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#1
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Oleander Question
I have cuttings from an Oleander that I put in water, and now they have
rooted. The cuttings are about 12" long, and the roots are about 6" in clear water. I live in the desert, so, can I just plant them now? Do I have to put them in potting soil, or just keep them watered well until established? TIA |
#2
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Oleander Question
I'd put'm in potting soil and move them slowly out to the sun, and then once
they are doing good transfer them ( in cooler fall ) to normal soil. Or you could use a paper pot to put them in and when they've adjusted, put pot and all into the garden. High Mojave Desert. -- "And for the second time in four million years, the monolith awoke." Arthur C.Clarke 2062dyssey three www.starlords.org Blast Off Cybershop http://www.cafeshops.com/starlords Telescope Buyers FAQ http://home.inreach.com/starlord "Simpledog" wrote in message ... I have cuttings from an Oleander that I put in water, and now they have rooted. The cuttings are about 12" long, and the roots are about 6" in clear water. I live in the desert, so, can I just plant them now? Do I have to put them in potting soil, or just keep them watered well until established? TIA --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.734 / Virus Database: 488 - Release Date: 8/4/04 |
#3
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Oleander Question
I have found that when you root a cutting in water that the hardest thing is
moving it into compost/soil/dirt. I have found the best thing is to have a little dry peat, and dust the roots with this first, so that each root is coated and they are not hanging as one thick strand, it is then easier to get the roots to go into the pot separately, this makes the move from water easier and less stressful for the young plant. When the roots have filled the pot then either pot on or plant out, and at all stages water well, but don't over water. -- David Hill Abacus nurseries www.abacus-nurseries.co.uk |
#4
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Oleander Question
David Hill wrote:
I have found that when you root a cutting in water that the hardest thing is moving it into compost/soil/dirt. I have found the best thing is to have a little dry peat, and dust the roots with this first, so that each root is coated and they are not hanging as one thick strand, it is then easier to get the roots to go into the pot separately, this makes the move from water easier and less stressful for the young plant. When the roots have filled the pot then either pot on or plant out, and at all stages water well, but don't over water. I have to agree. When plants are rooted in water, the mere act of potting them damages the roots. Now that the cuttings are rooted, I would pot them first and keep them sheltered. Use 1/2 peat moss and 1/2 clean, coarse sand. This mix drains well, readily admits air, wets easily, and makes moisture available to roots until it is almost bone dry. (See my http://www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html.) DO NOT FEED until you see that the potted cuttings are indeed surviving. Fertilizer will only further traumatize the bruised roots. Wait at least 2-3 weeks after potting before feeding. Cuttings that survive but are not vigorous should not be fed until they start to thrive. After about 6 weeks, tip a cutting out of its pot. If the soil is filled with roots, you may plant it in your garden. If not, carefully return the plant to the pot and wait another 6 weeks. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19) Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/ |
#5
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Oleander Question
David Hill wrote:
I have found that when you root a cutting in water that the hardest thing is moving it into compost/soil/dirt. I have found the best thing is to have a little dry peat, and dust the roots with this first, so that each root is coated and they are not hanging as one thick strand, it is then easier to get the roots to go into the pot separately, this makes the move from water easier and less stressful for the young plant. When the roots have filled the pot then either pot on or plant out, and at all stages water well, but don't over water. I have to agree. When plants are rooted in water, the mere act of potting them damages the roots. Now that the cuttings are rooted, I would pot them first and keep them sheltered. Use 1/2 peat moss and 1/2 clean, coarse sand. This mix drains well, readily admits air, wets easily, and makes moisture available to roots until it is almost bone dry. (See my http://www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html.) DO NOT FEED until you see that the potted cuttings are indeed surviving. Fertilizer will only further traumatize the bruised roots. Wait at least 2-3 weeks after potting before feeding. Cuttings that survive but are not vigorous should not be fed until they start to thrive. After about 6 weeks, tip a cutting out of its pot. If the soil is filled with roots, you may plant it in your garden. If not, carefully return the plant to the pot and wait another 6 weeks. -- David E. Ross Climate: California Mediterranean Sunset Zone: 21 -- interior Santa Monica Mountains with some ocean influence (USDA 10a, very close to Sunset Zone 19) Gardening pages at http://www.rossde.com/garden/ |
#6
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www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html
David Ross wrote:
David Hill wrote: I have found that when you root a cutting in water that the hardest thing is moving it into compost/soil/dirt. I have found the best thing is to have a little dry peat, and dust the roots with this first, so that each root is coated and they are not hanging as one thick strand, it is then easier to get the roots to go into the pot separately, this makes the move from water easier and less stressful for the young plant. When the roots have filled the pot then either pot on or plant out, and at all stages water well, but don't over water. I have to agree. When plants are rooted in water, the mere act of potting them damages the roots. Now that the cuttings are rooted, I would pot them first and keep them sheltered. Use 1/2 peat moss and 1/2 clean, coarse sand. This mix drains well, readily admits air, wets easily, and makes moisture available to roots until it is almost bone dry. (See my http://www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html.) DO NOT FEED until you see that the potted cuttings are indeed surviving. Fertilizer will only further traumatize the bruised roots. Wait at least 2-3 weeks after potting before feeding. Cuttings that survive but are not vigorous should not be fed until they start to thrive. After about 6 weeks, tip a cutting out of its pot. If the soil is filled with roots, you may plant it in your garden. If not, carefully return the plant to the pot and wait another 6 weeks. Is that a coffee can of dry compressed peat moss (spaghnum peat?) or damp and broken-up peat moss, or bagged composted peat? Thanks, regards, Bob |
#7
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www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html
zxcvbob wrote:
I previously wrote: David Hill wrote: I have found that when you root a cutting in water that the hardest thing is moving it into compost/soil/dirt. I have found the best thing is to have a little dry peat, and dust the roots with this first, so that each root is coated and they are not hanging as one thick strand, it is then easier to get the roots to go into the pot separately, this makes the move from water easier and less stressful for the young plant. When the roots have filled the pot then either pot on or plant out, and at all stages water well, but don't over water. I have to agree. When plants are rooted in water, the mere act of potting them damages the roots. Now that the cuttings are rooted, I would pot them first and keep them sheltered. Use 1/2 peat moss and 1/2 clean, coarse sand. This mix drains well, readily admits air, wets easily, and makes moisture available to roots until it is almost bone dry. (See my http://www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html.) DO NOT FEED until you see that the potted cuttings are indeed surviving. Fertilizer will only further traumatize the bruised roots. Wait at least 2-3 weeks after potting before feeding. Cuttings that survive but are not vigorous should not be fed until they start to thrive. After about 6 weeks, tip a cutting out of its pot. If the soil is filled with roots, you may plant it in your garden. If not, carefully return the plant to the pot and wait another 6 weeks. Is that a coffee can of dry compressed peat moss (spaghnum peat?) or damp and broken-up peat moss, or bagged composted peat? [zxcvbob is referring to my recipe for potting mix, in which I use a coffee can as a measure.] I buy the peat moss in compressed bales. But I break it up as fine as I can before measuring. Then, I press it down in the can to eliminate air from the measurement. I measure it dry (although there might be some moisture from the bale). While blending the mix (I do it on a patio table), I try to break up any remaining lumps of peat moss. I only add water after blending in the sand and (when not dealing with new cuttings) nutrients. Plain dry peat moss tends to repell water. But the blended mix absorbs water quite readily. -- David E. Ross http://www.rossde.com/ I use Mozilla as my Web browser because I want a browser that complies with Web standards. See http://www.mozilla.org/. |
#8
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www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html
David Ross wrote:
zxcvbob wrote: Is that a coffee can of dry compressed peat moss (spaghnum peat?) or damp and broken-up peat moss, or bagged composted peat? [zxcvbob is referring to my recipe for potting mix, in which I use a coffee can as a measure.] I buy the peat moss in compressed bales. But I break it up as fine as I can before measuring. Then, I press it down in the can to eliminate air from the measurement. I measure it dry (although there might be some moisture from the bale). While blending the mix (I do it on a patio table), I try to break up any remaining lumps of peat moss. I only add water after blending in the sand and (when not dealing with new cuttings) nutrients. Plain dry peat moss tends to repell water. But the blended mix absorbs water quite readily. Thanks, David. That's exactly what I thought, but I wanted to make sure. I need to take some rose and cestrum cuttings, and I've had terrible luck trying to root anything in compost or commercial potting soil. Best regards, Bob |
#9
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www.rossde.com/garden/garden_potting_mix.html
zxcvbob wrote:
David Ross wrote: zxcvbob wrote: Is that a coffee can of dry compressed peat moss (spaghnum peat?) or damp and broken-up peat moss, or bagged composted peat? [zxcvbob is referring to my recipe for potting mix, in which I use a coffee can as a measure.] I buy the peat moss in compressed bales. But I break it up as fine as I can before measuring. Then, I press it down in the can to eliminate air from the measurement. I measure it dry (although there might be some moisture from the bale). While blending the mix (I do it on a patio table), I try to break up any remaining lumps of peat moss. I only add water after blending in the sand and (when not dealing with new cuttings) nutrients. Plain dry peat moss tends to repell water. But the blended mix absorbs water quite readily. Thanks, David. That's exactly what I thought, but I wanted to make sure. I need to take some rose and cestrum cuttings, and I've had terrible luck trying to root anything in compost or commercial potting soil. Even the most mature compost is still filled with the soil micro-organisms that promote rot; that's how compost become compost. Commercial potting soil may contain some compost and also some nutrients, which are harmful to newly sprouted, tender roots. -- David E. Ross http://www.rossde.com/ I use Mozilla as my Web browser because I want a browser that complies with Web standards. See http://www.mozilla.org/. |
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