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Old 30-05-2007, 05:15 AM posted to rec.gardens
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I have gardened on and off for a number of years, but have really
jumped into veggies and landscaping since I got a place in the boonies
eight years ago. I don't seem to have too many problems with the
basics, and I go organic as much as I can.

In that vein, I intend to venture into composting.
The cleared portion of my land, around the buildings, that I mow
comprises about four or so acres of generic local weeds, fescue that
has blown in from the neighbors up the road, and whatever forbs and
juvie trees take root come spring. I have no "lawn".
Can I gather these clippings and, after the proper treatment and
ageing, use them in the garden, with the roses and other flowers, or
as cover / mulch here and there? Will doing so simply re-distribute
weed seed?

I manage my 63 acres for wildlife, and plant trees and brush from the
state -- too damn many trees to keep up with Would the well aged
compost from these clippings be OK to put in the "holes" that the
trees get planted in?

Thanx for any help.

cheers

oz

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Old 30-05-2007, 05:37 AM posted to rec.gardens
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'Would the well aged
compost from these clippings be OK to put in the "holes" that the
trees get planted in? "

Better to topdress with the compost, 2" or more , but pull back a few
inches from the trunk

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Old 30-05-2007, 05:58 AM posted to rec.gardens
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I usually add some compost to a mix of soil and sand when planting trees,
especially
if it is in a location where the soil is compacted and the drainage poor. The
mulch
can also be put around the tree, as suggested, but I do that in the fall to give
a type
of 'blanket' insulation for the coming winter. This mulch will eventually work
it's way
into the soil around the tree, so it has a dual benefit.

Sherwin D.

MajorOz wrote:

I have gardened on and off for a number of years, but have really
jumped into veggies and landscaping since I got a place in the boonies
eight years ago. I don't seem to have too many problems with the
basics, and I go organic as much as I can.

In that vein, I intend to venture into composting.
The cleared portion of my land, around the buildings, that I mow
comprises about four or so acres of generic local weeds, fescue that
has blown in from the neighbors up the road, and whatever forbs and
juvie trees take root come spring. I have no "lawn".
Can I gather these clippings and, after the proper treatment and
ageing, use them in the garden, with the roses and other flowers, or
as cover / mulch here and there? Will doing so simply re-distribute
weed seed?

I manage my 63 acres for wildlife, and plant trees and brush from the
state -- too damn many trees to keep up with Would the well aged
compost from these clippings be OK to put in the "holes" that the
trees get planted in?

Thanx for any help.

cheers

oz


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Old 30-05-2007, 12:33 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On 29 May 2007 21:15:43 -0700, MajorOz wrote:

I have gardened on and off for a number of years, but have really
jumped into veggies and landscaping since I got a place in the boonies
eight years ago. I don't seem to have too many problems with the
basics, and I go organic as much as I can.

In that vein, I intend to venture into composting.
The cleared portion of my land, around the buildings, that I mow
comprises about four or so acres of generic local weeds, fescue that
has blown in from the neighbors up the road, and whatever forbs and
juvie trees take root come spring. I have no "lawn".
Can I gather these clippings and, after the proper treatment and
ageing, use them in the garden, with the roses and other flowers, or
as cover / mulch here and there? Will doing so simply re-distribute
weed seed?

I manage my 63 acres for wildlife, and plant trees and brush from the
state -- too damn many trees to keep up with Would the well aged
compost from these clippings be OK to put in the "holes" that the
trees get planted in?


If you manage the compost so that it gets hot the weed seeds will be
killed. That requires adequate moisture and turning periodically to
provide oxygen. I monitor my compost pile with a thermometer and turn
it when the internal temperature drops 20 degrees F.

If you just pile it up and wait you will get good compost (it usually
takes 3 years this way) but the weed seeds will survive and will
thrive in the rich compost.

John

Thanx for any help.

cheers

oz

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Old 30-05-2007, 12:46 PM posted to rec.gardens
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John Bachman wrote in
:


If you manage the compost so that it gets hot the weed seeds will be
killed.


Are you sure? Seems to me I remember one of the teachers in our MG class
saying that weed seeds can survive even the hottest compost pile. In fact,
IIRC, the first things that return after a forest fire are the weeds.


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Old 30-05-2007, 03:02 PM posted to rec.gardens
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FragileWarrior wrote:
John Bachman wrote in
:



If you manage the compost so that it gets hot the weed seeds will be
killed.



Are you sure? Seems to me I remember one of the teachers in our MG class
saying that weed seeds can survive even the hottest compost pile. In fact,
IIRC, the first things that return after a forest fire are the weeds.


I think John should have said "MOST weed seeds will be killed". For
that reason I don't put anything that has seeds in my compost pile.
Also, I don't put "woody" type items in my compost bin because of the
time that it takes for them to break down.
--
Bill R. (Ohio Valley, U.S.A)

Gardening for over 40 years

To see pictures from my garden visit http://members.iglou.com/brosen

Digital Camera - Pentax *ist DL

Remove NO_WEEDS_ in e-mail address to reply by e-mail
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Old 30-05-2007, 10:09 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Janet Baraclough wrote:
The message
from Bill R contains these words:

FragileWarrior wrote:
John Bachman wrote in
:



If you manage the compost so that it gets hot the weed seeds will be
killed.

Are you sure? Seems to me I remember one of the teachers in our MG class
saying that weed seeds can survive even the hottest compost pile.
In fact,
IIRC, the first things that return after a forest fire are the weeds.


That depends on the local ecology. In areas where forest or prairie
fires are common, some perennial seeds actually require scorching before
they can germinate, and garden growers have to simulate that :-). But
many annual garden weed seeds in cool temperate climates, can't survive
fire.

I think John should have said "MOST weed seeds will be killed". For
that reason I don't put anything that has seeds in my compost pile.


I have several compost heaps, at least two being filled at any one
time. One is specially for seedy weeds. Its a black plastic dalek shape,
in the sun, and gets very hot inside. The compost that comes from it, is
buried in holes underground; for filling bean trenches, planting shrubs
and such like. Most garden weed seeds require light to germinate so, if
any do survive composting, they've no hope of germinating deep down
under the soil surface.


Also, seeds may germinate during composting while still in the
topmost/outermost layers of the pile where temps are lowest. A
well-maintained compost is turned more than once, which allows more than
one opportunity to send new sprouts down into the hottest zone where
they will be killed.
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Old 30-05-2007, 10:13 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Janet Baraclough wrote in
:

The message
from Bill R contains these words:

FragileWarrior wrote:
John Bachman wrote in
:



If you manage the compost so that it gets hot the weed seeds will
be killed.


Are you sure? Seems to me I remember one of the teachers in our MG
class saying that weed seeds can survive even the hottest compost
pile. In fact,
IIRC, the first things that return after a forest fire are the
weeds.


That depends on the local ecology. In areas where forest or
prairie
fires are common, some perennial seeds actually require scorching
before they can germinate, and garden growers have to simulate that
:-). But many annual garden weed seeds in cool temperate climates,
can't survive fire.

I think John should have said "MOST weed seeds will be killed". For
that reason I don't put anything that has seeds in my compost pile.


I have several compost heaps, at least two being filled at any one
time. One is specially for seedy weeds. Its a black plastic dalek
shape, in the sun, and gets very hot inside. The compost that comes
from it, is buried in holes underground; for filling bean trenches,
planting shrubs and such like. Most garden weed seeds require light to
germinate so, if any do survive composting, they've no hope of
germinating deep down under the soil surface.

Janet.


Now THAT'S an excellent idea!
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Old 30-05-2007, 10:42 PM posted to rec.gardens
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On 29 May 2007 21:15:43 -0700, MajorOz wrote:
In that vein, I intend to venture into composting.
The cleared portion of my land, around the buildings, that I mow
comprises about four or so acres of generic local weeds, fescue that
has blown in from the neighbors up the road, and whatever forbs and
juvie trees take root come spring. I have no "lawn".
Can I gather these clippings and, after the proper treatment and
ageing, use them in the garden, with the roses and other flowers, or
as cover / mulch here and there? Will doing so simply re-distribute
weed seed?


Hot composting will take care of weed seeds -- but it can be difficult to
maintain a pile at requisite temperatures. Better to cut before
seeds actually form. 140oF for several days is considered "enough to
kill weed seeds". You might also solarize compost after you make it,
if the weed seed issue is a big one.

I manage my 63 acres for wildlife, and plant trees and brush from the
state -- too damn many trees to keep up with Would the well aged
compost from these clippings be OK to put in the "holes" that the
trees get planted in?


Recent work says that trees should be planted in unimproved "native"
soil for better root growth. Improve the soil too much and the roots
tend to stay in the dug hole.

I don't know when you're cutting, but be aware that cutting at the same
time each year can favor certain plant species over other ones, and by
doing so, you can really disrupt native insects and so forth that
you can actually negatively effect the animals you're managing for.

Kay

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Old 30-05-2007, 10:53 PM posted to rec.gardens
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Kay Lancaster wrote in
:

Recent work says that trees should be planted in unimproved "native"
soil for better root growth. Improve the soil too much and the roots
tend to stay in the dug hole.


Absolutlely. To further expound on the theory, if the dirt in the hole is
too wonderful and rich, when the nice tender new roots reach the native
soil (which here in Indiana is killer CLAY) they simply don't have the
strength to go any further. What you get, therefore, is a weak tree with a
root ball that only grows in that nice stuff you gave it way back when.
Backfill with native soil for the best chance at survival.


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Old 31-05-2007, 12:03 AM posted to rec.gardens
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On Wed, 30 May 2007 21:53:50 +0000 (UTC), FragileWarrior
wrote:

Kay Lancaster wrote in
:

Recent work says that trees should be planted in unimproved "native"
soil for better root growth. Improve the soil too much and the roots
tend to stay in the dug hole.


Absolutlely. To further expound on the theory, if the dirt in the hole is
too wonderful and rich, when the nice tender new roots reach the native
soil (which here in Indiana is killer CLAY) they simply don't have the
strength to go any further. What you get, therefore, is a weak tree with a
root ball that only grows in that nice stuff you gave it way back when.
Backfill with native soil for the best chance at survival.


Doh.......just when I gets to thinkin' I am pretty durned smart, I
learns summat new.

Thank you both for this, and it makes perfect sense. I have had some
problems with trees in the past, particularly when we get hot dry
winds.

Thank goodness it has been raining and the new apples still aren't in.
I was going to make a mistake, for sure.

Gratefully
Charlie
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Old 31-05-2007, 01:36 AM posted to rec.gardens
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On 29 May 2007 21:15:43 -0700, MajorOz wrote:

I have gardened on and off for a number of years, but have really
jumped into veggies and landscaping since I got a place in the boonies
eight years ago. I don't seem to have too many problems with the
basics, and I go organic as much as I can.

In that vein, I intend to venture into composting.
The cleared portion of my land, around the buildings, that I mow
comprises about four or so acres of generic local weeds, fescue that
has blown in from the neighbors up the road, and whatever forbs and
juvie trees take root come spring. I have no "lawn".
Can I gather these clippings and, after the proper treatment and
ageing, use them in the garden, with the roses and other flowers, or
as cover / mulch here and there? Will doing so simply re-distribute
weed seed?

I manage my 63 acres for wildlife, and plant trees and brush from the
state -- too damn many trees to keep up with Would the well aged
compost from these clippings be OK to put in the "holes" that the
trees get planted in?

Thanx for any help.

cheers

oz


When planting a tree, make the hole as deep as the root ball, no
deeper. Make the diameter of the hole twice the size of the root
ball. The tree will benefit with compost around the root ball, but
not underneath it.
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Old 31-05-2007, 05:41 AM posted to rec.gardens
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Thank you all so much for the information. I am googling around for
references for compost piles. It looks like it would be best to do
two -- one for strictly what passes for grass in the area I keep
mowed, and the other for all else, including garden culls. I
especially like the idea of solar absorption for heating the pile(s).
Thanx again

cheers

oz, who just finished off the berry patch by planting three kinds of
Ukranian gooseberries

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Old 31-05-2007, 03:37 PM posted to rec.gardens
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"MajorOz" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thank you all so much for the information. I am googling around for
references for compost piles. It looks like it would be best to do
two -- one for strictly what passes for grass in the area I keep
mowed, and the other for all else, including garden culls. I
especially like the idea of solar absorption for heating the
pile(s).
Thanx again


Why would you want to separate out the grass?

Bob


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Old 01-06-2007, 01:27 AM posted to rec.gardens
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"FragileWarrior" wrote in message
...
John McWilliams wrote in
:

John Bachman wrote:
On Thu, 31 May 2007 22:30:17 -0700, MajorOz
wrote:

On May 31, 9:37 am, "Bob F" wrote:
"MajorOz" wrote in message

oups.com...

Thank you all so much for the information. I am googling around

for
references for compost piles. It looks like it would be best to do
two -- one for strictly what passes for grass in the area I keep
mowed, and the other for all else, including garden culls. I
especially like the idea of solar absorption for heating the
pile(s).
Thanx again
Why would you want to separate out the grass?

Bob
Just speculating here, but:
1. Seems the grass one would decompose faster if it's just grass --
no woody stalks, etc.
2. Less likely to contain large numbers of weed seed.

Grass mats down when not mixed with other materials. I use a grass
clipping and leaves mixture when I make compost and it works just fine
with few weed seeds and good, rapid decomposition with frequent
turning.


Green grass all by itself tends to rot into a soggy mess, resembling
what dogs produce when they eat a bunch of grass. IIRC.


Maybe but at least it doesn't appear on your bedroom floor in the middle
of the night after being announced with several long and disgusting hork
noises.


Yes it does when your mutt tramps it in or goes burrowing into it looking
for some disgusting crap smelling 'treat'.

Worse still though stumbling off to the bog in the dark to find the grass
that has been recycled by said mutt somewhere in your path.

rob


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