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Cuttings from a grape vin
FamilyNet Newsgate
KJBCan anyone help me on how to take cuttings or successfully root from KJBlayering from a well established outdoor grapevine? KJBI have tried rooting compound on cuttings in compost in the KJBgreenhouse--nothing. Cuttings in water for about three weeks -- nothing. KJBLayering vine staked into pot of compost outside off the main plant-- KJBnothing yet. KJBAny help would be appreciated I successfully toke some cutting from the 100 year old concord grape arbor at the Ackerman homestead in Medford, Massachsuetts in 1996, after the fruiting was completed and before frosting. Cutting were of old and new wood between 6" to 12". I split the cut ends abit before placeing in water. I don't recall useing any hormons that I have used for other cuttings. From four planting sites at end of our car drive way, major growths have developed into an arbor about 10' square that had overgrown last year that fruit production was poor; so last fall after frosting I cut much of the existing wood brances away. This year the foilage growth is back full force and I estimate we may have fruit production that I hope may fill a gallon pail; if the many squirals and birds leave some for us. We use Peters dry furtilizer which is largely nitrogen in the spring. Stay young, OldAck. --- þ SLMR 2.1a þ Sculpturs and golfers both chip a lot. (Salada) FamilyNet Internet Gated Mail http://www.fmlynet.org |
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In article ,
"THURSTON ACKERMAN" wrote: FamilyNet Newsgate KJBCan anyone help me on how to take cuttings or successfully root from KJBlayering from a well established outdoor grapevine? KJBI have tried rooting compound on cuttings in compost in the KJBgreenhouse--nothing. Cuttings in water for about three weeks -- nothing. KJBLayering vine staked into pot of compost outside off the main plant-- KJBnothing yet. KJBAny help would be appreciated I successfully toke some cutting from the 100 year old concord grape arbor at the Ackerman homestead in Medford, Massachsuetts in 1996, after the fruiting was completed and before frosting. Cutting were of old and new wood between 6" to 12". I split the cut ends abit before placeing in water. I don't recall useing any hormons that I have used for other cuttings. From four planting sites at end of our car drive way, major growths have developed into an arbor about 10' square that had overgrown last year that fruit production was poor; so last fall after frosting I cut much of the existing wood brances away. This year the foilage growth is back full force and I estimate we may have fruit production that I hope may fill a gallon pail; if the many squirals and birds leave some for us. We use Peters dry furtilizer which is largely nitrogen in the spring. Stay young, OldAck. --- þ SLMR 2.1a þ Sculpturs and golfers both chip a lot. (Salada) FamilyNet Internet Gated Mail http://www.fmlynet.org We would cut a length of vine that had three buds. Then bury them (this in late fall) in a shallow ditch over winter. Come spring dig up and bury the bottom two buds in the earth. Don't let them dry out and magic happens. Easy Bill -- Garden Shade Zone 5 in a Japanese Jungle manner. Acts of creation are ordinarily reserved for gods and poets. To plant a pine, one need only own a shovel. -- Aldo Leopold This article is posted under fair use rules in accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, and is strictly for the educational and informative purposes. This material is distributed without profit. |
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