Hi Restrob, Originally yes I did replace those gaskets but not since.
Plug still looks new. What about that third screw on the bottm under
the high low mixture screws ? It is for idle but seems to directly
affect the mixtures because after the overhaul she was racing and I
lowered it and the mixtures went out of wack and needed a reset. What
part does this play is it like the old Carter AFB carb where you had
the big air bleed on the bottom between the mixtures ? Does that screw
control a air bleed ? My car spark tester does not seem to work on
this machine must be different in voltage than a car engines voltage. I
was so furious day before last that I wanted to send it sailing into
the nearest wall.







restrorob wrote:
Auto Tech Wrote:
Hi Restrob, By now you must think ""Oh what does he want now"" When
you see me write you. I managed to get the pull start to work and got
her started. Now I checked the crank for play while the recoil was
off
and no play. However I am going to fling this saw off a wall soon. I
replaced that screen you told me about while the saw was apart for the
pull starter and she started up running great however a few moments
later she started to hesitate on high r,p,m engagement so I tinkered
once again with the fuel settings and she is more responsive to fuel
mixture tinkering and stalls much quicker BUT she is having so much
trouble when I pull up on the trigger for high r,p,m's she dogs and I
adjust and move mixture only say an 1/8 of a turn either way and one
way she stalls almost instantly and the other she loads and stalls.
Her idle mixtures are even more sensitive and she was never so
sensitive. Any idea's any thoughts is appreciated.


OK, Have you replaced the spark plug since you have been adjusting the
carb. so much ? Is it still white looking ? Do you have a in-line
spark tester ? Did you replace the carb. mount gasket ? Did you get
the gasket on right where the small hole aligned with the impulse hole
in the cylinder ? Close both the low speed and hi speed adjustment
screws. Open the low speed one turn and leave it, Open the high speed 1
1/4 to 1 1/2 turns then start it up and try adjusting the high speed
only at this point. Opening is richening closing is leaning, If you get
the high speed adjusted properly go back to the low speed and fine tune
it. A lean low speed (Screwed in too far) with cause a bog on throttle
up.


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+



--
restrorob

The idle adjustment screw only regulates the butterfly, Set the hi and low screws where I suggested and try starting it. If it idles too high with the low speed adjuster opened at one turn leave that adjuster alone and only lower the idle screw.


If you still can't get it running properly have a friend snap a picture as it hits the wall and post it here. Then go buy yourself a STIHL and be done with it !!!

Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ! I will do that and the way I feel right now I am
in need of a saw that is better. I do have to give credit where credit
is due and that the Husqvarna served me for years with out one glitch.
I got this saw by doing work for someone on his vehicle and he could
not pay for the work that was done so he gave me the saw as payment and
that was some 10 years ago.





restrorob wrote:
Auto Tech Wrote:
Hi Restrob, Originally yes I did replace those gaskets but not since.
Plug still looks new. What about that third screw on the bottm under
the high low mixture screws ? It is for idle but seems to directly
affect the mixtures because after the overhaul she was racing and I
lowered it and the mixtures went out of wack and needed a reset. What
part does this play is it like the old Carter AFB carb where you had
the big air bleed on the bottom between the mixtures ? Does that
screw
control a air bleed ? My car spark tester does not seem to work on
this machine must be different in voltage than a car engines voltage.
I
was so furious day before last that I wanted to send it sailing into
the nearest wall.


The idle adjustment screw only regulates the butterfly, Set the hi and
low screws where I suggested and try starting it. If it idles too high
with the low speed adjuster opened at one turn leave that adjuster
alone and only lower the idle screw.


If you still can't get it running properly have a friend snap a picture
as it hits the wall and post it here. Then go buy yourself a STIHL and
be done with it !!!


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+



--
restrorob

Sell it on eBay and get a STIHL
JD

"Auto Tech" wrote in message
oups.com...
I had developed a severe stall condition especially when you tried to
use high rpm jets. I bought a carb kit and overhauled the carb BUT
lacked the information on settings internally BUT the carb did not look
very complicated. I am a A class Ford Technition and have loads of
experience on lawn tractors with B&S and Tucemseh but really have no
experience with 2 cycle engines and carbs. I am also having trouble
with chain stretch and my chain is only a few months old. BUT top item
is low on power and dogging while cutting thick wood and Misquite. She
alsways seems to need variances on fuel mixture as she is used and it
should not need this one setting should do it. I live in Nm and cut
wood daily with the saw for heat purposes. This saw is a critical tool
for everyday while winter lasts.

Any help is appreciated..