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Removing UGF for planted tank?
Okay thanks for everyones input, it's much appreciated. I've got a bunch of
plants mainly stem ones and decided to keep the UGF for the time being. If they don't work out I'll simply try again removing the UGF completely and ordering another batch of plants on my next order in a few months time. I've got ambulia, blue stricta, gold pennywort, wisteria, corkscrew vals, cryptocoryne, narrow chain swords, and a small amazon swordplant. "kush" wrote in message ... Mmmmmmmmmmm. I agree with everything Leigh says, but, but, but... Using an undergravel filter simply requires a different system of aquarium maintenance, different skills and different expectations. Instead of using bubbles you use powerheads aimed so as not to disrupt the surface. If you want to grow serious root feeders like swords, you confine them where you can use root tabs/spikes. On the other hand, stem plants which root from the nodes perform (IME) immeasurably better in a UGF system - stem rot just doesn't happen. I've found that equilibrium is easier to achieve and can be maintained for years longer than in a conventional setup. OK, horse flogged, I'm done. kush LeighMo wrote in message ... If I had a choice I would remove the UFG( because of conventional wisdom) but that may not be feasible in all circumstances. I agree. In fact, I did it. I had a UGF in my tank for years, but removed it when I decided to replace the substrate with Flourite. I had a power filter on the tank, too, so removing the UGF was no big deal. FWIW, I never had a problem with nitrate building up, even without a lot of plants. Nevertheless, I don't recommend UGFs with planted tanks. Don't get me wrong, a lot of people use them and it's fine -- but there are a few reasons why UGFs aren't ideal for planted tanks. 1) The problem of substrate fertilizer has already been mentioned. You can do without it, but IME there are some plants that just do better with heavy substrate fertilization. 2) Rearranging plants becomes difficult with UGFs. The plants' roots entwine around the filter plate and grow for feet over and underneath it. Removing or moving plants becomes a huge PITA. 3) Vacuuming, IMO, isn't a problem. With a properly run UGF, the crud should never clog the gravel, and you don't need to vacuum it (though you should vacuum underneath the plates every once in awhile). However, the ideal gravel size for a UGF is larger than is ideal for plants. Seachem says Flourite can be used with UGFs, but IME, it's too fine. The UGF was designed for largish gravel -- pea-sized or bigger. This is much coarser than most plants like. 4) It's not necessary. It's good to have a backup filter, but in a planted tank, the plants are your backup filter. Leigh http://www.fortunecity.com/lavender/halloween/881/ |
#17
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Removing UGF for planted tank?
On Thu, 5 Dec 2002 17:26:34 +1100, "Tasslehoff"
wrote: Okay thanks for everyones input, it's much appreciated. I've got a bunch of plants mainly stem ones and decided to keep the UGF for the time being. If they don't work out I'll simply try again That's the spirit! Lots-a-luck! |
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