We would like to apply bark mulch in several areas around our home
where grass currently exists. Is there a need to get rid of the grass
before applying the mulch, either by lifting the sod or laying
cardboard and four inches of soil, as we do when preparing a new bed,
or can we just lay landscape fabric and 2-3 inches of mulch and that
will take care of the grass over time.
thanks
Teresa

wrote in message
oups.com...
We would like to apply bark mulch in several areas around our home
where grass currently exists. Is there a need to get rid of the grass
before applying the mulch, either by lifting the sod or laying
cardboard and four inches of soil, as we do when preparing a new bed,
or can we just lay landscape fabric and 2-3 inches of mulch and that
will take care of the grass over time.


What kind of grass is it?

I would vote dig it out, but I have a very aggressive grass that spreads by
runners.
It laughs at weedcloth and mulch.


--
Toni
South Florida USA
USDA Zone 10
http://www.cearbhaill.com

On Apr 10, 8:47 am, "Buderschnookie" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...

We would like to apply bark mulch in several areas around our home
where grass currently exists. Is there a need to get rid of the grass
before applying the mulch, either by lifting the sod or laying
cardboard and four inches of soil, as we do when preparing a new bed,
or can we just lay landscape fabric and 2-3 inches of mulch and that
will take care of the grass over time.

What kind of grass is it?

I would vote dig it out, but I have a very aggressive grass that spreads by
runners.
It laughs at weedcloth and mulch.

--
Toni
South Florida USA
USDA Zone 10http://www.cearbhaill.com

I have no idea what kind of grass it is... how would one tell?

wrote in message

I have no idea what kind of grass it is... how would one tell?




I would start with where you are?
Then someone closer than me will pop in and help.


--
Toni
South Florida USA
USDA Zone 10
http://www.cearbhaill.com

On Apr 10, 9:19 am, "Buderschnookie" wrote:
wrote in message

I have no idea what kind of grass it is... how would one tell?

I would start with where you are?
Then someone closer than me will pop in and help.

--
Toni
South Florida USA
USDA Zone 10http://www.cearbhaill.com

ok, I'm in Vancouver BC Canada, USDA zone 8

1st If you are mulching to increase the health of your soil than bark mulch
may not be the way to go. Bark mulch is made up of outer bark of trees.
Outer bark of trees is made up of suberin. Suberin is long chains of fatty
acids. There is not a suitable carbon source available to help feed the
soil. Composted wood chips and leaves would be suitable to increase soil
health by feeding the soil. I say composted because fresh chips (from
symplast maintaining trees) has protoplasm spread all over the place. This
attracts micros that attack defenseless cells of your trees. Once the chips
are composted this is not an issue. Also the more you compost the chips the
less chance you will have of getting an undesired fungus on your house. I
have had good results with cutting the turf low with a weed wacker (KEEP
AWAY FROM YOUNG TREES) and placing the composted wood chips on top at about
4" in depth and flat. Contacting a tree company may lead you to some nice
composted wood chips.

"Suberin is a lipid that in the outer periderm of phellem waterproofs outer
bark. Suberin- impregnated phellem is called cork. The chains of carbon and
hydrogen in suberin are so varied that few enzymes from microorganisms are
able to cleave it for an energy source. This characteristic gives corks
their unique benefits for sealing bottles. Suberin is also in a layer in
absorbing roots called the Casparian strip. This layer is an effective
boundary essential in the absorption processes. Energy is required to
transport water and elements through the boundary into the tree. Suberin is
also a major compound in the barrier zone that forms after wounding. Outer
bark that contains suberin is often used for mulch, since bark mulch will
not be broken down by soil microorganisms because of the suberin. The bark
mulch has aesthetic value, but the bark is of little value for providing
energy-releasing compounds to soil microorganisms. Some trees store fats and
oils as their reserve energy source. The fats and oils are not soluble in
water. Many palms store oils. Waxes on leaves and fruits are also lipids."
Source http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html


If you contemplate using chemicals to kill the grass you may desire to read
up of pesticides.
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/spring.html


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

wrote in message
oups.com...
We would like to apply bark mulch in several areas around our home
where grass currently exists. Is there a need to get rid of the grass
before applying the mulch, either by lifting the sod or laying
cardboard and four inches of soil, as we do when preparing a new bed,
or can we just lay landscape fabric and 2-3 inches of mulch and that
will take care of the grass over time.
thanks
Teresa

One more point. If the turf is in the drip line of your tree, and your goal
is to preserve tree health - do not dig out the turf. The roots of turf
grow deeper than the non-woody roots of trees. In digging out the turf you
are also digging out your absorbing roots of your tree which facilitate the
absorption of essential elements dissolved in water. Not a good treatment
for the tree.


--
Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

wrote in message
oups.com...
We would like to apply bark mulch in several areas around our home
where grass currently exists. Is there a need to get rid of the grass
before applying the mulch, either by lifting the sod or laying
cardboard and four inches of soil, as we do when preparing a new bed,
or can we just lay landscape fabric and 2-3 inches of mulch and that
will take care of the grass over time.
thanks
Teresa

I found the spell for the fungus that will grow on your house if fresh chips
are used. artillery fungus

Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding us
that we are not the boss.

"symplastless" wrote in message
. ..
1st If you are mulching to increase the health of your soil than bark
mulch may not be the way to go. Bark mulch is made up of outer bark of
trees. Outer bark of trees is made up of suberin. Suberin is long chains
of fatty acids. There is not a suitable carbon source available to help
feed the soil. Composted wood chips and leaves would be suitable to
increase soil health by feeding the soil. I say composted because fresh
chips (from symplast maintaining trees) has protoplasm spread all over the
place. This attracts micros that attack defenseless cells of your trees.
Once the chips are composted this is not an issue. Also the more you
compost the chips the less chance you will have of getting an undesired
fungus on your house. I have had good results with cutting the turf low
with a weed wacker (KEEP AWAY FROM YOUNG TREES) and placing the composted
wood chips on top at about 4" in depth and flat. Contacting a tree
company may lead you to some nice composted wood chips.

"Suberin is a lipid that in the outer periderm of phellem waterproofs
outer bark. Suberin- impregnated phellem is called cork. The chains of
carbon and hydrogen in suberin are so varied that few enzymes from
microorganisms are able to cleave it for an energy source. This
characteristic gives corks their unique benefits for sealing bottles.
Suberin is also in a layer in absorbing roots called the Casparian strip.
This layer is an effective boundary essential in the absorption processes.
Energy is required to transport water and elements through the boundary
into the tree. Suberin is also a major compound in the barrier zone that
forms after wounding. Outer bark that contains suberin is often used for
mulch, since bark mulch will not be broken down by soil microorganisms
because of the suberin. The bark mulch has aesthetic value, but the bark
is of little value for providing energy-releasing compounds to soil
microorganisms. Some trees store fats and oils as their reserve energy
source. The fats and oils are not soluble in water. Many palms store oils.
Waxes on leaves and fruits are also lipids." Source
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/shigo/CHEM.html


If you contemplate using chemicals to kill the grass you may desire to
read up of pesticides.
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman/spring.html


Sincerely,
John A. Keslick, Jr.
Arborist
http://home.ccil.org/~treeman
and www.treedictionary.com
Beware of so-called tree experts who do not understand tree biology.
Storms, fires, floods, earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions keep reminding
us that we are not the boss.

wrote in message
oups.com...
We would like to apply bark mulch in several areas around our home
where grass currently exists. Is there a need to get rid of the grass
before applying the mulch, either by lifting the sod or laying
cardboard and four inches of soil, as we do when preparing a new bed,
or can we just lay landscape fabric and 2-3 inches of mulch and that
will take care of the grass over time.
thanks
Teresa

put clear plastic down and let the sun solarize the soil and kill the grass. then
put the permeable fabric down and mulch. you will need to spot kill weeds with weed
killer.
fast way. use roundup to kill the grass in the area, put down the fabric and then
the mulch. use roundup only in very limited areas and only where absolutely
necessary.
Ingrid


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