Hello (Newsgroup, Betzi, Judy ...)

I planted two tomato plants in 5 gallon buckets this year. Soil is
finished compost with some sandy dirt from the yard. The plants were
one "yellow jelly" and one "early cascade."

Both plants are looking great and are covered with tomatos. I've eaten
a few yellow jelly's, and I see that a couple of the early cascades are
beginning to turn color.

But this morning I noticed blossom end rot on some of the fruit. It's
been hot in Albuquerque lately (record breaking temps in high 90's).
I've been watering heavily each morning but not later in the day.

So I'm wondering what I've done wrong. Should I water twice a day? Am
I watering too much? It does seem that the plant is using the amount
that I'm giving it. Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Susan

Sax Maam wrote:

Hello (Newsgroup, Betzi, Judy ...)

I planted two tomato plants in 5 gallon buckets this year. Soil is
finished compost with some sandy dirt from the yard. The plants were
one "yellow jelly" and one "early cascade."

Both plants are looking great and are covered with tomatos. I've eaten
a few yellow jelly's, and I see that a couple of the early cascades are
beginning to turn color.

But this morning I noticed blossom end rot on some of the fruit. It's
been hot in Albuquerque lately (record breaking temps in high 90's).
I've been watering heavily each morning but not later in the day.

So I'm wondering what I've done wrong. Should I water twice a day? Am
I watering too much? It does seem that the plant is using the amount
that I'm giving it. Any other ideas?


Blossom end rot is actually a calcium deficiency caused by improper
watering. Without constant moisture, the roots can't absorb enough
calcium from the soil and during the fruiting stage, this causes the rot.

I would recommend consistent light waterings over a single heavy one. I
also grow tomatoes in containers and I ensure the soil is always moist
to the touch (not soaking, not crusty dry). If the soil breaks away from
the sides or looks dry, then watering is not consistent enough. You
might consider adding some potting soil or peat to your pots next year.
It helps retain water very well. Also, don't reuse the same soil next year.

The good news...you can still eat the tomato. Just cut off the affected
portion.

..

Zone 5a in Canada's Far East

Hi,

So ... I've actually been completely consistent with my watering
(amazing for me, but so far it's true) but it sounds as though the
plants might be getting too dry later in the day. And maybe too wet in
the morning? Does this sound like a good explanation?

I can still add some potting soil at the top of the pots ... there's a
couple of inches that aren't filled with dirt.

About reusing soil: What do you think of adding that dirt back to my
compost pile in the fall?

Susan




cloud dreamer wrote:
Sax Maam wrote:

Hello (Newsgroup, Betzi, Judy ...)

I planted two tomato plants in 5 gallon buckets this year. Soil is
finished compost with some sandy dirt from the yard. The plants were
one "yellow jelly" and one "early cascade."

Both plants are looking great and are covered with tomatos. I've
eaten a few yellow jelly's, and I see that a couple of the early
cascades are beginning to turn color.

But this morning I noticed blossom end rot on some of the fruit. It's
been hot in Albuquerque lately (record breaking temps in high 90's).
I've been watering heavily each morning but not later in the day.

So I'm wondering what I've done wrong. Should I water twice a day?
Am I watering too much? It does seem that the plant is using the
amount that I'm giving it. Any other ideas?



Blossom end rot is actually a calcium deficiency caused by improper
watering. Without constant moisture, the roots can't absorb enough
calcium from the soil and during the fruiting stage, this causes the rot.

I would recommend consistent light waterings over a single heavy one. I
also grow tomatoes in containers and I ensure the soil is always moist
to the touch (not soaking, not crusty dry). If the soil breaks away from
the sides or looks dry, then watering is not consistent enough. You
might consider adding some potting soil or peat to your pots next year.
It helps retain water very well. Also, don't reuse the same soil next year.

The good news...you can still eat the tomato. Just cut off the affected
portion.

..

Zone 5a in Canada's Far East

On Wed, 07 Jun 2006 07:57:03 -0600, Sax Maam
wrote:

But this morning I noticed blossom end rot on some of the fruit.

Cloud Dreamer took the words right out of my mouth. Expect
losses of 50% or higher.

See http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-28-d.html for the
techie details. I hate, Hate, HATE that disease.
--
Gardening Zones
Canada Zone 5a
United States Zone 3a

Sax Maam wrote:
Hi,

So ... I've actually been completely consistent with my watering
(amazing for me, but so far it's true) but it sounds as though the
plants might be getting too dry later in the day. And maybe too wet in
the morning? Does this sound like a good explanation?


Absolutely. Maybe a little of both. Better to water evenly than the
extremes.


I can still add some potting soil at the top of the pots ... there's a
couple of inches that aren't filled with dirt.

It certainly wouldn't hurt. Potting soil and peat have a lot of
nutrients to add as well. The sand that you added wouldn't retain the
water at all and depending what is in the compost, it may not be
retaining enough water for a container plant. Tomatoes don't mind the
extra soil and after you add it, add mulch to the top. It'll help retain
moisture and also ensure water doesn't splash the soil on the leaves
(which is how some disease develops).


About reusing soil: What do you think of adding that dirt back to my
compost pile in the fall?

I never add the soil from my container potatoes or tomatoes to the
compost or to my raised beds. They could contain a number of soil-borne
diseases that both plants are famous for. I add the soil to my lawn. The
grass especially loves old potato soil.

The same applies to tomato and potato plants. I don't add those to the
compost either. They will also pass on disease to anything in the same
family that is planted with that compost. (Unless you have a really hot
compost pile and can be assured that composted tomato or potato
soil/plant parts will not be used in future potato/tomato beds/containers).

..

Zone 5a in Canada's Far East

Sax Maam wrote:
Ah ... thanks for the link.

I guess for now I'll mulch the soil and switch to two waterings a day,
testing for moisture with my fingers. The soil might be too rich. I
wonder if I should add lime or wait and see.

Opinions about that?

Susan

Jim Carter wrote:

On Wed, 07 Jun 2006 07:57:03 -0600, Sax Maam
wrote:


But this morning I noticed blossom end rot on some of the fruit.


Cloud Dreamer took the words right out of my mouth. Expect
losses of 50% or higher.

See http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-28-d.html for the
techie details. I hate, Hate, HATE that disease.
--
Gardening Zones
Canada Zone 5a
United States Zone 3a


See if you can find a calcium chloride spray for tomatoes. IIRC, one
brand is Security "Stop Rot". Mix it up in a sprinkling can according
to the directions and water the plants with it, getting it all over the
leaves. It won't help the fruits that already have BER but should help
prevent more from getting it.

A dose of Epsom salts also might help. Epsom salts contains magnesium,
which works synergistically with calcium.

Best regards,
Bob

On Wed, 07 Jun 2006 10:06:43 -0600, Sax Maam
wrote:

I
wonder if I should add lime or wait and see.

Opinions about that?

Let the soil pH be your guide. It is likely too high.
--
Gardening Zones
Canada Zone 5a
United States Zone 3a

"cloud dreamer" wrote in message
...
Blossom end rot is actually a calcium deficiency caused by improper
watering. Without constant moisture, the roots can't absorb enough
calcium from the soil and during the fruiting stage, this causes the rot.

I would recommend consistent light waterings over a single heavy one. I
also grow tomatoes in containers and I ensure the soil is always moist
to the touch (not soaking, not crusty dry). If the soil breaks away from
the sides or looks dry, then watering is not consistent enough. You
might consider adding some potting soil or peat to your pots next year.
It helps retain water very well. Also, don't reuse the same soil next
year.


Thank you for _not_ suggesting calcium be added to the soil.

While poor calcium uptake is responsible for BER, adding more to the soil
ain/t the solution. Like you said, maintaining proper is key.

In my experience, BER happens early in the season and goes away quickly on
its own.