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Old 19-03-2004, 07:32 PM
Suja
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

Made the mistake of checking the ForestFarm site, and decided to go
through their list of plants. Now I have a long list of shrubs and trees
I want, and am trying to figure out which ones I should order or attempt
to find locally. The FF online catalog is very stingy with details, and
I've tried to fill in the gaps as much as possible with info from the
web, but am still unclear about which plants will do well.

I have a lot of land, and the plants will go in conditions of either
light shade or full sun. If there is a particular shrub that is a must
have and needs more shade, I am sure I can find a spot for it. The sunny
spots drain really well (on a slope), the shadier spots less well. The
soil is amended clay and slightly acidic. I'm in Zone 7a, Northern VA
(about 30 minutes West of DC), where the winter lows get close to 0 F,
and the summers are insanely hot and humid. Oh, and we have tons of
deer, so deer resistant shrubs would be preferable, although I certainly
don't have any problems taking the trouble to protect the special plants.

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto'
Callistemon 'Woodlander Hardy Red'
Camellia 'Winter's Interlude'
Chaenomeles 'Cameo'
Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis'
Fuschia 'Aurea'
Kerria Japonica Picta
Magnolia Sieboldii
Myrtus communis 'Variegata'
Phygelius rectus 'Sunshine'
Viburnum ichangense (recommended pollinator?)
Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta'

Does anyone have experience with these shrubs? If you think any of
these plants would be especially good (or not) for the conditions I've
described above, I would love to hear about it. If you have
recommendations for other shrubs I should consider (shorter shrubs are
easier to find homes for), I'm all ears.

Suja

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Old 20-03-2004, 12:32 AM
David J Bockman
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

"Suja" wrote in message
news:AEH6c.15799$Cf3.2901@lakeread01...
Made the mistake of checking the ForestFarm site, and decided to go
through their list of plants. Now I have a long list of shrubs and trees
I want, and am trying to figure out which ones I should order or attempt
to find locally. The FF online catalog is very stingy with details, and
I've tried to fill in the gaps as much as possible with info from the
web, but am still unclear about which plants will do well.

I have a lot of land, and the plants will go in conditions of either
light shade or full sun. If there is a particular shrub that is a must
have and needs more shade, I am sure I can find a spot for it. The sunny
spots drain really well (on a slope), the shadier spots less well. The
soil is amended clay and slightly acidic. I'm in Zone 7a, Northern VA
(about 30 minutes West of DC), where the winter lows get close to 0 F,
and the summers are insanely hot and humid. Oh, and we have tons of
deer, so deer resistant shrubs would be preferable, although I certainly
don't have any problems taking the trouble to protect the special plants.

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto'


Fine tree, but almost all of the palmatums do better in dappled sunshine.
Certain varieties like 'Bloodgood' and 'Crimson Queen' tolerate full sun,
but still will bronze out a bit.

Camellia 'Winter's Interlude'


All Camellia should have early morning sun protection and if possible, high
shade at mid day-- under tall pines for example is a great spot.

Chaenomeles 'Cameo'


Fine

Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis'


I'm not familiar with that cultivar, but it's a fine tree for our area.

Fuschia 'Aurea'
Kerria Japonica Picta


Picta must have good to deep shade. The shadier the better.

Magnolia Sieboldii


Lovely.

Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta'


I don't know a 'Compacta', there is a 'Compactum' that is supposed to be a
fine dwarf variety. Not being anal, just make sure you are getting the shrub
you want.

I'm concerned with all this land that you will end of witha rather random
design to the garden. Have you considered hiring a designer?

Dave, also in Fairfax.



  #3   Report Post  
Old 20-03-2004, 01:36 AM
Suja
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

David J Bockman wrote:

Fine tree, but almost all of the palmatums do better in dappled sunshine.
Certain varieties like 'Bloodgood' and 'Crimson Queen' tolerate full sun,
but still will bronze out a bit.


I do have an East facing location near the house that might be better
for this. I was also considering a Sango Kaku to complete a triad of
trees, but the area is most definitely full sun, and now I think I
should go back to my default, a standard weeping cherry.

All Camellia should have early morning sun protection and if possible, high
shade at mid day-- under tall pines for example is a great spot.


Why early morning protection? This one will probably go against the
house, on the East side. I believe that it will have shade early on
because of all the other trees that are near it.

Picta must have good to deep shade. The shadier the better.


I realize that it likes some shade, but didn't think that it needed
heavy shade. I have a fairly good (and long) treeline, and can use this
to underplant, but I do want it where I can see it, and that might
defeat the purpose

Lovely.


What I've read suggests that it might be marginally hardy in this area.
Do you know if that is a problem?

I don't know a 'Compacta', there is a 'Compactum' that is supposed to be a
fine dwarf variety. Not being anal, just make sure you are getting the shrub
you want.


That's what FF called it.
http://www.forestfarm.com/search/clo...lantID=vica041

I'm concerned with all this land that you will end of witha rather random
design to the garden. Have you considered hiring a designer?


I don't think that the garden will lack cohesion, because I do have a
master plan, although I am doing it a little bit at a time. The reason
I haven't asked for professional help is primarily because I'm a wannabe
gardner (I only have 5 or 6 years of experience total), and I learn best
by doing. The other problem of course is that what I want is generally
not what you see in these parts, a bunch of low maintenance evergreens
bordered by liriope. Not to say that a designer can't help, just that I
have not seen a garden in anyone's home that I've really coveted in
these parts. Too cookie cutter for me. Besides, I'm a cottage gardner
at heart, and would most likely give the designing sorts a few heart
attacks. I like barely organized chaos. Eventually, I will probably
need guidance from some sort of a designer, because about 80% of my
property is in shade, and I'd be waay out of my league when it comes to
woodland gardening.

Any ideas on where I can get all this stuff? I am hoping to find
sources locally (I'll check Merrifield and Betty's) so that I don't have
to pay FF's shipping charges.

Suja

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Old 20-03-2004, 01:32 PM
David J Bockman
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?


"Suja" wrote in message
news:QJM6c.16235$Cf3.12529@lakeread01...
David J Bockman wrote:

Fine tree, but almost all of the palmatums do better in dappled

sunshine.
Certain varieties like 'Bloodgood' and 'Crimson Queen' tolerate full

sun,
but still will bronze out a bit.


I do have an East facing location near the house that might be better
for this. I was also considering a Sango Kaku to complete a triad of
trees, but the area is most definitely full sun, and now I think I
should go back to my default, a standard weeping cherry.


Being the nosy enthusiast type, I'll suggest trying to find Prunus
subhirtella 'Pendula' not on a standard, but growing on its own rootstock.
MUCH more picturesque as the tree ages.

All Camellia should have early morning sun protection and if possible,

high
shade at mid day-- under tall pines for example is a great spot.


Why early morning protection? This one will probably go against the
house, on the East side. I believe that it will have shade early on
because of all the other trees that are near it.


All Camelias, even the more winter-hardy Ackerman hybrids such as 'Winter's
Interlude', are susceptible to early morning 'leaf blast' when temperatures
dip below freezing and subsequently the leaves are exposed to early morning
direct sun. The thick leaves retain a lot of moisture which needs time to
thaw under warming air temperatures, not direct sunlight, or else the cell
walls rupture and the leaf blackens and dies.

Picta must have good to deep shade. The shadier the better.


I realize that it likes some shade, but didn't think that it needed
heavy shade. I have a fairly good (and long) treeline, and can use this
to underplant, but I do want it where I can see it, and that might
defeat the purpose.


Don't need heavy shade per se, but any substantial length of direct sun
(say, more than 2-3 hours, less if at midday) will scorch.

Lovely.


What I've read suggests that it might be marginally hardy in this area.
Do you know if that is a problem?


(With regard to Magnolia seiboldii) I haven't seen it grown in our area all
that often, doesn't mean it won't do well here. Dirr lists it as Zones 6-8,
so it should be fine. The best location would be 'semi-shady', strong
dappled sunshine.

I don't know a 'Compacta', there is a 'Compactum' that is supposed to be

a
fine dwarf variety. Not being anal, just make sure you are getting the

shrub
you want.


That's what FF called it.
http://www.forestfarm.com/search/clo...lantID=vica041


Hmm..Perhaps it's a Forest Farm introduction or they just misspelled
slightly. Looks lovely.

Any ideas on where I can get all this stuff? I am hoping to find
sources locally (I'll check Merrifield and Betty's) so that I don't have
to pay FF's shipping charges.


Yes, two good places to start. You can get their fax numbers and just fax
the whole list over, they can call you back or return fax availability and
prices. Best not to do it on a weekend, however. Unless you spec out the
exact sizes and 'styles' of each tree/shrub you are looking for, you'll get
whatever they have (for example, if you went with my suggestion on the
Prunus, and didn't spec 'own rootstock', you'd most likely get a standard.)

Dave


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Old 20-03-2004, 01:42 PM
David J Bockman
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?


"Suja" wrote in message
news:QJM6c.16235$Cf3.12529@lakeread01...
David J Bockman wrote:

Fine tree, but almost all of the palmatums do better in dappled

sunshine.
Certain varieties like 'Bloodgood' and 'Crimson Queen' tolerate full

sun,
but still will bronze out a bit.


I do have an East facing location near the house that might be better
for this. I was also considering a Sango Kaku to complete a triad of
trees, but the area is most definitely full sun, and now I think I
should go back to my default, a standard weeping cherry.


Being the nosy enthusiast type, I'll suggest trying to find Prunus
subhirtella 'Pendula' not on a standard, but growing on its own rootstock.
MUCH more picturesque as the tree ages.

All Camellia should have early morning sun protection and if possible,

high
shade at mid day-- under tall pines for example is a great spot.


Why early morning protection? This one will probably go against the
house, on the East side. I believe that it will have shade early on
because of all the other trees that are near it.


All Camelias, even the more winter-hardy Ackerman hybrids such as 'Winter's
Interlude', are susceptible to early morning 'leaf blast' when temperatures
dip below freezing and subsequently the leaves are exposed to early morning
direct sun. The thick leaves retain a lot of moisture which needs time to
thaw under warming air temperatures, not direct sunlight, or else the cell
walls rupture and the leaf blackens and dies.

Picta must have good to deep shade. The shadier the better.


I realize that it likes some shade, but didn't think that it needed
heavy shade. I have a fairly good (and long) treeline, and can use this
to underplant, but I do want it where I can see it, and that might
defeat the purpose.


Don't need heavy shade per se, but any substantial length of direct sun
(say, more than 2-3 hours, less if at midday) will scorch.

Lovely.


What I've read suggests that it might be marginally hardy in this area.
Do you know if that is a problem?


(With regard to Magnolia seiboldii) I haven't seen it grown in our area all
that often, doesn't mean it won't do well here. Dirr lists it as Zones 6-8,
so it should be fine. The best location would be 'semi-shady', strong
dappled sunshine.

I don't know a 'Compacta', there is a 'Compactum' that is supposed to be

a
fine dwarf variety. Not being anal, just make sure you are getting the

shrub
you want.


That's what FF called it.
http://www.forestfarm.com/search/clo...lantID=vica041


Hmm..Perhaps it's a Forest Farm introduction or they just misspelled
slightly. Looks lovely.

Any ideas on where I can get all this stuff? I am hoping to find
sources locally (I'll check Merrifield and Betty's) so that I don't have
to pay FF's shipping charges.


Yes, two good places to start. You can get their fax numbers and just fax
the whole list over, they can call you back or return fax availability and
prices. Best not to do it on a weekend, however. Unless you spec out the
exact sizes and 'styles' of each tree/shrub you are looking for, you'll get
whatever they have (for example, if you went with my suggestion on the
Prunus, and didn't spec 'own rootstock', you'd most likely get a standard.)

Dave




  #6   Report Post  
Old 20-03-2004, 05:10 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

Suja,

Based on my experience:

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto': nice dwarf A.palmatum. There are many
similiar A.palmatums, all nice. Mine are eaten more by rabbits than deer. I
have to put a cage around small ones for about three years to let them get
big enough to withstand winter rabbit munching

Camellia 'Winter's Interlude': one of the many Ackerman hybrids. I have had
no deer damage to mine in ten years.

Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis': I had one that I removed. The spiral growth
habit is a matter of perception, to my eye there was very little spiraling.
No deer or rabbit damage.

Magnolia Sieboldii: my favorite magnolia. Deer will remove some winter buds.

Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta': wonderful small shrub. I can't understand why
this plant is not more popular. No deer damage in ten years.

Hope this helps,
--beeky


Suja wrote:

Made the mistake of checking the ForestFarm site, and decided to go
through their list of plants. Now I have a long list of shrubs and trees
I want, and am trying to figure out which ones I should order or attempt
to find locally. The FF online catalog is very stingy with details, and
I've tried to fill in the gaps as much as possible with info from the
web, but am still unclear about which plants will do well.

I have a lot of land, and the plants will go in conditions of either
light shade or full sun. If there is a particular shrub that is a must
have and needs more shade, I am sure I can find a spot for it. The sunny
spots drain really well (on a slope), the shadier spots less well. The
soil is amended clay and slightly acidic. I'm in Zone 7a, Northern VA
(about 30 minutes West of DC), where the winter lows get close to 0 F,
and the summers are insanely hot and humid. Oh, and we have tons of
deer, so deer resistant shrubs would be preferable, although I certainly
don't have any problems taking the trouble to protect the special plants.

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto'
Callistemon 'Woodlander Hardy Red'
Camellia 'Winter's Interlude'
Chaenomeles 'Cameo'
Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis'
Fuschia 'Aurea'
Kerria Japonica Picta
Magnolia Sieboldii
Myrtus communis 'Variegata'
Phygelius rectus 'Sunshine'
Viburnum ichangense (recommended pollinator?)
Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta'

Does anyone have experience with these shrubs? If you think any of
these plants would be especially good (or not) for the conditions I've
described above, I would love to hear about it. If you have
recommendations for other shrubs I should consider (shorter shrubs are
easier to find homes for), I'm all ears.

Suja


  #7   Report Post  
Old 20-03-2004, 05:18 PM
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

Suja,

Based on my experience:

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto': nice dwarf A.palmatum. There are many
similiar A.palmatums, all nice. Mine are eaten more by rabbits than deer. I
have to put a cage around small ones for about three years to let them get
big enough to withstand winter rabbit munching

Camellia 'Winter's Interlude': one of the many Ackerman hybrids. I have had
no deer damage to mine in ten years.

Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis': I had one that I removed. The spiral growth
habit is a matter of perception, to my eye there was very little spiraling.
No deer or rabbit damage.

Magnolia Sieboldii: my favorite magnolia. Deer will remove some winter buds.

Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta': wonderful small shrub. I can't understand why
this plant is not more popular. No deer damage in ten years.

Hope this helps,
--beeky


Suja wrote:

Made the mistake of checking the ForestFarm site, and decided to go
through their list of plants. Now I have a long list of shrubs and trees
I want, and am trying to figure out which ones I should order or attempt
to find locally. The FF online catalog is very stingy with details, and
I've tried to fill in the gaps as much as possible with info from the
web, but am still unclear about which plants will do well.

I have a lot of land, and the plants will go in conditions of either
light shade or full sun. If there is a particular shrub that is a must
have and needs more shade, I am sure I can find a spot for it. The sunny
spots drain really well (on a slope), the shadier spots less well. The
soil is amended clay and slightly acidic. I'm in Zone 7a, Northern VA
(about 30 minutes West of DC), where the winter lows get close to 0 F,
and the summers are insanely hot and humid. Oh, and we have tons of
deer, so deer resistant shrubs would be preferable, although I certainly
don't have any problems taking the trouble to protect the special plants.

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto'
Callistemon 'Woodlander Hardy Red'
Camellia 'Winter's Interlude'
Chaenomeles 'Cameo'
Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis'
Fuschia 'Aurea'
Kerria Japonica Picta
Magnolia Sieboldii
Myrtus communis 'Variegata'
Phygelius rectus 'Sunshine'
Viburnum ichangense (recommended pollinator?)
Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta'

Does anyone have experience with these shrubs? If you think any of
these plants would be especially good (or not) for the conditions I've
described above, I would love to hear about it. If you have
recommendations for other shrubs I should consider (shorter shrubs are
easier to find homes for), I'm all ears.

Suja


  #8   Report Post  
Old 20-03-2004, 05:32 PM
Suja
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

David J Bockman wrote:
Being the nosy enthusiast type, I'll suggest trying to find Prunus
subhirtella 'Pendula' not on a standard, but growing on its own rootstock.
MUCH more picturesque as the tree ages.


What's the difference? For example, the one at FF says 'on serrula
trunk' (http://www.forestfarm.com/search/clo...lantID=prsu045)
and makes it sound like that's a good thing. The tree person at
Merrifield who recommended it to me said that I can expect it to get
rather tall - does the rootstock make a difference in size?

All Camelias, even the more winter-hardy Ackerman hybrids such as 'Winter's
Interlude', are susceptible to early morning 'leaf blast' when temperatures
dip below freezing and subsequently the leaves are exposed to early morning
direct sun. The thick leaves retain a lot of moisture which needs time to
thaw under warming air temperatures, not direct sunlight, or else the cell
walls rupture and the leaf blackens and dies.


Thanks. I didn't know that. I'll have to watch the spot more closely
to see how soon it gets sun and how long it stays there.

Don't need heavy shade per se, but any substantial length of direct sun
(say, more than 2-3 hours, less if at midday) will scorch.


That, I didn't know. I will see if I can find a good dappled shade spot
for it.

Yes, two good places to start. You can get their fax numbers and just fax
the whole list over, they can call you back or return fax availability and
prices. Best not to do it on a weekend, however. Unless you spec out the
exact sizes and 'styles' of each tree/shrub you are looking for, you'll get
whatever they have (for example, if you went with my suggestion on the
Prunus, and didn't spec 'own rootstock', you'd most likely get a standard.)


That's a really good idea. I have generally called in my requests or
gone in person during a weekday. I don't particularly care for Betty's
staff - the ones manning the store are fine, but the ones outside don't
know what they're talking about. I've never been able to get decent
recommendations out of them. For that matter, I haven't been able to
get anyone to even spend a little bit of time with me, talking about
their stock.

IIRC, you work for a nursery in this area, right? If you don't mind,
could you let me know where? Email is fine, if you don't want to put
the information out on usenet.

Suja

  #9   Report Post  
Old 20-03-2004, 05:43 PM
Suja
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

David J Bockman wrote:
Being the nosy enthusiast type, I'll suggest trying to find Prunus
subhirtella 'Pendula' not on a standard, but growing on its own rootstock.
MUCH more picturesque as the tree ages.


What's the difference? For example, the one at FF says 'on serrula
trunk' (http://www.forestfarm.com/search/clo...lantID=prsu045)
and makes it sound like that's a good thing. The tree person at
Merrifield who recommended it to me said that I can expect it to get
rather tall - does the rootstock make a difference in size?

All Camelias, even the more winter-hardy Ackerman hybrids such as 'Winter's
Interlude', are susceptible to early morning 'leaf blast' when temperatures
dip below freezing and subsequently the leaves are exposed to early morning
direct sun. The thick leaves retain a lot of moisture which needs time to
thaw under warming air temperatures, not direct sunlight, or else the cell
walls rupture and the leaf blackens and dies.


Thanks. I didn't know that. I'll have to watch the spot more closely
to see how soon it gets sun and how long it stays there.

Don't need heavy shade per se, but any substantial length of direct sun
(say, more than 2-3 hours, less if at midday) will scorch.


That, I didn't know. I will see if I can find a good dappled shade spot
for it.

Yes, two good places to start. You can get their fax numbers and just fax
the whole list over, they can call you back or return fax availability and
prices. Best not to do it on a weekend, however. Unless you spec out the
exact sizes and 'styles' of each tree/shrub you are looking for, you'll get
whatever they have (for example, if you went with my suggestion on the
Prunus, and didn't spec 'own rootstock', you'd most likely get a standard.)


That's a really good idea. I have generally called in my requests or
gone in person during a weekday. I don't particularly care for Betty's
staff - the ones manning the store are fine, but the ones outside don't
know what they're talking about. I've never been able to get decent
recommendations out of them. For that matter, I haven't been able to
get anyone to even spend a little bit of time with me, talking about
their stock.

IIRC, you work for a nursery in this area, right? If you don't mind,
could you let me know where? Email is fine, if you don't want to put
the information out on usenet.

Suja

  #10   Report Post  
Old 20-03-2004, 05:52 PM
Suja
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

wrote:

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto': nice dwarf A.palmatum. There are many
similiar A.palmatums, all nice. Mine are eaten more by rabbits than deer. I
have to put a cage around small ones for about three years to let them get
big enough to withstand winter rabbit munching


Thankfully, I haven't had a rabbit problem. Tlhey tend to stay near the
edge of the woods, probably because of the dogs.

Camellia 'Winter's Interlude': one of the many Ackerman hybrids. I have had
no deer damage to mine in ten years.


Does it look as lovely in RL as it does in the pictures? I haven't seen
one in bloom yet.

Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis': I had one that I removed. The spiral growth
habit is a matter of perception, to my eye there was very little spiraling.
No deer or rabbit damage.


In that case, I'll see if I can find a larger specimen at the nursery,
and see if I see any spiraling. The only one I've seen was very young,
and I could see the spiraling (or potential for it) there.

Magnolia Sieboldii: my favorite magnolia. Deer will remove some winter buds.


Good to know. I don't mind keeping up with a shrub or two if the deer
bother them. As long as it doesn't get eaten to the ground, I am okay
with it.

Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta': wonderful small shrub. I can't understand why
this plant is not more popular. No deer damage in ten years.


Awesome! What to do you use as a pollinator? I am entirely convinced
that I need a Viburnum ichangense (spectacular in full fruit), and that
requires a V. dilatatum as a pollinator. I may end up needing to find
homes for 4 Viburnums.

Suja



  #11   Report Post  
Old 20-03-2004, 06:05 PM
Suja
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

wrote:

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto': nice dwarf A.palmatum. There are many
similiar A.palmatums, all nice. Mine are eaten more by rabbits than deer. I
have to put a cage around small ones for about three years to let them get
big enough to withstand winter rabbit munching


Thankfully, I haven't had a rabbit problem. Tlhey tend to stay near the
edge of the woods, probably because of the dogs.

Camellia 'Winter's Interlude': one of the many Ackerman hybrids. I have had
no deer damage to mine in ten years.


Does it look as lovely in RL as it does in the pictures? I haven't seen
one in bloom yet.

Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis': I had one that I removed. The spiral growth
habit is a matter of perception, to my eye there was very little spiraling.
No deer or rabbit damage.


In that case, I'll see if I can find a larger specimen at the nursery,
and see if I see any spiraling. The only one I've seen was very young,
and I could see the spiraling (or potential for it) there.

Magnolia Sieboldii: my favorite magnolia. Deer will remove some winter buds.


Good to know. I don't mind keeping up with a shrub or two if the deer
bother them. As long as it doesn't get eaten to the ground, I am okay
with it.

Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta': wonderful small shrub. I can't understand why
this plant is not more popular. No deer damage in ten years.


Awesome! What to do you use as a pollinator? I am entirely convinced
that I need a Viburnum ichangense (spectacular in full fruit), and that
requires a V. dilatatum as a pollinator. I may end up needing to find
homes for 4 Viburnums.

Suja

  #12   Report Post  
Old 21-03-2004, 09:13 PM
Mike Prager
 
Posts: n/a
Default Which shrubs to choose?

Suja wrote:

Made the mistake of checking the ForestFarm site, and decided to go
through their list of plants. Now I have a long list of shrubs and trees
I want, and am trying to figure out which ones I should order or attempt
to find locally. The FF online catalog is very stingy with details, and
I've tried to fill in the gaps as much as possible with info from the
web, but am still unclear about which plants will do well.

I have a lot of land, and the plants will go in conditions of either
light shade or full sun. If there is a particular shrub that is a must
have and needs more shade, I am sure I can find a spot for it. The sunny
spots drain really well (on a slope), the shadier spots less well. The
soil is amended clay and slightly acidic. I'm in Zone 7a, Northern VA
(about 30 minutes West of DC), where the winter lows get close to 0 F,
and the summers are insanely hot and humid. Oh, and we have tons of
deer, so deer resistant shrubs would be preferable, although I certainly
don't have any problems taking the trouble to protect the special plants.

Acer palmatum 'Villa Taranto'
Callistemon 'Woodlander Hardy Red'
Camellia 'Winter's Interlude'
Chaenomeles 'Cameo'
Cryptomeria Japonica 'Spiralis'
Fuschia 'Aurea'
Kerria Japonica Picta
Magnolia Sieboldii
Myrtus communis 'Variegata'
Phygelius rectus 'Sunshine'
Viburnum ichangense (recommended pollinator?)
Viburnum carlesii 'Compacta'

Does anyone have experience with these shrubs? If you think any of
these plants would be especially good (or not) for the conditions I've
described above, I would love to hear about it. If you have
recommendations for other shrubs I should consider (shorter shrubs are
easier to find homes for), I'm all ears.


In the "other shrubs" category, let me name some favorites:

Viburnum plicatum tomentosum -- doublefile viburnum --
gorgeous flowering in spring -- a really pretty shrub.

V. bracteatum 'Emerald lustrer' -- shiny green leaves, some
flowering, colorful berries.

V. bodnantense -- clusters of pink, fragrant flowers in early
spring, before the leaves appear.

(Most of the viburnums are tough as nails.)

Ternstroemia gymnanthera (Japanese cleyera) -- in the tea
family, like Camellia, and blends well with them.

Camellia oleifera (the tea-oil camellia) and C. sinensis (the
tea plant) are said to be hardy to zone 6. Less showy than
some other Camellias, but still attractive.

Camellia sasanqua -- you have to be careful, but some are
hardy in your zone. I prefer their open habit to that of C.
japonica.

The tricky thing is that Camellias need excellent drainage,
yet most like some shade, so you will need to be creative in
how and where you plant them.

Most crape myrtles are said to be hardy to your zone. They are
tough and take heat and humidity well. Look for the
mildew-resistant varieties. Some are small trees, others are
shrubby.

Lonicera fragrantissima (winter honeysuckle) will fill a lot
of space and smells wonderful in late winter and early spring.
Not invasive like some other honeysuckles.

Have fun!


Mike Prager
Beaufort, NC (on the coast in zone 8a)
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