On Sun, 1 Aug 2004 21:44:10 -0400, "Wil" wrote:


"Bill Smith" wrote in message
. com...
You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to
do for the problem.

Annette

Another thing, don't use Miracle Grow on daylilies. It is too high in
Nitrogen [the first number on the formula]. Use a fertilizer with a low
first number such as 6-10-10, or 5-12-10. If you use a high nitrogen
fertilizer on daylilies you will get all green foliage and few bloom.

Wil

Standard all-purpose Miracle Grow is 15-30-15 plus micronutrients. If you have
this formulation you can make it 'low-nitrogen' by using less of the crystals in
a given volume of water. The recommended usage rate is 1 tablespoon per gallon
of water, but if you simply reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water
you will effectively have a 5-10-5 formulation, without having to buy another
fertilizer.

Miracle Grow is also formulated as a 'bloom booster'. That ratio of
macronutrients is 10-52-10, and also includes micronutrients. You can
effectively reduce the nitrogen (and other components) by half by using 1
tablespoon in 2 gallons of water, instead of the recommended 1 tablespoon in 1
gallon of water.

On Sun, 1 Aug 2004 21:44:10 -0400, "Wil" wrote:


"Bill Smith" wrote in message
. com...
You are probably correct with the spelling but I need to know what to
do for the problem.

Annette

Another thing, don't use Miracle Grow on daylilies. It is too high in
Nitrogen [the first number on the formula]. Use a fertilizer with a low
first number such as 6-10-10, or 5-12-10. If you use a high nitrogen
fertilizer on daylilies you will get all green foliage and few bloom.

Wil

Standard all-purpose Miracle Grow is 15-30-15 plus micronutrients. If you have
this formulation you can make it 'low-nitrogen' by using less of the crystals in
a given volume of water. The recommended usage rate is 1 tablespoon per gallon
of water, but if you simply reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon per gallon of water
you will effectively have a 5-10-5 formulation, without having to buy another
fertilizer.

Miracle Grow is also formulated as a 'bloom booster'. That ratio of
macronutrients is 10-52-10, and also includes micronutrients. You can
effectively reduce the nitrogen (and other components) by half by using 1
tablespoon in 2 gallons of water, instead of the recommended 1 tablespoon in 1
gallon of water.

Standard all-purpose Miracle Grow is 15-30-15 plus micronutrients. If you
have
this formulation you can make it 'low-nitrogen' by using less of the
crystals in
a given volume of water. The recommended usage rate is 1 tablespoon per
gallon
of water, but if you simply reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon per gallon of
water
you will effectively have a 5-10-5 formulation, without having to buy
another
fertilizer.

Miracle Grow is also formulated as a 'bloom booster'. That ratio of
macronutrients is 10-52-10, and also includes micronutrients. You can
effectively reduce the nitrogen (and other components) by half by using 1
tablespoon in 2 gallons of water, instead of the recommended 1 tablespoon
in 1
gallon of water.

Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle
Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong
about that. I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box
should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash
[N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer.

Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if
foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a
little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses
it at the wrong time.

Wil

Standard all-purpose Miracle Grow is 15-30-15 plus micronutrients. If you
have
this formulation you can make it 'low-nitrogen' by using less of the
crystals in
a given volume of water. The recommended usage rate is 1 tablespoon per
gallon
of water, but if you simply reduce the amount to 1 teaspoon per gallon of
water
you will effectively have a 5-10-5 formulation, without having to buy
another
fertilizer.

Miracle Grow is also formulated as a 'bloom booster'. That ratio of
macronutrients is 10-52-10, and also includes micronutrients. You can
effectively reduce the nitrogen (and other components) by half by using 1
tablespoon in 2 gallons of water, instead of the recommended 1 tablespoon
in 1
gallon of water.

Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle
Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong
about that. I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box
should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash
[N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer.

Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if
foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a
little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses
it at the wrong time.

Wil

They like plenty of water and are heavy feeders. Try some
fertilizer and water. Especially important if it's hot and
dry this time of year in your parts. As others have said,
remove the seed pods as soon as they start to form.


Bill Smith wrote:

I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning
brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them?

I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer.

Thanks

Bill Smith


Mike Prager
Beaufort, NC (on the coast in zone 8a)
(Remove spam traps from email address to reply.)

They like plenty of water and are heavy feeders. Try some
fertilizer and water. Especially important if it's hot and
dry this time of year in your parts. As others have said,
remove the seed pods as soon as they start to form.


Bill Smith wrote:

I have stella dora plants that have quit blooming, turning
brown and drooping. What should I do or what could be attacking them?

I have been treating other plants with a slug and snail killer.

Thanks

Bill Smith


Mike Prager
Beaufort, NC (on the coast in zone 8a)
(Remove spam traps from email address to reply.)

On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:54:51 -0400, "Wil" wrote:



Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle
Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong
about that.

You're not wrong. The original MG was created for epiphytic orchids grown under
glass, and can still be bought under the names 'Miracid' and 'ProSelect'. The
NPK ratio is 30-10-10, but 90 percent of the nitrogen is bound up in urea. It
requires environmental breakdown of the urea to make the nitrogen available to
plants, so the 30 percent N figure by itself is a bit misleading.

There are still other formulations of MG. For details see 'plant food' at
http://www.miraclegro.com/

I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box
should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash
[N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer.

Yes, but caution is advised here as well, since there are formulations with
different release rates (generally, from 3 to 18 months), and formulations with
different release rates for the individual macronutrients as well. It gets very
complicated. Detailed information is available under 'fertilizers' at
http://www.scottsprohort.com/

Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if
foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a
little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses
it at the wrong time.

Over use is an ever-present possibility. Personally, I believe in deliberately
under-fertilizing with granular fertilizers like Osmocote, and supplementing
with water-solubles like Miracle Grow when I can. For soil beds I use mostly
compost, sometimes supplemented with water-solubles. The vegetable plantings
additionally get carefully measured small amounts of 13-13-13 since they are
almost all gross feeders. I'm willing to do these different things because for
me its only a hobby and I'm merely dabbling, but if I were growing
professionally I'd have to do many things differently, including fertilizing.
What I do now mostly succeeds (sometimes even more than I had hoped for), but a
commercial grower needs better than 'mostly' to survive.

Wil

On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:54:51 -0400, "Wil" wrote:



Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle
Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong
about that.

You're not wrong. The original MG was created for epiphytic orchids grown under
glass, and can still be bought under the names 'Miracid' and 'ProSelect'. The
NPK ratio is 30-10-10, but 90 percent of the nitrogen is bound up in urea. It
requires environmental breakdown of the urea to make the nitrogen available to
plants, so the 30 percent N figure by itself is a bit misleading.

There are still other formulations of MG. For details see 'plant food' at
http://www.miraclegro.com/

I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box
should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash
[N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer.

Yes, but caution is advised here as well, since there are formulations with
different release rates (generally, from 3 to 18 months), and formulations with
different release rates for the individual macronutrients as well. It gets very
complicated. Detailed information is available under 'fertilizers' at
http://www.scottsprohort.com/

Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if
foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a
little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses
it at the wrong time.

Over use is an ever-present possibility. Personally, I believe in deliberately
under-fertilizing with granular fertilizers like Osmocote, and supplementing
with water-solubles like Miracle Grow when I can. For soil beds I use mostly
compost, sometimes supplemented with water-solubles. The vegetable plantings
additionally get carefully measured small amounts of 13-13-13 since they are
almost all gross feeders. I'm willing to do these different things because for
me its only a hobby and I'm merely dabbling, but if I were growing
professionally I'd have to do many things differently, including fertilizing.
What I do now mostly succeeds (sometimes even more than I had hoped for), but a
commercial grower needs better than 'mostly' to survive.

Wil

On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 14:54:51 -0400, "Wil" wrote:



Yes indeed, thanks for pointing this out. At one time it seems that Miracle
Grow was a different formula with a higher nitrogen ratio. I may be wrong
about that.

You're not wrong. The original MG was created for epiphytic orchids grown under
glass, and can still be bought under the names 'Miracid' and 'ProSelect'. The
NPK ratio is 30-10-10, but 90 percent of the nitrogen is bound up in urea. It
requires environmental breakdown of the urea to make the nitrogen available to
plants, so the 30 percent N figure by itself is a bit misleading.

There are still other formulations of MG. For details see 'plant food' at
http://www.miraclegro.com/

I know Osmocote comes in different ratio forumlas so the box
should be read to know exactly what ratio of Nitrogen-phosphorus-potash
[N-P-K] is in the particular fertilizer.

Yes, but caution is advised here as well, since there are formulations with
different release rates (generally, from 3 to 18 months), and formulations with
different release rates for the individual macronutrients as well. It gets very
complicated. Detailed information is available under 'fertilizers' at
http://www.scottsprohort.com/

Also there is a time to use a high nitrogen fertilizer. I do use it if
foliage looks sluggish. However, too many home gardeners seem to think if a
little Miracle grow is good then more will cure all plant problems or uses
it at the wrong time.

Over use is an ever-present possibility. Personally, I believe in deliberately
under-fertilizing with granular fertilizers like Osmocote, and supplementing
with water-solubles like Miracle Grow when I can. For soil beds I use mostly
compost, sometimes supplemented with water-solubles. The vegetable plantings
additionally get carefully measured small amounts of 13-13-13 since they are
almost all gross feeders. I'm willing to do these different things because for
me its only a hobby and I'm merely dabbling, but if I were growing
professionally I'd have to do many things differently, including fertilizing.
What I do now mostly succeeds (sometimes even more than I had hoped for), but a
commercial grower needs better than 'mostly' to survive.

Wil