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#1
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bubble counter problem
I have recently installed a CO2 system in my 75 gallon aquarium and it is
working fine except for one little problem. I have a constant pH reading of 7.1 thanks to the addition of CO2. Before CO2 my pH was 8.4. Very hard water. The problem is that when I fill my bubble counter half full of water, I lose it all within a week. I believe the bubble flow rate is too fast and the large flow is causing the water to dissipate into the CO2 air tubing. I replace it and then is starts over again. I know the answer is to turn down the flow rate, but then the CO2 runs all the time on my pH controller. Isn't it supposed to shut off and then when the pH spikes a little, it automatically turns it back on? I am afraid if I turn down the flow rate, my pH will go higher than I want. The pH is stabilized at 7.1 now so does it matter if there is water in the bubble counter at this point anyhow? Advice is appreciated from those with more experience and thanks. Dan |
#2
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"Dan" wrote in message ... I have recently installed a CO2 system in my 75 gallon aquarium and it is working fine except for one little problem. I have a constant pH reading of 7.1 thanks to the addition of CO2. Before CO2 my pH was 8.4. Very hard water. The problem is that when I fill my bubble counter half full of water, I lose it all within a week. I believe the bubble flow rate is too fast and the large flow is causing the water to dissipate into the CO2 air tubing. I replace it and then is starts over again. I know the answer is to turn down the flow rate, but then the CO2 runs all the time on my pH controller. Isn't it supposed to shut off and then when the pH spikes a little, it automatically turns it back on? I am afraid if I turn down the flow rate, my pH will go higher than I want. The pH is stabilized at 7.1 now so does it matter if there is water in the bubble counter at this point anyhow? Advice is appreciated from those with more experience and thanks. Dan Ideally your bubbles should be low enough that your controller is almost always on. That way you don't get any PH fluctuations and if your solenoid gets stuck open you won't poison your tank. Although I can't say that mine is set that accurately. My bubble counter is connected to the venturi input of a powerhead (RUGF), so it never stays full of water. The venturi sucks the water right out.But since I don't rely on the bubble counter (PH Controller) it's doesn't matter all that much. |
#3
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Thanks: I will turn it down. Makes sense to me.
Dan "Bill Stock" wrote in message ... "Dan" wrote in message ... I have recently installed a CO2 system in my 75 gallon aquarium and it is working fine except for one little problem. I have a constant pH reading of 7.1 thanks to the addition of CO2. Before CO2 my pH was 8.4. Very hard water. The problem is that when I fill my bubble counter half full of water, I lose it all within a week. I believe the bubble flow rate is too fast and the large flow is causing the water to dissipate into the CO2 air tubing. I replace it and then is starts over again. I know the answer is to turn down the flow rate, but then the CO2 runs all the time on my pH controller. Isn't it supposed to shut off and then when the pH spikes a little, it automatically turns it back on? I am afraid if I turn down the flow rate, my pH will go higher than I want. The pH is stabilized at 7.1 now so does it matter if there is water in the bubble counter at this point anyhow? Advice is appreciated from those with more experience and thanks. Dan Ideally your bubbles should be low enough that your controller is almost always on. That way you don't get any PH fluctuations and if your solenoid gets stuck open you won't poison your tank. Although I can't say that mine is set that accurately. My bubble counter is connected to the venturi input of a powerhead (RUGF), so it never stays full of water. The venturi sucks the water right out.But since I don't rely on the bubble counter (PH Controller) it's doesn't matter all that much. |
#4
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If you have your ph stabilized where you want it, why do you even need
the bubble counter? The whole point of a bubble counter is to be able to tell the amount of CO2 entering the tank, so you can get it set to where you want it. You already have it where you want it, so why bother with the bubble counter? Nick http://www.hotdogmuffin.com http://forum.hotdogmuffin.com |
#7
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"Dan" wrote in message ... Thanks for the advice; I will try mineral oil and I think I can get by with slowing the flow rate also. Dan Could the Mineral oil somehow get into the tank? I already have some kind of oilly layer on my water that I think is from the regulator, I doubt it from any of my plants? Also, wouldnt Nick be correct, once you have your bubble rate dialed in, even if all the water evaporates from the bubble counter what difference does it make? John |
#8
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John H. wrote:
"Dan" wrote in message ... Thanks for the advice; I will try mineral oil and I think I can get by with slowing the flow rate also. Dan Could the Mineral oil somehow get into the tank? I already have some kind of oilly layer on my water that I think is from the regulator, I doubt it from any of my plants? Also, wouldnt Nick be correct, once you have your bubble rate dialed in, even if all the water evaporates from the bubble counter what difference does it make? The bubble rate cannot be guaranteed to remain constant. My bubble rate is somewhat inversely proportional to ambient temperature due to expansion/contraction of metal parts. I now use a pH controller, but I'm still comforted by the bubble counter. Nikki |
#9
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