We have a cyclamen in the house which gets indirect light at a SW window. We
have no success thus far...... modest watering results in leaves and blooms
to droop. More watering results in leaves turning yellow, and none of the
blooms or leaves look healthy and still hang down. We occasionally fertilize
with drops added to the water. What do we do wrong ?
1. Wrong light ? What is best light condition ?
2. Too much water, or too little ? Watering techniques ?
3. More or less fertilizing ? What is recommended ?
4. Repotting ? Special soil needed ?
Thanks for your views !

Ben Tuinman wrote:
We have a cyclamen in the house which gets indirect light at a SW
window. We have no success thus far...... modest watering results
in leaves and blooms to droop. More watering results in leaves
turning yellow, and none of the blooms or leaves look healthy and
still hang down. We occasionally fertilize with drops added to the
water. What do we do wrong ?
1. Wrong light ? What is best light condition ?
2. Too much water, or too little ? Watering techniques ?
3. More or less fertilizing ? What is recommended ?
4. Repotting ? Special soil needed ?
Thanks for your views !

Cyclamen in the garden go dormant after flowering.
Check Paghat's web page. www.paghat.com

--

Travis in Shoreline (just North of Seattle) Washington
USDA Zone 8
Sunset Zone 5

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
We have a cyclamen in the house which gets indirect light at a SW window.
We
have no success thus far...... modest watering results in leaves and
blooms
to droop. More watering results in leaves turning yellow, and none of the
blooms or leaves look healthy and still hang down. We occasionally
fertilize
with drops added to the water. What do we do wrong ?
1. Wrong light ? What is best light condition ?
2. Too much water, or too little ? Watering techniques ?
3. More or less fertilizing ? What is recommended ?
4. Repotting ? Special soil needed ?
Thanks for your views !



There are more than one kind of cyclamen. Is yours the type that was sold as
a house plant, perhaps in the winter? Or, bulbs you bought for the garden?

Yes Doug, it's a houseplant obtained during the winter months. I don't know
its name, but it is of the variety one most often buys in supermarkets.

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
We have a cyclamen in the house which gets indirect light at a SW
window.
We
have no success thus far...... modest watering results in leaves and
blooms
to droop. More watering results in leaves turning yellow, and none of
the
blooms or leaves look healthy and still hang down. We occasionally
fertilize
with drops added to the water. What do we do wrong ?
1. Wrong light ? What is best light condition ?
2. Too much water, or too little ? Watering techniques ?
3. More or less fertilizing ? What is recommended ?
4. Repotting ? Special soil needed ?
Thanks for your views !



There are more than one kind of cyclamen. Is yours the type that was sold
as
a house plant, perhaps in the winter? Or, bulbs you bought for the garden?

OK. I bought one back in January. It did beautifully until mid-May, but now
it looks like hell. I've been too busy with the outside garden to deal with
the cyclamen, but you've given me a reason to get out the book, "Crockett's
Indoor Garden". Here's a summary:

- Blooms October through late March or April.

- Needs sunlight or bright indirect light, and constant moisture when in
bloom.

- Needs cool temperatures and "this is where most gardeners have problems".
Prefers nights in the 40s or low 50s. Tolerates up to 65, but won't do as
well.

- Direct quote: C. persicum are very easy to keep from year to year, as long
as they're given some attention during summer. When they stop flowering,
reduce the amount of moisture they receive to the point where the soil is
allowed to dry out moderately before watering again. Keep in partial shade,
out of the sun.

Next, he's referring to the season after April, but when there's still the
possibility of late spring frosts:

- When the weather is warm enough, with night temps predicatably above 55
degrees, unpot them, shake off the old soil, and repot the corm, the
beetlike root from which the plant grows, in a 1-inch-larger pot of
commercial potting soil. *** Make sure that the corm is not set more deply
than it had been before repotting. As the corm ages, more and more of it
will grow above the soil line; ideally, it will be a third to halfway out of
the soil. Set the plant outside for the summer in a shady spot and keep the
soil barely moist. Old leaves will stay on the plant while the news ones
grow in. During the summer, the previous season's leaves will drop off. If
the corm's allowed to dry out completely, it'll lose all its foliage. But
even a bare corm will usually produce new growth again if given moisture.

I already see 3 mistakes I've made with mine. :-) By the way, the book is
worth owning, especially since you can get used copies from www.powells.com,
for less than ten dollars.
http://www.powells.com/s?kw=crockett...garden&x=0&y=0

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
Yes Doug, it's a houseplant obtained during the winter months. I don't
know
its name, but it is of the variety one most often buys in supermarkets.

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
We have a cyclamen in the house which gets indirect light at a SW
window.
We
have no success thus far...... modest watering results in leaves and
blooms
to droop. More watering results in leaves turning yellow, and none of
the
blooms or leaves look healthy and still hang down. We occasionally
fertilize
with drops added to the water. What do we do wrong ?
1. Wrong light ? What is best light condition ?
2. Too much water, or too little ? Watering techniques ?
3. More or less fertilizing ? What is recommended ?
4. Repotting ? Special soil needed ?
Thanks for your views !



There are more than one kind of cyclamen. Is yours the type that was sold
as
a house plant, perhaps in the winter? Or, bulbs you bought for the
garden?

Thanks for the good info, Doug. We now know more about this nice plant than
ever before, and we are going to try to obtain a copy of the recommended
book. Thanks again ! Ben.


"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
OK. I bought one back in January. It did beautifully until mid-May, but
now
it looks like hell. I've been too busy with the outside garden to deal
with
the cyclamen, but you've given me a reason to get out the book,
"Crockett's
Indoor Garden". Here's a summary:

- Blooms October through late March or April.

- Needs sunlight or bright indirect light, and constant moisture when in
bloom.

- Needs cool temperatures and "this is where most gardeners have
problems".
Prefers nights in the 40s or low 50s. Tolerates up to 65, but won't do as
well.

- Direct quote: C. persicum are very easy to keep from year to year, as
long
as they're given some attention during summer. When they stop flowering,
reduce the amount of moisture they receive to the point where the soil is
allowed to dry out moderately before watering again. Keep in partial
shade,
out of the sun.

Next, he's referring to the season after April, but when there's still the
possibility of late spring frosts:

- When the weather is warm enough, with night temps predicatably above 55
degrees, unpot them, shake off the old soil, and repot the corm, the
beetlike root from which the plant grows, in a 1-inch-larger pot of
commercial potting soil. *** Make sure that the corm is not set more deply
than it had been before repotting. As the corm ages, more and more of it
will grow above the soil line; ideally, it will be a third to halfway out
of
the soil. Set the plant outside for the summer in a shady spot and keep
the
soil barely moist. Old leaves will stay on the plant while the news ones
grow in. During the summer, the previous season's leaves will drop off. If
the corm's allowed to dry out completely, it'll lose all its foliage. But
even a bare corm will usually produce new growth again if given moisture.

I already see 3 mistakes I've made with mine. :-) By the way, the book is
worth owning, especially since you can get used copies from
www.powells.com,
for less than ten dollars.
http://www.powells.com/s?kw=crockett...garden&x=0&y=0

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
Yes Doug, it's a houseplant obtained during the winter months. I don't
know
its name, but it is of the variety one most often buys in supermarkets.

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
We have a cyclamen in the house which gets indirect light at a SW
window.
We
have no success thus far...... modest watering results in leaves and
blooms
to droop. More watering results in leaves turning yellow, and none of
the
blooms or leaves look healthy and still hang down. We occasionally
fertilize
with drops added to the water. What do we do wrong ?
1. Wrong light ? What is best light condition ?
2. Too much water, or too little ? Watering techniques ?
3. More or less fertilizing ? What is recommended ?
4. Repotting ? Special soil needed ?
Thanks for your views !



There are more than one kind of cyclamen. Is yours the type that was
sold
as
a house plant, perhaps in the winter? Or, bulbs you bought for the
garden?

That online bookstore's great for books like the one I mentioned. Very
dependable, and when they post descriptions of the condition of a used book,
they're accurate.

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
Thanks for the good info, Doug. We now know more about this nice plant
than
ever before, and we are going to try to obtain a copy of the recommended
book. Thanks again ! Ben.


"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
OK. I bought one back in January. It did beautifully until mid-May, but
now
it looks like hell. I've been too busy with the outside garden to deal
with
the cyclamen, but you've given me a reason to get out the book,
"Crockett's
Indoor Garden". Here's a summary:

- Blooms October through late March or April.

- Needs sunlight or bright indirect light, and constant moisture when in
bloom.

- Needs cool temperatures and "this is where most gardeners have
problems".
Prefers nights in the 40s or low 50s. Tolerates up to 65, but won't do as
well.

- Direct quote: C. persicum are very easy to keep from year to year, as
long
as they're given some attention during summer. When they stop flowering,
reduce the amount of moisture they receive to the point where the soil is
allowed to dry out moderately before watering again. Keep in partial
shade,
out of the sun.

Next, he's referring to the season after April, but when there's still
the
possibility of late spring frosts:

- When the weather is warm enough, with night temps predicatably above 55
degrees, unpot them, shake off the old soil, and repot the corm, the
beetlike root from which the plant grows, in a 1-inch-larger pot of
commercial potting soil. *** Make sure that the corm is not set more
deply
than it had been before repotting. As the corm ages, more and more of it
will grow above the soil line; ideally, it will be a third to halfway out
of
the soil. Set the plant outside for the summer in a shady spot and keep
the
soil barely moist. Old leaves will stay on the plant while the news ones
grow in. During the summer, the previous season's leaves will drop off.
If
the corm's allowed to dry out completely, it'll lose all its foliage. But
even a bare corm will usually produce new growth again if given moisture.

I already see 3 mistakes I've made with mine. :-) By the way, the book
is
worth owning, especially since you can get used copies from
www.powells.com,
for less than ten dollars.
http://www.powells.com/s?kw=crockett...garden&x=0&y=0

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
Yes Doug, it's a houseplant obtained during the winter months. I don't
know
its name, but it is of the variety one most often buys in supermarkets.

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...

"Ben Tuinman" wrote in message
.. .
We have a cyclamen in the house which gets indirect light at a SW
window.
We
have no success thus far...... modest watering results in leaves and
blooms
to droop. More watering results in leaves turning yellow, and none
of
the
blooms or leaves look healthy and still hang down. We occasionally
fertilize
with drops added to the water. What do we do wrong ?
1. Wrong light ? What is best light condition ?
2. Too much water, or too little ? Watering techniques ?
3. More or less fertilizing ? What is recommended ?
4. Repotting ? Special soil needed ?
Thanks for your views !



There are more than one kind of cyclamen. Is yours the type that was
sold
as
a house plant, perhaps in the winter? Or, bulbs you bought for the
garden?