I live in an area where three zones meet on the zone map.
It seems to me that instead of guessing my effective zone, planting
tomatoes comes down to soil temperature and the expected minimum
nighttime temperature.

Does anyone plant this way ?

--
Al Dykes
-----------
adykes at p a n i x . c o m

"Al Dykes" wrote in message
...
I live in an area where three zones meet on the zone map.
It seems to me that instead of guessing my effective zone, planting
tomatoes comes down to soil temperature and the expected minimum
nighttime temperature.

Does anyone plant this way ?


I would assume most people plant that way. Within the right time to plant
for their zone, of course. I mean, I wouldn't plant tomatoes in January just
because we got a freak hot spell. If the temps are right, I'd plant now, but
we're still getting some frost.

You say you border three zones on the map. What is the lowest temperature
you, or others normally experience in the winter? subtract 5 degrees for a
safety measure, then see which zone corresponds.

Here's a hardiness zone map:
http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html

Click on your area, then scroll to the bottom for temperatures.

In article ,
tmtresh wrote:

"Al Dykes" wrote in message
...
I live in an area where three zones meet on the zone map.
It seems to me that instead of guessing my effective zone, planting
tomatoes comes down to soil temperature and the expected minimum
nighttime temperature.

Does anyone plant this way ?


I would assume most people plant that way. Within the right time to plant
for their zone, of course. I mean, I wouldn't plant tomatoes in January just
because we got a freak hot spell. If the temps are right, I'd plant now, but
we're still getting some frost.

You say you border three zones on the map. What is the lowest temperature
you, or others normally experience in the winter? subtract 5 degrees for a
safety measure, then see which zone corresponds.

Here's a hardiness zone map:
http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html

Click on your area, then scroll to the bottom for temperatures.



As I said, I can't distinguish within 3 zones where I am on that map.
I'd need a pixel-level editor, and I don't expect the data that
produced the map is that exact to that resolution, anyway.

I assume you meant Def F. We get to single digits for at
least a few days in january. Does that mean I'm in zone 6b ?




--
Al Dykes
-----------
adykes at p a n i x . c o m

(Al Dykes) wrote in message ...
I live in an area where three zones meet on the zone map.
It seems to me that instead of guessing my effective zone, planting
tomatoes comes down to soil temperature and the expected minimum
nighttime temperature.

Does anyone plant this way ?

yes. If you have raised beds, soil temp does not matter (the beds will
be ready long before nightime temps are ready). Nighttime temps above
50 is the most important thing. If you don't have raised beds you will
have to ask someone else. Keep in mind local microclimates. I have
measured differences of up to 8F between my patio and my garden in the
early morning (patio is high, garden is low).

If you are looking at a hardiness zone map, that has little, if
anything, to do with when to plant tomatoes. The general advise it
to plant them out after the night time lows will not go below 50. I
am forced to ignore that rule because, here, the average low for the
warmest part of July is 52. Obviously there will be days that are
cooler than normal and we rarely go a week or 2 without having a
night in the 40s. I just plant my tomatoes in early June and hope
for the best. On a good year, I get ripe tomatoes by mid August. On
a bad year it might be into September.

Steve in the Adirondacks of northern NY



Al Dykes wrote:

I live in an area where three zones meet on the zone map.
It seems to me that instead of guessing my effective zone, planting
tomatoes comes down to soil temperature and the expected minimum
nighttime temperature.

Does anyone plant this way ?

Al Dykes said:

I live in an area where three zones meet on the zone map.
It seems to me that instead of guessing my effective zone, planting
tomatoes comes down to soil temperature and the expected minimum
nighttime temperature.

I go by night time low temperatures, based on historical weather data and
the trending each year. You can plant tomatoes when the expected lows
will be 50 degrees F or better. According to weather.com, for Staten Island
that will be May 9. Wait a couple of more days and you would likely have
no risk of frost at all. (I've had frost on clear, windless nights where the
offficial measured low was about 34 degrees.)

Staten Island, May historic data (watch line wrap):

http://www.weather.com/outlook/homea...USNY1401?climo
Month=5
--
Pat in Plymouth MI ('someplace.net' is comcast)

Any technology distinguishable from magic is insufficiently advanced.
(attributed to Don Marti)

As I said, I can't distinguish within 3 zones where I am on that map.
I'd need a pixel-level editor, and I don't expect the data that
produced the map is that exact to that resolution, anyway.

I meant click on your state, or any state, for that matter. All the zones
are listed at the bottom with relative temps.

I assume you meant Def F. We get to single digits for at
least a few days in january. Does that mean I'm in zone 6b ?

Upper single digits or lower single digits? 6b or 7a. At least it will give
you a good idea of what you can plant.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 08:08:30 -0400, Al Dykes wrote:

I live in an area where three zones meet on the zone map. It seems to me
that instead of guessing my effective zone, planting tomatoes comes down
to soil temperature and the expected minimum nighttime temperature.

Does anyone plant this way ?

I see you got a lot of responses referencing 50 deg F nighttime lows. As I
read the map, my average last frost date (Detroit, MI) was April 15. As is
my habit, I planted tomatoes on the first weekend after that. I have hot
caps handy should frost threaten, but I don't think I'll be needing them
again this season.

My tomatoes are doing just fine. Thank you.

I plant in large boxes, raised 2' above the ground with their flanks
on the N & S sides. This lets the sun hit the sides of the boxes and warm
the soil quite early in the season and also helps me skip the first light
frost or two in the fall.

You can see my garden from the link in my signature below.

One other thing you could do, not mentioned in the other replies, is to
contact your county agricultural extension agent or the nearest
state agricultural college. They'll know what zone and also have a wealth
of other growing tips, to boot.

Bill
--
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In article ,
tmtresh wrote:

As I said, I can't distinguish within 3 zones where I am on that map.
I'd need a pixel-level editor, and I don't expect the data that
produced the map is that exact to that resolution, anyway.

I meant click on your state, or any state, for that matter. All the zones
are listed at the bottom with relative temps.

I assume you meant Def F. We get to single digits for at
least a few days in january. Does that mean I'm in zone 6b ?

Upper single digits or lower single digits? 6b or 7a. At least it will give
you a good idea of what you can plant.



High. I guess that means I'm in 7a.

Sorry to sound like a curmudgeon.

The problem with the map is that 3 near-beige colors are mixed up
within a handfull of pixels where I live. There is no way to see which
one is exactly me. On top of that I'm on the highest point for
hundreds of miles. It's only 400 ft ASL but the winter rain freezes
here before the it does a mile from the house; Staten Island, NY,
Highest point on the eastern seaboard. Atlantic ocean warming effect,
or fast track storms from canada. I don't get to choose. I think the
nearest garden supply is in a different zone.

I'm still interested in knowing about soil temperatures.

--
Al Dykes
-----------
adykes at p a n i x . c o m