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Late blight resistant tomatoes
In article
, fsadfa wrote: On Mar 11, 12:19*pm, Bill who putters wrote: In article , *Billy wrote: In article , *Bill who putters wrote: *Worth a look /try. http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7949-jto-99197-f1.aspx But it says JTO-99197 (F1) is resistant to early blight (not late) and that they are late maturing. If I was worried about late blight (I've never had to deal with it) that I'd want an early ripening tomato like Azoychka:60 days, Golden Bison:59 Days,Orange Banana:52 days http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to_orange.html Earliana:65 days, Extreme Bush:50 days, Glacier:55 days Stupice, Marmande:65 days, McGee:55 days, Moskvich:60 days, Polish Dwarf: 60 days, Siberia:50 days, Stick (or Curl):65 days, Stupice:50 days, Uralskiy Ranniy:51 days http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...to/tomato.html Black Cherry:65 days, Coyote:50 days, Gold Nugget:55 days, Green Grape:65 days, Green Grape:65 days, Red Grape:60 days, Tiny Tim:45 days http://www.victoryseeds.com/catalog/...ato_small.html Juliet (F1):60 Days to Maturity or Bloom http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7938-juliet-f1.aspx -- Water tomatoes around the base, not from above, to avoid prolonged wetting of leaves. -- Make sure to give plants space. -- Stake and prune to keep air circulating and plants dry. -- Destroy volunteer tomato and potato plants (they can carry the fungus), as well as plants that are obviously diseased. Put them in a plastic bag and into the trash. Do not compost them. -- Clean your gardening and pruning tools with alcohol or a 10-percent bleach solution. Do not prune your tomatoes without sanitizing the equipment. When there's a disease or pest that commonly affects plants, choose disease-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, in this case, there aren't any. http://blog.oregonlive.com/kympokorn...07/tomato.html Recent Organic Seed Alliance trials conducted in 2006 and 2007 in Washington State indicated that the tomato cultivars Stupice and Juliet have some resistance to foliar late blight. Juliet also exhibited some resistance to early blight (Alternaria solani). http://www.extension.org/article/18361 What to do if you think you have late blight The best thing to do is have an agrologist look at the plant to make certain it is actually late blight. This may involve having the University of Saskatchewan or the Crop Protection Lab take samples to make a positive identification. If a positive identification is made, then the plant should be pulled and bagged immediately. The plastic bag should be sealed tightly to ensure none of the spores escape. Without a living host, the spores will not last more than a day. The plants that were in direct contact with the infected plant should be pulled because there is a very high probability that they will also be infected. Although this will lessen the yield in your garden, it will potentially save the rest of the plants. Failure to remove these plants can cause the rest of your potatoes to become infected and die. You will also have an active infection that can easily spread and destroy your neighbours' crops. http://www.agriculture.gov.sk.ca/Def...09-36bd-4aa6-a eff -7e3da663f585 * Pruner tool cleaning seems to matter. http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%2...icultural%20My... files/Myths/Pruning%20tools.pdf I've never been a big fan of Linda Chalker-Scott, and this article does nothing to change my opinion. It could be that because of my experience with chlorine in wineries, I'm most comfortable with it (not that most wineries use chlorine anymore, most had switched over to bromine, and now to ozone). http://translate.google.com/translat.../bpsommelier.b logspot.com/2007/08/246-trichloroanisol-tca.html&ei=WRuZS7aGIYPetgOh_Pw_& sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CBoQ7gEw BQ&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dt richloroanisol%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26sa%3D X%26rls%3Den In any event, she was talking about field work, most of us gardeners work fairly close to our homes, and it wouldn't be that inconvenient to have a bucket of chlorine solution that wouldn't need to be moved. I would only add, chlorine should be rinsed-off with clean water after sterilizing, and, if not to be used again immediately, oiled. *Once I saw a hand pruner that was tied to a cleaner of *sorts but I thought it was excessive and not warranted . Tubes to cleaner solution as you cut. *Looking about I see folks selling lemon oil.. *I just keep em sharp and oil when they may need it. * * *Seems there is a large issue with disease and it's containment. *I believe healthy soil and perhaps not planting the same every year in the same spot is wise. * Fallow I think is the word which I equate with rest and healing. * Give it ( the soil a break without intrusion) and come back latter with another attempt to find out what harmony may mean. The tomato blight seems to suggest 2 years *but Green peppers are essentially banished from our area *due too long lived soil pathogens. Harmony, I don't think so, nature is about disease and massive extinction as the norm, tomatoes are not native to the USA for a reason, they are bred to taste good to humans, it does havoc to their survival abilities though. Hybrids are the extreme, their destiny is to go extinct in one season by design, you want a all natural fool proof tomato plant that lives in harmony with nature? it's fruit will probably taste like a potato! and bear 1/10 the fruit. Modern tomato plants are like most modern milk cows and dogs, they would never survive in the wild without massive human support system behind them. Marglobe 1917 tasty and tough. http://www.vegetableseed.net/heirloo...oom-tomato-see ds/heirloom-red-tomato-seeds/marglobe.html -- Bill Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA http://www.globalissues.org/article/75/world-military-spending |
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