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KJBCan anyone help me on how to take cuttings or successfully root from
KJBlayering from a well established outdoor grapevine?
KJBI have tried rooting compound on cuttings in compost in the
KJBgreenhouse--nothing. Cuttings in water for about three weeks -- nothing.
KJBLayering vine staked into pot of compost outside off the main plant--
KJBnothing yet.
KJBAny help would be appreciated
I successfully toke some cutting from the 100 year old concord
grape arbor at the Ackerman homestead in Medford, Massachsuetts
in 1996, after the fruiting was completed and before frosting.

Cutting were of old and new wood between 6" to 12". I split the
cut ends abit before placeing in water. I don't recall useing any
hormons that I have used for other cuttings.

From four planting sites at end of our car drive way, major growths
have developed into an arbor about 10' square that had overgrown
last year that fruit production was poor; so last fall after frosting
I cut much of the existing wood brances away.

This year the foilage growth is back full force and I estimate we
may have fruit production that I hope may fill a gallon pail; if
the many squirals and birds leave some for us. We use Peters dry
furtilizer which is largely nitrogen in the spring.

Stay young, OldAck.

---
þ SLMR 2.1a þ Sculpturs and golfers both chip a lot. (Salada)

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In article ,
"THURSTON ACKERMAN" wrote:

FamilyNet Newsgate

KJBCan anyone help me on how to take cuttings or successfully root from
KJBlayering from a well established outdoor grapevine?
KJBI have tried rooting compound on cuttings in compost in the
KJBgreenhouse--nothing. Cuttings in water for about three weeks -- nothing.
KJBLayering vine staked into pot of compost outside off the main plant--
KJBnothing yet.
KJBAny help would be appreciated
I successfully toke some cutting from the 100 year old concord
grape arbor at the Ackerman homestead in Medford, Massachsuetts
in 1996, after the fruiting was completed and before frosting.

Cutting were of old and new wood between 6" to 12". I split the
cut ends abit before placeing in water. I don't recall useing any
hormons that I have used for other cuttings.

From four planting sites at end of our car drive way, major growths
have developed into an arbor about 10' square that had overgrown
last year that fruit production was poor; so last fall after frosting
I cut much of the existing wood brances away.

This year the foilage growth is back full force and I estimate we
may have fruit production that I hope may fill a gallon pail; if
the many squirals and birds leave some for us. We use Peters dry
furtilizer which is largely nitrogen in the spring.

Stay young, OldAck.

---
þ SLMR 2.1a þ Sculpturs and golfers both chip a lot. (Salada)

FamilyNet Internet Gated Mail
http://www.fmlynet.org

We would cut a length of vine that had three buds. Then bury them
(this in late fall) in a shallow ditch over winter. Come spring dig up
and bury the bottom two buds in the earth. Don't let them dry out and
magic happens.

Easy

Bill

--
Garden Shade Zone 5 in a Japanese Jungle manner.
Acts of creation are ordinarily reserved for gods and poets. To plant a pine, one need only own a shovel.
-- Aldo Leopold
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