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#16
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"Loki" wrote:
The roots grow down - away from light and reacting to gravity, water etc. I think roots grow in a generalized direction out, with gravity maintaining a constant pull so there is a slight downward pull to their outward growth. Most seems to follow along the same guidelines that electricity follows... meaning they take the path of least resistance. Trees seem to have one main trunk that goes down and branches sprawling in all directions in the ground, and this would make sense, because resistance is low to start and as the main trunk dives deeper, the resistance increases, so the branches that sprawl outwards underneath get more water being near the surface, so there is a slight "hunger" to stay near the surface. An increase in the amount of area by the branches spreading out in the ground provides a mechanism to support the main trunk above the ground and provides a greater surface area to drink from. One thing to keep in mind about this as well is that it's like diving, and the deeper you dive, the greater the pressure is on you. All that water above you has a weight and that weight is expressed as a pressure, psi (pounds per square inch). There is a limit to depth that you can dive, I don't know it is off the top of my head, because once you reach that depth, the pressure becomes so great that you could die from the compression. Submarines have a maximum depth they can travel, each type of fish have a maximum depth, and I imagine the same applies to the roots of trees. I let some pigweed grow here and was interested in it's rooting. When I pulled it from the ground, the main trunk dove straight down. I let it grow to about 5 feet in height before I pulled it. The main root that dove straight down was the strongest and it only dove about a 16 inches at most. The main branches that came off it sprawled in all directions about 12 inches in every direction. I imagine the sprawl was actually greater, because those branches were a lot thinner than the main trunk and they decreased in size and strength farther out. They broke at the outer lengths. Those branches in the ground are what provided the support for the height. I think the factors that control rooting a 1) There is a slight pull from gravity, 2) Thirst for water means there is a sprawl away from the main stem, 3) Rain being a source of water provides the most effect (in the beginning) at the surface and that effect decreases the deeper you get, UNLESS you have an underground supply of water. In the latter case, it will be water plants that would flourish. 4) As far as tomatoes go, they seem to love a RICH WET soil and they seem to love a bottom fed water supply. I'm having great success with four plants in a clay pot (1 quart), which I keep in a bowl and I keep the bowl filled with water. It's kept in the shade of a tree it's got some stakes for support and fence nearby that I'm hanging the longer vines upon. I don't know whats right or what's wrong, but the tomatoes seem to be very happy. With tomatoes being set upside down, there is still that pull down on their branches in the dirt. Once they hit a wall, the roots would tend to grow away from the wall or along the traveling in the path of least resistance. If the least resistance happens to be up, the growth should grow up. I think I can almost argue that light has nothing to do with root growth, other than it's light that does whatever it does with chlorophyl or whatever it is. The nutrients are drawn from the soil and light does something with chlorophyl. Thus the greenery is up top where the light is, and I don't quite have a grasp of what actually makes the roots work, some kind of energy created by a thirst for water and the leaves up top. I don't know how much of what I said is 100% fact. It's all just my own thoughts on root growth. Don't take it at face value. I found it interesting and thought I'd leave some of my own thoughts on it. -- Jim Carlock Post replies to newsgroup. |
#17
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Jim Carlock wrote:
"Claire Petersky" wrote: Since tomato blight is a common problem in our state, one of the advantages of growing them upside down is that they may be easier to keep ventilated and from moisture staying on them, encouraging these problems. Anyone else find that tomatoes love to be bottom fed? I mean sitting a clay pot in a bowl and filling the bowl with water during the morning. I've got four plants in a little 1qt clay pot that are doing just wonderful underneath a tree (they don't seem to like the Florida heat). I don't think the water is evaporating during the day too much, and the water is always gone by the start of evening. Could be squirrels coming by for a drink I imagine, though. I've got a few other tomato plants growing in the ground but they just don't seem to be growing like the ones in the clay pot. Maybe I'm only imagining it and have to give them another month ? -- Jim Carlock Post replies to newsgroup. Based on my experience with potted tomatoes last year, I'd say your plants are taking in the water (not the squirrels). The fact that you have to fill the pot liner every day means your plants have a good root system. You may want to think of transplanting to a much larger pot. I tried 3 plants in a single 17" diameter pot last season and had great success. |
#18
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#19
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"Chris Thompson" wrote:
You may want to think of transplanting to a much larger pot. I tried 3 plants in a single 17" diameter pot last season and had great success. You mentioned the diameter of your pot with 3 plants as 17". the diameter at the top of my pot is maybe 6" or 7", maybe 8" deep. I pulled my first caterpillar off a leaf yesterday. Yikes! The temp dropped with not much wind, and we did get a little rain. I'll post a pic of the pot in the binary group. -- Jim Carlock Please post replies to newsgroup. Jim Carlock previously asked: Anyone else find that tomatoes love to be bottom fed? I mean sitting a clay pot in a bowl and filling the bowl with water during the morning. |
#20
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"Thyro" writes:
I tried the upside down tomato in a 5-gallon bucket last summer after seeing an article in Organic Gardening. Everytime I'd water, the water would drip down onto the stem and leaves and the result was instant disease. Did I just set it up wrong? I can see the problem: your plant's stem is emerging from the lowest point in the pot, and that's where excess water will drain to. Not good! How about taking a standard pot or bucket and gluing a half-inch length of wide-bore hose inside around the drain hole to raise it above the pot's base and using PLENTY of glue to ensure the join is watertight. Now, to allow excess water to drain, you'll need to make a new hole in the base and I suggest drilling it nearer the edge of the base. Water will down drip out of this new hole instead of the original centre one, and to stop it dripping onto the foliage you could attach a short length of plastic hose to channel the water down through the plant. Don't poke the hose into the hole, but glue it all the way around it outside the pot. Cover the opening over the hose with nylon flyscreen to keep potting mix out. | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | XX XX | |___ ________XX XX_______________| | | | | | | When you water the plant, water around the perimeter of the pot so that water is not poured directly above the centre hole. Avoid overwatering. Just a suggestion, not something I've tried. -- John Savage (my news address is not valid for email) |
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