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Novice needs advice-Preparing soil for turf
So glad I found this forum. I will apologise straight away as I am a complete novice at gardening in general and could use some advice.
We've moved into a new house and the lawn is in a bad state so we have decide that it is the best to kill it off and re turf. Once I kill the lawn and weeds, I was told by a friend that I would need to hire a rotavator to churn up the earth, rake it and pull out clumps and weeds etc, and then put a top soil down. Is this about right? I just want to be sure I am being pointed in the right direction!! I've read on websites about soil improvers. Is that something I would use in addition to the top soil? Also, and idea how long to wait bewteen putting weed/lawn killer down and proceeding with turf laying? I read somewhere that it should be about 6 weeks? Many thanks for any responses |
#2
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Novice needs advice-Preparing soil for turf
On Jun 15, 6:34*pm, Noviceatlawns Noviceatlawns.
wrote: So glad I found this forum. I will apologise straight away as I am a complete novice at gardening in general and could use some advice. We've moved into a new house and the lawn is in a bad state so we have decide that it is the best to kill it off and re turf. Once I kill the lawn and weeds, I was told by a friend that I would need to hire a rotavator to churn up the earth, rake it and pull out clumps and weeds etc, and then put a top soil down. Is this about right? I just want to be sure I am being pointed in the right direction!! I've read on websites about soil improvers. Is that something I would use in addition to the top soil? Also, and idea how long to wait bewteen putting weed/lawn killer down and proceeding with turf laying? I read somewhere that it should be about 6 weeks? Many thanks for any responses -- Noviceatlawns First, early Fall is the best time for lawn renovation. You have declining temps, usually more rain, less competition from weeds. etc. The new lawn then has a couple months in the Fall and then several more in Spring to get established before Summer stress arrives. What you need to do to the soil depends on what you have there now. If it's 7 inches of good sandy loam, there is no need to till it. On the other hand, if the top soil is non-existent or only 2" deep, then it should be fixed before proceeding. If there is a county agriculutural agency in your area, often they do soil analysis for a small fee. You should also make sure the PH is tested and adjusted if needed. Assuming the topsoil is OK, then you can kill the whole thing off with Roundup (glyphosate) the last week of summer. After it dies, mow it short and remove all the debris. You can re-seed a week after applying and it usually takes that long or llonger for it to die off. Look on the internet for glyphosate instead of Roundup, as you need a lot. Razor is one of the less expensive brands. After raking up debris, rent a core aerator to aerate the soil. Then rent a slice seeder to apply the seeds. Make sure to choose a high quality seed that is appropriate for the climate and application. Keep it constantly moist for a couple weeks, then slowly start to water less frequently, but deeper. |
#3
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Novice needs advice-Preparing soil for turf
wrote in message ... On Jun 15, 6:34 pm, Noviceatlawns Noviceatlawns. wrote: So glad I found this forum. I will apologise straight away as I am a complete novice at gardening in general and could use some advice. We've moved into a new house and the lawn is in a bad state so we have decide that it is the best to kill it off and re turf. Once I kill the lawn and weeds, I was told by a friend that I would need to hire a rotavator to churn up the earth, rake it and pull out clumps and weeds etc, and then put a top soil down. Is this about right? I just want to be sure I am being pointed in the right direction!! I've read on websites about soil improvers. Is that something I would use in addition to the top soil? Also, and idea how long to wait bewteen putting weed/lawn killer down and proceeding with turf laying? I read somewhere that it should be about 6 weeks? Many thanks for any responses -- Noviceatlawns First, early Fall is the best time for lawn renovation. You have declining temps, usually more rain, less competition from weeds. etc. The new lawn then has a couple months in the Fall and then several more in Spring to get established before Summer stress arrives. What you need to do to the soil depends on what you have there now. If it's 7 inches of good sandy loam, there is no need to till it. On the other hand, if the top soil is non-existent or only 2" deep, then it should be fixed before proceeding. If there is a county agriculutural agency in your area, often they do soil analysis for a small fee. You should also make sure the PH is tested and adjusted if needed. Assuming the topsoil is OK, then you can kill the whole thing off with Roundup (glyphosate) the last week of summer. After it dies, mow it short and remove all the debris. You can re-seed a week after applying and it usually takes that long or llonger for it to die off. Look on the internet for glyphosate instead of Roundup, as you need a lot. Razor is one of the less expensive brands. After raking up debris, rent a core aerator to aerate the soil. Then rent a slice seeder to apply the seeds. Make sure to choose a high quality seed that is appropriate for the climate and application. Keep it constantly moist for a couple weeks, then slowly start to water less frequently, but deeper. Slow down ~ - before you get carried away by the above -- the answer to your question depends on where you live and what kind of turf grass you want to use. Some of the above answer may make sense in the U.S. midwest but not where you're located in the UK. There's no substitute for local knowledge, but also I don't think you need to obsess over the lawn in the way suggested here. You may want to use sod instead of seed, or the best type for your area may be a sterile hybrid that does not have seed, making sod mandatory. Most turf grass doesn't send down deep roots so it's overkill to do much more than level everything and make sure it drains well. Trying to change the basic pH of a location is an exercise in futility because of all the forces that will be trying to keep it at a certain point. Almost all of your lawn's food comes from above ground, not below -- you can grow perfectly good sod on a slab of concrete if you provide it with regular water and fertilizer. Lawns are a good example of the 90 / 10 rule. You can get a 90% lawn with 10% effort. Getting that last 10% takes an ever increasing amount of money and effort and isn't worth it. Better to spend the time going fishing. -- |
#4
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Novice needs advice-Preparing soil for turf
On Jun 18, 9:49*pm, "JimR" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Jun 15, 6:34 pm, Noviceatlawns Noviceatlawns. wrote: So glad I found this forum. I will apologise straight away as I am a complete novice at gardening in general and could use some advice. We've moved into a new house and the lawn is in a bad state so we have decide that it is the best to kill it off and re turf. Once I kill the lawn and weeds, I was told by a friend that I would need to hire a rotavator to churn up the earth, rake it and pull out clumps and weeds etc, and then put a top soil down. Is this about right? I just want to be sure I am being pointed in the right direction!! I've read on websites about soil improvers. Is that something I would use in addition to the top soil? Also, and idea how long to wait bewteen putting weed/lawn killer down and proceeding with turf laying? I read somewhere that it should be about 6 weeks? Many thanks for any responses -- Noviceatlawns First, early Fall is the best time for lawn renovation. * You have declining temps, usually more rain, less competition from weeds. etc. * The new lawn then has a couple months in the Fall and then several more in Spring to get established before Summer stress arrives. What you need to do to the soil depends on what you have there now. If it's 7 inches of good sandy loam, there is no need to till it. * On the other hand, if the top soil is non-existent or only 2" deep, then it should be fixed before proceeding. *If there is a county agriculutural agency in your area, often they do soil analysis for a small fee. *You should also make sure the PH is tested and adjusted if needed. Assuming the topsoil is OK, then you can kill the whole thing off with Roundup (glyphosate) the last week of summer. * After it dies, mow it short and remove all the debris. * You can re-seed a week after applying and it usually takes that long or llonger *for it to die off. * Look on the internet for glyphosate instead of Roundup, as you need a lot. * Razor is one of the less expensive brands. After raking up debris, rent a core aerator to aerate the soil. * Then rent a slice seeder to apply the seeds. * Make sure to choose a high quality seed that is appropriate for the climate and application. Keep it constantly moist for a couple weeks, then slowly start to water less frequently, but deeper. Slow down ~ - before you get carried away by the above -- the answer to your question depends on where you live and what kind of turf grass you want to use. *Some of the above answer may make sense in the U.S. midwest but not where you're located in the UK. *There's no substitute for local knowledge, but also I don't think you need to obsess over the lawn in the way suggested here. *You may want to use sod instead of seed, What makes sod less obsessive than killing off and renovating? If anything, it's MORE expensive and certainly more work. or the best type for your area may be a sterile hybrid that does not have seed, making sod mandatory. Most turf grass doesn't send down deep roots so it's overkill to do much more than level everything and make sure it drains well. I have to strongly disagree. The guy wants to establish a new lawn. Grass does much better, looks better, stays green with less water, is less subject to disease and fungus, etc if it has a thick layer of good topsoil. He can make sure he has that upfront and avoid years of frustration, more water, chemicals, work, etc. Or he can start spending money on seed, fertilizer, sod, labor, etc, only to have sub par results. It's a lot like painting. If you want it to be done right, it's all about the prep work. In the extreme case, suppose he has just gravel? Would you recommend just proceeding with seed or sod on that? *Trying to change the basic pH of a location is an exercise in futility because of all the forces that will be trying to keep it at a certain point. *Almost all of your lawn's food comes from above ground, not below -- you can grow perfectly good sod on a slab of concrete if you provide it with regular water and fertilizer. That's contrary to the advice of every turf grass expert who's advice I've seen. There is a range of PH that is best suited to turf. The desired range varies depending on the species. But if it's not in the range, it should be adjusted. And in most cases, if it's out, it's on the acidic side, with limestone being the easy and cheap fix. It's only futile in the sense that it will only last a couple years and then you need to add more. But that's true with fertilizer and most everything else too. Lawns are a good example of the 90 / 10 rule. *You can get a 90% lawn with 10% effort. *Getting that last 10% takes an ever increasing amount of money and effort and isn't worth it. *Better to spend the time going fishing. -- There's truth to that. But we can't see his existing lawn. If it's a real mess, then he's plan to renovate makes good sense and isn't inconsistent with the above. |
#5
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Novice needs advice-Preparing soil for turf
wrote in message ... On Jun 18, 9:49 pm, "JimR" wrote: wrote in message ... On Jun 15, 6:34 pm, Noviceatlawns Noviceatlawns. wrote: So glad I found this forum. I will apologise straight away as I am a complete novice at gardening in general and could use some advice. We've moved into a new house and the lawn is in a bad state so we have decide that it is the best to kill it off and re turf. Once I kill the lawn and weeds, I was told by a friend that I would need to hire a rotavator to churn up the earth, rake it and pull out clumps and weeds etc, and then put a top soil down. Is this about right? I just want to be sure I am being pointed in the right direction!! I've read on websites about soil improvers. Is that something I would use in addition to the top soil? Also, and idea how long to wait bewteen putting weed/lawn killer down and proceeding with turf laying? I read somewhere that it should be about 6 weeks? Many thanks for any responses -- Noviceatlawns First, early Fall is the best time for lawn renovation. [--] the answer to your question depends on where you live and what kind of turf grass you want to use. Some of the above answer may make sense in the U.S. midwest but not where you're located in the UK. There's no substitute for local knowledge, but also I don't think you need to obsess over the lawn in the way suggested here. You may want to use sod instead of seed, What makes sod less obsessive than killing off and renovating? If anything, it's MORE expensive and certainly more work. -- The OP implied he was going to lay sod, and in the long run I think it will provide a better lawn and takes less care at the beginning or the best type for your area may be a sterile hybrid that does not have seed, making sod mandatory. Most turf grass doesn't send down deep roots so it's overkill to do much more than level everything and make sure it drains well. [--] Trying to change the basic pH of a location is an exercise in futility because of all the forces that will be trying to keep it at a certain point. Almost all of your lawn's food comes from above ground, not below -- you can grow perfectly good sod on a slab of concrete if you provide it with regular water and fertilizer. That's contrary to the advice of every turf grass expert who's advice I've seen. There is a range of PH that is best suited to turf. The desired range varies depending on the species. But if it's not in the range, it should be adjusted. And in most cases, if it's out, it's on the acidic side, with limestone being the easy and cheap fix. [--] Here's a quote from the extension service -- "Modifying the soil's pH is not recommended. Alkaline soils will not stay acidic if chemically altered. In general, slightly acidic soils need not be modified" OTOH, if the pH was down below 4, limestone could be used to bring it to a lower acidic level, but the need would be there to repeatedly relime the property. Particiularly in the UK, which has had an acid rain problem, the effects of lime are quickly lost to the persistent rainfall. A key point is that the OP resides in the UK, and is moving into a house which had an existing lawn. Based on my experience there many/most homes will have lawns that are small enough that laying sod shouldn't be a big task - and the OP implied that he was planning on using sod --. Better to use a turfgrass variety that specifically thrives in the area in which the OP lives (ie, the UK). Mostly the UK has good turf, but there are some areas where it just won't grow -- So I would first find out why the existing lawn is in bad shape - is the OP near the ocean with salt spray? Was the house built on Welsh coal mine tailings? If it was just due to bad care, then I would: 1. Remove any rocks, construction debris, etc. 2. Mow the old lawn at a very low height 3. Spray with glyphosate 4. Wait 2 weeks and respray any areas that regrew, if necessary. If you're in a hurry and using sod you can even skip steps 3 and 4 without unduly jeopardizing your lawn, although I would do them in your situation. 5. Turn the soil to break it up and level the area so that it slopes away from the house and has no low areas that would collect water 6. Only consider soil amendments and lime if there were some unusual conditions - e.g., covered in gravel, used as a parking lot, or you needed to fill in a part of the lawn 7. If I had the money-- or if the best turfgrass is only available by vegetative reproduction (no seeds for sale) -- sod the area with a quality product. Any place there is a significant grade I would insist on sod instead of seed. 7a. If I couldn't afford sod, buy a quality, locally-appropriate seed for application, keeping in mind the initial care is going to be much more extensive than if sod is laid down. Given most locations in the UK, I wouldn't worry about waiting until the fall - the climate is not going to be severe enough to warrant the delay. -- and if you use sod and were in a hurry you could even skip steps 2 and 4 without creating much of a weed problem, as long as you turned the the soil well. In either case, once you turn the soil you're exposing a new seed bank of weeds to air, light and moisture. One point - mow first, then use the glyphosate - the chemical is much more effective when the grass blade is cut and trying to regrow. I think we both are in general agreement on the steps, but the way I read the question he doesn't have to worry about some of the steps you had in your solution. If the OP was buying a new house in a clay belt or rocky part of the U.S. midwest it would be a different story. In the UK the soil and weather are mostly favorable for good turfgrass unless you're near the ocean and have a salt and/or sand problem. |
#6
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Novice needs advice-Preparing soil for turf
On Jun 21, 9:55*pm, "JimR" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Jun 18, 9:49 pm, "JimR" wrote: wrote in message .... On Jun 15, 6:34 pm, Noviceatlawns Noviceatlawns. wrote: So glad I found this forum. I will apologise straight away as I am a complete novice at gardening in general and could use some advice. We've moved into a new house and the lawn is in a bad state so we have decide that it is the best to kill it off and re turf. Once I kill the lawn and weeds, I was told by a friend that I would need to hire a rotavator to churn up the earth, rake it and pull out clumps and weeds etc, and then put a top soil down. Is this about right? I just want to be sure I am being pointed in the right direction!! I've read on websites about soil improvers. Is that something I would use in addition to the top soil? Also, and idea how long to wait bewteen putting weed/lawn killer down and proceeding with turf laying? I read somewhere that it should be about 6 weeks? Many thanks for any responses -- Noviceatlawns First, early Fall is the best time for lawn renovation. [--] *the answer to your question depends on where you live and what kind of turf grass you want to use. Some of the above answer may make sense in the U.S. midwest but not where you're located in the UK. There's no substitute for local knowledge, but also I don't think you need to obsess over the lawn in the way suggested here. You may want to use sod instead of seed, What makes sod less obsessive than killing off and renovating? * If anything, it's MORE expensive and certainly more work. -- The OP implied he was going to lay sod, and in the long run I think it will provide a better lawn and takes less care at the beginning or the best type for your area may be a sterile hybrid that does not have seed, making sod mandatory. Most turf grass doesn't send down deep roots so it's overkill to do much more than level everything and make sure it drains well. [--] Trying to change the basic pH of a location is an exercise in futility because of all the forces that will be trying to keep it at a certain point. Almost all of your lawn's food comes from above ground, not below -- you can grow perfectly good sod on a slab of concrete if you provide it with regular water and fertilizer. That's contrary to the advice of every turf grass expert who's advice I've seen. * There is a range of PH that is best suited to turf. * The desired range varies depending on the species. * But if it's not in the range, it should be adjusted. * And in most cases, if it's out, it's on the acidic side, with limestone being the easy and cheap fix. * *[--] Here's a quote from the extension service -- "Modifying the soil's pH is not recommended. Alkaline soils will not stay acidic if chemically altered. In general, slightly acidic soils need not be modified" You didn't specify shat extension service that quote is from, nor the context. Here is what Penn State says about turfgrass and PH: http://turfgrassmanagement.psu.edu/liming.cfm "cool-swason turfgrassses usually grow best in soils ranging from 6.0 to 7.2. Kentucky bluegrass, the most widely used cool-season turfgrass in Pennsylvania, grows best when soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.2. Fine fescues, bentgrasses, turf-type perennial ryegrasses, and turf-type tall fescues are somewhat more tolerant of slightly acid soils (6.0 to 6.5) than Kentucky bluegrass. Why is liming important? Soil pH affects turfgrass health by influencing availability of plant nutrients and other elements, thatch decomposition, some turfgrass pests, and pesticide activity. Strongly acid soils (pH less than or equal to 5.5) may lead to deficiencies in calcium, magnesium, or phosphorus and increase availability of aluminum and manganese in amounts that may be toxic to turfgrasses. Liming improves plant nutrient availability and reduces toxicity problems in acid soils. In strongly alkaline soils (pH greater than or equal to 8.5), the formation of insoluble tricalcium phosphate makes the phosphorus unavailable to the plant. Iron chlorosis, an indication of iron deficiency, may be seen on some plants growing in soils high in pH. Since most soils in Pennsylvania are not strongly alkaline, these types of deficiencies are not often encountered. Exceptions may occur when too much lime is applied to established turf or to the soil prior to planting. Many beneficial soil microorganisms do not thrive in strongly acid soils. Some of these microorganisms break-down certain nitrogen fertilizers, thereby releasing the nitrogen for use by the turfgrass. Fertilizers containing nitrogen from ureaform, sulfur-coated urea, or natural organic sources are not effective unless certain microorganisms are present in sufficient quantities. Soil microorganisms also aid in the decomposition of thatch and grass clippings. Thatch is the dense accumulation of organic material on the soil surface beneath the grass. A thatch layer restricts movement of air, water, nutrients, and pesticides into the soil. Soil pH in the range of 6.0 to 7.0 increases microbial activity and helps reduce thatch. Some turfgrass diseases are influenced by soil pH. Although the reasons for this are not well understood, there is some evidence to suggest that in very acid soils the populations of microorganisms that suppress pathogenic fungi are reduced. In addition, plants growing in acid soils may be more susceptible to disease because they are suffering from nutrient deficiencies or aluminum toxicity. Conversely, there are at least two turfgrass diseases (take-all patch and Fusarium patch) that are suppressed in acid soils. Fortunately, these diseases rarely cause problems in home lawns. Optimum pH (6.0 to 7.0) does not prevent turfgrass disease, but it can reduce the severity of infestation." OTOH, if the pH was down below 4, limestone could be used to bring it to a lower acidic level, but the need would be there to repeatedly relime the property. *Particiularly in the UK, which has had an acid rain problem, the effects of lime are quickly lost to the persistent rainfall. As I said, so what? Fertilizer, water, herbicides, etc don't persist forever either. So, he has to add lime every 2-3 years. A key point is that the OP resides in the UK, and is moving into a house which had an existing lawn. *Based on my experience there many/most homes will have lawns that are small enough that laying sod shouldn't be a big task - and the OP implied that he was planning on using sod --. Better to use a turfgrass variety that specifically thrives in the area in which the OP lives (ie, the UK). *Mostly the UK has good turf, but there are some areas where it just won't grow -- So I would first find out why the existing lawn is in bad shape - is the OP near the ocean with salt spray? *Was the house built on Welsh coal mine tailings? *If it was just due to bad care, then I would: 1. Remove any rocks, construction debris, etc. 2. *Mow the old lawn at a very low height 3. *Spray with glyphosate 4. *Wait 2 weeks and respray any areas that regrew, if necessary. *If you're in a hurry and using sod you can even skip steps 3 and 4 without unduly jeopardizing your lawn, although I would do them in your situation. 5. *Turn the soil to break it up and level the area so that it slopes away from the house and has no low areas that would collect water 6. *Only consider soil amendments and lime if there were some unusual conditions *- e.g., covered in gravel, used as a parking lot, or you needed to fill in a part of the lawn 7. *If I had the money-- or if the best turfgrass is only available by vegetative reproduction (no seeds for sale) -- *sod the area with a quality product. *Any place there is a significant grade I would insist on sod instead of seed. 7a. *If I couldn't afford sod, buy a quality, locally-appropriate seed for application, keeping in mind the initial care is going to be much more extensive than if sod is laid down. Given most locations in the UK, I wouldn't worry about waiting until the fall - the climate is not going to be severe enough to warrant the delay. -- * and if you use sod and were in a hurry you could even skip steps 2 and 4 without creating much of a weed problem, as long as you turned the the soil well. *In either case, once you turn the soil you're exposing a new seed bank of weeds to air, light and moisture. I agree that if he wants to do it in summer, then sod is the way to go. If he wants to seed, then doing it now instead of waiting a couple months, is, IMO, a big mistake. One point - mow first, then use the glyphosate - the chemical is much more effective when the grass blade is cut and trying to regrow. I think we both are in general agreement on the steps, but the way I read the question he doesn't have to worry about some of the steps you had in your solution. *If the OP was buying a new house in a clay belt or rocky part of the U.S. midwest it would be a different story. *In the UK the soil and weather are mostly favorable for good turfgrass unless you're near the ocean and have a salt and/or sand problem. I'm not sure exactly what steps you disagree with. I suggested that he find out what kind of topsoil layer he has, not assume that it is fine because it wasn't a parking lot. It's a new house, who knows what is or isn't there. And if it isn't good, then to figure out how to get decent topsoil BEFORE seeding or laying sod, because having good topsoil now can save years of trying to fix problems later, with the lawn requiring more maintenance and never looking as good. You suggested he till the soil. That is a lot MORE work than the process I laid out of establishing a new lawn from seed by using a core aerator and slice seeder. Dealing with a lawn full of clumps of dead grass, trying to level it out, rake it, is a lot of work. And I suggested to test and adjust the PH, if needed. Adjusting the PH is trivial. It's nothing more than spreading some limestone. I'm sure any sod supplier will recommend that step as well. Tending to a newly seeded lawn may be zero additional work compared to lawn from sod. If it's relatively flat, the only difference is for the first couple months the seeded lawn needs to be watered more frequently. If he has a sprinkler system, the extra work could be zippo. I would agree that if he has some slopes, then erossion is a consideration and sod has an advantage there. And I'd say you have no way of knowing what the soil is like anywhere, regardless of the geography. When houses are built, grading is frequently done which strips away what is there from most of the tract and then sometimes good topsoil which was removed is reapplied, or sometimes you get little or none. Also, areas can be disturbed from trenches for utilities, sewers, etc at various times and again backfilled with crap. There have been plenty of folks here lamenting about new homes with crap lawns that have little or no decent topsoil. The only way to know is to actually take some samples and look. |
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