I have a nice Craftsman lawn tractor purchased at Sears. My 3 blades are now
getting sharpened. I decided I ought to buy a new set so I can rotate them
while having one set being sharpened.

I think Sears quoted me something like $18/blade. A local guy has a shop for
maintenance work on lawn tractors and he said he can get the identical
blades for $11 each.

Wal-Mart has blades even cheaper. I asked the local guy if there is much
difference in quality- he said that the cheaper blades will have lower
quality steel and won't last as long or retain their sharpness.

Comments? I do believe in getting good tools and maintaining them, but I
sometimes get ripped off on prices. If the local guy is right- sure, I want
the better blades, but he is really right?

--
Joe Zorzin

If the blade he is selling are OEM blades then the quality will be equal, if
he is selling a jobber blade then I would say no. All the jobber blade I
seen are lower in price for a reason.

most of the tractor blades Sears offer are one quality style that came with
it when new and a premium blade, usualy the premium blade is a few $ more
and suppose to last longer, however the abuse the blades take that I see in
my neck of the woods make the life of either blade basically the same.

I know ther are different qualities of steel and it does mkae a differnce as
far as quality. Can you get the specification of each blade and find out
what steel each is made of?
"Joe Zorzin" xxxx@zzzz wrote in message
...
I have a nice Craftsman lawn tractor purchased at Sears. My 3 blades are
now
getting sharpened. I decided I ought to buy a new set so I can rotate them
while having one set being sharpened.

I think Sears quoted me something like $18/blade. A local guy has a shop
for
maintenance work on lawn tractors and he said he can get the identical
blades for $11 each.

Wal-Mart has blades even cheaper. I asked the local guy if there is much
difference in quality- he said that the cheaper blades will have lower
quality steel and won't last as long or retain their sharpness.

Comments? I do believe in getting good tools and maintaining them, but I
sometimes get ripped off on prices. If the local guy is right- sure, I
want
the better blades, but he is really right?

--
Joe Zorzin

Yuh, that would be useful info- the only way we'd know for sure, but the
blade makers probably don't care to give us that info. Although I agree that
the OEM probably are better- with other products, sometimes the non OEM are
just as good, and the OEMs just want us to think there is a difference so
they can make their excessive profits.

I like the comment by Dr. Doctor that because most blades get so abused-
that reduces the quality difference.

In my case, my 2.5 acre lawn has lots of rocks in it. It was once part of a
cow field and never really cleaned up for a lawn. The bigger rocks, I don't
get near- every so often I use my weed whacker to clean them up. The problem
is the ones that only stick up an inch or two- most times the mower won't
hit them unless it comes at them from a certain angle- then it scrapes
them. I should rip those rocks out, but we all know once you start- you find
that some are as big as a truck.

When I took my blades off for the first time after 50 hours- I see that
there is a butterfly shape cut into the blade which is meant to fit over a
similar shape on the drive component of the mower to hold it in place. On
the drive bolt component, one of those butterfly shapes looks good, another
is worn significantly, and the third is almost gone. I assumed this wear was
from hitting rocks. My local repair guy said it was probably from the blades
being lose. Actually, that may be the case as the blades came off extremely
easy. I thought it would be a struggle and had a breaker bar ready.

On some other small mower and on my large heavy duty brush/weed cutter- the
blade's threading is the opposite of most nuts and bolts in order to make
sure the blade as tight as possible and of course, they can be tough to get
off. On this Sears tractor mower, that's not the case. Then again, I get
confused with such simple matters- I have zero mechanical skills- maybe on
the tractor mower the cutting edges are opposite from my small mower and
brush cutter.

Replacing those worn bolts that drive the blades because of the worn
butterfly is going to be very expensive- each bolt costs about $35 direct
from Sears and the local repair guy says his labor rate is $30/hr- although
the repair guy said he can get the bolts cheaper than Sears' price. At this
time I can't afford to do this. So, I'm going to just put the blades back on
and tighten the nuts up to the max. 55 pounds torque and hope for the best.
Although the butterfly pattern was worn, none of the blades had turned from
their original positions- they were all still lined up perfectly- so perhaps
they'll hold, especially if I make a point of retightening them frequently
with a good torque wrench. Then when I can afford to replace those drive
bolts, I'll do so- and maybe do it myself with the help of a friend who
seems to be able to fix anything.



"Chris" wrote in message
...
I know ther are different qualities of steel and it does mkae a differnce
as
far as quality. Can you get the specification of each blade and find out
what steel each is made of?
"Joe Zorzin" xxxx@zzzz wrote in message
...
I have a nice Craftsman lawn tractor purchased at Sears. My 3 blades are
now
getting sharpened. I decided I ought to buy a new set so I can rotate
them
while having one set being sharpened.

I think Sears quoted me something like $18/blade. A local guy has a shop
for
maintenance work on lawn tractors and he said he can get the identical
blades for $11 each.

Wal-Mart has blades even cheaper. I asked the local guy if there is much
difference in quality- he said that the cheaper blades will have lower
quality steel and won't last as long or retain their sharpness.

Comments? I do believe in getting good tools and maintaining them, but I
sometimes get ripped off on prices. If the local guy is right- sure, I
want
the better blades, but he is really right?

--
Joe Zorzin

Something to remember is most companies don't make a lot of their own parts.
I would bet someone makes them for them. I work at a company that designs
equipment. We always try to use off the shelf parts it is easier that way.
The blades you have might be the generic blades from company "xyz" but are
now the oem blade for company "abc".

"Joe Zorzin" xxxx@zzzz wrote in message
...
Yuh, that would be useful info- the only way we'd know for sure, but the
blade makers probably don't care to give us that info. Although I agree
that
the OEM probably are better- with other products, sometimes the non OEM
are
just as good, and the OEMs just want us to think there is a difference so
they can make their excessive profits.

I like the comment by Dr. Doctor that because most blades get so abused-
that reduces the quality difference.

In my case, my 2.5 acre lawn has lots of rocks in it. It was once part of
a
cow field and never really cleaned up for a lawn. The bigger rocks, I
don't
get near- every so often I use my weed whacker to clean them up. The
problem
is the ones that only stick up an inch or two- most times the mower won't
hit them unless it comes at them from a certain angle- then it scrapes
them. I should rip those rocks out, but we all know once you start- you
find
that some are as big as a truck.

When I took my blades off for the first time after 50 hours- I see that
there is a butterfly shape cut into the blade which is meant to fit over a
similar shape on the drive component of the mower to hold it in place. On
the drive bolt component, one of those butterfly shapes looks good,
another
is worn significantly, and the third is almost gone. I assumed this wear
was
from hitting rocks. My local repair guy said it was probably from the
blades
being lose. Actually, that may be the case as the blades came off
extremely
easy. I thought it would be a struggle and had a breaker bar ready.

On some other small mower and on my large heavy duty brush/weed cutter-
the
blade's threading is the opposite of most nuts and bolts in order to make
sure the blade as tight as possible and of course, they can be tough to
get
off. On this Sears tractor mower, that's not the case. Then again, I get
confused with such simple matters- I have zero mechanical skills- maybe on
the tractor mower the cutting edges are opposite from my small mower and
brush cutter.

Replacing those worn bolts that drive the blades because of the worn
butterfly is going to be very expensive- each bolt costs about $35 direct
from Sears and the local repair guy says his labor rate is $30/hr-
although
the repair guy said he can get the bolts cheaper than Sears' price. At
this
time I can't afford to do this. So, I'm going to just put the blades back
on
and tighten the nuts up to the max. 55 pounds torque and hope for the
best.
Although the butterfly pattern was worn, none of the blades had turned
from
their original positions- they were all still lined up perfectly- so
perhaps
they'll hold, especially if I make a point of retightening them frequently
with a good torque wrench. Then when I can afford to replace those drive
bolts, I'll do so- and maybe do it myself with the help of a friend who
seems to be able to fix anything.



"Chris" wrote in message
...
I know ther are different qualities of steel and it does mkae a
differnce
as
far as quality. Can you get the specification of each blade and find out
what steel each is made of?
"Joe Zorzin" xxxx@zzzz wrote in message
...
I have a nice Craftsman lawn tractor purchased at Sears. My 3 blades
are
now
getting sharpened. I decided I ought to buy a new set so I can rotate
them
while having one set being sharpened.

I think Sears quoted me something like $18/blade. A local guy has a
shop
for
maintenance work on lawn tractors and he said he can get the identical
blades for $11 each.

Wal-Mart has blades even cheaper. I asked the local guy if there is
much
difference in quality- he said that the cheaper blades will have lower
quality steel and won't last as long or retain their sharpness.

Comments? I do believe in getting good tools and maintaining them, but
I
sometimes get ripped off on prices. If the local guy is right- sure, I
want
the better blades, but he is really right?

--
Joe Zorzin

I bought the higher priced replacement blades for my Craftsman 22" last
year. When I checked them this year at the beginning of the "season", I was
surprised to find them almost like new. In previous years, a blade showed a
lot of ware after one year. I have lots of trees - so I invariably hit some
pine cones every time I mow.

Also, last year my MTD need to be fixed - so I used the Craftsman the whole
year.

Greg

"Joe Zorzin" xxxx@zzzz wrote in message
...
I have a nice Craftsman lawn tractor purchased at Sears. My 3 blades are
now
getting sharpened. I decided I ought to buy a new set so I can rotate them
while having one set being sharpened.

I think Sears quoted me something like $18/blade. A local guy has a shop
for
maintenance work on lawn tractors and he said he can get the identical
blades for $11 each.

Wal-Mart has blades even cheaper. I asked the local guy if there is much
difference in quality- he said that the cheaper blades will have lower
quality steel and won't last as long or retain their sharpness.

Comments? I do believe in getting good tools and maintaining them, but I
sometimes get ripped off on prices. If the local guy is right- sure, I
want
the better blades, but he is really right?

--
Joe Zorzin

"Greg Rice" wrote in message
rthlink.net...
I bought the higher priced replacement blades for my Craftsman 22" last
year. When I checked them this year at the beginning of the "season", I
was
surprised to find them almost like new. In previous years, a blade showed
a
lot of ware after one year. I have lots of trees - so I invariably hit
some
pine cones every time I mow.

Also, last year my MTD need to be fixed - so I used the Craftsman the
whole
year.

Greg

"Joe Zorzin" xxxx@zzzz wrote in message
...
I have a nice Craftsman lawn tractor purchased at Sears. My 3 blades are
now
getting sharpened. I decided I ought to buy a new set so I can rotate
them
while having one set being sharpened.

I think Sears quoted me something like $18/blade. A local guy has a shop
for
maintenance work on lawn tractors and he said he can get the identical
blades for $11 each.

Wal-Mart has blades even cheaper. I asked the local guy if there is much
difference in quality- he said that the cheaper blades will have lower
quality steel and won't last as long or retain their sharpness.

Comments? I do believe in getting good tools and maintaining them, but I
sometimes get ripped off on prices. If the local guy is right- sure, I
want
the better blades, but he is really right?

--
Joe Zorzin

would seem to b the case.... you get what u pay for....
better hardened/tempered steel compared to just flat stock.
also, gator blades for mulching are quite good. not badon price
and do work very well.. hth

http://www.gatorblade.com/about.html

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gator.cfm