Greetings all,

I am trying to develop my first bonsai (pl.) In Spring 2004, and Fall 2004,
I have collected a number of relatively small (cca 6cm, 2.3in diameter) plants
of native species (maples, elms, hawthorns, hornbeams) to start practicing.
They have been growing in the ground since then without much work done on
them. The next Spring, I would like to perform trunk chops. On the other
hand, I will be moving the plants to another location (also in the ground),
and so I would like to check the roots (maybe trim the straight downward ones)
and plant the trees over a tile (or, possibly, in a basket?).
Do you think it is safe to perform both actions? Or should I just move the
plants and wait another season for the chopping?

Cheers,
Rastislav

-------------
Bratislava, Slovakia
Central Europe
zone 6-7

coordinates: 17 7´ E, 48 9´ N
elevation: 126-514 m (413.4-1686 ft)
avg temp January: -1.6C (29.12F)
avg temp July: 20.1C (68.18F)
avg temp overall: 10.3C (50.54F)
sunshine: 1976.4 hr/year
rainfall: 527.4 mm/year (20.76 in/year)

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Rastislav Kralovic wrote:
Greetings all,

I am trying to develop my first bonsai (pl.) In Spring 2004, and Fall 2004,
I have collected a number of relatively small (cca 6cm, 2.3in diameter) plants
of native species (maples, elms, hawthorns, hornbeams) to start practicing.
They have been growing in the ground since then without much work done on
them. The next Spring, I would like to perform trunk chops. On the other
hand, I will be moving the plants to another location (also in the ground),
and so I would like to check the roots (maybe trim the straight downward ones)
and plant the trees over a tile (or, possibly, in a basket?).
Do you think it is safe to perform both actions? Or should I just move the
plants and wait another season for the chopping?

Cheers,
Rastislav


I'd consider transplanting them in early spring, then
chopping them in LATE spring or early summer. That should
allow a few weeks for them to "take" in their new ground.

Depending on the length of your growing season, you may need
to give them some winter protection over the next winter.

Jim Lewis - - This economy is a wholly
owned subsidiary of the environment. - Gaylord Nelson

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Rastislav,

You can do both actions at the same time, but if you want to get the most
vigorous response from your trunk chops you should do them before you dig up
the trees and move them. Chop this spring, dig and move the following
spring. Or, dig and move this spring and chop the following spring.

The reason for that is that when you chop back prior to moving them, the
trees will have maximum stored energy in the root system to sustain the tree
and to push new buds and shoots. When you dig and move the tree without
chopping the trunk back, the trees have maximum food producing capability to
help regenerate the root system.

So, the bottom line is that for the health of the trees it is better not to
do both at the same time.

Regards,
Roger Snipes
Spokane, WA. Zone 5-ish

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rastislav Kralovic"

I am trying to develop my first bonsai (pl.) In Spring 2004, and Fall
2004,
I have collected a number of relatively small (cca 6cm, 2.3in diameter)
plants
of native species (maples, elms, hawthorns, hornbeams) to start
practicing.
They have been growing in the ground since then without much work done on
them. The next Spring, I would like to perform trunk chops. On the other
hand, I will be moving the plants to another location (also in the
ground),
and so I would like to check the roots (maybe trim the straight downward
ones)
and plant the trees over a tile (or, possibly, in a basket?).
Do you think it is safe to perform both actions? Or should I just move the
plants and wait another season for the chopping?

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by John Romano++++
************************************************** ******************************
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ --
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Thank you all for your advice.

I'll move the plants in early spring, and then I'll see. If they respond well,
I may chop (some of) them in late spring, otherwise I'll wait until the next
season.

Rastislav

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************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

Hi Rastislav,

I have little bonsai experience, but here's what I would do: Since you
seem to have several trees to work with, I would experiment a bit. Take
all the advice you have been given but apply only one method to each
tree

Regards,
Steve








I am trying to develop my first bonsai (pl.) In Spring 2004, and Fall
2004,
I have collected a number of relatively small (cca 6cm, 2.3in
diameter) plants
of native species (maples, elms, hawthorns, hornbeams) to start
practicing.
They have been growing in the ground since then without much work
done on
them. The next Spring, I would like to perform trunk chops. On the
other
hand, I will be moving the plants to another location (also in the
ground),
and so I would like to check the roots (maybe trim the straight
downward ones)
and plant the trees over a tile (or, possibly, in a basket?).
Do you think it is safe to perform both actions? Or should I just
move the
plants and wait another season for the chopping?

************************************************** *********************
*********
++++Sponsored, in part, by John Romano++++
************************************************** *********************
*********
-- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/
--
+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail
+++++

************************************************** ******************************
++++Sponsored, in part, by John Romano++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++

I used this approach on a few Red Maple voluteers that I've had in the
ground for a few years. This spring I transplanted them to a growing
bed. One of them I did severe root pruning, removing all the major
meaty roots, this one was the largest of the three. The next smallest
I didn't disturb the root ball at all. The third and smallest I root
pruned a little but didn't remove any major roots.

As others have mentioned the one that has put on the most growth this
year is the middle sized one which I did the least amount of root work
on, it has tripled in sized, and surpased the largest one. Infact the
smallest one in the spring has grown past what was the largest one
that I did the sever root pruning to.

However the one that I did the most root pruning to has been much much
more stable. It has had very little leaf curl from dry periods, and no
real signs of distress just nice healthy leaes all summer long. The
other two that I did no root work to have strugled with wilting and
leaf curl during the hottest parts of the summer.

All in all I'd say that for the health of the plant doing root work is
worth sacraficing the amount of growth. Hopefully in two years I will
have a nice forest or group planting of Red Maples.

And If I were transplanting I wouldn't trunk chop in the same year. As
Keith Scott said recently in a workshop, Leaves make Roots, Roots
don't make leaves.

-Ethan


--
Ethan Smith, Columbus, Ohio
USDA Zone 6, Sunset 35 & 41
but wait around, it may feel more like zone 2 or even 9?

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++++Sponsored, in part, by John Romano++++
************************************************** ******************************
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+++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++