"James" wrote in message
...

I am building a split-rail fence out of locust rails and posts. The
posts
will be set about 8 feet apart. I plan to dig postholes about 18 inches
deep, and set the posts into concrete.

What is the best method, and type of concrete ? My thinking was to use
Quickcrete fast-setting concrete. With similar things in the past, I have
mixed the concrete with water, and poured the mix in and around the post.
But, it seems that I have heard that other folks just pour the dry power
in
the hole around the post, and allow the moisture in the surrounding soil
to
harden the mix. Others pour in dry, and then just add a modest amount of
water in the hole.

What is the preferred method ??

Thanks for any advice on this !!

James



You can just pour dry mix around the post.if you wish add a little water on
top to speed setting.In a few days it will be hard, meanwhile the dry mix
will hold the post in place.
Be aware the posts will need to be replaced eventually ,then you will have
to deal with the concrete.

Be aware the posts will need to be replaced eventually ,then you will have
to deal with the concrete.- Hide quoted text -



yeah and they fail faster in concrete.

but as a friend says its your back

OP can think about this as he digs up his rotted posts and concrete

James wrote:
Nope, sorry. Gonna use concrete. My question relates to the best
concrete, and the method to plant them.

thanks !!


James


There is no "best". The kind of concrete is irrelevant. As long as it is
mixed properly any concrete will do what you want.

--
Art

There is no "best". The kind of concrete is irrelevant. As long as it is
mixed properly any concrete will do what you want.


If OP INSITS on concreting them in secure them in place, tied off with
ropes or something, use dry mix its more convenient, leave set tied up
a week or so flood area a couple times, so its all hardened

On Jun 15, 8:50 pm, Eggs Zachtly wrote:
[flup set to a.h.l.g.]

James said:

Nope, sorry. Gonna use concrete. My question relates to the best
concrete, and the method to plant them.

Just curious, but when the wood rots away, how will you replace it? And,
you've been told (more than once) that the depth you've chosen isn't deep
enough, yet you insist on not heeding advice. You seem to have the answers,
so which one would you prefer to be told about the concrete?

--

Eggs

.sig not found. (A)bort, (R)etry, (F)ail?

Since he isn't willing to accept _any_ advice, I wonder why he asked
in the first place.

FWIW the only time I used 'crete is for steel posts (chain link) or
when setting posts in wet gruound (you can't tamp wet dirt). Last
fence I built was 1980 or thereabouts, still rock solid except for a
few of the RR ties that have rotted out.

Harry K

I pre-mixed, wetter than usual,

Why wetter then usual?

wrote in message
ups.com...

Be aware the posts will need to be replaced eventually ,then you will
have
to deal with the concrete.- Hide quoted text -



yeah and they fail faster in concrete.

but as a friend says its your back

OP can think about this as he digs up his rotted posts and concrete


the best idea I've seen was in England where the entire post was concrete
with slots to put wooden rails in.It was very nice looking and very durable.

"Ook" Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the
Don't send me any freakin' spam wrote in message
...

I pre-mixed, wetter than usual,

Why wetter then usual?


If you hadn't deleted the reason, which is in my previous reply, I could
have pointed it out to you. You only scoped one sentence, actually 1/2, and
presented a question to that.
Dave

Dave wrote:


TX hill country. Fractured limestone is immediately below the soil. Only a
rock bar and alot of sweat, or, a diamond tipped auger can cut it. 18" is
typical depth for corner and tensioning posts on typical pasture fence.
Wood or steel posts.

Guess answers for this are kinda like gardening, depends on the
conditions... Sandy soil, clay, swamp, gravel, or rocky in your case.

I pre-mixed, wetter than usual, the concrete prior to pouring in the hole
with the post. Used rocks to stabilize the post during the pour, then fine
tuned the plumb after the pour. Set the corners first.
Dave



Why "wetter than usual"?

--
Art

"Art" wrote in message
...
Dave wrote:


TX hill country. Fractured limestone is immediately below the soil.
Only a rock bar and alot of sweat, or, a diamond tipped auger can cut it.
18" is typical depth for corner and tensioning posts on typical pasture
fence. Wood or steel posts.

Guess answers for this are kinda like gardening, depends on the
conditions... Sandy soil, clay, swamp, gravel, or rocky in your case.

I pre-mixed, wetter than usual, the concrete prior to pouring in the hole
with the post. Used rocks to stabilize the post during the pour, then
fine tuned the plumb after the pour. Set the corners first.
Dave

Why "wetter than usual"?

--
Art

Because I used rocks inside the holes to stabilize the posts before the
pour. Wetter concrete assured me I had complete concrete saturation around
and under those rocks. No cavitation due to too dry a mix for that
situation. I used the inverted mushroom hole type. No gravel on bottom.

Stabilized bottom with suitably sized rocks, then top allowing at least 2"
above that topmost rock to concrete surface. Used level for plumb both
ways.

After the pour, I re-checked plumb and made minor adjustments if needed.

I did the tensioning posts similarly, except, I used a 3/4" offset
stringline for alignment with corners bottom and top. Stringline used for
rough, removed, then installed again after pour for final alignment. Of
course, the 90 degree opposite direction plumb was with a level.

A few neighbors in the area said to go with 5000 psi bagged concrete instead
of the 3000 psi version. They said they had no cracking problems with it
over time. Makes sense as sometimes 2 feet or more of the limestone rocks
will displace when using a rock pick or auger at the surface. Leaving
bigger area (hole) at surface to pour. Can't be helped. So, I used that
instead.
Dave