I had developed a severe stall condition especially when you tried to
use high rpm jets. I bought a carb kit and overhauled the carb BUT
lacked the information on settings internally BUT the carb did not look
very complicated. I am a A class Ford Technition and have loads of
experience on lawn tractors with B&S and Tucemseh but really have no
experience with 2 cycle engines and carbs. I am also having trouble
with chain stretch and my chain is only a few months old. BUT top item
is low on power and dogging while cutting thick wood and Misquite. She
alsways seems to need variances on fuel mixture as she is used and it
should not need this one setting should do it. I live in Nm and cut
wood daily with the saw for heat purposes. This saw is a critical tool
for everyday while winter lasts.

Any help is appreciated..

There is a small fuel in-let screen inside the carb., This screen gets glazed over from fuel and restricts fuel flow. It is hard to see the glazing so should be sprayed out with carb. & choke spray cleaner. Also the fuel filter should be checked, These little engines must have a free flowing filter with no restriction. Screw the adjusters in all the way then back low speed out one turn, High speed one and a half turn. This is a starting point for fine tuning once started.

As for chain stretch, That is caused in most part from the chain getting in the dirt while cutting. Use a shovel or something to lift the logs little as an inch sliding something under to get it off the ground before cutting. Also if the chain is stretched badly check the sprocket for grooves, Grooves in the sprocket adds to chain stretch also. If there are grooves in the sprocket replace both sprocket and chain as a pair, Never install a new chain on a grooved up sprocket it will only cause the chain to stretch fast like you stated.

Hi Restrob, I had that carb completely apart and saw no screen. I
replaced it's needle and arm and diaphram and on the bottom I replaced
the gasket and the floopy type diaphram that opened and closed ports
and saw no sign of a screen. I looked and figured there had to be but
did not see it anywhere and since the overhaul she is somewhat useable
but lacks horse and her performance is lousy and needs twekaing all the
time. I did start at 1 turn each screw for starting point and opened
it from there. Like I said I have overhauled all brands of car carbs
over the years but this timy little carb was new to me and if there is
a screen hidden where is it ??






restrorob wrote:
Auto Tech Wrote:
I had developed a severe stall condition especially when you tried to
use high rpm jets. I bought a carb kit and overhauled the carb BUT
lacked the information on settings internally BUT the carb did not
look
very complicated. I am a A class Ford Technition and have loads of
experience on lawn tractors with B&S and Tucemseh but really have no
experience with 2 cycle engines and carbs. I am also having trouble
with chain stretch and my chain is only a few months old. BUT top item
is low on power and dogging while cutting thick wood and Misquite.
She
alsways seems to need variances on fuel mixture as she is used and it
should not need this one setting should do it. I live in Nm and cut
wood daily with the saw for heat purposes. This saw is a critical
tool
for everyday while winter lasts.

Any help is appreciated..


There is a small fuel in-let screen inside the carb., This screen gets
glazed over from fuel and restricts fuel flow. It is hard to see the
glazing so should be sprayed out with carb. & choke spray cleaner. Also
the fuel filter should be checked, These little engines must have a free
flowing filter with no restriction. Screw the adjusters in all the way
then back low speed out one turn, High speed one and a half turn. This
is a starting point for fine tuning once started.

As for chain stretch, That is caused in most part from the chain
getting in the dirt while cutting. Use a shovel or something to lift
the logs little as an inch sliding something under to get it off the
ground before cutting. Also if the chain is stretched badly check the
sprocket for grooves, Grooves in the sprocket adds to chain stretch
also. If there are grooves in the sprocket replace both sprocket and
chain as a pair, Never install a new chain on a grooved up sprocket it
will only cause the chain to stretch fast like you stated.




--
restrorob

Hmmm,
It should have been located under the diaphragm above the fuel inlet needle (which is located in the center of the carb. body).

Can you post the brand carb. and the number stamped in it ?

Have you checked the spark arrester screen in the muffler ? These will clog up from the fuel mix restricting exhaust flow and could cause as you describe also.

Hi Restrob. Yupper i did and it had partial restriction so I did an
old trick I learned long ago from the 2 cycle guy I worked with and set
the muffler in gasoline and set it afire and it cleared out the partial
restriction to a full flow again. The carb is a Walbro I do not
recollect the number but if it helps here is the link to a carb list
and it is for a 154 SE

Year of production 1984

http://wssemw.arinet.com/Empartweb52...ISAPI52.dll?MF

Here is the number of thre kit
rk22hda walbro carb kit







restrorob wrote:
Auto Tech Wrote:
Hi Restrob, I had that carb completely apart and saw no screen. I
replaced it's needle and arm and diaphram and on the bottom I replaced
the gasket and the floopy type diaphram that opened and closed ports
and saw no sign of a screen. I looked and figured there had to be but
did not see it anywhere and since the overhaul she is somewhat useable
but lacks horse and her performance is lousy and needs twekaing all
the
time. I did start at 1 turn each screw for starting point and opened
it from there. Like I said I have overhauled all brands of car carbs
over the years but this timy little carb was new to me and if there is
a screen hidden where is it ??




Hmmm,
It should have been located under the diaphragm above the fuel inlet
needle (which is located in the center of the carb. body).

Can you post the brand carb. and the number stamped in it ?

Have you checked the spark arrester screen in the muffler ? These will
clog up from the fuel mix restricting exhaust flow and could cause as
you describe also.




--
restrorob

OK, From one Ex Auto Tech to a Present Auto Tech Below is a break-down of your carb. and where the fuel inlet screen would be located, Either the top under the diaphragm or on the bottom under the fuel pump. As I said it is hard to see the lacquer in the screen so spray it out good with carb. & choke cleaner.

Hi Restrob, My pix I sent you did not show a plate covering a screen.
Now I see why I did not see a screen. I hope I can save the plate for
I do not have another. You have helped me a great amount and it now
answers why she is so nasty running and needs constant fuel ratio
changes and she has no hootsba ha ha ha ha ha balls if you will and she
simply won't scream and still at times acts boggy. I am learning about
2 cycle the hard way.

Tom



restrorob wrote:
Auto Tech Wrote:
Hi Restrob. Yupper i did and it had partial restriction so I did an
old trick I learned long ago from the 2 cycle guy I worked with and
set
the muffler in gasoline and set it afire and it cleared out the
partial
restriction to a full flow again. The carb is a Walbro I do not
recollect the number but if it helps here is the link to a carb list
and it is for a 154 SE

Year of production 1984

http://tinyurl.com/usvlz

Here is the number of thre kit
rk22hda walbro carb kit



OK, From one Ex Auto Tech to a Present Auto Tech Below is a break-down
of your carb. and where the fuel inlet screen would be located, Either
the top under the diaphragm or on the bottom under the fuel pump. As I
said it is hard to see the lacquer in the screen so spray it out good
with carb. & choke cleaner.


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: Husky 154 Carb..jpg |
|Download: http://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=2920|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+



--
restrorob

if you can tell me the carb make and model you have may be able to
help. if the saw is a few years old,it probably is time for fuel lines
and filter . btw have you checked muffler to see if it or screen is
clogged?

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

Put a new spark plug in also. It fixed the carb adjustment problem I
thought I had in my old saw.


From Mel & Donnie in Bluebird Valley





http://community.webtv.net/MelKelly/TheKids

The Carb is a Walbro, Restrob has been walking me thru some of the
area's where I have been and still am in the dark. I had a schematic
of the carb breakdown and it did not show a metal disc covering a
screen and when I can spare the saw for a day I will once again see
about popping that metal disc and access the screen. As I said to
Restrob she has no guts and needs constant tweaking when I am cutting
wood. She has a new fuel filter in her tank and the hose is not
collapsed it is in great condition. This happened suddenly when I was
cutting sideways she suddenly starved and had no high jets so I rebuilt
the car using a kit.After the rebuild it was better but high was no
where like it was and she was never doggish restrob said it was most
likely the screen which I had not accessed.




wrote:
if you can tell me the carb make and model you have may be able to
help. if the saw is a few years old,it probably is time for fuel lines
and filter . btw have you checked muffler to see if it or screen is
clogged?

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

Hi Restrob, I popped the pull cord today and was reinstalling it and
did what I usually would do is tie a knot on the end of the cord like i
would on a tractor or hand mowers pull cord but on this the knot is in
the way. Is there supposed to be like midrift pin on the end of the
pull cord on the 1984 154 SE Huskavarna ?


Auto Tech wrote:
Hi Restrob, My pix I sent you did not show a plate covering a screen.
Now I see why I did not see a screen. I hope I can save the plate for
I do not have another. You have helped me a great amount and it now
answers why she is so nasty running and needs constant fuel ratio
changes and she has no hootsba ha ha ha ha ha balls if you will and she
simply won't scream and still at times acts boggy. I am learning about
2 cycle the hard way.

Tom



restrorob wrote:
Auto Tech Wrote:
Hi Restrob. Yupper i did and it had partial restriction so I did an
old trick I learned long ago from the 2 cycle guy I worked with and
set
the muffler in gasoline and set it afire and it cleared out the
partial
restriction to a full flow again. The carb is a Walbro I do not
recollect the number but if it helps here is the link to a carb list
and it is for a 154 SE

Year of production 1984

http://tinyurl.com/usvlz

Here is the number of thre kit
rk22hda walbro carb kit



OK, From one Ex Auto Tech to a Present Auto Tech Below is a break-down
of your carb. and where the fuel inlet screen would be located, Either
the top under the diaphragm or on the bottom under the fuel pump. As I
said it is hard to see the lacquer in the screen so spray it out good
with carb. & choke cleaner.


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: Husky 154 Carb..jpg |
|Download: http://www.gardenbanter.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=2920|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+



--
restrorob

Sorry so late checking back.....No no pin in this one just a knot, Make sure you got the right size rope and pull the knot tight with two pairs of pliers to make it small as possible.

As for the welch plug (cover plug you called it) you shouldn't need to remove it, If you can't see the screen it wont be under that plug. It will be on the bottom side of the carb. under the pump cover.

If you noticed what I typed in the picture I posted, The screen could be on either the top or bottom of this carb.

One other thing you may want to check since you have the recoil assembly off is the crankshaft bearings. Do this by grabbing the flywheel and try rocking it up and down, If the bearings are worn it's possible the crank seals are leaking (sucking air) causing a lean and rich condition (as you saying continuous adjusting required).

Thanks for the reply Restrob. Boy I hope the bearings are not loose
for that may take my saw where I do not wish to take it. To the trash
can. I doubt she is worth the price of a complete overhaul for then the
only part left will be the plastic casing.




restrorob wrote:
Auto Tech Wrote:
Hi Restrob, I popped the pull cord today and was reinstalling it and
did what I usually would do is tie a knot on the end of the cord like
i
would on a tractor or hand mowers pull cord but on this the knot is in
the way. Is there supposed to be like midrift pin on the end of the
pull cord on the 1984 154 SE Huskavarna ?


Sorry so late checking back.....No no pin in this one just a knot, Make
sure you got the right size rope and pull the knot tight with two pairs
of pliers to make it small as possible.

As for the welch plug (cover plug you called it) you shouldn't need to
remove it, If you can't see the screen it wont be under that plug. It
will be on the bottom side of the carb. under the pump cover.

If you noticed what I typed in the picture I posted, The screen could
be on either the top or bottom of this carb.

One other thing you may want to check since you have the recoil
assembly off is the crankshaft bearings. Do this by grabbing the
flywheel and try rocking it up and down, If the bearings are worn it's
possible the crank seals are leaking (sucking air) causing a lean and
rich condition (as you saying continuous adjusting required).


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+



--
restrorob

Hi Restrob, By now you must think ""Oh what does he want now"" When
you see me write you. I managed to get the pull start to work and got
her started. Now I checked the crank for play while the recoil was off
and no play. However I am going to fling this saw off a wall soon. I
replaced that screen you told me about while the saw was apart for the
pull starter and she started up running great however a few moments
later she started to hesitate on high r,p,m engagement so I tinkered
once again with the fuel settings and she is more responsive to fuel
mixture tinkering and stalls much quicker BUT she is having so much
trouble when I pull up on the trigger for high r,p,m's she dogs and I
adjust and move mixture only say an 1/8 of a turn either way and one
way she stalls almost instantly and the other she loads and stalls.
Her idle mixtures are even more sensitive and she was never so
sensitive. Any idea's any thoughts is appreciated.





Auto Tech wrote:
Thanks for the reply Restrob. Boy I hope the bearings are not loose
for that may take my saw where I do not wish to take it. To the trash
can. I doubt she is worth the price of a complete overhaul for then the
only part left will be the plastic casing.




restrorob wrote:
Auto Tech Wrote:
Hi Restrob, I popped the pull cord today and was reinstalling it and
did what I usually would do is tie a knot on the end of the cord like
i
would on a tractor or hand mowers pull cord but on this the knot is in
the way. Is there supposed to be like midrift pin on the end of the
pull cord on the 1984 154 SE Huskavarna ?


Sorry so late checking back.....No no pin in this one just a knot, Make
sure you got the right size rope and pull the knot tight with two pairs
of pliers to make it small as possible.

As for the welch plug (cover plug you called it) you shouldn't need to
remove it, If you can't see the screen it wont be under that plug. It
will be on the bottom side of the carb. under the pump cover.

If you noticed what I typed in the picture I posted, The screen could
be on either the top or bottom of this carb.

One other thing you may want to check since you have the recoil
assembly off is the crankshaft bearings. Do this by grabbing the
flywheel and try rocking it up and down, If the bearings are worn it's
possible the crank seals are leaking (sucking air) causing a lean and
rich condition (as you saying continuous adjusting required).


+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+



--
restrorob

OK, Have you replaced the spark plug since you have been adjusting the carb. so much ? Is it still white looking ? Do you have a in-line spark tester ? Did you replace the carb. mount gasket ? Did you get the gasket on right where the small hole aligned with the impulse hole in the cylinder ? Close both the low speed and hi speed adjustment screws. Open the low speed one turn and leave it, Open the high speed 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns then start it up and try adjusting the high speed only at this point. Opening is richening closing is leaning, If you get the high speed adjusted properly go back to the low speed and fine tune it. A lean low speed (Screwed in too far) with cause a bog on throttle up.