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#1
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
I'm new, and think the boxwoods i've put in pots are ok ... all
i did was cut them, dip into the hormone, put in a finger hole in the soil, and pack the soil in. Are my boxwoods doomed ? Also, how much rooting hormone is enough ? I'm being pretty liberal with it, and i know that with plants, often too much is bad! Your boxwoods will be fine. They'll root without rooting hormone. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Our life is frittered away by detail . . . . Simplify! Simplify. -- Henry David Thoreau - Walden ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#2
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
At 02:39 PM 4/8/03 -0700, Allen wrote:
I just read in a post regarding taking cuttings to "Scrape the top layer of bark with a razor to expose the green cadmium before applying rooting hormone" I'm new, and think the boxwoods i've put in pots are ok ... all i did was cut them, dip into the hormone, put in a finger hole in the soil, and pack the soil in. Are my boxwoods doomed ? Also, how much rooting hormone is enough ? I'm being pretty liberal with it, and i know that with plants, often too much is bad! Allen Scraping the bark or removing a thin strip of bark is a technique know as 'wounding'. It does seem to be beneficial for some species, notably Acer palmatum, but I am not as fond of it as I used to be. Often is appears to be unnecessary and when it does work you end up with one sided roots. It is NOT necessary for Buxus, which are easy to root and only a low concentration of hormone or none at all is required. I recommend that you use something like Rootone or Hormex 1 or 3. Dip to about 1/2 inch with the cutting wet, then tap the base of the cutting to knock off the excess. And yes, too much can be bad, but with hormones it is usually the strength rather than the quantity that is dangerous. For much more information on cutting propagation in general, there is an article at my website: http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/cuttings.htm Brent in Northern California Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14 http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#3
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
Thanks Brent for your much valued input. Your reading and experience all
fit with my (small scale) successes. A couple of things I would add for those just starting out in this. Timing is one of the most critical aspects for most cuttings. Though successes may be had at other times of year, taking them at the optimum time really increases the chances of a good strike rate. Good shrub and tree books should have a section on propagation and timings for many species can be found in these. As well as being fraught with problems it is still great fun and a very satisfying way of increasing stocks of suitable specimens. Cheers Kev Bailey Vale Of Clwyd, North Wales, Zone9 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.467 / Virus Database: 266 - Release Date: 01/04/2003 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#4
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
At 08:33 PM 4/9/03 +0100, kevin bailey wrote:
... A couple of things I would add for those just starting out in this. Timing is one of the most critical aspects for most cuttings. Though successes may be had at other times of year, taking them at the optimum time really increases the chances of a good strike rate. Good shrub and tree books should have a section on propagation and timings for many species can be found in these... Kevin Absolutely true. Timing can be crucial. In my experience the best time for most woody species (all other factors being equal) is semi hardwood stage in early summer. This is the time of the year when the first set of leaves have hardened off and plants are taking a breath before starting another growth spurt. In my part of the world, this late May and early June. Strike rates are usually still good through July. By August it is getting too late for a high success rate, but plants still do root. Sept is miserable, not worth the effort. I don't do hardwoods in winter very often, but cuttings can be taken after leaf drop in the fall and stored over the winter and planted out in early spring. This is not a common practice anymore, but it can still be done for many woody species. Timing for a few species is absolutely crucial. Birches seem to have a very narrow window in summer, just prior to end bud set. This is a period of only about two weeks. There are just an incredible number of tricks to successful propagation, but hey, it's fun. Brent in Northern California Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14 http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#5
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
A couple of things I would add for those just starting out in
this. Timing is one of the most critical aspects for most cuttings. Though successes may be had at other times of year, taking them at the optimum time really increases the chances of a good strike rate. Good shrub and tree books should have a section on propagation and timings for many species can be found in these. As well as being fraught with problems it is still great fun and a very satisfying way of increasing stocks of suitable specimens. On the other hand, if you are trimming a plant and have left-overs that might make good cuttings, it doesn't hurt to try them at ANY time of the year. No sense wasting anything -- especially if it is waste in the first place. ;-) Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Our life is frittered away by detail . . . . Simplify! Simplify. -- Henry David Thoreau - Walden ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#6
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
On the other hand, if you are trimming a plant and have
left-overs that might make good cuttings, it doesn't hurt to try them at ANY time of the year. No sense wasting anything -- especially if it is waste in the first place. ;-) Ha ha, try telling my wife that ;-) My driveway and path to the front door regularly gets so jammed with stuff that I've propagated that it takes a Herculanean effort to appease her and allow the posty in. In the last couple of years I've started to delight in NOT keeping all the bits I'm trimming. If I did, I'd have to move to a larger house (again!). This self discipline has taken me years to achieve and is still hard to master. Example, once I'd discovered that snapping off new growth from my collection of 20 varieties of Satsuki's would root easily, it grew to more than 400 plants in a couple of years. Each spring I run out of pots, feed, soil, patience and eventually decided that the only sensible option was to sell them all! I kept the originals and one or two are starting to look worthwhile. I'll post to the gallery in the fifth month. Cheers Kev Bailey --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.467 / Virus Database: 266 - Release Date: 01/04/2003 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#7
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
Make a *garage sales* of pre- bonsai cuttings
kevin bailey wrote: On the other hand, if you are trimming a plant and have left-overs that might make good cuttings, it doesn't hurt to try them at ANY time of the year. No sense wasting anything -- especially if it is waste in the first place. ;-) Ha ha, try telling my wife that ;-) My driveway and path to the front door regularly gets so jammed with stuff that I've propagated that it takes a Herculanean effort to appease her and allow the posty in. In the last couple of years I've started to delight in NOT keeping all the bits I'm trimming. If I did, I'd have to move to a larger house (again!). This self discipline has taken me years to achieve and is still hard to master. Example, once I'd discovered that snapping off new growth from my collection of 20 varieties of Satsuki's would root easily, it grew to more than 400 plants in a couple of years. Each spring I run out of pots, feed, soil, patience and eventually decided that the only sensible option was to sell them all! I kept the originals and one or two are starting to look worthwhile. I'll post to the gallery in the fifth month. Cheers Kev Bailey --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.467 / Virus Database: 266 - Release Date: 01/04/2003 ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#9
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
How long will the cuttings take to root?. Couple weeks ago,
there was a Bonsai show at my local botanical garden here in So. Redondo Beach, and the speaker was using a cork tree. I took some cuttings(8) from him and I have it in a pot now, waiting for roots to come. He did tell me it will take some time. I didn't use any rooting hormone, but you say I'll be ok...so what about the watering. Is it the same, wait till its dry or do I keep it moist. Your answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks so much. What is a cork tree? I have no idea how long, whether, or how well cork trees root from cuttings. "Some time" could be as long as 4-5 months if it is a slow rooter. And some plants NEED rooting hormone. My earlier comment was for boxwood. Jim Lewis - - Tallahassee, FL - Our life is frittered away by detail . . . . Simplify! Simplify. -- Henry David Thoreau - Walden ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
#10
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[IBC] Cuttings from woody plants
At 02:34 AM 4/12/03 -0700, Tony Busko wrote:
How long will the cuttings take to root?. Couple weeks ago, there was a Bonsai show at my local botanical garden here in So. Redondo Beach, and the speaker was using a cork tree. I took some cuttings(8) from him and I have it in a pot now, waiting for roots to come. He did tell me it will take some time. I didn't use any rooting hormone, but you say I'll be ok...so what about the watering. Is it the same, wait till its dry or do I keep it moist. Your answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks so much. Tony Many of your questions will be answered by reading the Cutting Propagation article at my website: http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/cuttings.htm I can think of several species that might be called "cork tree". I would need to know the botanical name to give you more information on the species that you have. If it is cork oak, Quercus suber, you can pretty much forget it. The difficult to impossible to root from cuttings. Cuttings can root in as little as ten days to as much as three years depending on the species. I think you misread my previous post. I said that cuttings _can_ be rooted without hormone, but it depends on the species. Most species _cannot_ be rooted without applying hormone. Watering of course is the hardest part of starting cuttings. You are dealing with plant tissue that has no roots, no way to take up water except through capillary action at the base of the stem and through the pores of the leaves and stems. If you keep them in a normal plant environment, they will usually die before rooting. They are two major ways of dealing with semi hardwood cuttings (cuttings taken during the season of hardened new growth). The first is a mist system. This is different from getting out the spray bottle once or twice day. That will do virtually nothing. A mist system is a timed spray that typically will come on for about seven to ten seconds every fifteen minutes (during the day, it is off at night). This keep the leaf surface nearly continually wet. The second method is the cloche system. It involves keeping the humidity at near 100% by covering the cuttings with a plastic or glass frame. It should receive no direct sunlight and should be kept cool, as on the surface of the earth or under a bench. Various ingenious methods such as large plastic bottles cut in half work well. You should check daily to make sure the medium is staying wet. Hardwood cuttings are taken in winter. They are usually stored until late winter or early spring in cool damp cellars, packed in a medium like moist sawdust. They are taken out a few weeks before typical budbreak time and planted in the earth, although pots may work. Since there are no leaves to transpire, the elaborate systems above are not necessary. However, success depends greatly on your local climate. If you live in an area that can get hot and dry fast, you are going to have problems. If you have long cool, wet springs, you will have more success. The idea is to have the callused cuttings root before the buds break or at about the same time. Not all species can be rooted this way. In fact, the limitations of this system is what fueled the research for mist and cloche systems. Brent in Northern California Evergreen Gardenworks USDA Zone 8 Sunset Zone 14 http://www.EvergreenGardenworks.com ************************************************** ****************************** ++++Sponsored, in part, by Evergreen Gardenworks++++ ************************************************** ****************************** -- The IBC HOME PAGE & FAQ: http://www.internetbonsaiclub.org/ -- +++++ Questions? Help? e-mail +++++ |
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