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#1
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What can I do to improve compacted soil?
My plot was the 'compound' during site development (the one place
where the builders draw off water and electricity). Over the inevitable builder's rubble the developer laid a load of topsoil, which has become compacted. There aren't many worms in it! How might I improve aeration of the soil? I bought a soil aerator yesterday and it works well, as the ground is very soft after all the rain. But is it really going to do any good? I read somewhere that forking in some organic matter could be useful. Would one of the bark-based compost products be the right thing to use? MM |
#2
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In article , MM
writes My plot was the 'compound' during site development (the one place where the builders draw off water and electricity). Over the inevitable builder's rubble the developer laid a load of topsoil, which has become compacted. There aren't many worms in it! How might I improve aeration of the soil? I bought a soil aerator yesterday and it works well, as the ground is very soft after all the rain. But is it really going to do any good? I read somewhere that forking in some organic matter could be useful. Would one of the bark-based compost products be the right thing to use? Worms will need higher humus levels, so a high humus mulch is the way to go. Don't fork it in - once the worms arrive (which they will do if you provide the humus) they will do that for you. Bark based compost is fine but an expensive way to do it - you should be thinking in terms of a six inch layer at least. Get hold of anything free that you can - basically anything with a high content of rotted or partially rotted plant material. If you can't get anything free, then treat a very small area where you are planning to plant, and start a compost heap! You can add almost anything to your compost heap - weeds (let thick roots dry out first to make sure they're thoroughly dead), vegetable peelings, soft paper and cardboard, grass cuttings. Go for as big a heap as you can cope with, as near cube shaped as possible - you want to have a big volume and a small surface area. You should get something useable as a mulch in 6 months - this means you could plant now, adding some bark or coir based compost to the planting holes, and mulch round plants come the autumn. Keep on mulching over the years and you will see your soil gradually improve. You could try the route of complaining to the developer about the quality of top soil - top soil should have more humus than that. -- Kay "Do not insult the crocodile until you have crossed the river" |
#3
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On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:30:32 +0000, MM wrote:
My plot was the 'compound' during site development (the one place where the builders draw off water and electricity). Over the inevitable builder's rubble the developer laid a load of topsoil, which has become compacted. There aren't many worms in it! How might I improve aeration of the soil? I bought a soil aerator yesterday and it works well, as the ground is very soft after all the rain. But is it really going to do any good? I read somewhere that forking in some organic matter could be useful. Would one of the bark-based compost products be the right thing to use? Additional to the above, what should I put in the holes left after removing the cores with the aerator? Grit was one suggestion. At the moment I have just left them 'as is', thinking of raking loose topsoil and/or compost over the surface and raking when the weather dries out some more. MM |
#4
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On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 12:08:28 +0000, Kay
wrote: In article , MM writes My plot was the 'compound' during site development (the one place where the builders draw off water and electricity). Over the inevitable builder's rubble the developer laid a load of topsoil, which has become compacted. There aren't many worms in it! How might I improve aeration of the soil? I bought a soil aerator yesterday and it works well, as the ground is very soft after all the rain. But is it really going to do any good? I read somewhere that forking in some organic matter could be useful. Would one of the bark-based compost products be the right thing to use? Worms will need higher humus levels, so a high humus mulch is the way to go. Don't fork it in - once the worms arrive (which they will do if you provide the humus) they will do that for you. Bark based compost is fine but an expensive way to do it - you should be thinking in terms of a six inch layer at least. Get hold of anything free that you can - basically anything with a high content of rotted or partially rotted plant material. If you can't get anything free, then treat a very small area where you are planning to plant, and start a compost heap! You can add almost anything to your compost heap - weeds (let thick roots dry out first to make sure they're thoroughly dead), vegetable peelings, soft paper and cardboard, grass cuttings. Go for as big a heap as you can cope with, as near cube shaped as possible - you want to have a big volume and a small surface area. You should get something useable as a mulch in 6 months - this means you could plant now, adding some bark or coir based compost to the planting holes, and mulch round plants come the autumn. Keep on mulching over the years and you will see your soil gradually improve. All very useful points. The only problem is that I would like a lawn as soon as possible WITHOUT using turf! (I just like the idea of sowing seed and I've done it before several times, so I know it produces a nice lawn that establishes itself after only a year or so.) You could try the route of complaining to the developer about the quality of top soil - top soil should have more humus than that. I think he'd cut more corners, create a terrible mess removing the existing Mississippi Mud Pie, and perhaps exacerbate the situation. Also, by solving the problem myself, reading some books, asking questions, trying things out, I shall have a better sense of achievement. MM |
#5
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"MM" wrote in message ... On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:30:32 +0000, MM wrote: My plot was the 'compound' during site development (the one place where the builders draw off water and electricity). Over the inevitable builder's rubble the developer laid a load of topsoil, which has become compacted. There aren't many worms in it! How might I improve aeration of the soil? I bought a soil aerator yesterday and it works well, as the ground is very soft after all the rain. But is it really going to do any good? I read somewhere that forking in some organic matter could be useful. Would one of the bark-based compost products be the right thing to use? Additional to the above, what should I put in the holes left after removing the cores with the aerator? Grit was one suggestion. At the moment I have just left them 'as is', thinking of raking loose topsoil and/or compost over the surface and raking when the weather dries out some more. MM If theres loads of rubble underneath you would be better to remove that first then dig or rotovate the entire lot theres no substitute for good preparation if you want a lawn to look good and stay good If you have a riding school or livery stables nearby you should be able to get loads of free rotted stable manure to dig in but at this time of year you need to dig it in really well and you cant easily dig in straw bedding like you can shavings |
#6
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On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 11:30:32 +0000, MM wrote:
My plot was the 'compound' during site development (the one place where the builders draw off water and electricity). Over the inevitable builder's rubble the developer laid a load of topsoil, which has become compacted. There aren't many worms in it! How might I improve aeration of the soil? I bought a soil aerator yesterday and it works well, as the ground is very soft after all the rain. But is it really going to do any good? I read somewhere that forking in some organic matter could be useful. Would one of the bark-based compost products be the right thing to use? MM I'd want to bust up the 'compound' area and remove the worst of the rubbish. It's easier to do now than it ever will be again so grit your teeth and get on with it even if it means not sowing your grass 'til August (that's probably a slightly better time than now anyway.) You can keep the topsoil -such as it is on top if you double dig the plot, removing the rubble and busting up the bottom spit as you move your trench along the plot. This is going to give you a summer of healthy exercise and a much better easier to maintain garden in the long term. ================================================= Rod Weed my email address to reply. http://website.lineone.net/~rodcraddock/index.html |
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