past) 2. In the spring I dosed with a combined moss-killer, weed-killer, and lawn-feed. Over a few weeks, the moss went black, and seemed to have died. I raked out what I could of it. 3. In the autumn (about September), I scarified the lawn and again raked up all the thatch and dead moss that I could. Now, in late November, the moss has returned in all its glory, and seems to be both more abundant and widespread than ever. Yes, I know I could go for a moss (or camomile, or concrete) lawn, but I happen to like grass. Any suggestions of what to do, and when, would be most welcome. With thanks in advance Laurie Hi Laurie, Using a garden fork, aerate the lawn now and again in the spring, brush sand into the holes. In april, sow grass seed in the bare patches of your lawn (although it's a good idea to knock the moss back with a moss killer first, this will delay sowing new seed). Choose a seed mix that is suitable to your soil type, use and lawn location i.e. heavy soil, hard wearing shady etc. HTH Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk Hire a powered hollow tine aerator if you can find one. Much better and larger holes than a fork. Manual ones are OK if your lawn is not too large. You need to get plenty of sand into the surface to improve the drainage. Buy in bulk and cover it with enough to give it more than a passing resemblance to the Sahara desert. After 2 or 3 years of that you will begin to see an improvement. Clay soils are usually acidic, check your ph and add lime if necessary to bring it up to neutral. -- hugh Reply to address is valid at the time of posting But what about dry sandy soils on a gravel subbase mine is easily parched in summer because it drains so easily but a bog of moss in the winter ........ Very funny! |
#18
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On 12/2/04 1:04 AM, in article , "Nick
Maclaren" wrote: In article , nambucca wrote: But what about dry sandy soils on a gravel subbase mine is easily parched in summer because it drains so easily but a bog of moss in the winter ........ It is almost certainly heavily shaded in the winter, or their is a source of more water than just the rain. I have a similar, but less extreme, problem. You can do nothing except learn to love your moss. Regards, Nick Maclaren. Even funnier... |
#19
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#20
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On 2/12/04 12:23, in article , "Gary"
wrote: On 12/1/04 2:59 PM, in article , "Laurie Moseley" wrote: I've so far had 11 replies to my query on the above issue. They were helpful, either in giving me new advice, in confirming that what I had already been doing was sensible, or in making me feel that I was not alone. I think that I'll have to leave it till next spring to take the advice. The kindness of people rekindles one's faith in human nature. Laurie, I don't like it but some people on the WWW are playing games. And why not, they are not looking you in the face. And now you're telling those of us that gave an honest answer that you are going to wait until spring??? Sorry, you too must be a phony. It's news to me that there's some urg law that on receiving advice, one has to act upon it immediately. -- Sacha www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove the weeds to email me) |
#21
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hugh wrote:
In message , Nick Gray writes "Laurie Moseley" wrote in message ... Last year my lawn started to get a lot of moss in it. So... 1. I dug a series of holes about a foot deep at roughly 9-inch intervals across my law and filled them with sand (NOT builders's sand), with the intention of improving the drainage (the soil is rather clayey round here, even though it has had a lot of sand on it in the past) 2. In the spring I dosed with a combined moss-killer, weed-killer, and lawn-feed. Over a few weeks, the moss went black, and seemed to have died. I raked out what I could of it. 3. In the autumn (about September), I scarified the lawn and again raked up all the thatch and dead moss that I could. Now, in late November, the moss has returned in all its glory, and seems to be both more abundant and widespread than ever. Yes, I know I could go for a moss (or camomile, or concrete) lawn, but I happen to like grass. Any suggestions of what to do, and when, would be most welcome. With thanks in advance Laurie Hi Laurie, Using a garden fork, aerate the lawn now and again in the spring, brush sand into the holes. In april, sow grass seed in the bare patches of your lawn (although it's a good idea to knock the moss back with a moss killer first, this will delay sowing new seed). Choose a seed mix that is suitable to your soil type, use and lawn location i.e. heavy soil, hard wearing shady etc. HTH Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk Hire a powered hollow tine aerator if you can find one. Much better and larger holes than a fork. Manual ones are OK if your lawn is not too large. You need to get plenty of sand into the surface to improve the drainage. Buy in bulk and cover it with enough to give it more than a passing resemblance to the Sahara desert. After 2 or 3 years of that you will begin to see an improvement. Clay soils are usually acidic, check your ph and add lime if necessary to bring it up to neutral. What type of sand are you saying to cover the lawn with, builders or sharp sand? I only ask because I have or had a moss problem last year, and I may need to do the same this next spring. Thanks -- Bob H Leeds UK |
#22
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Hi Laurie, Using a garden fork, aerate the lawn now and again in the spring, brush sand into the holes. In april, sow grass seed in the bare patches of your lawn (although it's a good idea to knock the moss back with a moss killer first, this will delay sowing new seed). Choose a seed mix that is suitable to your soil type, use and lawn location i.e. heavy soil, hard wearing shady etc. HTH Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk Hire a powered hollow tine aerator if you can find one. Much better and larger holes than a fork. Manual ones are OK if your lawn is not too large. You need to get plenty of sand into the surface to improve the drainage. Buy in bulk and cover it with enough to give it more than a passing resemblance to the Sahara desert. After 2 or 3 years of that you will begin to see an improvement. Clay soils are usually acidic, check your ph and add lime if necessary to bring it up to neutral. What type of sand are you saying to cover the lawn with, builders or sharp sand? I only ask because I have or had a moss problem last year, and I may need to do the same this next spring. Thanks -- Bob H Leeds UK Hi Bob, Don't use builders sand. Use sharp or a medium fine sand, make sure it's been washed (to remove some of the salts) - bagged sand has normally been washed. Lawn sand is available, but it's more expensive. It contains ferrous and ammonium sulphate. The ferrous sulphate to control moss and ammonium sulphate to feed the lawn, it should only really be used in spring, applying it at other times isn't as effective. HTH Nick http://www.ukgardening.co.uk |
#23
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#24
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In article , Bill writes: | | Gary keep on being 'rude', if that is what it's called, but you have made | some valid points. I personally think that putting sand on now or in the | spring really won't make that much of a difference either way. But I do know | for sure that "walking around on saturated lawns will compact the soil and | encourage moss" is Janet's fantasy. How can a water filled lawn be | compacted? It cannot...too much water. Hello, think about it. That is NOT true. In my garden, walking on saturated soil does pack it, which is why I have to wait until it starts to dry out in spring before cultivating it. The reason is that it is a 'light' soil (and therefore does compact), but contains enough clay to bind. Regards, Nick Maclaren. |
#25
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On 7/12/04 11:16, in article , "Nick
Maclaren" wrote: In article , Bill writes: | | Gary keep on being 'rude', if that is what it's called, but you have made | some valid points. I personally think that putting sand on now or in the | spring really won't make that much of a difference either way. But I do know | for sure that "walking around on saturated lawns will compact the soil and | encourage moss" is Janet's fantasy. How can a water filled lawn be | compacted? It cannot...too much water. Hello, think about it. That is NOT true. In my garden, walking on saturated soil does pack it, which is why I have to wait until it starts to dry out in spring before cultivating it. The reason is that it is a 'light' soil (and therefore does compact), but contains enough clay to bind. Don't waste your time any more. If you look at the headers you will see that 'Gary' and 'Bill' seem to be one and the same person. From Gary's post: NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.59.144.74 From Bill's post: NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.59.144.74 From both: X-Complaints-To: X-Trace: pd7tw2no 1101893947 64.59.144.74 X-Trace: pd7tw1no 1102416522 64.59.144.74 Personally, I can't see why urg should bother with people like this. -- Sacha www.hillhousenursery.co.uk South Devon (remove the weeds to email me) |
#26
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In article , Bill
writes Gary keep on being 'rude', if that is what it's called, but you have made some valid points. I personally think that putting sand on now or in the spring really won't make that much of a difference either way. But I do know for sure that "walking around on saturated lawns will compact the soil and encourage moss" is Janet's fantasy. How can a water filled lawn be compacted? It cannot...too much water. Hello, think about it. I am. This means you cannot squeeze a water filled sponge - too much water in it. -- Kay "Do not insult the crocodile until you have crossed the river" |
#28
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In message , Sacha
writes On 7/12/04 11:16, in article , "Nick Maclaren" wrote: In article , Bill writes: | | Gary keep on being 'rude', if that is what it's called, but you have made | some valid points. I personally think that putting sand on now or in the | spring really won't make that much of a difference either way. But I do know | for sure that "walking around on saturated lawns will compact the soil and | encourage moss" is Janet's fantasy. How can a water filled lawn be | compacted? It cannot...too much water. Hello, think about it. That is NOT true. In my garden, walking on saturated soil does pack it, which is why I have to wait until it starts to dry out in spring before cultivating it. The reason is that it is a 'light' soil (and therefore does compact), but contains enough clay to bind. Don't waste your time any more. If you look at the headers you will see that 'Gary' and 'Bill' seem to be one and the same person. From Gary's post: NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.59.144.74 From Bill's post: NNTP-Posting-Host: 64.59.144.74 From both: X-Complaints-To: X-Trace: pd7tw2no 1101893947 64.59.144.74 X-Trace: pd7tw1no 1102416522 64.59.144.74 Personally, I can't see why urg should bother with people like this. Well spotted Sacha. Not a very bright troll. -- hugh Reply to address is valid at the time of posting |
#29
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Go down to your local nursery or hardware pick up some copper sulphate and
put a tablespoon in a bucket of water this should reduce the problem when watered on as it will kill the moss but not the grass even in winter this is why they use copper sulfate as a waterbed anti mould we tried it last year and worked a charm "Laurie Moseley" wrote in message ... I've so far had 11 replies to my query on the above issue. They were helpful, either in giving me new advice, in confirming that what I had already been doing was sensible, or in making me feel that I was not alone. I think that I'll have to leave it till next spring to take the advice. The kindness of people rekindles one's faith in human nature. Thanks, everyone Laurie |
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