Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.

"Silvercaster" wrote in message
om...
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Be aware that whatever you treat your timber with will end up in/on your
veges. Personally I would not use any treatment but choose a timber that
was durable in contact with the soil in local conditions.

Google will take you to many informative sites that discuss the durability
of redwood in contact with the soil. From a quick survey it seems that the
right grade may be suitable without treatment. Do you have whiteants
(termites) in your soil? Roughly where are you? How much of the year is it
wet?


Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.

If you use metal fittings they must be treated to resist rust - as in
galvanising. I would suggest bolts for strength instead of screws. Unless
you brace the middle somehow 8' long planks will tend to bow outwards over
time. With a 2" x 12" this may not be enough to bother you.

You can avoid fittings and fastenings by using stakes about 2in square to
brace the sides. I would use a durable and tough hardwood. If what you
call redwood is the same species I have seen it is quite soft and brittle
and (although moisture and insect resistent) it will make poor stakes as it
will tend to splinter when driven. You can also use steel star pickets that
may be black or galvanised, the latter sort are more expensive but will last
well. You may want to cap these as the tops can be sharp after being driven
with a steel hammer.

David

"Silvercaster" wrote in message
om...
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

Have you already gotten the redwood? There is a composite material at Lowes
that has a lifespan of 75-100 years and comes in landscape timber size
(eight foot long) 4 x 4 and I think a bit larger. Landscape timber size
although roughly $6.37 is cheap considering it will last that long, is safe
and you can drill it or cut it the way you would wood.

Cutting one in half would give you the four foot ends and you drill holes
and put short rebar in to secure them. It sounds like you're double
digging. A great idea. Be sure to work in some leaves with the soil on the
bottom for some slow decaying humus that will hold moisture a bit.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

If you've already gotten the redwood, I wouldn't treat it.

Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?

galvanized would work, but you can also secure them with drilling holes and
putting galvanized gutter spikes which are shorter and don't rust at all
and are very affordable. My friend and her husband used those for years as
spikes to hold their three high timber sides on all their raised beds.

Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

Like I said, galvanized gutter spikes are the best and cheaper and are about
the right length. I just burnt some old timbers and was able to salvage the
spikes from their timbers because they didn't melt either.!

madgardener zone 7, Sunset zone 36 Eastern Tennessee who has always done
raised and double dug beds because they get a jump on the season and are
easier to work and grow in just be sure to keep a record of who you plant
where and remember to rotate those crops. beans in one end one year with
corn, etc.........and I hope you know with raised beds you can intensely
plant. Tomato's can go as close as 8 inches apart, unless you're using a
concrete wire cage............G (any more questions and I'll gladly
answer them if you holler at me)

All suggestions will be appreciated.

Silvercaster wrote:
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.


I'm probably gonna put raised beds in my garden this year. I was thinking
of using disposable lumber rather than expensive last-forever lumber: I'll
get the lowest grade 2x8 or 2x10 SPF (spruce, pine or fir) that I can find
that is sort-of straight and not split. I don't care about knots. Then
set up the beds and nail them together with 16d nails. The nails will be
going into end grain, which doesn't hold very well, but it shouldn't split
because I'll be driving them with a pneumatic framing nailer. To keep the
boards from bowing out, I'll drive pieces of rebar into the ground next to
them. There are few if any termites here, and the wood should last for
several years before it needs replacing.

That's the idea anyway.

Best regards,
Bob

On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 22:04:01 -0600, zxcvbob
wrote:

Silvercaster wrote:
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.


I'm probably gonna put raised beds in my garden this year. I was thinking
of using disposable lumber rather than expensive last-forever lumber: I'll
get the lowest grade 2x8 or 2x10 SPF (spruce, pine or fir) that I can find
that is sort-of straight and not split. I don't care about knots. Then
set up the beds and nail them together with 16d nails. The nails will be
going into end grain, which doesn't hold very well, but it shouldn't split
because I'll be driving them with a pneumatic framing nailer. To keep the
boards from bowing out, I'll drive pieces of rebar into the ground next to
them. There are few if any termites here, and the wood should last for
several years before it needs replacing.

That's the idea anyway.

Best regards,
Bob

Scavenged lumber is always out there to be had for those who keep
their eyes open and have a way to haul it. Course I would haul it in,
through, on a car. I sure miss my pickup, it was old, sucked gas, but
there are too many things I want to haul and cannot anymore. Pickups
used to be cheap, then they got popular and now even the old junkers
are over a grand used most of the time. *sigh*

Janice
One who used to judge the worth of a vehicle by how much manure it
would haul.

On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 22:04:01 -0600, zxcvbob
wrote:

Silvercaster wrote:
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.


I'm probably gonna put raised beds in my garden this year. I was thinking
of using disposable lumber rather than expensive last-forever lumber: I'll
get the lowest grade 2x8 or 2x10 SPF (spruce, pine or fir) that I can find
that is sort-of straight and not split. I don't care about knots. Then
set up the beds and nail them together with 16d nails. The nails will be
going into end grain, which doesn't hold very well, but it shouldn't split
because I'll be driving them with a pneumatic framing nailer. To keep the
boards from bowing out, I'll drive pieces of rebar into the ground next to
them. There are few if any termites here, and the wood should last for
several years before it needs replacing.

That's the idea anyway.

Best regards,
Bob

Scavenged lumber is always out there to be had for those who keep
their eyes open and have a way to haul it. Course I would haul it in,
through, on a car. I sure miss my pickup, it was old, sucked gas, but
there are too many things I want to haul and cannot anymore. Pickups
used to be cheap, then they got popular and now even the old junkers
are over a grand used most of the time. *sigh*

Janice
One who used to judge the worth of a vehicle by how much manure it
would haul.

In article ,
says...
Silvercaster wrote:
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.


I'm probably gonna put raised beds in my garden this year. I was thinking
of using disposable lumber rather than expensive last-forever lumber: I'll
get the lowest grade 2x8 or 2x10 SPF (spruce, pine or fir) that I can find
that is sort-of straight and not split. I don't care about knots. Then
set up the beds and nail them together with 16d nails. The nails will be
going into end grain, which doesn't hold very well, but it shouldn't split
because I'll be driving them with a pneumatic framing nailer. To keep the
boards from bowing out, I'll drive pieces of rebar into the ground next to
them. There are few if any termites here, and the wood should last for
several years before it needs replacing.

That's the idea anyway.

Best regards,
Bob


I built a small planter out of scavenged untreated 1x4 pine boards
nailed to vertical 2x2s in each inside corner (that provided a great
deal of stability - prevented warping at the corners). It sat directly
on the ground (asphalt), and had no lining of any kind between the soil
inside and the boards. It will have to be replaced this year, but that
is after five years of use. If you're using 2x8s it should last quite a
bit longer than five years, especially if you have good drainage.

Sometimes cheaper is good enough.

BP

David,
Living in San Diego with little rainfall and no termites in the soil,
do you think untreated 2"x12" redwood will give me at least 5 years?

I was going to use redwood 2"x2" spikes at the corners and at the
middle of the 8' boards, but maybe I should go with a harder wood,
like ceder. you think?
Do you think this will hold together sufficently without "L" brackets?

Thanks everyone,

btw, I will look into the galvanized gutter spikes.

Robert

"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message ...
"Silvercaster" wrote in message
om...
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Be aware that whatever you treat your timber with will end up in/on your
veges. Personally I would not use any treatment but choose a timber that
was durable in contact with the soil in local conditions.

Google will take you to many informative sites that discuss the durability
of redwood in contact with the soil. From a quick survey it seems that the
right grade may be suitable without treatment. Do you have whiteants
(termites) in your soil? Roughly where are you? How much of the year is it
wet?


Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.

If you use metal fittings they must be treated to resist rust - as in
galvanising. I would suggest bolts for strength instead of screws. Unless
you brace the middle somehow 8' long planks will tend to bow outwards over
time. With a 2" x 12" this may not be enough to bother you.

You can avoid fittings and fastenings by using stakes about 2in square to
brace the sides. I would use a durable and tough hardwood. If what you
call redwood is the same species I have seen it is quite soft and brittle
and (although moisture and insect resistent) it will make poor stakes as it
will tend to splinter when driven. You can also use steel star pickets that
may be black or galvanised, the latter sort are more expensive but will last
well. You may want to cap these as the tops can be sharp after being driven
with a steel hammer.

David

David,
Living in San Diego with little rainfall and no termites in the soil,
do you think untreated 2"x12" redwood will give me at least 5 years?

I was going to use redwood 2"x2" spikes at the corners and at the
middle of the 8' boards, but maybe I should go with a harder wood,
like ceder. you think?
Do you think this will hold together sufficently without "L" brackets?

Thanks everyone,

btw, I will look into the galvanized gutter spikes.

Robert

"David Hare-Scott" wrote in message ...
"Silvercaster" wrote in message
om...
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Be aware that whatever you treat your timber with will end up in/on your
veges. Personally I would not use any treatment but choose a timber that
was durable in contact with the soil in local conditions.

Google will take you to many informative sites that discuss the durability
of redwood in contact with the soil. From a quick survey it seems that the
right grade may be suitable without treatment. Do you have whiteants
(termites) in your soil? Roughly where are you? How much of the year is it
wet?


Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.

If you use metal fittings they must be treated to resist rust - as in
galvanising. I would suggest bolts for strength instead of screws. Unless
you brace the middle somehow 8' long planks will tend to bow outwards over
time. With a 2" x 12" this may not be enough to bother you.

You can avoid fittings and fastenings by using stakes about 2in square to
brace the sides. I would use a durable and tough hardwood. If what you
call redwood is the same species I have seen it is quite soft and brittle
and (although moisture and insect resistent) it will make poor stakes as it
will tend to splinter when driven. You can also use steel star pickets that
may be black or galvanised, the latter sort are more expensive but will last
well. You may want to cap these as the tops can be sharp after being driven
with a steel hammer.

David

What about painting the outside of a raised bed?

I was looking at establishing three 12"x18"x6-or-8"-high raised
mini-beds for placement in front of stone columns. All the house trim
is white and bare wood might look out of place--and it is right along
the walk.

Are there types of paint to avoid?
DiGiTAL ViNYL (no email)
Zone 6b/7, Westchester Co, NY, 1 mile off L.I.Sound
1st Year Gardener

"Silvercaster" wrote in message
m...
David,
Living in San Diego with little rainfall and no termites in the soil,
do you think untreated 2"x12" redwood will give me at least 5 years?

I was going to use redwood 2"x2" spikes at the corners and at the
middle of the 8' boards, but maybe I should go with a harder wood,
like ceder. you think?
Do you think this will hold together sufficently without "L" brackets?

Thanks everyone,

btw, I will look into the galvanized gutter spikes.

Robert


Sorry if I suggested I had experience with redwood in the garden - I don't.
It is fairly expensive and very rarely used for garden work here because we
have cheaper eucalyptus hardwoods, some of which are durable in contact with
the soil.

Part of the problem we have is that "redwood" and "cedar" may or may not be
the same species where you are and where I am. The cedar that I am used to
is also soft and brittle and far too expensive to use for such purposes.

My point about using suitable species untreated holds true but I cannot
advise you very much about the suitability of the materials that you have
available as it is foreign to me. Have you asked your local timber merchant
about this?

David

(Silvercaster) wrote in message . com...
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.

if you build the bed with cinder blocks they will last forever.

Thank you one and all...

Your suggestions really helped me flush out what I'm going to do.

Robert

Bonnie Punch wrote in message o.ca...
In article ,
says...
Silvercaster wrote:
Hello,
This is my first time building a raised vegetable garden and have
quite a few questions.
The garden is going to be a foot deep underground and a foot above
ground.
The dimentions are going to be 8'x4'.
I'm going to use 2"x12" redwood lumber. It's not treated.

First, and I've heard yes and no to this question, should I treat the
redwood lumber that I am going to build the planter out of? If so,
with what?

Second, what kind of "L" brackets and screws will last the longest?
Should I use galvinized screws and brackets? if not what?

All suggestions will be appreciated.


I'm probably gonna put raised beds in my garden this year. I was thinking
of using disposable lumber rather than expensive last-forever lumber: I'll
get the lowest grade 2x8 or 2x10 SPF (spruce, pine or fir) that I can find
that is sort-of straight and not split. I don't care about knots. Then
set up the beds and nail them together with 16d nails. The nails will be
going into end grain, which doesn't hold very well, but it shouldn't split
because I'll be driving them with a pneumatic framing nailer. To keep the
boards from bowing out, I'll drive pieces of rebar into the ground next to
them. There are few if any termites here, and the wood should last for
several years before it needs replacing.

That's the idea anyway.

Best regards,
Bob


I built a small planter out of scavenged untreated 1x4 pine boards
nailed to vertical 2x2s in each inside corner (that provided a great
deal of stability - prevented warping at the corners). It sat directly
on the ground (asphalt), and had no lining of any kind between the soil
inside and the boards. It will have to be replaced this year, but that
is after five years of use. If you're using 2x8s it should last quite a
bit longer than five years, especially if you have good drainage.

Sometimes cheaper is good enough.

BP

(simy1) wrote:

if you build the bed with cinder blocks they will last forever.

Not really. Cement blocks last longer. Cinder blocks are made with
coal ash (cinders). They are lighter but susceptable to frost damage.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

(simy1) wrote:

if you build the bed with cinder blocks they will last forever.

Not really. Cement blocks last longer. Cinder blocks are made with
coal ash (cinders). They are lighter but susceptable to frost damage.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman