I have a neighbor who is into organic foods and she has seen me
fertilizing my stuff with fertilizer. Just your typical Miracle grow
stuff. From what I know, all it is is proportions of
nitrogen/phosphorus/potatsium (I.E. 10-45-10). I explained to her that it is
basically like giving the plants vitamins, and that there should be no cause
for concern when using it. Am I correct?
Thanks,
Scott

Nonya wrote:

I have a neighbor who is into organic foods and she has seen me
fertilizing my stuff with fertilizer. Just your typical Miracle grow
stuff. From what I know, all it is is proportions of
nitrogen/phosphorus/potatsium (I.E. 10-45-10). I explained to her that it is
basically like giving the plants vitamins, and that there should be no cause
for concern when using it. Am I correct?
Thanks,
Scott

Miracle Gro (and other "blue water" fertilizers) are chemically synthesized
products. While there should be little, if any, health concerns about eating
food crops that are fertilized by this method, they cannot be considered
"organic", which requires NO chemical additives of any kind.

FWIW, most chemical fertilizers tend to be quick release, providing nutrients in
a manner like plant junk food - a sugar high, but no sustainable long term
benefits. Much better to use natural (or organic) ferts, which by nature are
slow release - the nutrients are made available to plants over a longer period
of time as they need them. Better long term results with no heavy flushes of
lush growth that is vulnerable to insects and diseases. With the exception of
containerized plantings and regular veggie gardens where nutrients are rapidly
depleted due to frequent cropping and harvesting, improved soil and very little
supplemental fertilizing is the way to go. We gardeners tend to over do the
whole fertilizer thing........

Thanks...

I try to hold true that moderation is the key to everything! I only use
fertilizer to establish root growth in my veggie garden and maintain a more
natural soil by using my own compost materials. I just wanted to make sure
that "synthesized" fertilizer dosn't contain anything "unnatural," other
than the N-P-K components. I appreciate the feedback.
Scott

"Pam" wrote in message
...


Nonya wrote:

I have a neighbor who is into organic foods and she has seen me
fertilizing my stuff with fertilizer. Just your typical Miracle grow
stuff. From what I know, all it is is proportions of
nitrogen/phosphorus/potatsium (I.E. 10-45-10). I explained to her that
it is
basically like giving the plants vitamins, and that there should be no
cause
for concern when using it. Am I correct?
Thanks,
Scott

Miracle Gro (and other "blue water" fertilizers) are chemically
synthesized
products. While there should be little, if any, health concerns about
eating
food crops that are fertilized by this method, they cannot be considered
"organic", which requires NO chemical additives of any kind.

FWIW, most chemical fertilizers tend to be quick release, providing
nutrients in
a manner like plant junk food - a sugar high, but no sustainable long term
benefits. Much better to use natural (or organic) ferts, which by nature
are
slow release - the nutrients are made available to plants over a longer
period
of time as they need them. Better long term results with no heavy flushes
of
lush growth that is vulnerable to insects and diseases. With the exception
of
containerized plantings and regular veggie gardens where nutrients are
rapidly
depleted due to frequent cropping and harvesting, improved soil and very
little
supplemental fertilizing is the way to go. We gardeners tend to over do
the
whole fertilizer thing........

"Nonya" wrote in message ...
I have a neighbor who is into organic foods and she has seen me
fertilizing my stuff with fertilizer. Just your typical Miracle grow
stuff. From what I know, all it is is proportions of
nitrogen/phosphorus/potatsium (I.E. 10-45-10). I explained to her that it is
basically like giving the plants vitamins, and that there should be no cause
for concern when using it. Am I correct?
Thanks,
Scott

The plants don't know the difference between nitrogen synthesized from
natural gas and nitrogen from horse ****. The same applies to
phosphorus and potassium
If nutrients were the only thing going on in the soil it really
wouldn't matter at all.
What does know the difference are all the soil organisms from bacteria
and fungi to worms. By maintaining a wide diversity of soil organisms
you end up with a healthier garden requiring less intervention for
problems and providing a reserve of nutrients in their bodies and in
undecayed materials.
A lot of the chemical fertilizers bring other things along with them
besides the stated N-P-K these can be everything from salt to heavy
metals like lead and cadmium.
Both you and your organic neighbor should start with a soil test and
then feed based on the results.
Most Cooperative Extension centers offer reasonably priced tests.
Every county in the USA has an extension as a result of the Morrill
act and land grant colleges.
In CT where everything is expensive and the Governer is an idiot a
soil test is still only 5$ which is quite a bargain.

(Beecrofter) wrote:

The plants don't know the difference between nitrogen synthesized from
natural gas and nitrogen from horse ****. The same applies to
phosphorus and potassium

This is not true. One would be much more acidic than the other. And
plants can't use the nitrogen in the air. Air is 80% nitrogen. So
where one nitrogen could help a plant, another could kill it and another
would just blow by. Most nitrogen fertilizers are ammonias or nitrates
or ammonia nitrates. Urea is related to ammonia but is slower acting
and usually preferred.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://www.users.fast.net/~shenning

Nonya wrote:
I have a neighbor who is into organic foods and she has seen me
fertilizing my stuff with fertilizer. Just your typical Miracle grow
stuff. From what I know, all it is is proportions of
nitrogen/phosphorus/potatsium (I.E. 10-45-10). I explained to her that
it is
basically like giving the plants vitamins, and that there should be no
cause
for concern when using it. Am I correct?

Basically, you're correct. Assuming that you're applying at or below the
levels in the package instructions. I certainly would have no problem
eating vegetables that have been given Miracle Grow.

On the other hand, they're no longer what you could call "organic". If
that's a big deal to your neighbor, then it sounds to me like you won't
have to worry about her stealing anything from your garden!

Without getting into minute details, everyone has their own level of
tolerance for use of chemicals on various plants. Some people think that
the key is the chemicals, and some people think the key is to never use
anything non-organic. As for myself, I believe that one should start
with an organic approach, and stray only when necessary, or desirable to
reach specific goals. How one applies this philosophy to various
situations (lawn, flowers, vegetables, trees, etc.) may be very
different, and I'm much more careful about what I use on or near
anything I plan to eat.

I'm not a fan of extremism. You might say I'm extremely against
extremism.

--
Warren H.

==========
Disclaimer: My views reflect those of myself, and not my
employer, my friends, nor (as she often tells me) my wife.
Any resemblance to the views of anybody living or dead is
coincidental. No animals were hurt in the writing of this
response -- unless you count my dog who desperately wants
to go outside now.

I have a neighbor who is into organic foods and she has seen me
fertilizing my stuff with fertilizer. Just your typical Miracle grow
stuff. From what I know, all it is is proportions of
nitrogen/phosphorus/potatsium (I.E. 10-45-10). I explained to her that it is
basically like giving the plants vitamins, and that there should be no cause
for concern when using it. Am I correct?
Thanks,
Scott


Yes to the extent that the soluble intake of N-P-K is the same regardless of
the source. However, remember that many gardeners have their own mindset and
arguing methods is like arguing religion. It just raises both parties blood
pressure but accomplishes nothing. Experiment to find what works best for you,
then smile and ignore advice that doesn't.

A smart gardener would do some simple soil tests and base their
organic or sustainable garden fertilization on what soil needs to feed
plants.

Brix reading of miracle grow vegetables show them for what they are,
poor nutrition.



On 20 May 2003 19:29:14 GMT, (FarmerDill) wrote:


I have a neighbor who is into organic foods and she has seen me
fertilizing my stuff with fertilizer. Just your typical Miracle grow
stuff. From what I know, all it is is proportions of
nitrogen/phosphorus/potatsium (I.E. 10-45-10). I explained to her that it is
basically like giving the plants vitamins, and that there should be no cause
for concern when using it. Am I correct?
Thanks,
Scott


Yes to the extent that the soluble intake of N-P-K is the same regardless of
the source. However, remember that many gardeners have their own mindset and
arguing methods is like arguing religion. It just raises both parties blood
pressure but accomplishes nothing. Experiment to find what works best for you,
then smile and ignore advice that doesn't.



"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

I appreciate the post but, what do you mean by Brix?


"Tom Jaszewski" wrote in message
...
A smart gardener would do some simple soil tests and base their
organic or sustainable garden fertilization on what soil needs to feed
plants.

Brix reading of miracle grow vegetables show them for what they are,
poor nutrition.



On 20 May 2003 19:29:14 GMT, (FarmerDill) wrote:


I have a neighbor who is into organic foods and she has seen me
fertilizing my stuff with fertilizer. Just your typical Miracle grow
stuff. From what I know, all it is is proportions of
nitrogen/phosphorus/potatsium (I.E. 10-45-10). I explained to her that
it is
basically like giving the plants vitamins, and that there should be no
cause
for concern when using it. Am I correct?
Thanks,
Scott


Yes to the extent that the soluble intake of N-P-K is the same regardless
of
the source. However, remember that many gardeners have their own mindset
and
arguing methods is like arguing religion. It just raises both parties
blood
pressure but accomplishes nothing. Experiment to find what works best for
you,
then smile and ignore advice that doesn't.



"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of
poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy
crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

On Tue, 20 May 2003 21:38:16 -0400, "Nonya"
wrote:

I appreciate the post but, what do you mean by Brix?


Plant Tissue Test Instructions
From Pike Agri-Lab Supplies, Inc.

Introduction:

This method of plant sap analysis is relatively new. Sap is squeezed
from the fresh plant tissue and analyzed for Brix, pH and EC. Data
collected can be used as a tool in fertility management. Please note
that the information contained here is preliminary.

Although research continues in the area of plant sap analysis, little
interpretation data is available. Over a period of time, it is
recommended that a grower establish his own data, based on analysis
results, fertilizer applications and crop response.

Recommended tools:

ATC-1e Refractometer
Cardy Twin pH Tester
Cardy Twin EC Tester
Infra-Red Heat Gun
Plant Juice Extractor (modified vise grips)
Carrying Case & Instructions
OVERVIEW OF CROP MANAGEMENT
USING PLANT TISSUE TESTS
The following outline shows how you may be able to make improvements,
based on the teachings of Carey Reams:

At the end of a growing season, lightly incorporate that year’s
organic matter into the top layers of the soil along with a complete
nutrient and microbe package.
Perform a soil test that evaluates the availability of major plant
nutrients.
Add nutrients in order to balance the major nutrients during fall or
spring.
Make sure that the soil contains proper levels of air, water, and
organic matter, so that the microbes can build humus to satisfy the
needs of the plants.
Test the plant sap as soon as leaves are large enough to squeeze
several drops of juice for testing. Perform the following tests to
determine the needs of plants at any time during the season or at any
growth-stage:
Total dissolved solids (or Brix), measured with the ATC-1e
Refractometer. This number indicates the level of balance of nutrient
uptake and complexing into sugars or proteins in the photosynthesis
factory – the leaf. If Brix is low, even after several hours of
sunshine, some element(s) are missing in the photosynthesis factory.
Ions, if present, have not been "complexed" into sugars or proteins.
pH, measured with the Cardy pH Twin Meter, indicates elements, which
may be out of balance. For pH6.4, consider if there is a need for Ca,
Mg, K, or Na. For pH6.4, consider possible need for phosphates or
sulfates. If the proper elements are selected and applied, the Brix
reading will increase and the pH will go to the desired area of
approximately 6.4.
EC, measured with the Cardy Twin EC Meter, indicates the level of
simple ion uptake into the plant sap. With low Brix crop, if sap EC is
too low, elements are not being made available to the plant. Look at
the EC of soil/water extract (or ERGS) and take appropriate steps to
correct the condition. If sap EC is too high, elements or ions are not
being "complexed" and ions such as nitrate nitrogen may be at
excessive levels.
In addition to the plant sap tests above, the following tests can be
useful in monitoring the health of your crops:
I.R. Stress, measured with an InfraRed Sensor. The more elevated the
foliage temperature is above ambient air temperature, the more stress
the plant is exhibiting. This is especially useful for identifying
"hot spots" in your fields.
Chlorophyll, measured with a chlorophyll meter. The chlorophyll
reading can be especially useful in confirming suspicions of low
nitrogen.
Soil penetration resistance, measured with a penetrometer.
Consider the test factors above when formulating foliar sprays to help
create better and more balanced nutrient uptake into the plants. Every
foliar spray should be a complete NPK and trace nutrient mix. By
controlling the pH of the foliar spray, you can promote plant growth
(foliage) early in the season, and then fruit (or root) production
later in the season. The table that follows may be useful in putting
together foliar sprays.
Brix (12) E.C. (2,000 – 12,000µS) pH
(6.4) Interpretation –
Remember: If things are not as they should be, look at factors such as
compaction and/or weed growth to help determine what your soil is
lacking.
High NA NA Good balanced microbial activity. Consider selling crop at
a premium.
Low Low Low Ions are missing. May be due to a lack of microbial
activity in the soil. Elements that act as carriers in the soil, such
as nitrogen and phosphorus may be lacking. May also be lacking
potassium or sodium. Look for soil compaction indicating that calcium
to magnesium ratio is out of balance.
Low Low High Ions are missing. May be due to a lack of microbial
activity in the soil. Elements that act as carriers in the soil, such
as nitrogen or phosphorus may be lacking. May be lacking phosphates,
sulfates, acetates, or humic acids.
Low High Low Ions are not complexed. May be due to a lack of microbial
activity in the soil. Acid producing elements or ions are at excessive
levels and not being "complexed". May be lacking calcium, magnesium,
potassium, or sodium. High salt fertilizers may have been applied.
Low High High Ions are not complexed. May be due to a lack of
microbial activity in the soil. Elements or ions such as nitrate
nitrogen are at excessive levels and not being "complexed". May be
lacking phosphate or sulfates or magnesium.

Apply the foliar spray to a test plot. After a minimum of two hours of
sunshine, test the Brix of the treated plants as well as some of the
untreated plants. If the test area is at least 2 Brix higher than the
control area, the spray was effective and can be applied to the whole
field.
General Information
Please read the instructions included with each of the meters prior to
calibrating, using, or storing them. Familiarize yourself with the
do’s & don’ts involved in the handling for long term service,
calibration, battery replacement, & other notes. Frequent calibration
will increase confidence in the accuracy of the instruments.

It is very important that the testing surfaces of the plant sap
testers (refractometer, pH, & EC meters) be thoroughly rinsed after
each use. A final rinse in distilled water is suggested. Before
testing samples, be sure to check the calibration of the meters, using
standard solution(s). Follow the calibration instructions included
with the meters.

Important Precautions

These instruments should not be dropped or handled roughly. Take extra
care with the non-waterproof meters, but even the waterproof testers
should not be completely immersed. Please check the information
provided with each meter to determine whether it is waterproof, & also
to familiarize yourself with any special care requirements. For
example:

Do not splash water on the body of the refractometer. Do not scratch
the surface of the prism.
Be very careful when cleaning the sensors of the Cardy testers. The
thin glass membranes can be easily broken or scratched. Do not press
on the sensors. Gently blot dry with a soft tissue.
PLANT SAP EXTRACTION
Sampling:

Select young leaves that are exposed to sunlight. Try to find leaves
that represent the field area to be evaluated. Try to minimize the
amount of stems and veins in the sample material.

Samples may be taken from several different plants, making sure that
sufficient material is collected for chemical analysis. Leaves or
parts of plants selected should be of the same age and relative
position on the plants. You should establish sampling procedures for
every plant type and then strictly adhere to those procedures.

Do not sample plants that show obvious signs of nutrient deficiency or
damage from disease, insects, or chemicals unless this is the subject
of the study. Plants that have been under stress for a period of time
may not give a true picture of the nutrient status of the field.

Extraction & Testing Procedu

Use a plant sap press (modified vise grips or hydraulic press system)
to squeeze sap from the leaves. Place a portion of plant material in
the press. For vise grips, leave a portion of a leaf extending beyond
the jaws. (Allow the sap to follow the leaf so that it can be easily
transferred.)
Transfer several drops onto each of the three sap testers:
refractometer, pH tester, & EC meter.
Close the lid of the refractometer and take the reading. Record.
Switch on the pH meter and wait for reading to stabilize. Record.
Switch on the EC meter and wait for reading to stabilize. Record.
Carefully clean the instruments with distilled water.
Repeat the procedure for other samples if desired.
REFRACTOMETER
Refractometers are simple optical instruments for measuring the
dissolved solids content of fruits, grasses, & vegetables during all
stages of growth. The solids (sugars, proteins, amino acids, etc.)
that are dissolved in the juice of plant tissues will bend light rays
in proportion to: the quantity of all the atoms, the atomic weight of
the elements, & the number of covalent bonds in the combinations of
atoms such as sugars. Refractometers measure in weight % sucrose in
water (Brix°) and can be calibrated with distilled water and/or sugar
standard solution. Note: the ATC-1e automatically removes errors (up
to 2 Brix°) due to changes in temperature (50-86°F).

The Brix indicates the level of balance of nutrient uptake and
complexing into sugars or proteins in the photosynthesis factory – the
leaf. If Brix is low, some element(s) are missing. Ions, if present,
have not been "complexed" into sugars or proteins. If soil nutrients
are in the best balance and are made available (by microbes) upon
demand by plants, Brix will be higher.

Taking the Brix reading

Place 2 to 3 drops of liquid sample on the prism surface, close the
cover & point toward any light source. Focus the eyepiece by turning
the ring to the right or left. Locate the point on the graduated scale
where the light & dark fields meet. Read the % sucrose (solids
content) on the scale.

For reference, pure (distilled) water reads 0 °Brix.

Other Useful Brix Tests

Test the juice of fruits, vegetables, or grasses and compare them to
the enclosed chart of Refractive Indexes (Brix readings). Within a
given species of plant, the crop with the higher refractive index will
have a higher sugar content, higher mineral content, higher protein
content and a greater specific gravity or density. This adds up to a
sweeter tasting, more minerally nutritious food (maximum nutritional
value) with lower nitrate and water content and better storage
attributes.

Crops with higher Brix will produce more alcohol from fermented sugars
and be more resistant to insects, thus resulting in decreased
insecticide usage. For insect resistance, maintain a Brix of 12 or
higher in the juice of the leaves of most plants. Crops with a higher
solids content will have a lower freezing point & therefore be less
prone to frost damage.




"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

Unless your are fattening hogs or feeding starving people, the brix
level is meaningless. It measures calories (sugars and starches), not
the nutrients we eat fruit and vegetables for. The nutrients of
interest are the vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, etc., not the
calories. Fewer calories is good. However this sap reading is also
misleading, since many larger vegetables have a more dilute sap but
contain the same amount or more of sugars and starches.

"Tom Jaszewski" wrote:

Brix reading of miracle grow vegetables show them for what they are,
poor nutrition.

Total dissolved solids (or Brix), measured with the ATC-1e
Refractometer. This number indicates the level of balance of nutrient
uptake and complexing into sugars or proteins in the photosynthesis
factory the leaf.

I am not a proponent of miracle grow or organic gardening, just truth in
posting.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA
http://www.users.fast.net/~shenning

On Wed, 21 May 2003 14:47:56 GMT, "Stephen M. Henning"
wrote:

just truth in
posting.
Then perhaps a bit more homework would be appropriate BEFORE you
imply dishonesty?


"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

On Wed, 21 May 2003 14:47:56 GMT, "Stephen M. Henning"
wrote:

Unless your are fattening hogs or feeding starving people, the brix
level is meaningless. It measures calories (sugars and starches), not
the nutrients we eat fruit and vegetables for. The nutrients of
interest are the vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, etc., not the
calories. Fewer calories is good. However this sap reading is also
misleading, since many larger vegetables have a more dilute sap but
contain the same amount or more of sugars and starches.


Many of us ARE starving nutritionally. Much of the world IS starving!

in an interview in AU Dr. Arden Anderson wrote:

Arden: You must always take environmental factors into consideration
when using a refractometer. For a start, the 12-brix reading must come
from the weakest part of the plant. You also have to consider the
dehydration issue. Dehydrated plants have concentrated sugar in the
leaf, and you will always get a higher reading. You must always
correlate brix readings with field observation. If I have a brix
reading of 20 and I have pest problems, then that is obviously an
aberrant brix reading. When we have factored in all conditions, a true
12 does not have insect problems. Let’s take sweet corn as an example.
You may take a reading of the ear and you may have 24 brix, yet the
corn borers are running rampant. What you will find with that sweet
corn is that, if you take a reading of the stem or the main roots, you
will have a brix reading of 4 or 5. What’s happening is that nature is
moving all of the carbohydrate into the ear in an attempt to reproduce
the species, so it’s a fictitious level in the cob. The other
influence at work here can be genetic manipulation and breeding, where
free sugars are forced into the fruit without the plant having the
opportunity to utilise these sugars to keep the whole plant healthy.
So, again you look at the weakest point of the plant - you don’t
measure the fruit. Another source of false brix is what we call
vascular plugging, where there is no sugar transport out of the
leaves. It just sits there, but it’s not healthy. It’s just like
constipation in humans. You could say you’re full, but you haven’t had
a bowel movement in a week. If we take these things into
consideration, then the refractometer is a very valuable tool to
monitor plant health. Remember though that all tests should be used
within a context as to what you are going to do about it. You may need
to correct a deficit or you may need to catalyse availability with a
biological, but you make that decision based on a variety of
observations, and refractometer readings are one of those. Even
conventional analysis should be considered within a context like this.
It is common, for example, using conventional leaf analysis, that you
will be told that your nitrate is low. However, your crop may be doing
fine - It’s putting on fruit, the fruit is growing and you don’t have
an insect problem. One sure way to get insect problems in this system
is to add nitrate nitrogen when it is not needed, because then you
lower your brix reading, you get more water in the plant and the
insects move in. No test data should be used in isolation. If the
field evidence contradicts the test results, then more evaluation is
needed before taking action. For all deficiencies you must always
evaluate whether it is a quantitative or qualitative deficiency.




"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."

Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978

Nitrogen ; Phosphorus; Potassium are mineral salts (Cations / Anions) they are required by a plant for growth. They are not vitamins, or organic. They do feed the plant so that proteins can be produced by the action of photosynthesis, etc.
there are soem 92 natural elements in the universe that all effect plant growth and development.
Before apply any 'Fertilisers' you need to know what is already in ther soil and its relationship with soil microbial, fungi, fauna life and so on.

Feeding a plant with Nitrate nitrogen may be required if applied in excess it will produce a weak straggly plant prone to disease and pest. nitrates are also carcinogens.

Please mail me / reply for more information and better soil health. Remember a plant will response to how we treat the soil. If we eat the produce from the plant then we too respond from the quality of the plant.
Ever wondered why there are so many sick people around?? You are what you eat. The plant is also what it eats (utilises)
Mark Atkins
Agronomist

Soil Doctor wrote:
Nitrogen ; Phosphorus; Potassium are mineral salts (Cations /
Anions) they are required by a plant for growth. They are not
vitamins, or organic. They do feed the plant so that proteins
can
be produced by the action of photosynthesis, etc.
there are soem 92 natural elements in the universe that all
effect
plant growth and development.
Before apply any 'Fertilisers' you need to know what is already
in
ther soil and its relationship with soil microbial, fungi,
fauna
life and so on.

Feeding a plant with Nitrate nitrogen may be required if
applied in
excess it will produce a weak straggly plant prone to disease
and
pest. nitrates are also carcinogens.

Please mail me / reply for more information and better soil
health.
Remember a plant will response to how we treat the soil. If we
eat
the produce from the plant then we too respond from the quality
of
the plant.
Ever wondered why there are so many sick people around?? You
are
what you eat. The plant is also what it eats (utilises)
Mark Atkins
Agronomist

I guess you didn't do too well in English 101.

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5