The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

In article
,
Higgs Boson wrote:

The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Nothing wrong with the concept of going fallow. Just away of saying not
planting anything for a year or more. Not gardening is a lot like
fasting easy to say difficult to do.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_rotation

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden
What use one more wake up call?

On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 12:11:12 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA


We had the wilt, as did the rest of the NE, pretty bad last year and
lost tomatoes, cukes and potatoes. Re-planting last year, even in
fresh, unused (bagged Miracle-Gro) topsoil, did not help. The weather
was just too miserable.

This year is proving - at least so far - to be bumper for tomatoes and
cukes. We garden in tubs and I did plant in fresh soil and compost.
Flowers, beans, peas and greens went into the pots/tubs that showed
blight last year.

WE will, probably, get some late blight, but that is common for this
part of NJ and will show up later.

Boron

On Jul 8, 12:11*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:
The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. *Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. *I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." *Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. *Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. *(Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. *It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. *Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Thanks to those who replied.

Anybody used the chemical I described ?

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

Your results?

TIA

Higgs Boson wrote:
The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.




2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?



I think you have a long enough growing season so you can afford to
experiment. If it were here (Denver, where our frosts/freezes can be as
little as 90 days apart) I'd be more aggressive about a cure. Do you
think a fungus will survive a long, dry period? I'd talk to a county ag
extension representative and see what they say.

gloria p

In article
,
Higgs Boson wrote:

The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Dear Mrs. Lieberman, I'm guessing verticillium, or fusarium oxysporum
wilt. Three to ten years quarantine at best. Five years from now, if you
take a chance and plant, and the wilt returns, you start all over again.
My suggestion is to find an impermeable barrier to cove the area with,
and go to raised gardens. It will be easier on your aging back, as well.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene

In article
,
Higgs Boson wrote:

On Jul 8, 12:11*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:
The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. *Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. *I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." *Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. *Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. *(Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. *It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. *Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Thanks to those who replied.

Anybody used the chemical I described ?

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

Your results?

TIA

Dear Mrs. Lieberman, I think the point here is, that with or without
your mellifluous sounding disease control, you have a waiting period of
3 to 10 years before the soil is once more safe. Outcome doesn't change.
What does that say about the efficacy of your purchase?
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene

In article ,
Boron Elgar wrote:

On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 12:11:12 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA


We had the wilt, as did the rest of the NE, pretty bad last year and
lost tomatoes, cukes and potatoes. Re-planting last year, even in
fresh, unused (bagged Miracle-Gro) topsoil, did not help. The weather
was just too miserable.

This year is proving - at least so far - to be bumper for tomatoes and
cukes. We garden in tubs and I did plant in fresh soil and compost.
Flowers, beans, peas and greens went into the pots/tubs that showed
blight last year.

WE will, probably, get some late blight, but that is common for this
part of NJ and will show up later.

Boron

Perhaps the nursery guy doesn't know what he is talking about, but he
wouldn't have said to wait several years, if he understands late blight.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
Higgs Boson wrote:

The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Nothing wrong with the concept of going fallow. Just away of saying not
planting anything for a year or more. Not gardening is a lot like
fasting easy to say difficult to do.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_rotation

I played this game once Bill. If it is fulsarium or verticillium, 3
years is a hard minimum. For sure, I'd shop it around. See what Master
Gardeners have to say and all that. I'm just not familiar with any other
tomato disease that has a several year quarantine on it. It will attack
all of the Solanaceae Family, and basil, among other plants. That said I
did grow lettuce, beets, parsley, and chives in the same plot with no
ill effect to them.
Mrs. Lieberman may want to get a list of plants that's not affected by
fulsarium, or verticillium wilts.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene

In article
,
Billy wrote:

In article ,
Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
Higgs Boson wrote:

The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Nothing wrong with the concept of going fallow. Just away of saying not
planting anything for a year or more. Not gardening is a lot like
fasting easy to say difficult to do.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_rotation

I played this game once Bill. If it is fulsarium or verticillium, 3
years is a hard minimum. For sure, I'd shop it around. See what Master
Gardeners have to say and all that. I'm just not familiar with any other
tomato disease that has a several year quarantine on it. It will attack
all of the Solanaceae Family, and basil, among other plants. That said I
did grow lettuce, beets, parsley, and chives in the same plot with no
ill effect to them.
Mrs. Lieberman may want to get a list of plants that's not affected by
fulsarium, or verticillium wilts.

My fried Ralph about 4 miles away can't grow eggplant. This going on
I'd guess 15 years. This from a S. Jersey truck farmer tradition.
This wilt /disease stuff is a real concern and with the mold/fungus
issues about we all must try to garden healthy or clean which is almost
impossible as we encourage death and rot to become new life. Don't know.

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden
What use one more wake up call?

On Jul 8, 1:12*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Jul 8, 12:11*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:



The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. *Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. *I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." *Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. *Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. *(Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. *It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. *Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Thanks to those who replied.

Anybody used the chemical I described ?

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." *Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

Your results?

TIA

There is one way to go that has not been mentioned: that is to plant
verticillium/
fusarium resistant tomatoes. I have verticillium here in various
spots; this was
an old almond orchard and the disease is left from then. That was
over 25 years
ago and yes it is still here. But I plant tomatoes that have
VF1F2 following
the name and also rotate my planting spots every year. I like Park's
Whopper
and Park's Beefy Boy. They also hold well in our hot summers.They
will also
keep going until freezing temps, so you could still get a crop... if
you can find them.

Also, this cold, wet, cloudy winter was also responsible for the
fungal Rust on
the roses. It's going away with the hot, dry weather recently. But
it's still much
more humid here than usual.

Emilie
NorCal

In article
,
mleblanca wrote:

On Jul 8, 1:12*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Jul 8, 12:11*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:



The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. *Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. *I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." *Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. *Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. *(Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. *It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. *Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Thanks to those who replied.

Anybody used the chemical I described ?

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." *Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

Your results?

TIA

There is one way to go that has not been mentioned: that is to plant
verticillium/
fusarium resistant tomatoes. I have verticillium here in various
spots; this was
an old almond orchard and the disease is left from then. That was
over 25 years
ago and yes it is still here. But I plant tomatoes that have
VF1F2 following
the name and also rotate my planting spots every year. I like Park's
Whopper
and Park's Beefy Boy. They also hold well in our hot summers.They
will also
keep going until freezing temps, so you could still get a crop... if
you can find them.

Also, this cold, wet, cloudy winter was also responsible for the
fungal Rust on
the roses. It's going away with the hot, dry weather recently. But
it's still much
more humid here than usual.

Emilie
NorCal

Tell me again. How much cooler are you than the big town next to you?
What was your temp today? Just comparing terroires. We were only 76°F
today.
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene

On Fri, 09 Jul 2010 07:30:18 -0600, wrote:

First you need to find out what you REALLY have. Then read everything you can on the
web
...a true wilt seldom occurs in tomato, at least not until late in the season
....Tomatoes and potatoes must have at least a day of saturated soil before infection
occurs.

Control
1. resistant varieties
2. raised beds that drain quickly
3. new soil over plastic that blocks the fungus
4. even moisture and dont over fertilize.


You have some interesting information, but there are circumstances in
which wilt DOES come early and its attack is swift and devastating. We
were hit with it in the NE last season.

You can read up on it here, or do some more searching of your own.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/09/opinion/09barber.html

The article says, in part:

The latest trouble is the explosion of late blight, a plant disease
that attacks potatoes and tomatoes. Late blight appears innocent
enough at first — a few brown spots here, some lesions there — but it
spreads fast. Although the fungus isn’t harmful to humans, it has
devastating effects on tomatoes and potatoes grown outdoors. Plants
that appear relatively healthy one day, with abundant fruit and
vibrant stems, can turn toxic within a few days. (See the Irish potato
famine, caused by a strain of the fungus.)

Most farmers in the Northeast, accustomed to variable conditions, have
come to expect it in some form or another. Like a sunburn or a
mosquito bite, you’ll probably be hit by late blight sooner or later,
and while there are steps farmers can take to minimize its damage and
even avoid it completely, the disease is almost always present, if not
active.

But this year is turning out to be different — quite different,
according to farmers and plant scientists. For one thing, the disease
appeared much earlier than usual. Late blight usually comes, well,
late in the growing season, as fungal spores spread from plant to
plant. So its early arrival caught just about everyone off guard.

And then there’s the perniciousness of the 2009 blight. The pace of
the disease (it covered the Northeast in just a few days) and its
strength (topical copper sprays, a convenient organic preventive, have
been much less effective than in past years) have shocked even
hardened Hudson Valley farmers.

On Thu, 08 Jul 2010 15:28:48 -0700, Billy
wrote:

In article ,
Boron Elgar wrote:

On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 12:11:12 -0700 (PDT), Higgs Boson
wrote:

2. Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. (Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA


We had the wilt, as did the rest of the NE, pretty bad last year and
lost tomatoes, cukes and potatoes. Re-planting last year, even in
fresh, unused (bagged Miracle-Gro) topsoil, did not help. The weather
was just too miserable.

This year is proving - at least so far - to be bumper for tomatoes and
cukes. We garden in tubs and I did plant in fresh soil and compost.
Flowers, beans, peas and greens went into the pots/tubs that showed
blight last year.

WE will, probably, get some late blight, but that is common for this
part of NJ and will show up later.

Boron

Perhaps the nursery guy doesn't know what he is talking about, but he
wouldn't have said to wait several years, if he understands late blight.


I have never gardened here in northern NJ and NOT gotten late blight.
The hope is that most of the harvest is in before it gets really bad.

Although it is harbored in soil, it is also wind-borne and highly
affected by the weather, so that a perfect storm of weather conditions
can spread it early and rapidly. That is what happened last year and
in a matter of days, whole commercial plantings were wiped out on some
farms.

Many backyard gardeners do not have the capability of serious crop
rotation or allowing parts of the tillage to lie fallow....the space
available and usable just isn't that large., so we have our own
workarounds.

Even with my tub/pot gardening and ability to control the soil and
enhanced sterilization, late wilt is almost unavoidable with many
varieties. It is just a fact of life in this climate, as is the near
impossibility of successfully growing, say, peaches with no/little
chemical intervention. Hot, humid conditions favor fungi. I have
learned to live with it and if I want to grow tomatoes with the
flavors and characteristics I prefer, then I have to accept the wilt,
too. 'Taint fun.

Boron

In article
,
mleblanca wrote:

On Jul 8, 1:12*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:
On Jul 8, 12:11*pm, Higgs Boson wrote:



The "wilt" or whatever it is got so bad that I pulled up several large
plants that were not producing. *Also trimmed all the foliage
(infected, dried) from the remaining plants and left ONLY the tomatoes
to (I HOPE!) ripen.

Asked the nursery and they said the weather here (Santa Monica CA) has
been so overcast and humid that fungus or whatever has flourished.

1. *I want to protect the remaining plants (volunteers -- not the ones
from Home Despot that I tossed).
Nursery sold me product whose label reads:

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." *Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

This from AGRA Quest, not my favorite among corporate ag. giants.

2. *Nursery guy also said that I should not replant edibles in that
area; that I should remove the earth to a depth of (I think he said )
about 6" or more; that it would take "several years" for the area to
recover. *(Assuming it is infected).

That sounds pretty drastic to me; esp removing the earth. *It's been
suggested by a landscape friend that I PLANT some edibles, even
tomatoes, in that area to see what happens to them. *Perhaps wait
until this unseasonable cool and damp gives way to usual summer heat.

What do you think?

TIA

Thanks to those who replied.

Anybody used the chemical I described ?

"Serenade garden Disease Control: Can be used for organic gardens.
Fungicide that attacks harmful garden diseases." *Active ingredient is
QST 713 strain of Bacillus subtilis 0.074%.

Your results?

TIA

There is one way to go that has not been mentioned: that is to plant
verticillium/
fusarium resistant tomatoes. I have verticillium here in various
spots; this was
an old almond orchard and the disease is left from then. That was
over 25 years
ago and yes it is still here. But I plant tomatoes that have
VF1F2 following
the name and also rotate my planting spots every year. I like Park's
Whopper
and Park's Beefy Boy. They also hold well in our hot summers.They
will also
keep going until freezing temps, so you could still get a crop... if
you can find them.

Also, this cold, wet, cloudy winter was also responsible for the
fungal Rust on
the roses. It's going away with the hot, dry weather recently. But
it's still much
more humid here than usual.

Emilie
NorCal

Good call, if Mrs. Lieberman would go to
http://msucares.com/newsletters/pests/infobytes/19990325.htm
she will see a list of resistant tomatoes.
Park's Whopper seems to be resistant to everything and only needs 65
days or so to get to maturity. Dang, Mrs. L could grow it from seed if
she wanted.
Days to Maturity
Large Fruit Varieties
€ Park's Whopper Improved VFNT 65 days
€ Better Boy VFN 70 days
€ Lemon Boy VFN 75 days
€ Enchantment VFN
€ Celebrity VFNT 75 days
€ Miracle Sweet VFNT
€ Abraham Lincoln Improved VFN 75 days
€ Daybreak VF
€ Floramerica VF
€ Sunmaster VF
€ Mountain Delight VF
€ Mountain Pride VF
€ Mountain Spring VF
€ Sunny VF
Giant Beefsteaks Varieties
€ Big Beef VFNT 75 days
€ Beefmaster VFN 75 days
€ Burpee Supersteak VFN 85 days
Small Fruit Varieties
€ Sweet Chelsea VFNT
€ Small Fry VFN
€ Supersweet 100 VF
€ Cherry Grande VF
€ Maya VF
€ Golden Cherry FT
€ Suncherry FT
Patio Tomatoes Variety
€ Patio VF
Check with your garden supply store for other varieties which are
resistant to fungus wilts and root-knot nematodes. Remember that while
these varieties are resistant to certain diseases, there is no single
variety which is resistant to all diseases which affect the crop. So,
you'll still have to maintain a fungicide application program for early
blight, Septoria leaf spot, and some of the other fungus diseases for
which resistant varieties aren't widely available.
-----

Good luck Mrs. "L", and say, "hi" to Avigdor.

Allahu Akbar
--
- Billy
"Fascism should more properly be called corporatism because it is the
merger of state and corporate power." - Benito Mussolini.
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/7/2/maude
http://www.democracynow.org/2010/6/2...al_crime_scene