Got a challenge for you tractor and mower gurus.

We have an RZT50 Cub Cadet mower that uses an MTD belt, p/n 954-04044. This
belt sells for approx $35-40. This belt measures approx 133" outside
diameter.

The one that was on there broke, the other day. None of my local lawn mower
shops or auto parts places had a reference to this belt. Nor could they
match it when I took it in. The only way I could get it was to have our Cub
Cadet service center order one.

Granted the ends are jagged, but it measures approx 132".

I'm now trying to find a standard belt that costs less, and is available.

There are A-128s, A-133s, and A-135s that are standard, and they cost approx
$6ea.

How do I cross the MTD belt p/n to a standard belt so I can get them at my
local NAPA store? Should I just try using an A-133 and see if it works? We
have a slop factor which the idler arm can accommodate.

"RB" wrote in message
. ..
Got a challenge for you tractor and mower gurus.

We have an RZT50 Cub Cadet mower that uses an MTD belt, p/n 954-04044.
This
belt sells for approx $35-40. This belt measures approx 133" outside
diameter.

The one that was on there broke, the other day. None of my local lawn
mower
shops or auto parts places had a reference to this belt. Nor could they
match it when I took it in. The only way I could get it was to have our
Cub
Cadet service center order one.

Granted the ends are jagged, but it measures approx 132".

I'm now trying to find a standard belt that costs less, and is available.

There are A-128s, A-133s, and A-135s that are standard, and they cost
approx
$6ea.

How do I cross the MTD belt p/n to a standard belt so I can get them at my
local NAPA store? Should I just try using an A-133 and see if it works?
We
have a slop factor which the idler arm can accommodate.

Just take the belt in to an Auto Parts Store (NAPA, CarQuest, Etc) and they
will match it with an 'in house' brand or suitable substitute that will fit.

good luck with substitute belt, unless its an exact cross,i don
think it will last to long.. sometimes you can get away with it though.
i use the oem belts most of the time for that reason,especially if it
turns and twists.. lucas

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

}}} Just take the belt in to an Auto Parts Store (NAPA, CarQuest, Etc) and
they
will match it with an 'in house' brand or suitable substitute that will
fit.{{{

Good try; didn't work.

Note this passage below: None of my local lawn
mower
shops or auto parts places had a reference to this belt. Nor could they
match it when I took it in. The only way I could get it was to have our
Cub
Cadet service center order one.

----- Original Message -----
From: ee
Newsgroups: alt.home.lawn.garden
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: deck v belt issue



"RB" wrote in message
. ..
Got a challenge for you tractor and mower gurus.

We have an RZT50 Cub Cadet mower that uses an MTD belt, p/n 954-04044.
This
belt sells for approx $35-40. This belt measures approx 133" outside
diameter.

The one that was on there broke, the other day. None of my local lawn
mower
shops or auto parts places had a reference to this belt. Nor could they
match it when I took it in. The only way I could get it was to have our
Cub
Cadet service center order one.

Granted the ends are jagged, but it measures approx 132".

I'm now trying to find a standard belt that costs less, and is available.

There are A-128s, A-133s, and A-135s that are standard, and they cost
approx
$6ea.

How do I cross the MTD belt p/n to a standard belt so I can get them at my
local NAPA store? Should I just try using an A-133 and see if it works?
We
have a slop factor which the idler arm can accommodate.

Just take the belt in to an Auto Parts Store (NAPA, CarQuest, Etc) and they
will match it with an 'in house' brand or suitable substitute that will fit.

"RB" wrote in message
...
}}} Just take the belt in to an Auto Parts Store (NAPA, CarQuest, Etc)
and
they
will match it with an 'in house' brand or suitable substitute that will
fit.{{{

Good try; didn't work.

Then I'd bring that information (length, size, type, etc) and Google for
"replacement V belt" or similar phrase until you locate a replacement. I'd
think you'll have much luck crossing the original number. I'd also contact
the mfr and the 'authorized repair shops'.

Your problem is the parts guy doesn't know how to identify a belt.
Here's a Gates vendor that has just about every v-belt ever made listed
along with dimensions.

http://www.evbelts.com/index.php/cPa...e5b082c2f2a49b

Find the belt you need and take the Gates number to the store.


"RB" wrote in message
...
}}} Just take the belt in to an Auto Parts Store (NAPA, CarQuest, Etc)
and they
will match it with an 'in house' brand or suitable substitute that will
fit.{{{

Good try; didn't work.

Note this passage below: None of my local lawn
mower
shops or auto parts places had a reference to this belt. Nor could they
match it when I took it in. The only way I could get it was to have our
Cub
Cadet service center order one.

----- Original Message -----
From: ee
Newsgroups: alt.home.lawn.garden
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:33 PM
Subject: deck v belt issue



"RB" wrote in message
. ..
Got a challenge for you tractor and mower gurus.

We have an RZT50 Cub Cadet mower that uses an MTD belt, p/n 954-04044.
This
belt sells for approx $35-40. This belt measures approx 133" outside
diameter.

The one that was on there broke, the other day. None of my local lawn
mower
shops or auto parts places had a reference to this belt. Nor could they
match it when I took it in. The only way I could get it was to have our
Cub
Cadet service center order one.

Granted the ends are jagged, but it measures approx 132".

I'm now trying to find a standard belt that costs less, and is available.

There are A-128s, A-133s, and A-135s that are standard, and they cost
approx
$6ea.

How do I cross the MTD belt p/n to a standard belt so I can get them at
my
local NAPA store? Should I just try using an A-133 and see if it works?
We
have a slop factor which the idler arm can accommodate.

Just take the belt in to an Auto Parts Store (NAPA, CarQuest, Etc) and
they
will match it with an 'in house' brand or suitable substitute that will
fit.

"RB" wrote in message
. ..
Got a challenge for you tractor and mower gurus.

We have an RZT50 Cub Cadet mower that uses an MTD belt, p/n 954-04044.
This belt sells for approx $35-40. This belt measures approx 133" outside
diameter.

The one that was on there broke, the other day. None of my local lawn
mower shops or auto parts places had a reference to this belt. Nor could
they match it when I took it in. The only way I could get it was to have
our Cub Cadet service center order one.

Granted the ends are jagged, but it measures approx 132".

I'm now trying to find a standard belt that costs less, and is available.

There are A-128s, A-133s, and A-135s that are standard, and they cost
approx $6ea.

I doubt very seriously wether a $6 belt is going to last more than a day or
two on a mower deck.






How do I cross the MTD belt p/n to a standard belt so I can get them at my
local NAPA store? Should I just try using an A-133 and see if it works?
We have a slop factor which the idler arm can accommodate.

"RB" wrote in message
. ..
Just broke a belt on our church Cub Cadet RZT 50. .......". I know
that's not the actual measurement, because the ends are jagged.
snip
We have approx 8 acres of somewhat rough terrain, so belts will get torn
up, no doubt. I maintain the mowers and do the mowing, volunteer.

Not sure what you call "rough terrain" - and how many hours does this Z have
on it ?
Are you brush hogging with it ? It sounds like a relatively new machine and
lawn, and I would be trying to figure out why it is tearing up belts .
I cut small sumacs and briar patches with my machines on really rough
terrain (for years) and can only think of 2 mower deck belts I've replaced
on my old machines.

It's tearing up belts when we hit big tree limbs hidden in the grass.
Remnants of hurricane Ivan. We had big pines down all over the place. Had
to cut 'em up and get 'em out of there. Pieces still remain waiting for a
mower. No matter how many times we mow, new chunks still surface.

"RB" wrote in message
. ..
It's tearing up belts when we hit big tree limbs hidden in the grass.
Remnants of hurricane Ivan. We had big pines down all over the place.
Had to cut 'em up and get 'em out of there. Pieces still remain waiting
for a mower. No matter how many times we mow, new chunks still surface.

I've mowed to much to swallow that - doesn't make sense.

Don't start the deck turning when it is in grass. Turn the deck on when you
are over asphalt or concrete so that the blades can spin up freely before
any cutting is started. Walk over the ground before beginning to mow to
pick up all debris. Don't over work the mower in extremely tall grass. A
poorly trained operator can ruin a belt in minutes. The cheap belts are for
fractional horsepower applications and burn up quickly in a mower. I
would buy a very good belt (expensive) and then take care of it. Train
every operator.

"Pat" wrote in message
...
Don't start the deck turning when it is in grass. Turn the deck on when
you
are over asphalt or concrete so that the blades can spin up freely before
any cutting is started. Walk over the ground before beginning to mow to
pick up all debris. Don't over work the mower in extremely tall grass.
A
poorly trained operator can ruin a belt in minutes. The cheap belts are
for
fractional horsepower applications and burn up quickly in a mower. I
would buy a very good belt (expensive) and then take care of it. Train
every operator.

That's good advice. Your belt should never 'chirp' or 'big down the motor'
when you engage it.

If you take good care of your equipment, it will last.

"Pat" wrote in message
...
Don't start the deck turning when it is in grass. Turn the deck on when
you are over asphalt or concrete so that the blades can spin up freely
before any cutting is started. Walk over the ground before beginning to
mow to pick up all debris. Don't over work the mower in extremely tall
grass. A poorly trained operator can ruin a belt in minutes. The cheap
belts are for fractional horsepower applications and burn up quickly in a
mower. I would buy a very good belt (expensive) and then take care of
it. Train every operator.

Well said. The stuff we take for granted needs to be spelled out for some
people I guess.