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#16
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Any new ideas to get rid of moles?
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:55:13 -0500,
(Pat Kiewicz) wrote: snip What I'd like to know is, exactly what trap and any tips for setting it up you might have to offer. I've not been successful with traps. This year I got lucky and managed to get one with quick shovel work. (I'd been clued to it's presence by a robin that was taking advantage of all the worms the mole was chasing to the surface.) I get some spots that get hazardously soft from constant mole tunnelling (not good for someone with knee and tendon problems). snip Hi Pat, I would recommend reading over this page: http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm I haven't tried the scissors trap but would like to. I just haven't been able to find any sold in my area and really didn't want to mail order just a trap or two. The best harpoon style traps are about 2 feet long/tall. I have two and I don't believe they are sold anymore. You maybe able to find old ones at garage sales and such. The harpoons pictured in the above link work okay, but not as well as the old larger version. The "Nash" style choker trap is only good under specific conditions. It works good in a loose garden soil situation but not so good in lawn/sod. It is really difficult to set in the latter conditions. I have caught moles with it though in the garden. Follow the above links instructions to set the trap over a shallow run/tunnel. The big pushed up mounds are no good for setting traps. Try to keep human scent away from the tunnel area (ie don't go poking around in the tunnel with your fingers). You should see results (sprung trap or new tunnel around the trap in two days or less. If not move the trap to a new spot. It you think you have caught a mole, stick your finger down (a little digging with a hand trowel can help) beside the tines (try both sides) and feel around first for a mole. If you just pull the trap out there is a good chance the mole will be pulled off the tines and it will boogie off pronto. Moles are pretty tuff and quite often are very alive yet with several harpoons rammed through them. If you still have some specific questions ask away (email is okay too). I've been reasonably successful trapping moles through the years. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#17
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Any new ideas to get rid of moles?
"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
... On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:55:13 -0500, (Pat Kiewicz) wrote: snip What I'd like to know is, exactly what trap and any tips for setting it up you might have to offer. I've not been successful with traps. This year I got lucky and managed to get one with quick shovel work. (I'd been clued to it's presence by a robin that was taking advantage of all the worms the mole was chasing to the surface.) I get some spots that get hazardously soft from constant mole tunnelling (not good for someone with knee and tendon problems). snip Hi Pat, I would recommend reading over this page: http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm I haven't tried the scissors trap but would like to. I just haven't been able to find any sold in my area and really didn't want to mail order just a trap or two. The best harpoon style traps are about 2 feet long/tall. I have two and I don't believe they are sold anymore. You maybe able to find old ones at garage sales and such. The harpoons pictured in the above link work okay, but not as well as the old larger version. The "Nash" style choker trap is only good under specific conditions. It works good in a loose garden soil situation but not so good in lawn/sod. It is really difficult to set in the latter conditions. I have caught moles with it though in the garden. Follow the above links instructions to set the trap over a shallow run/tunnel. The big pushed up mounds are no good for setting traps. Try to keep human scent away from the tunnel area (ie don't go poking around in the tunnel with your fingers). You should see results (sprung trap or new tunnel around the trap in two days or less. If not move the trap to a new spot. It you think you have caught a mole, stick your finger down (a little digging with a hand trowel can help) beside the tines (try both sides) and feel around first for a mole. If you just pull the trap out there is a good chance the mole will be pulled off the tines and it will boogie off pronto. Moles are pretty tuff and quite often are very alive yet with several harpoons rammed through them. If you still have some specific questions ask away (email is okay too). I've been reasonably successful trapping moles through the years. fill the tunnel with propane, and light it. |
#18
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Any new ideas to get rid of moles?
On Aug 29, 9:58 am, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 05:55:13 -0500, (Pat Kiewicz) wrote: snipWhat I'd like to know is, exactly what trap and any tips for setting it up you might have to offer. I've not been successful with traps. This year I got lucky and managed to get one with quick shovel work. (I'd been clued to it's presence by a robin that was taking advantage of all the worms the mole was chasing to the surface.) I get some spots that get hazardously soft from constant mole tunnelling (not good for someone with knee and tendon problems). snip Hi Pat, I would recommend reading over this page: http://www.themoleman.com/control.htm I haven't tried the scissors trap but would like to. I just haven't been able to find any sold in my area and really didn't want to mail order just a trap or two. The best harpoon style traps are about 2 feet long/tall. I have two and I don't believe they are sold anymore. You maybe able to find old ones at garage sales and such. The harpoons pictured in the above link work okay, but not as well as the old larger version. The "Nash" style choker trap is only good under specific conditions. It works good in a loose garden soil situation but not so good in lawn/sod. It is really difficult to set in the latter conditions. I have caught moles with it though in the garden. Follow the above links instructions to set the trap over a shallow run/tunnel. The big pushed up mounds are no good for setting traps. Try to keep human scent away from the tunnel area (ie don't go poking around in the tunnel with your fingers). You should see results (sprung trap or new tunnel around the trap in two days or less. If not move the trap to a new spot. It you think you have caught a mole, stick your finger down (a little digging with a hand trowel can help) beside the tines (try both sides) and feel around first for a mole. If you just pull the trap out there is a good chance the mole will be pulled off the tines and it will boogie off pronto. Moles are pretty tuff and quite often are very alive yet with several harpoons rammed through them. If you still have some specific questions ask away (email is okay too). I've been reasonably successful trapping moles through the years. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email Several twisting weeders and augers can help you damage the mole tunnels without doing too much visible damage to your lawn and garden. Moles will usually abandon damaged tunnels. These tools can also be useful for setting up your traps or bait, if needed. You can also use these tools to go mole hunting. But you need a lot of time and the patience of a cat, for this endeavor. Search for twisting weeders in your favorite search engine. _________________________________ At peace with weeds and moles... |
#19
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Quote:
Forgot buying a Tomcat Mole Killer! Or anything else! Use a plumbers hand-held butane gas bottle, length of hose, dig out mole hill and search for mole run and then insert length of hose, connect butane bottle and gas the little blighter. Continue this at several mole hills. Harsh but effective! |
#20
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Use a plumbers hand-held butane gas bottle, length of hose, dig out mole hill and search for mole run and then insert length of hose, connect butane bottle and gas the little blighter. Continue this at several mole hills. Harsh but effective!
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